Gordon Forbes
Forum Replies Created
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Got the vinyl they had put the wrong address on it missed a zero and even though the postcode was right, still too complicated for the delivery man.
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I feel is shouldn’t be to be honest.
Been waiting for the vinyl over 1500 wide for 3 days may spray paint though i dont really want to
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I got sample from the 800 sent to me supposed to be scratch resistant sadly they were not very so didn’t bother at the price. That was a while ago though, may be better now. I would definitely get samples sent first. I am going to try adhesive outdoor paper first as I am too looking for a coloured label printer.
I have an older zebra thermal printer and have put strips of vinyl through it with resin mix ink, speed pretty impressive and durability excellent. as good as it gets. I don’t know how long it would last the thickness of the vinyl is more than is supposed to go through them. -
Used to get a girl down the road to do the writing for me. She only took 3 packets o fags.
U think am doin it for 3 packets o fags? -
Outlook has it all there for reminders appointments meetings etc etc. You can enter any details for an appointment you want reminders too.
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PM me an offer you might be surprised.
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Wot does he need? As David says like a wilderness up here and not just for sign stuff neither.
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I have quite a few and a PC600 with a new head as well don’t use it any more.
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Thought you should only use 2 gig of ram with XP as it can’t see more than that unless you are including the page file. Leads to confusion apparently.
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£50 a day. Pay peanuts get monkies. Some cheek there and would have told em so as well.
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Label Press any details? interested
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I find them a pain always break the tip. Started using dry board markers now
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TIP cut the sheet before you do the print easier to line up after. Make sure you leave about 100mm after the print before cutting to remove for laminating.
The one thing I don’t like about Versaworks is that it doesn’t give you the option to confirm when it has looked for the crop marks is it just goes and cuts after looking Flexi has this option unless I am missing some setting. -
Thanks for the advice.
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Rapid Tac 2 is for glass. I use rapid tac all the time for registration jobs.
For outside this time of year it will take a while to evaporate off. Just squeegee well and be patient. Some bits may be milky but will clear after a few days. This is sandblast type window film I’m talking about. Clear app tape is a pain with fluid even rapid tack it doesn’t breathe the same as paper and takes ages to settle on glass. Paper app tape is easy to see through once it’s wet. I only use the clear nowadays for small registration jobs I do dry. -
Hi Carl welcome U need a spell checker asap!
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I assume you haven’t got the email and sadly to say that Ken unexpectedly/suddenly passed away on the 16th Feb
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I also find with a problem gradient take it into photo-shop and give it a gausian blur a few times helps a great deal. I also save these as a tiff with no compression dunno if that helps or not but works for me.
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Rob is that 1m x 1m
I charge by the linear meter, as I only have the 760 machine I take the £50 x .700 or the size of the print plus a charge for waste. -
Rolands web site explains it all in the help files.
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Same as you Lorraine being arrogant if you ask me.
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Rapid Tac 2 is for glass colder application temperatures. I don’t personally bother with any home made stuff. I just use the afore mentioned works as it should does as it says. I can’t understand people not buying proper application fluid purely as a cost saving basis. Used some yesterday on a trailer with clear plastic app tape. It was really cold up here, left it for an hour as I did the rest of the job and it worked a treat.
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Don’t know if the Soljet is supported in Versaworks but if it is you get a free app to use directly from Signlab. Send your print to and cut line directly to it and Go into Versaworks and see if it works that way.
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Staples were doing a great deal on a Brother laser printer I bought one a few months ago
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Contour cut needs to be done in in Signlab and the simplest way is to print the file from Signlab to Versaworks. This is in the file print tab. If you don’t have that option you can get it for free to from Cadlink for signlab. I can’t remember if you download or have to ask go to their web site and look for info there
Start versaworks click on the file imported check the settings profile you use for the print (ICC profile you can download specific one for your media from media manufacturer normally), get media width etc etc on the print tab I think it is select print only and in registration marks set set to printer for alignment I think it actually says that. Ensure all else is selected to Use Printer Settings for ease of use (feed speed cutting force etc.
The printer will print four black circles at each corner of the print and a line at the first one.
