[Simon Worrall]

Hi thanks Rob.

This is a long term wrap, which will be out in the elements for its entire life.
It is newly built, and most of the panels still have the plastic protection of brand new aluminium sheets, so the oxydation is not noticeable. But apparently it is always there on aluminium, and it is an issue.

I went in and did a few panels yesterday, I used steel wool dunked in wax and grease remover, wiped it off with a dry cloth, and followed by a liberal cleaning with plenty of iso, and then I went round the edges with 3M primer 94.

The wrap is avery supreme.
It seemed to stick very well indeed, and doesnt look like its going anywhere fast, but who knows? Time will tell I spose. I think Ive done my best.

Aluminium cleaner? Have to look that one up.

[Simon Worrall]

Job done. I took Phills and Robs advice, it worked out well.
I didnt really need to fill in the gap on the underneath, even though it can be seen from the road, the shadow thrown by the plank above completely hides the missing section of the letters.
The building was newly repainted with acrylic gloss, so it stuck well and I dont think it will be coming off.

Thanks for all your help.

[Simon Worrall]

If you have to ask the question your not charging enough.

Only use wrap vinyl or cast vinyl on a car exterior.

– In my opinion.🤣

[Simon Worrall]

I just found PDF CANDY which offers splitting up pdfs into individual pages for free.

As well as a number of other free things.

Thats cool. I nearly got sucked into a subscription for acrobad.

[Simon Worrall]

I use the 9mm olfa snap off blades, the 30 and the 45 degree ones.

However, the 30 degree blades have some issues.

1. you cant snap them off on a table, you have to use the thing on the end with a slot in it, which I usually lose, so I have to carry pliers. Even so it sometimes takes two or three attempts to get a proper snap without breaking the blade – wasteful.

2. They are not very accurate for ruler cutting…the blade bends easily if you are not real careful, and if you sight down the line you have just cut you might see it weaving from side to side. The 45 degree blades are much more rigid.

To be real accurate its best to use the 18mm blades, or even the 25mm blades, since these hardly bend at all.

For heat I use a plumber torch almost exclusively. It’s so much quicker and less hassle than an electric heat gun.

And for a squeegee, I use the Avery white Teflon ones with one felt edge.

[Simon Worrall]

It was on TV. 😃

https://www.newshub.co.nz/home/new-zealand/2023/12/new-mobile-caravan-hub-for-nelson-to-help-locals-emergency-crews-in-disasters.html

[Simon Worrall]

🙂 yup they are all aware.

The price has gone up.
This one done.
Next one coming january.

[Simon Worrall]

Its a horrible job Myles. Charge it accordingly.

Since you already have a relationship with the bloke, just work till its finished, and charge him the hours.

Youd never get a quote out of a sparky. Why are signwriters any different?

[Simon Worrall]

Sorry what exactly has failed? Is it the carbon fiber or is it the decal over the top?

[Simon Worrall]

Just for context, last year had a rush job to print some posters, but they insisted on a MATT finish.

I only had gloss in stock.

So, thinking laterally, I used the BACK of some gloss paper, which turns out to have a lovely matt surface that only a latex printer can print on successfully.
Now THAT material also stuffed up the machine on exit, it was simply the gloss finish gripping against the glossy shiny lip of the printer, at a high temperature, that put the brakes on. Connecting the takeup reel in this case made the problem worse by pulling it down round the curve, increasing the surface area in contact.

When I released it from the take-up reel it took the pressure off and worked fine.

[Simon Worrall]

Flame treat the surface with a plumbers torch. Quickly pass a very hot open flame over it. obviously not enough to melt or disfigure it, just a quick pass. Then clean it again with iso. then apply the vinyl within a couple of hours.

Try it on a hidden section first 😉

[Simon Worrall]

I always apply etch vinyl wet, and I always leave it overnight before removing the app tape.

I learned the hard way. (your way!)

[Simon Worrall]

And Sharon was off to such a good start getting the apostrophe spot on!

