Russell Spencer
Forum Replies Created
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If you can find a screen printer with a ‘pad print’ set up, that will print onto curved surfaces. If its plastic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlypyjjLDZI
I think for 500 the transfer and etch process would be too long winded, might be a special printing ink for glass though?
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quote Robert Lambie:I agree with you Russell, but with a boat of this size, i would be more inclined to make sure it was done in a single bit of vinyl running the length of the boat mate.
Good point, but I doubt 1300mm will get you from the bow down to the water line because of the angle it runs in at.
When I used to do boats, the manufacturers used to put a score line in the mould on the water line for a level when fitting out. We used to line stripes up with it so it looked right in the water. Have a look for it when it comes out of the water, it definitely helps.
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your only option would be to sand down and re-paint if your just sticking vinyl on.
If its a traditional pub sign with raised sides, you could cut a panel of ACM that sits inside the recess and bond it in with VHB.
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I think you would find ali composite would dent and mark with time.
They used to be made from a material called ‘Darvic’ which was a high impact coloured PVC.
If you just want them clear probably Polycarbonate would be your best bet, its tough stuff.
If they are longer than 500mm you should be looking at about 4mm thick as they will bow between the fixings (unless you put loads in)
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Back in the day, we used to call it ‘Posturization’
I think any good image/bitmap editor, (photoshop etc) has this in as a special effect, generally you can specify the number of colours you want so just drop this down to 1 (or could be 2, black and white)
Plenty of online tutorials if your unsure.
cheers
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Start from the back and work forward when applying, so your overlaps are the right way and the water wont get behind the vinyl as easily.
Also nothing will stick to anti foul underneath the waterline
good luck
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i’ve always liked the polytop screws, available in different colours.
Best price is from Ashby, you can mix and match colours to get your quantity discount.They are not really suitable for anything smaller than A4 size though, they look a bit big.
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have you tried contacting Bostik/Evode the manufacturer to see if its available seperately.
They may be able to point you in the right direction. -
Speak to Kestrel, they are good with stuff like that. They will build you the complete box than can just bolt to the crane, you will need to give them fixing centres etc.
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304 for interior, 316 (marine & food grade) for exterior, but there is quite a difference in the cost. If you can, quote both options (and reasons) to the customer and let them decide. Basically the 316 will weather better outside than the the 314
The finish of the stainless is usually defined as BP (bright polished or mirror) or DP1 (brush finish)
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Just checking that you realise you wont be able to cut anything other than vinyl or paper on this type, no rigid materials, maybe thin PVC (1mm) but nothing thicker.
Not sure on H&S regulations though, we used to have 3 guillotines of different types and never had them inspected by anyone, just had a maintenance log for each. They were happy with that.
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Simplefix are the ones we always have problems with after a couple of years. From my understanding the snapfix ones are ‘UV resistant’ so dont split. The simplefix cups seem to give up after about 3 years.
We have drawers full of male parts of simplefix coz they dont sell the females parts (buckets) seperately.
Each time we have a customer with one letter thats fallen off, we always give him a quote to replace them on all letters, because we can pretty much guarantee we will be back in a couple of months if one has goneAnyone else have the same issues?
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We bought an adjustable rail from b&Q which did 3-5′ wide and had 2 sets of velvet curtains made with about a 3′ drop, one set in gold one set in red.
Cost us about £180 at the time. But we used to hire them out at £50 a go, over 10 years we got our money back and then some!!! -
(can you not just re-wrap the doors?) – edit (no you cant, you said)
If not if your handy with a brush you could paint the oracal letters with thinners (cellulose is best) this should wrinkle the vinyl and split it from the adhesive. then it should just be a question of cleaning off the adhesive. But the trick is not to let the thinner run onto the wrap.
In theory…
But test a bit first!!
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KAPA do a similar one, its not a corrugated core but an expanded foam type.
Very lightweight yet quite tough.
Amari do it
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DOCTORS SURGERY – We need a brass plaque removing urgently please
US – Well OK we can get up there this afternoon, which one would you like us to remove?
DOCTORS SURGERY – The one that says ‘Dr Harold Shipman’
😮 😮 😮
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Anchor magnets or Bisbell Products will both be able to help
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thanks James
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quote Tim Cowlishaw:just out of interest Can you not wrap them?
Have you ever tried wrapping a post? You have to have the patience of a saint. Anyone can wrap about a 12" test piece, but you try doing a 2.5m length.
Give it a go 😀
mod-edit
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Your LED supplier should be able to provide you with density guidelines.
It all depends on the distance between LED and face of sign.
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Signfab – nuff said!!!
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Did anyone ever try this stuff, if so how did you find it?
thanks
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I have used 2 sagetech ones in the past and they were both a bit ‘mickey mouse’. Bit fiddly to use especially when you go from cross cut to vertical.
Neither of them ever cut square.
If i had a choice again I would buy a second hand quality machine like the one above.cheers
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I think its still being sold by ‘signbox’
http://www.signbox.co.uk/interior/modular_sign_system
hope that helps
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Its by HB signs,
Its their own modular system.
They are not an easy company to deal with, last time I tried they wouldnt work with signmakers only direct with the end user.
But they may have changed in the recent tough times!!
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if a customer leaves a transit van parked on the road around the corner, make sure it is not next to a nearly identical van and also make sure your staff apply the graphics to the correct one!! 😣
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There is a company in Denton, Manchester called Plastic Formers.
http://www.plasticformers.co.uk
should be able to help you.
