[Simon Worrall]

Thanks Martin.

3M IJ180.

[Simon Worrall]

I printed each panel separately. I did the bottom panel first, with a run of knifeless tape on the upper (opposite) panel, 2mm from the join.

Pulled the string, then a very slight blast of warm air to take away the stress, and tucked it in with a sharp teflon squeegee

Repeat with the top panel.

No visible white…yet.

There was almost no stretching at that point, so it wont pull back.

[Simon Worrall]

No the join is the horizontal one in this pic. The plastic bumper is right up against the steel rear panel, there is no rubber or anything between them.

[Simon Worrall]

Here in NZ we have a service called “before-u-dig” online.

You put in the location in the map where you want to dig, and the website alerts all the relevant services – electric, water, gas, drains, council, etc, who then email you maps and charts of the location and you can figure it out and avoid the tricky stuff.

I cannot imagine the cost of digging into a power cable. I wouldnt go there without thorough knowledge of what is down there.

[Simon Worrall]

Have you tried printing it laterally on the printer?

Printers are usually very accurate laterally, but lengthwise not so much.

You might have to do it in two pcs depending on which printer you have.

Update…David already said that. Apologies for repeating 🤣

[Simon Worrall]

Guys I don’t think she means the snitty type of knives, she means the knife with an adjustable blade that can cut to a precise depth and no further.

I have one in the shop, I will take a look on Monday and let you know what it’s called.

Update…

found it online.
It’s an Olfa Top Sheet cutter
Here’s a link to the NZ supplier.
Must be someone in the UK selling these.

[Simon Worrall]

Aaargh! The glass guy has only gone and broken one of the panels!

The price just went up. 😳

• This reply was modified 1 year, 11 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

[Simon Worrall]

Yup.

As Rob said, if I had used air release it would have chewed it all up! Good thing I didnt as it turned out.

This 3M frost comes mounted on a plastic backing paper which can take almost anything without losing pieces of vinyl, there is a very strong grip to the point where you have to use the high tack application tape just to get it off. (3m makes app tape in at least 3 different tacks.)

They actually make a whole range of colours with the same backing, which is what I use when doing very detailed stuff. It is 10+ year vinyl, possibly the best vinyl you can get, and it is not cheap, but well worth it for some jobs.

The clear plastic backing is very hard for the plotter to cut through, so you can err on the heavy side when cutting and it will take it.

[Simon Worrall]

After staring at this, dreaming about it, (and wishing I had used air release frost before I started weeding), I finally took the plunge and rolled them on. I actually didnt think the roller would be able to cope with the peaks and troughs (I have a fairly rigid silicone roller I had turned around a solid steel core) but it worked perfectly, and not a single air bubble appeared in the whole pattern.

[Simon Worrall]

Yup. Good plan.

[Simon Worrall]

Rob.

The panels were supplied by the glass guy, with measurements given by the joiner. I didnt get involved in that. I hope its correct, I dont want to go through that again! (guessing carpal tunnel syndrome is a few years closer, not to mention loss of eyesight)

I am not sure how the vinyl will contact the glass everywhere if I use the squeegee you suggest? Even with a sleeve its going to float over the troughs causing trapped air.

[Simon Worrall]

I put masking tape over the magnet to prevent staining.

One other thing that has hit me hard in the goolies in the past…make sure there are no snap off blades stuck to the magnets before using them!

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks everyone.
Since I am doing the job alone, I decided to wrap in vertical drops – so much easier – from the rear up to the curve. At that point I taped the drop up the side and carried on round the curve sideways, as Rob says you cant get the paper out if you wrap top to bottom.

I used Oracal 9 series wrap, which I have never used before and I must say is HORRIBLE.

It doesnt shrink in the nice predictable way of 3M or Avery supreme, and the air release is really not very effective, and bubbles are really hard to get out. I only used it because the others are out of stock. I will not be using it again.

Anyway, so far so good, its about half done in terms of time. The compound curve roof at the front is going to be a challenge using the Oracal.

[Simon Worrall]

I will give them a “current turnaround time for a job of this size” sort of thing on first contact. By the time the job is confirmed and artwork approved, this is often very different.

Most customers understand this.

Last minute changes cost money, and time. Normally they get this also.

Perhaps people are more chill in new zealand, as this is not usually an issue.