…

Having said that, I abandoned apostrophes entirely a decade ago in my private life.

Dont use em. Dont miss em.

Except I still have to use them in my professional life as a signwriter, because the customer is always right, right?

[Simon Worrall]

DIg deep into ANY claims of “ecofriendliness” and you find they are ALL greenwash. Latex inks are as bad as anything else in their manufacturing process. The “latex” sounds natural like it gets tapped from rubber trees in a friendly symbiotic process. It doesnt.
“Recycling” has always been a scam. “Biomass” generally means “Swathes of beautiful trees cut down in Canada, shipped across the world, and burned at Drax.” Electric vehicles, while they may be nice and clean to drive, are certainly not green to charge…or to manufacture.
Solar panels are generally placed on the cheapest land, which in most parts of the world turn out to be forest or other delicate ecosystem, or at best, farmland, which takes away food production. Windmills the same. Hydrogen is made from natural gas in a lossy process that actually puts out more co2 than just burning the original gas. “Green” hydrogen? Do me a favour. “Carbon Capture machines?” Omg that is the worst scam of all.
So probably best to join the scam, buy “carbon credits” from some international broker who will pay some of your money to a carbon capture scam artist to “offset” your polluting ways, which enables you to pretend that you are not pumping carbon into the atmosphere, if you do some complicated mathematics to prove it.

Although you are.

Tell your customer to not have the third, fourth and fifth child. Thats probably the ONLY green thing he can do.
He will, of course, take offence, and go look for another signwriter.

[Simon Worrall]

Hugh.
I tried all those mixtures, and wasnt really happy with any of them.

But the 100%cmyk is just such a good black.

AND you need to turn OFF colour correction to get the full effect, so its not good with photos.

When the heat is cranked up to 116 and there is an inter pass delay I crank up to full, you dont get that greasy surface. Its nice and shiny, and sticks well to the laminate.

It is more costly in ink, and obviously takes longer to print and uses more power. It certainly sends the machine to the limit. You can see steam coming out of print and that latex smell infuses the studio, but I have a decent air extraction unit at my place.

[Simon Worrall]

I got my first roll of SLX a couple of weeks ago, only because my supplier had run out of 3M 180

Observations.

1. It was a hundred bucks cheaper for the kit than 3m180

2. It prints well. I have an ongoing job to install giant decals on either side of these monster seed drill machines.The decals are mostly black. 100% black on the HP printer is an insipid grey-brown, so I print these things in “register colour” which consists of 100% of all of CMYK, perhaps the heaviest ink load possible on this machine. I use maximum heat, with full inter pass delay, in order to get this flood of ink to dry properly, which gives the most beautiful black I have seen on any printer.

The vinyl takes the ink well, and doesnt curl during the drying process.

3. When you laminate it it seems to remain silvery for a few days, but once it flattens out it is beautiful and rich. The 3m doesnt really silver at all.

4. As has been said already, the initial stick is very weak, to the point I thought there was something wrong with it, and its super easy to repostion, but with a bit of heat and some elbow grease it seems to go down okay. Its early days and I havent had any complaints, yet.

5. The vinyl/laminate combo appears to be quite a lot thinner than the 3M I am used to, but it seems to take stretching in its stride.

Overall Im happy with it. I Might make this permanent, since Im saving decent money on each roll.

[Simon Worrall]

I would say there is more to it than just poor quality vinyl. This looks like it has been attacked with a solvent of some kind

[Simon Worrall]

I use twitter a lot, i have strong opinions on certain subjects, and have a good number of followers – many of whom I call friends. I have had some great fun yelling matches with people I disagree with over the years.

But now that the “interesting people” (blue check marks) are no longer verifiable, and the general feel of the site is somewhat oppressive and pointless, with that f++++++g (flipping) Musk moron throwing curveballs just to get attention, I am just no longer interested.

His electric cars are time bombs waiting to go off.

I wish he would just take his money and bugger off to Mars.

Nobody likes him any more.