Once the print is finished take out (make sure you have enough media after the print to complete the cutting passes after lamination) leave to dry and laminate
With Versaworks running
Put the print into the printer, make sure it is straight and line up the head of the cutter close to the center of the first black circle.
Go to the print menu in the same file printed it will be on the right and in the center when selected, double click it and go to print options in the pop up window and select cut only. (I forgot to mention a cut line in versaworks will appear as a red dotted line and moving about.)
Go back to the main menu and select print. Weird but you have just told it to cut and not print.
THINGS TO CHECK
CUTTING FORCE Do a test cut on the laminated print set to printer settings in versaworks
I personally turn the heaters OFF when cutting laminated prints.
MARK DETECTION Keep an eye on it as Versaworks does not stop and ask you if mark detection was OK before continuing to cut the outline (one of its biggest failings for me anyway) if they are wrong it trotts off and cuts be they right or wrong.
On the website this info is available for sownload from the forum I think you need to register first.Bit long winded but really simple when you know how.
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If I remember correctly I have seen Danger stuff an it was 3M backing so I guess it is made up to their spec which you can do for a couple of rolls etc etc. A friend of mine’s son used to spanner for the Honda race team graphics trashed every race he said they were forever putting them on.
Tried Convex and it didn’t last/didn’t stick and the price is ridiculous over here. None of them last not even the factory kits don’t.
Still waiting for someone to prove me wrong. -
As said SL 8 colour profiles were not good for me I print to Versa works from signlab and the colours are good deep and vibrant. Thinking of upgrading to 9 and was told that the colour profiles have all been re done in SL 9 plus it supports transparencies now which I would think would be a really good thing.
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Thanks for your help will be 751 or Oracal print.
Thought about the panel option too will speak to her about it.
I got some hi tack print vinyl from a supplier for labels and it has turned out to be horrible stuff always deforms under heat no matter what I do and it touches the heads when printing its going in the bin -
Same here as said Mark 1 Eyeball and on level ground is the easiest way.
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Thought Ken Tech was down your way.
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thanks for that. I can’t remember where I got the stuff I have but what you say sounds promising
Thanks for your help. -
Versacam 300V running Ecosol max inks
Am I right in saying that I can put in the Bio inks without changing pipes etc like you had to for the cadet. -
Usually from illustrator I think it cuts the fill and then the stroke. As above don’t know why.
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At that width you will be lucky if it tracks true for any great distance. Slowing down the cutting and feed speed would be advisable.
And your vinyl will need to have good thick backing paper which some don’t have nowadays. I usually go for around 570 causes a lot less grief. -
A thing I have noticed recently in versaworks and I don’t know why its happening is that on a single file in the preview section there is a blue border on the file/picture and you cannot see the "dancing ants" but it is there. But you can see it on any copies on the same page.
If you make it small and copy across the page you will see the cut line if it is there or not under the cut only option. -
Thanks for the advice Rob
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Funny thing is I beat him on prices for plain coloured lettering!! (black)
I more or less only use 751 but am thinking of trying 651. -
Just an update the guy wanting the quote called me back saying that the other quote was much cheaper. I asked him what it was £114.00 Well I told him he better get him to do it then as I wouldn’t even begin to compete with that
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thanks for your input guys.
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I think you can add the versaworks pallete to corel cant u ?
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I like FF but I reckon its getting too bloated doing stuff behind the scenes.
There are a few tweaks that are simple to do to speed it up just google and it shows you what to do, definitely speeds it up. -
Done it to a fiesta nightmare to get the proper curve as it goes both ways ended up doing one line in the middle and measuring and fitting one line at a time. NOT profitable unless you have the proper template. well for me anyway.
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Especially when the CRACK folder is there and you have to use it before you reboot.
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Had problems like that and I noticed a great difference after I went into the service menu and set the printer head alignment up there was a bit lax in the settings by the original engineer install
I’m sure i did it in the service mode and not your usual alignment options. -
XP Home is around £60 all u need really
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Thanks Chris got some of their label material and its just what I was looking for. Much stickier than normal digital vinyl.
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Thanks for that "found" a roll of matt white in me workshop and am using that at the moment.
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I use it a I find the colour profiles in Signlab poor compared to Versaworks.