[Simon Worrall]

I bought the last four rolls of 3M 180 wrap vinyl in New Zealand yesterday. They are saying it could be months..it seems 3M are having supply issues of their own and cant make the stuff. The next lot are going to be +30% or so.

Hoarding? Yup. Sorry.

[Simon Worrall]

Air release is my first choice for everything, digital and coloured vinyl. I only dont use it if the colour is not available.

• This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

[Simon Worrall]

Ok well I hired a well known radio ad guy from Auckland to do me an advert.

I think its awesome and catchy.

It started airing yesterday. Doing twice a morning, 3 days a week.

(just as coincidentally I got swamped by a load of new work from existing clients 😳)

We are going to do a whole series of them to keep it from getting stale.

I have dropped it here for you guys to listen to.

• This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by  Simon Worrall.
• This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

Noahs-Art-30-001.mp3 476 KB MP3 - Click to view

• Copy Download Link

[Simon Worrall]

No. You will need to use Wax and grease remover first – then alcohol after.

[Simon Worrall]

I use stencil vinyl or removable vinyl.

Cut out the letters, smear Siroflex grip and grab glue with a squeegee over the opening the letter is going into, the thickness of the vinyl keeps it a good regular thickness of glue, press the letters in place, remove vinyl after a bit of drying time.

[Simon Worrall]

Pane this is where you persuade the client to go for gold leaf! It is sooo much nicer than vinyl, Comes in a book of 25 leaves, its 24 carat gold, it lasts forever outside, and its not that hard to do.

[Simon Worrall]

See? Karen likes it!

(I like it too!)

[Simon Worrall]

Beautiful work, beautiful concepts!

And loads of it!

[Simon Worrall]

Just an update, the customer has reluctantly agreed to go with acrylic on this job.

Thanks for your replies.

Simon.

[Simon Worrall]

Cleaning. This is a large proportion of the job, if you are doing it right. And probably the most important aspect when wrapping vehicles. An average van takes about 3-4 hours to clean properly.
I do it in three stages as follows:

1. Water/detergent/hose pipe. For everything water-based. Mud, bird droppings, dust, all that. I use a large pump up garden sprayer

2. Prepsol (I think its called wax and grease remover in the UK). For everything oil based. Tar, glue residue, wax, grease, etc. I just pour it over the cloth, and use plenty.

3. Isopropyl alcohol. For everything else, a final clean just before applying the vinyl. I use a spray bottle for this.

I buy the cloths as “bags of rags” from the salvation army shop, old cotton sheets are the best. I cut them into 1 foot squares, and chuck them away after a few minutes use. These are used for stages 1 and 2.

For stage 3, I use the expensive yellow or blue 3M Microfibre cloths, which I wash in the washing machine and reuse after a single use. They dont drop lint, and are very absorbent.

• This reply was modified 2 years, 7 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

[Simon Worrall]

Hi Pane

This is just a shot in the dark, but hear me out…

I know that the rollers on either end of my roland machine are slightly conical, in order to “stretch” the vinyl as it tracks along the print. I assume this is the same on all printers, though based on nothing more than speculation. Perhaps whoever assembled your machine got the rollers swapped round, so they are “pushing” the sides together rather than pulling them apart.

…..?

Just a thought. I cant think of any other reason that a printer would cause the media to cockle, other than what Rob said – cold room, hot printer.

[Simon Worrall]

This is sacrilege!!
It is almost like saying that overpopulation is the cause of all of our environmental problems! Completely true, but you are not allowed to say it in polite society!

Full wraps are a vanity project for a signwriter, more for the portfolio than for the pocket.
The level of skill, time, and material involved far outweighs the profit. I hear many outrageous estimates of the time taken to do a wrap. It takes me almost twice as long, and I charge much too much for them to get much work in that department.

[Simon Worrall]

I read that it was actually cheaper for them to change from Gill sans, for which apparently they pay an eternal license fee for every example, to their own in house typeface, which they own outright.

So it seens this is a money SAVING exercise.
I didnt know that fonts worked this way, but you live and learn.

🤔

[Simon Worrall]

I had a concrete floor, and was looking to upgrade to rubber, when a lovely client of mine was chucking away a lot of quality wool carpet which Ive used for my car wrapping bay. Free of charge.
Its so nice you could sleep on it.