[Simon Worrall]

I had a Roland SP540 for ten years, in all that time It NEVER did a decent print/cut. I tried everything, but that blade cut would just get further and further away.

Eventually I bought a graphtec plotter that could read registration marks, and got perfect cuts every time after that.

TBH even the print quality of the roland was never truly acceptable. Nowadays I have a latex printer.

I dont know why anybody would still buy a Roland. The solvent technology is stone age, and if they still cant get the print/cut right, its just not fit for purpose.

[Simon Worrall]

Electric Jesus just wants attention.

All the time.

[Simon Worrall]

Definitely not for the faint hearted! But its instant heat, anywhere, without a cord.

If you hold it at least a foot away from the work its manageable.

The shape is rather cumbersome to put down safely, it can easily tip over and bend the tip or burn something. So thats a worry.

In use its very light and balanced, no faults there.
I have added it to my kitbox and I use it out on jobs where its a pain to drag a 30m cable over a dirty workshop floor.

Having bought the thing I have found it really useful for various jobs round the workshop including my own hobby, building radio control planes.

Yup. Nerd.☺

A good purchase.

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks, Gordon.

I found this one which is a plumber’s torch. It does the trick exactly as I wanted, $261nzd.

It was very well-reviewed on youtube.

I am doing a mural using Arlon 6700 high tack cast vinyl.

I tried a test piece, it is perfect for getting enough heat to press the vinyl into the concrete very quickly.

Obviously, the vinyl catches fire if you leave it on a second too long, so…. 🙂

Website: mitre10.co.nz

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjRWRsLobpM

[Simon Worrall]

All I can suggest, Hugh, is to work off a scaffolding.
Those boom lifts are pretty scary at that height, and you will do a better more relaxed job from a solid surface.

[Simon Worrall]

I have never quite worked out why the UK never cottoned on to Robinson [ square drive ] screws.
They just work.

[Simon Worrall]

Hi Martin

I use grey glue vinyl for everything I print. It hides the colour of the substrate, and gives some consistency to the print colours.

Some coloured vinyls even come with a grey or a white glue.

On a flat surface theres no reason for the vinyl to touch the surface until your ready for it, if you tape up each panel to the top and work down in sequence.

[Simon Worrall]

Whaa? They still make solvent printers?😊

[Simon Worrall]

This is how one man tapes up a 6 meter x 1.2 metre vinyl at Noahsart.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taXW85ooCPY&ab_channel=Noahsart

[Simon Worrall]

I have always been given to understand that Matt laminate doesnt last as long as gloss. Ive never tested this and Im happy to be proved wrong. I know that when stretched too far or heated too much when wrapping, then mat tends to go a bit glossy and ruin the consistency of the wrap.

But I get your point, Pane. Matt certainly looks very smart.

[Simon Worrall]

Good choice David. You wont regret it.

[Simon Worrall]

Quite recently got an HP latex 335 to replace my ailing Roland sp540v.

The prints are much better, faster, and dryer.

BUT loading this thing is an endless nightmare. You got to kneel down, put the vinyl onto a shaft, feed it through a tight and difficult bend, which usually peels back the vinyl from the paper and makes it grab onto the rollers and ruin the first 30cm or so. Then, when you finally get it loaded, you have to feed through about half a meter of vinyl or the heaters will make the print curl and touch the top, ruining the print, and/or make the head smash into the curled vinyl. Restarting is another ten minutes, and another wasted load of vinyl. And half a meter before the end of the roll the printer will stop to let you know the vinyl is finished, so those endrolls and offcuts that used to be useful for small jobs…into the bin.

If you want to use the take up roller, thats another meter or so of vinyl wasted, and another really tricky feed

Frankly, this is a wonderful printer that is NOT designed very well.

The Roland? I could print a very small offcut, and have it up and running in minutes, although the print quality was not so good. it couldnt print greys and some other colours properly.

[Simon Worrall]

Lol Ive had a few close ones!