I havent had any issues yet printing to versaworks at all. Thats all it does is export as level 3 eps as far as I can see. -
Old ones you will struggle to get any to stick permanently new ones the same you need a vinyl for low energy plastic
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XN View
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do you unplug it from the mains and wait a while before restarting it? Dunno if this will help but an option none the less.
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Put a marque round cut or copy it and feather (right click option in version seven don’t know about later ones) the edges is the way i do it and paste to a white background of course.
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Me being a bit skeptical I eventually got a Devolo dlan 200 to go through the mains as you have power already I can recommend it works really well for me as wireless was useless for me too. Sets up a network for transferring files which can be encrypted with a button on the plugs. The software does most of it for you really simple
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I wouldve done the same Lorraine ok a curve one way but a dome forget it unless you or anyone knows of software that can make a 2D template from a 3D object. I know some cad software can price being the issue. I would have to remortgage me house.
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An none of em will last even factory ones dont. Dont do them on used plastics neither speaking from experience on convex which is mega expensive anyway.
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Am I right in saying that you would need the I One Extreme kit to complete the above and that it would contain everything I need.
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Thanks dave done one already with the plural.
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Not really R & B Joinery Limited
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whatever you do don’t let the oracal backing paper get wet then try peeling it
A lot of it stays with the glue on the vinyl. Well did with me anyway. -
If you have Signlab 8 Vers 1 print and cut you can get a free upgrade to signlab that gives you the option to print directly to versaworks from signlab.
I currently have issies with signlab printing basically its poor Am getting it looked at now. For £1500 I wouldn’t bother just use colour rip You are getting on to the cost of a rip there and in VPM you can send it to another rip as far as I remember. I was fortunate my SP300 went to a 300V allegedly and got versaworks It is only the very early ones that wont go up without a mobo change as far as I understand. As I said Versaworks with proper profile 3551 and to sign and display output really spanks signlab strong vibrant colours. Reds and blues. -
Are you sure its just not a clipped background you see try ungrouping and deleting the back bit then tell signlab to contour cut the image and it should put a contour on to the image. Make sure you tick the inside/outside box on the toolbar before doing the contour cut a slider will appear with a scale going from black to white just say OK without moving it and it should contour cut your bitmap inside the transparent part.
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I did the first apply to the bonnet wet and as usual had problems finishing the edges and folding it over/under if you know what I mean or do you have a way to do this that doesn’t take forever and gives good results
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I knew it was going to be a pain especially as I was going right to the bottom.
I actually did the bonnet twice as I knew it would go off line on the front curve. It came in by 4 mm in the last 4" and you could notice it so re did it with a 4mm spread on the bottom 4" and although not perfect was pretty close. I applied these dry with app tape and found it easier to cut in half along its length before applying.
Is this the way the more experienced people would do it?
Forgot to mention that the customer was absolutely delighted with it when he saw it which pleased me as between him and his son have given me a considerable amount of work and now don’t ask for prices just tell me to do the work knowing that I am not the type to take advantage. -
I was looking at versaworks last night and you can print chip cards these have cmyk values on them when printed. You can also import the pallete into Illustrator and Corel Draw says so in the help file.
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Get signlab as Rob says you wont regret it makes life so much easier.
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Is it clipped/masked find this sometimes causes problems with me printing to PDF if you can bring it to the front and try that
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On the ones I have you just press a button on the modules and it gives you automatic security
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Think it needs to be 300V for versaworks.
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They want to go straight on their own just don’t land front wheel first
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Reading your post why have you "Too many cutting program’s? I wonder.
Anyway if you read the help files in these it will explain everything that is if they have the help files with them. -
Look at the lettering in your program with no fill and see where the lines come from. Do they overlap and if so did you do a "weld" to create a new outline. if you explain things a bit better people will help more I would say.
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Got mine today Ewe must be makin a fooorrttuuuunne
Look forward to reading it Phill
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Thanks very much for that, tho not my choice for a large bill board
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Thanks a lot Jamie they were supposed to send a pdf an got a jpeg instead.
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Its not so much the vinyl as the type of glue the vinyl needs.