• This reply was modified 2 years, 8 months ago by  Simon Worrall.
• This reply was modified 2 years, 8 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

[Simon Worrall]

Probably the most interesting question ever to be asked here lol!

Because every job is different, its not really possible to have a price list so to speak.

But to be fair to the customer, he wants to have some idea what he will be in for.

For a vehicle, I tell them its about $180 (nz) per square meter of printed wrap, or cut vinyl, applied. To this you add artwork, travel, unforseen events, really difficult jobs, time to remove door handles, etcetera.

[Simon Worrall]

Maybe your getting busier😊

[Simon Worrall]

What kind of crazy volume of work do some of these companies have that can make use of one of these?! That is some seriously impressive tech! I wonder how often it pulls off an i dot!

[Simon Worrall]

Yup. Sunday is my favourite day to work. Specially installing shop signs, when there is nobody about.

Mind you I am in the very fortunate position of having no kids.

This probably deserves its own thread!

[Simon Worrall]

Leslie.

Say you have red text with a yellow outline on your screen in front of you.

1. Draw two squares above the design, above left and above right.

2. Colour them yellow.

3. Copy them, and then paste them in place.

4. Colour the new ones red. You now have two red squares in front of two yellow squares above your design.

5. Open the design in your plotter software.

6. Plot all the red. Including the red squares.

7. Plot all the yellow. Including the yellow squares.

8. Weed and app tape

9. Cut out the graphics along the top edge of the squares on both the yellow and the red vinyl.

10. Place the yellow vinyl on the substrate and squeegee. Remove the app tape

11. Line up the two squares of red in front of the two identical squares of yellow. Tape the graphic in place. If you have done it correctly the rest of the graphic will fall exactly in the correct position (register). Squeegee and remove app tape. Now peel off the squares and dispose of them. They have done their job.

I am sure Rob will now say it better than me, and also fill in with beautiful diagrams!

• This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by  Simon Worrall. Reason: Added the word Register

[Simon Worrall]

What Craig says. Way more accurate than trying to eye through the plastic tape.

[Simon Worrall]

Kev this is all super high quality work, and lots of it! Nice going!

[Simon Worrall]

I think Ive almost got it now:

1.Outline text, horizontal line through middle of text, line must be BEHIND text.

2. Select all.

3. Pathfinder:merge.

4. Draw weeding box around everything.

5. There is stll some double lines inside the text islands to clean up though, but they come up without any fill colour, so its easy enough to select them all together and delete them.

[Simon Worrall]

It must be a later version that has it. I went back to cm2 because the inbuilt delays on the buttons on the later versions really frustrate me. I might have to revisit.

[Simon Worrall]

Except it leaves a double line! Back to the drawing board!

[Simon Worrall]

I think I ve got it…the TRIM command seems to do it…

[Simon Worrall]

Yeah thats the one Rob!

Without forking out thousands for Signlab, how can this be done in Illustrator?

[Simon Worrall]

Cut that. Its not that complicated. Half an hour each to weed.

[Simon Worrall]

I hate to say this, but from what I have been reading, recycling of everything other than metal appears to be mostly a myth.

For the most part it is sent to poor countries who then either burn it, put it in landfill, or more likely just dump it in the sea.

It is called recycling just to make us feel better about it, but that is very far from the truth.

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2019/aug/17/plastic-recycling-myth-what-really-happens-your-rubbish

[Simon Worrall]

There is always somebody cheaper. I have lost “loyal” customers to people prepared to charge below cost just to get the business. I dont know where they expect to go from there when they get a whole fleet of vans to wrap at a loss!

Im in NZ so my prices probably wont match up perfectly, but your quote sounds about right, even a bit low.

• This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

[Simon Worrall]

Great work Chris! Ide be proud of any of those jobs.

I hope you came out ahead in spite of your troubles M8!

[Simon Worrall]

Leslie answering questions is the reason we are here lol.

I have a graphtec fc 8600.

I use cutting master #3 (stopped at #3 because its good. #4 and up is a load of Bo**ox)

Perf cutting on this machine involves changing the position of the blade and changing the cutting “condition” which is a bit fiddly and time consuming. Certainly the runs of stickers I have ever done have been under a thousand, so definitely quicker to cut into strips by hand, once youve set up the machine and then reset it for normal use, not to mention the extra work in illustrator drawing the paths. I dont know how its done on the summa tbh.