Fortunately I usually remember to do a flight test before committing to a postion

[Simon Worrall]

The text is unreadable. The design is unfathomable.
I spose thats a picture of the blokes work, so keep the pic, remove that mess of a design, and write FEATURE WALLS in a contrasting colour, or as Phill says, outline it so its at least legible.

[Simon Worrall]

I would say its a symptom of the cheap Chinese production system falling apart.
Things are going to be different now.
Not just heat guns.

[Simon Worrall]

Good points all.

I find a square meter price convenient to talk about with the customers.
They understand the concept.
You only use about a square for every linear meter anyhow with wastage. So its fair.

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks.
I dont know why I didnt think of reprinting the bits that are coming up. Seems obvious now you said it Rob!
The simple fixes are the best.
cheers Martin. I didnt know you could get 3m tape in sheets. I will use that on another job.

[Simon Worrall]

Meh

[Simon Worrall]

I use Dreamstime.
83 nzd per month for 100 images per month that add up as long as you keep the subscription current.

I think it’s pretty good value.
https://www.dreamstime.com

[Simon Worrall]

@DavidHammond
1. I Don’t have acrobat pro. I suppose I should get that.
2. Placing works, thank you for that! but the fonts turn into the “default font”

However, I found a workaround yesterday, which is a bit slow, but still…
in Flexiprint you can individually clip the panels and reduce the margin between them to zero.
A bit hit-and-miss though.

[Simon Worrall]

@MartynHeath
1. Illustrator won’t open the documents.
2. The fonts are not outlined, so unless I have the font on my system, I then have to go out chasing the dam things on the internet.

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks Richard, for that diagram. That makes sense. I have a pair of work lights I can use.

[Simon Worrall]

Had the same with my Roland. Magenta has stopped working entirely.

Now selling for spares.

[Simon Worrall]

30,000 vehicles!

[Simon Worrall]

They are VERY expensive to produce.
I can understand their reticence in handing them out to everyone.

But of course, often, no sample – no sale.

So suppliers try to gauge who is serious and who is just collecting sample books for fun.

[Simon Worrall]

Actually I am a little disappointed that ALL of the vehicle outlines use a stupid scale that nobody understands.
It should be 10:1!
I do ALL my designs 10:1 (or an order of magnitude of ten), and I have NEVER made a scale mistake.
Its stuff like this wot stuffs up jobs.

[Simon Worrall]

Hi Pane!

Whatever you gain in energy by NOT scoring and snapping and then planing, you will lose in the clean- up.
Saws are just machines to convert materials into dust. Even the best dust collection misses lots.

And even with a perfectly new blade, the edge will still need finishing

(in my opinion)

[Simon Worrall]

Even if this takes off, at a price affordable to the masses, there will be a huge aftermarket demand for installing this electronic skin. So wrappers will be even busier.

[Simon Worrall]

I clean in three stages;

1. Water with washing up liquid/baby shampoo. Takes care of the water based dirt, mud, etc.

2. Prepsol or wax and tar remover, for anything oil based as well as any wax residue. I use cotton sheets from salvation army ripped into rags. I throw away one rag per panel.

3. Follow up with Isopropyl alcohol, which gets rid of whats left. I do the whole vehicle at once, plus each panel gets the iso treatment just prior to wrapping it. For the iso I use 3M microfibre cloths which gets washed between uses.

[Simon Worrall]

Just to add a little twist to this christmas wrapping story, the van itself is about a centimeter taller than my workshop entrance.
I was planning to wrap it in my driveway, which is really nice when the sun shines but the forecast here in the south island is heavy rain for the next two weeks…Right now ive got plastic over the removed windows and handles, and its looking a bit grim.
So. Lower the tyre pressure and put it into the workshop? Anyone ever done this?

[Simon Worrall]

Its avery supreme. Im more used to 3m wrap vinyl and I prefer it, but Ive used supreme a few times and its fine. The red I needed was low on stock.

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks all.

The best black I can get is using 100, 100, 100, 100, and unchecking the colour correction tab on the rip.