It needs to be suitable for LOW ENERGY PLASTIC and as far as I know you will struggle to get it in a range of colours You can get the material for printing on and is usually for label stock for pallets and the like and even then I don’t think it is guaranteed for long. -
NEGATIVE Space Google it and get to understand it. What it is and the reasons for it. The sign on the wall with the line going almost full with is what I’m talking about should be around 70 to 80% of the width. Don’t scrunch or compress to make it fit either. Choose a font that fits or put it on two lines.
You will get to understand now you know about it.Goop
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Any that are recommended for Low Energy Plastic nearly all the suppliers do one of some sort
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Your a brave man Steve
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Has the same trouble with a van recently something in the power wash they used again petrol panel wipe didnt really clean it off
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I’d just like to say a big thanks to all who contributed
Goop
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I like that style as well John amazing what a fresh pair of eyes does
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Better one maybe
Attachments:
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Uploaded the AI vers 9 had to make it really small for the file size
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Yes Jill same kinda thing sell everything horse feed, spades hand tools, clothing etc etc I like your design and idea amazin what a fresh set of eyes and mind does
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The Oracal one sticks pretty well
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I wouldn’t say so the company I mentioned seem to recommend lasers didnt read anything about it. As for proofs you mean on a laser or inkjet printer?
Search some of the photo printing type sites for good colour reproduction. Some I read swore by the Epson 1290 1290S which has been superseded
Anyway Google will find an answer for you.
If these are proofs for yourself it may not be a problem but for commercial colour reproduction its expensive and a minefield. -
Do a google for FOLEX (imaging) they do adhesive vinyls, labels and papers for laser printers
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Never used versaworks but I remember reading somewhere that the cut line (in colour rip) has to be animated (dancing they called it) and this means it is recognised.
Just cut your sheet before any printing to aid in correct line up with the front edge. Make sure the printers OWN registration marks are selected for crop marks. Do the Print only with crop marks and feed through about 100 120mm of vinyl before you cut your sheet when finished printing. Leave for 24 hrs laminate line up the front edge and tell it to cut only in the same file the plotter will look for the crop marks first then cut the outline. A good idea is to print something small and run through it / practice it yourself a few times before you commit to the full print can be costly otherwise been there done that.
You can also (to help the plotter find the registration marks) line the cutter over the top of the black circle it prints and press the base point button when you re insert the media for cutting. -
Precisely buy a laptop for £300 and you get exactly that. I don’t mean to offend people but your buying a Lada and expecting a Rolls Royce.
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Got to agree with everyone else excellent work.
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DTG is supposed to be a nightmare with printers clogging up if not used all the time as far as I can make out and many don’t deliver what they promise. Have a look at the DTG printing forums and you will see what I mean a lot of unhappy peeps by the look of it
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Whats the problems with the PC 60 and flashing lights? I have a PC 6000 and may be able to help on that
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Uninstalled version 3 and went back to version 2 a million times better don’t know what they’ve done to it but 2 is certainly a lot faster than 3
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Just downloaded an update and seems a lot better
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I haven’t tried it yet but was going to uninstal 3 and install 2 as I have it on my pc don’t know if it will work tho.
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The latest version seems to be CPU hungry ever since I installed he latest one I hear my disk churning away especially when you first boot firefox up.
Thinking of going back a version. -
Yeah just run Uniform Gloss Fine1 720 x 720 at the moment Fine 2 lays down a lot of ink.
Thanks Rob. -
Not stealing your post I just upgraded Signlab Cut and Print asked if it supported the Cadet as it does but after installation could only find Uniform ICC profiles for it cant use Oracal ones and by what I read on their forums can’t import ones for it neither (haven’t asked anyone directly yet) but what use is that when they say it’s an all singing dancing rip. I must say tho it is far advanced compared to the version 7 that I had before.
As regards vista I just had a computer die for some reason mobo i think I bought all the components my self and bought XP Home to go on it SP3 and everything works OK its only when you do the upgrade it changes a lot of settings and stops applications working correctly. -
Avery Heavy duty labels do a silver for laser works very well not the cheapest but good tho if i remember they delaminate if exposed to sea water for a while.
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I have a PC 600 with new heads and done very little work since ( done by Kentech) a decent amount of cartridges.
If you are interested please get in touch,
I am not going to be available for at least a week as I am going to be out of the country for a week or to.best regards
Gordon