[Simon Worrall]

I do a lot of large decals for agricultural equipment, which involve some fairly close registration with the machinery, with rounded corners and sometimes quite complex shapes. I use 3M printed wrap vinyl without any application tape.
Perforation cutting is a godsend for this job, its really easy to line it up, hold it with magnets, and tape one end, then work down the length with a felt squeegee. Both sides of this bin took about 40 minutes to apply for one man. Its about 3 meters long.
On the other hand, TBH, cutting out the backing of small stickers is usually much quicker by hand, unless you have a gigantic order to do or they absolutely have to line up in a particular way.

[Simon Worrall]

That stuff is really effective over a large area, like the whole side of a building. I remember a huge soft drink advert in Picadilly Circus was the first time I ever saw it. When the wind caught it it shimmered across the face in waves. Quite spectacular. It doesnt work in quite the same way on a smallish shop fascia, but it still looks good.

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks Rob. Makes sense about the water. This one is inside a building, but I think I will do it vertical for when they wash the windows.

[Simon Worrall]

Use the better vinyl. Call it insurance, or peace of mind, or whatever.
I use 3M wrap vinyl, mainly because its a brand customers have heard of, which makes it easier to sell. Avery, Arlon, Oracal, probably just as good technically, but they just dont have the brand recognition outside the sign industry.

[Simon Worrall]

I tend to agree with Pane and others. Unless the thing you are trying to digitise is organic and accuracy is not a priority, it doesnt really take very long to manually trace the average logo and the results speak for themselves.
In addition, there are plenty of places on the internet ( read low wage countries) who will do this job manually very well indeed for a few bucks

• This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

[Simon Worrall]

The chances are your customers have ALREADY put up their prices for whatever it is they do, and they are expecting to take a hit from you too. Dont be shy, just follow suit.

[Simon Worrall]

Just a wild shot in the dark David.

Check that the famous Roland outer wheels are not cracked.

[Simon Worrall]

Nice result Martyn. I think sign trays are so good looking and stylish. Here in NZ its a mission to get people to spend the extra money for a tray. Most people are happy with a sheet of ACM on a wall.

[Simon Worrall]

Nicely done Robert. I would put the writing on separately. I wouldnt trust myself to get it lined up right.

[Simon Worrall]

I cannot imagine a job where this would be useful.

[Simon Worrall]

I may have got this all wrong but how do you get a sharp inside corner with a 6mm bit?
Like Phill says, it must end up with a radius, that interferes with the fold. He does it with a jigsaw. I do it with a 3mm bit, which even then pushes the corner out slightly when you fold it, but not enough to be a problem.

[Simon Worrall]

I spray painted some CNC cut foamex letters using cans of auto paint from the local car spares shop, about 15 years ago, they are still perfectly good. Keeping it simple.

[Simon Worrall]

As long as both surfaces are “high energy”, and clean, I have found the black 3M vhb tape to be just about bulletproof…in all weathers. Never tried the clear stuff.

[Simon Worrall]

I think I am a bit OTT as well, I have done a number of jobs involving areas of white as well as areas of printed including white. I always use the same vinyl with the same finish, ie laminate the plain white to match. Subtle differences like this are easily picked up, and it gets expensive if you have to go back and fix it because the anally retentive customer isnt happy.
So, in conclusion, always be one step ahead of your customers in anal retentiveness😊

[Simon Worrall]

It’s only a matter of time before one of these is built that can follow all the curves on a vehicle body, as well as flat areas. And it will do it faster, better and cheaper than wrapping by hand. And it won’t pull out of the creases. You just need a printer head on a well-trained robot arm and some clever software.

• This reply was modified 2 years, 12 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

[Simon Worrall]

Martyn, I just have to say, aside from the issues, that is a really nice looking wrap! Shame about the fail, but big kudos to you for contacting the company before they came to you with a complaint.
It has been said everybody makes mistakes, but its the way you sort them out that makes a great business!

[Simon Worrall]

I hate the clear tape. Mainly the sound it makes on the squeegee, like nails on a blackboard. Ew!
Lining up is best done using register marks or lines and cutting the app tape up to that line, which then lines up with the reg mark of the colour below, or the edge of the board or some such. Easy with paper tape.
I dont see clear tape having any use whatsoever other than to make me feel nauseous😊
But to answer the original question, I dont think there is anything else.