I can also get the same result by using the “registration colour” in illustrator, which I believe does the same thing, printing 100% of all four colours.

On the Roland this used to put so much ink down it dripped down the print and ruined it.

[Simon Worrall]

Heres an idea. Put a space heater INSIDE the container, and run it while you work. That should heat up the walls enough to apply vinyl on the outside.

Oh okay. I just read the other comments about this.

[Simon Worrall]

I tried this the other day in anticipation of a big order.

I put a few layers of masking tape either side of the platen which is steel on my Graphtec, to keep the magnet from touching and sticking on that.

I cut some squares from .8mm material, with 6mm radius corners, cutter on very slow, one two and three passes at medium pressure (graphtec plotters are not measured in grams so I cant be more specific)

I got a pretty okay result on all the above, a single pass seemed just as good as three passes.

Really you only need to cut through the top vinyl layer, and you can break the shape out of the waste. With a bit of practice you can get an okay result, the top being smoothly cut and just a little bit of furring on the edges, but acceptable.
I havent had the order yet, so I dont know how it will go in any quantity, but I am happy to try.

As a back up I do have a dragknife attachment on my CNC so I can cut it right through if the results are not good enough, unfortunately the CNC does not have any sort of register system so that will be a challenge.

As an even more reliable back up I can always cut them out with a ruler and not have rounded corners, they are not expecting these – it was just something I would do if I could.

Trial and error. Thats how we learn!

[Simon Worrall]

Mines a T5. Best van Ive ever had. As Pane says, the seats simply unclip and you have a spacious van. Put them back and you have a luxury car with a big boot that drives like a dream. It even comes in 4wd.

Just dont get the 180 horsepower version of the T5. It has “issues”

[Simon Worrall]

I used to make neon signs.
I dont do it any more.

Try Ken at Magpie Neon in Gillingham, Kent ( if hes still going, Ive been in NZ for nearly 20 years so lost touch)

[Simon Worrall]

Nice to see somebody else trying to keep an old sp running. Good one Phill!

[Simon Worrall]

Composite all day.

Since the very first time I saw it, i have used nothing else for flat and trays.
its 100% better than anything else in every way.

[Simon Worrall]

Thats a good suggestion.

I did do that three weeks ago, so I assumed its not that, but I am open to the possibility.
Its not really the same kind of wandering effect you normally get with the encoder strip, where the whole design wanders side to side over the print – but I will clean it tomorrow when I get in to work – just in case you are correct.

[Simon Worrall]

Im just going to use this thread to mention something about the forum that Ive noticed…

When I want to reply to a thread, I press the big reply button, and I get a window pop up that says “reply to” and its never the person who started the thread in the first place…its always somebody (seemingly randomly) else in the thread.

For example, this one. Leslie started it, so presumably I will be answering Leslies question. But at the top of this window it says “Reply to Paul Stenning”

Not a big deal but…

[Simon Worrall]

The time taken to wrap the cheap vinyl round the board more than makes up for the extra price of decent vinyl.

[Simon Worrall]

Most probably static. Imho.

[Simon Worrall]

Another thing to check is the vacuum on the print bed. if its too strong, it may “hold back” the vinyl on the printer from flowing through at an even pace, resulting in some ugly uneven print lines.
Ive certainly made that mistake in the past.
Yes I know its only on the green for you, but its something to bear in mind.

[Simon Worrall]

Cant help you there Pane…other than to pass on the knowledge that stainless steel blades dont scratch glass. So use them instead.

[Simon Worrall]

The saga so far;

I cleaned the strip.

Had a job printing a plane with lots of blue sky.

The print, towards the left, was streaked.

With some more investigation it turns out that anything with a lot of cyan in it has streaky problems.

However, doing test prints only show that all the jets are firing perfectly, without any drop out at all, and they all seem to be firing in the right direction.

I did some deep cleans, cleaning fluid drops in the parking bays, printing using differing profiles, print speeds and head heights, I seem to have reached a point where the prints are acceptable, although the underlying problem is still there.
ie. I have no clue what it is other than it is somehow related to the cyan.

So I can live with it, I guess, until my techie comes and sorts it out for me next month. I hope.

Unless anybody else has some ideas?

I really dont want to have to buy another printer.

[Simon Worrall]

If we are quiet and need the work, Ill come out for nothing, measure up, quote and even draw up a rudimentary design.

That usually gets the job, and I sink the costs into the quote.

If its busy as, Ill let them know there will be a price to step out, job or no job. That sorts the time wasters.

If its a good customer with history, Ill come out for nothing no matter how busy.

Most of my ongoing customers dont even want a quote.

They just want the job done, no mistakes, on time.

[Simon Worrall]

Nice job Martyn!

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks for the reply Hugh. All good here M8.😊

There are no links between the slats.

The entire door is pressed from a single sheet of spring steel.😳

[Simon Worrall]

[Simon Worrall]

Thats a fun environment to work in!

[Simon Worrall]

i hope so Pane. Too late to go back now!

[Simon Worrall]

Absolutely not!

As Rob says, Ide rather invest in Acrobat.

Everything else on my version of flexi is pretty well perfect. I just thought I had missed something obvious. I guess its just a function to get the muppets to part with their money.

I spose this could be an issue if I was a huge shop passing quantity through the printer each day, but at my level a few extra minutes for the odd pdf that comes in a batch is not worth spending up large for.

[Simon Worrall]

Quote: “I have made banners for over 33 years”
Just how old ARE you Rob?! You look about 16 in your profile!

[Simon Worrall]

Nothing unscrewed, not even those small lights. They were all glued on or siliconed on.

There were fittings behind preventing the big hinges from unscrewing – I had thought I could take them off one by one, leaving two in place on each big door. Alas not to happen.

I did cut everything close, although I now see the logic in cutting away from them all…your post came too late to do anything about it. In a few places i had a bit of white show through so I cut out snug fitting vinyl “sleeves” to go around all the shapes, which are invisible against the blue.

And that high intensity reflective had to have clear strips cut out to waterproof all round the edges – its not like you can buy a sealed pattern like you can with standard vehicles in the UK.

[Simon Worrall]

THat is exactly what I need David! Thanks for that!
I didnt get these with my printer. I will see if I can get some from the dealer.

[Simon Worrall]

The scale is 1-100. This was set at 15.

[Simon Worrall]

It turns out that was the last they had in stock, so probably no more in the country. I ordered a much lighter material, so well see how that performs.

I will take your advice and not run anything that heavy through my printer again.

[Simon Worrall]

Actually its fine coming out of the machine until the weight gets so much it acts as a brake against the lip. IT is even worse when connected up to the take up reel, its the angle it pulls at that really grabs the edge.

[Simon Worrall]

“I really do not buy into the whole global warming stuff, I think it is a pile of crap.”

I disagree. 100%.
The trouble is, there are NO realistic fixes, just giant funnels of idiot government money into useless programs to make us feel like something is being done.

That’s where the pile of crap lies.

[Simon Worrall]

I wish. 😊

[Simon Worrall]

Having said that I just tried the rgb black and that turned out pretty good.

[Simon Worrall]

Ha!
I bought one of those horrid old pc60s second hand. Might have been your old one! Late 1990s.

It couldnt seem to finish a print without messing something up. Tangled ribbon, usually.

Probably the worst idea Roland has ever had.

[Simon Worrall]

It takes a real man to admit a mistake!

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks Rob, your comments are very helpful.
Actually the entrance is 3.6 metres wide, which is the same width as the distance between those two vertical lines running up the front , so the 2.4 diameter circle would not be nearly as big as your drawing shows. My drawing is correct.

Anyhow, on pondering this I think I will respectfully decline this job, I may try to find somebody to take it on, but NZ is not structured the same way as the UK, specially here in the boonies of the south island.

[Simon Worrall]

I only got production manager Hugh. It wont do this unfortunately.