[Simon Worrall]

This happened to me in my old workshop. North facing (New Zealand North = South for you guys) The landlord was pretty clued up and made me pay for it. The glass was from the pre-toughening days, and the panes were very large so I remember it was expensive.
Nothing dramatic, I got back to the shop one day to find a large crack across the glass. Since then I always include a disclaimer if I do a window job, and make sure its understood and signed before proceeding.

[Simon Worrall]

One of my suppliers offered me a bucket of clear wall coating meant for exactly this problem a year or two ago, as it is now pretty widespread and its a crapshoot whether the paint contains the silicone additive or not.

Apparently even some pigments of even the same line of paint prevent sticking while others are fine.

As has been said, either look out for this wall coating (cant remember what it was called) or use high tack vinyl. I use the hight tack arlon on painted walls as a matter of course – just in case. Its no more expensive.

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks guys, I will take a deep breath and start asking!

[Simon Worrall]

We use those metal expanding hammer-drive anchor tappet thingies in brick and concrete.

Don’t bother with the plastic ones. 6.5mm drill.

Yeah, about every 60cm or so.

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks for replies.
I divided the tiles up in Illustrator, put in a 10mm overlap, and reprinted them as three separate files. This time they came out within less than half a mm of each other, and line up perfectly.

Something perhaps wrong with the tiling function in Versaworks? I wont use it again. I havent actually ever used it before, preferring to do that manually in illustrator.

Anyway, just on my way out to fit the correctly printed thingy just in time for the opening tomorrow!

[Simon Worrall]

Hi Martyn

We did a pair of glass doors at a petrol station a few years ago with security film

The film is very thick and tough. We installed it wet.
Other than that it is not much different from any other clear film to install, there is nothing particularly hard about it.
Oh.. and cut it to size before you put it on the glass, it is not flexible enough to push into the corners for trimming.

As long as the curve is in one direction only and a wide radius, you probably wont have any trouble with that. the only issue I can think of is if you do apply it wet it may not be sticky enough fast enough to stop it springing away when you push down the curve? Dont know, never done curved glass. If its a compound curve dont even bother quoting. There is no stretch at all in this film…which I think is the whole point.
Just a thought, given the choice, I would apply it to the inside (concave) side of the curve rather than the outside, just to prevent it springing away.

• This reply was modified 3 years, 5 months ago by  Simon Worrall.
• This reply was modified 3 years, 5 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

[Simon Worrall]

looks about 2 meters of vinyl. Cost for a good wrap vinyl is about 40 pounds. Cost for a cheap vinyl, maybe 20 pounds. Ide be charging at least 180 pounds for that job. The difference overall is not really that great, so just for the peace of mind go with something decent. And for a bonus it is much easier to apply an air release wrap vinyl.
And if money is really an issue, just give them the choice, offer to drop the price by 20 squid for the cheap option, but with a very short guarantee.

[Simon Worrall]

did you try removing the protective paper first?

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks Jamie the lens correction tool is just what I was looking for.

[Simon Worrall]

David if you want to cut through acm with vinyl on it use a downcut spiral bit. That will push the vinyl edge down onto the material rather than pulling it away from the ACM as with an upcut bit, which is whats causing your ragged edges.

Downcuts do generate a lot of heat, so you have to use shallower passes than otherwise.
They also help the small parts to not jump off the table by pushing downwards, so there is a bit of a bonus.

• This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by  Simon Worrall.
• This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

[Simon Worrall]

Some good points there Richard.
Hi tec 3d is too complicated. I prefer simple!
I use two 600mm magnetic strips arranged into a cross on the door on the midpoint of the car.
I place the camera perpendicular to that so I am standing in the middle.

That way you can draw a 60mm square in illustrator, and scale the picture up or down to that, then work at 10%. Simple, and reasonably accurate.

• This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

[Simon Worrall]

Poor quality short term contravision, or unmatched laminate, I would say. I once made the mistake of getting some cheap contravision for a short term job that wrinkled as soon as it unrolled new from the roll and went over the heated printer bed, to the point where I could not even print it without a head strike.

[Simon Worrall]

Place your white laminated vinyl over a light source and trace the reg marks using a black pen of the correct nib thickness. Or if you dont trust yourself with a pen, print out a set of 4 reg marks, cut them out, and stick them in the exact position, again using a light source behind.