[Simon Worrall]

Rob are you saying that the rip is capable of applying the graphtec registration marks?

If that is so, then how do you perform the cut? My graphtec cuts from an illustrator plug in, Cutting Master.
I dont know if you can cut from the Production Manager rip.

Maybe I need to look into this further.

[Simon Worrall]

Thank you Graham.
I will check if this is available here in NZ.

Simon

[Simon Worrall]

I dont know what happened there Rob, I didnt intend to upload a photo at all! Must be fumbling fingers.

[Simon Worrall]

You can take off even 10mm if you use a pair of mole grips with the super wide mouths. You just bend back and snap as usual, a few inches at a time.

Alternatively place the score line exactly over the edge of the table, and using a large rubber mallet, gently tap and snap, from one end to the other.

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks Robert.
The weather was quite nice today so I did about a quarter of it this arvo outside.

If it holds I will keep it where it is. Glad to hear the tyre thing actually works in practice.

Another issue this van has thrown up is the joins in the bodywork.

They are filled with black goo, it looks like rubber but it is actually some kind of tar.

Can I wrap over them?

I really dont want to knifeless tape either side, because there is no way I will be steady enough not to get some ugly white showing through the red vinyl, and I dont want the edge of the vinyl to end up on the tar because Im pretty sure it wont stick. I tried a test patch, and the glue looks a bit stained with tar when you peel it back.

Heres a pic.

[Simon Worrall]

Thank you Rob! You always come through with good information.

Yup thats the van. If it had that roofrack things might be a little easier, but it is straight out of the dealership without any extras. Ive already had the mirrors, window trim, grill, and kickboards taken off. The panel guys couldnt get the arial off.

Perhaps if they also had better access they might have tried harder, but now its down to me…

Hmm perhaps I could reach it from standing on the seat. First look seemed too much of a distance, but it might be doable with a bit of contortion. Might wait a day or so after christmas dinner!

[Simon Worrall]

Just to update, I printed 10 meters of promoview perforated vinyl yesterday, it went without any problems.

1500ms interval, 107 degrees heat, 10 passes.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

[Simon Worrall]

Uh! That music! I might just jump out the window!

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks Leslie and Rob.
I looked through all the HP contravision profiles, and the curing heat on all of them looks to be really high, and the vacuum really low, which seems to be the problem.
On advice from my supplier, Ive ordered the Promoview, and Ive figured out how to clone a profile, turning down the heat and you can add a delay between each printing pass to make up for it.

[Simon Worrall]

I will try that tomorrow. Thanks David .

[Simon Worrall]

I got it new in 05 or thereabouts.

– I know what your thinking!

but when its working it does everything I need, perfectly well.
Ive never been that busy that I need something churning out meters per second, and Im not impressed by bells and whistles. Its a good basic printer.

Its hardly ever had anything done to it at all.

One new head, about ten years ago. Blew something on the board a while back. Thats it.

Awesome service guy comes every 6 months – he loves these machines!

Hes quite old. When he retires I guess the machine follows shortly after!

[Simon Worrall]

Well thats a new one…they work upside down?

[Simon Worrall]

Yup Perhaps I will next time, but this time I went the other way.
Fixed it, took me 4 hours, charged in full to the customer.

[Simon Worrall]

THanks Rob.

I actually cleaned it about a month ago cos the print was wandering.
But I will defo do that tomorrow anyway and see if it helps.

🤔

[Simon Worrall]

Reckon he knew exactly what he was saying!

Thats the kind of obtuse comment my old man would have said to get a reaction from me!

[Simon Worrall]

Click on menu bar item..a window pops up to sign in or log in.

Go to the website, if you have a windows machine you get the choice to unsubscribe. If you have a mac, your out of luck.

Hold cmd key and drag it out – you get a circle with a slash through it as in NOPE CANT DO THAT!

This thing is sticky as.

[Simon Worrall]

Thanks Jamie.

I downloaded and tried app cleaner, it couldnt even see the program – or anything associated with it. No searches bring it up. I am flummoxed.