[Simon Worrall]

Sure you can use a bunch of layers on the bench. I applied the green here OVER the blue on the work bench, and then applied both together with app tape to the vehicle in one go. Again, both were air release, so no problem with bubbles there, and I find the 3M app tape is somewhat conformable, so getting it over the recesses was not a problem.

s-2020-10-06-at-17.51.47-scaled.jpg 358 KB Image File - Click to view

• Copy Download Link

[Simon Worrall]

I would have used an air release vinyl for this job, like 3M 180MC silver. Makes life so much easier.

• This reply was modified 3 years, 7 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

[Simon Worrall]

Ive done contravision on vehicles that are still there 8+ years later, looking fine. I dont see why a shop window would not last just as long. There are different grades of contravision of course, just like there are different grades of vinyl. Use the good stuff with the good laminate, you should be okay.

[Simon Worrall]

I trace it in Illustrator, and I charge for the service – unless the job is highly profitable and I dont want to rock the boat. It often takes longer to explain the service than it takes to just do the job.

[Simon Worrall]

Oh yes Rob…the old “streamlining” story. What could possibly go wrong?

[Simon Worrall]

A sheet of bubble wrap?

[Simon Worrall]

+1 for vinyl directly applied to the glass. It doesnt make sense to use anything else.

[Simon Worrall]

Cut a stencil and paint though it with a different colour of the same paint used for the floor.

Or alternatively just practice your signwriting skills and dont bother with the stencil!

• This reply was modified 3 years, 7 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

[Simon Worrall]

I have the sassercut pro. Great idea, but the result is not that great. The cut itself is a bit ragged. Turns out you get a much better result hooking into one side or the other of the door gap with a 9mm blade. Or maybe its just me. The result is improved if a fine spray of water is applied to the vinyl to lubricate the blade, and the blade has to be spot on sharp.

[Simon Worrall]

Next time I will try to loosen the bumper and pull it away, if its not too complicated.🤔

[Simon Worrall]

David. Thanks for the questions.

1. Dont laugh…its an SP 540v. 😊

Yes its old, but I get it fully serviced by a roland engineer every six months without fail. It takes the best part of a day, and boy does Dave know his stuff. (cha-ching)

And there are still thousands of them about.

I have never not done the weekly clean, and the heads are jetting a perfect pattern.

2. Dont laugh again…Jetbest inks. 😊😊

Ive been using them since the warranty ran out.

They have never had issues, they are easily as good as Roland inks.

I believe Roland buy them in from the same factory, and they brand them, warranty them and charge a premium to cover this.

[Simon Worrall]

Nah leave it like that its cool.🤣

[Simon Worrall]

Yup. Listened to 15 episodes of “things fell apart” and four episodes of Joe Rogan.

Sort of killed the pain.

[Simon Worrall]

Yes Rob I mentioned that when he sent the finished ad to me.

He said everyone asks that, but the truth is nobody remembers or writes down the number.

Best to leave it to google.

[Simon Worrall]

Kevin that sounds like it will work!

Thanks😅

[Simon Worrall]

You got me in stitches Hugh!🤣

• This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by  Simon Worrall.

[Simon Worrall]

Nothing I can see.

[Simon Worrall]

Yeah David there is a public room behind the wall so thats a non starter, but thanks for the suggestion.
I have sent the email telling him of my concerns, basically saying its acrylic or nothing. Awaiting a response.

[Simon Worrall]

5mm is a bit spindly. They want something a bit chunkier. The building was designed by nzs most awarded architect, and this has to match the chunky style.

[Simon Worrall]

yeah no Phil he knows the difference.

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks Cian, nearly there, but this leaves me with double lines: Second image pulled apart to show…

[Simon Worrall]

Really? I have a graphtec, but I havent seen this on cutting master, only weeding lines between the text.

[Simon Worrall]

ide be interested to see if the plotter can even move this stuff given its magnetic and would tend to stick to the bed.

[Simon Worrall]

Hi Rob

I discovered the fault just before fitting the first sheet. I laid them out on the carpet at the customers premises to check for alignment. I didnt even think to look for that fault before cutting them out and packing up.

[Simon Worrall]

Wish I could get it in NZ. I have a job for it. Might have to import some. Those masks looks really effective Kevin.
What is the diameter of the tubes?