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we probably only do about 25% with R.H. now, there were issues with every other order, damaged sheet edges, basic vinyls out of stock, wrong items sent.
Also when they sent a wrong item and didnt collect it, it showed as outstanding on our account which they then put on stop!
Amari stepped in for us and have had a good service since and spandex for the vinyls are much more ‘flexible’ on their pricing these days.
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The links to the images for the totem signs show standard post and cage fixings. Although on the surface it looks like 4 bolts, the threaded bar is welded to a cage (or grillage) about 600 x 600 x 600mm which is set into the concrete foundation.
Another option for removeable signs is to put sleeves in the ground in concrete and slide the posts into them (about 600mm). The signs can then be removed at a later date and re-used
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thanks guys
Thought about laminating onto another vinyl, but the normal vinyl was coming off as well.
If it happens again, might have to buy some ‘nano cleaner’
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quote Jason Bagladi:The Permit to Work should be issued by the company you are doing the work for. They should verify that the content of the RA/MS is correct and you have the correct competencies and certified training to do the work in a controlled and safe manner.
Agree with above, permits to work at height are issued by the site Main Contractor after site induction and assesment of RAMS
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if its the thin PVC stuff ie. less than 1mm, it will have to be stored flat really, it tends to sag and end up with a curve in it over time.
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You can also buy white coated steel sheet, if you mount the print onto this and then bond it to foamex or ACM then it will also have the possibility of being a magnetic dry wipe board.
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You can still use pantone colours for printing to a CMYK printer.
Just make sure you have the correct pallete loaded, you need the one in the process colours directory.
The one under spot colours will give different colours whenn output to CMYK -
you are also going to have to modify the letters to stand far enough off to prevent ‘spotting’ from the leds.
The example you have shown seems to have extra long fixings.
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Its called ‘springflex’, surprise surprise!!
If its a big one you will need something to pull the springs off and on, your fingers start to hurt after about 20 or so.
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Problem is the brass will weather and go dark, they cant be cleaned with vinyl letters on, so when you go back to change a name there will be a tarnished image where the lettering was, so you will have to polish the plate which will make it a different colour to the others.
Brass will tarnish, inside or outside and the only way to letter it and be able to polish it is engraving.
We had some nice effects with reverse lettered clear acrylic and backed up with gold mirror vinyl.
I would also add Engravamet to your list of possible suppliers.
cheers
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we used to get a product from Leyland Paints, not sure if it was terabine or not, small bottle with a purple tint, we used it when it was particularly cold, I think it was a called ‘dryers’ or similar.
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yes they look like a solid st/st letter with a backtray (probably clear) so the chances are they will have neon inside that is probably why they are so deep (minimum 100mm for neon with a return bend at each end)
If you look closely you will see the fixings on the side, just choose an easy letter and take one off. (isolate first of course) -
unless you have permission from the company to recreate their logo, you have no rights to do so at all.
But having said that, are they going to be bothered to track you down over a job that cost a few quid and especially if it is promoting them.
Legally its a no no, but if you put it to a vote I bet every signmaker on here has recreated a logo without permission at sometime in their illustrious careers. -
you might want to check the weight of the panels and the loading they will put on the cladding. They are not designed to take anything heavy. You will find they are only designed to take approx 5kg/m2 and that includes the weight of the cladding.
Try to fix to an upright support behind the cladding if possible. They are usually fitted with ‘Z’ beams which are much more substantial. -
thanks for the replies, I think we will definitely try the soapy water method (although sceptical I will wait to be proved wrong).
In this very litigious world you have to show you are doing the right thing..!! -
I did do a search and neither of those threads turned up 😕
I’m particularly interested at the moment because we have just had our hands smacked (very hard actually) for using a solvent in an office environment. My fitter took it upon himself to use it as it was taking too long using the normal method and created a Riddor with 2 of the office workers.
I think I will look at a specific adhesive remover, but everyone seems to have different opinions. -
for small orders can you not buy through a local distributor, I know Robert Horne (should) stock direx. Maybe there are others.
£25-30 delivery on an illuminated box is not bad though. -
Traybond – 0161 678 8777
cheapest I have found so far
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you would only want to print onto clear if it is going onto a white background. The inks are transparent and will change colour if applied to a coloured background.
Best to print on white where possible. -
the cellulose may attack the surface of the dibond if left on too long.
Can you not use grey back vinyl and overlaminate them? -
spandex – trans tec ultra destructable film
bloody good stuff..!!!
edit – sorry just read the title, this is only available in white
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Are you speaking to the right person?
You need to speak to the Highways Officer for that area. They should be prepared to meet you on site and discuss jobs without any charge, its their job.
Normal charges are inline with scaffold permit costs, we had 4m of pavement covered in scaffolding for a week with a pedestrian tunnel and the council only charged £112+vat for the permit.
Also some councils will allow you to do the work on a ‘temporary’ which means if it is under 4 hours and you use proper pedestrian management, cones, barriers and make sure there is enough walkway width then you don’t need a permit.
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Interesting story which has some similarities to this thread (apart from the goblins)
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/7412671.stm
I love the expression ‘To a goblin the rightful and true master of any object is the maker, not the purchaser’
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quote John Childs:Who is the copyright holder for the Homeserve logo? We would like the think that Homeserve are, but how can we know that for sure?
Any half decent design agency would sell a licence to use the logo for a period of time, and not sell the copyright outright. If the product then goes on to become a major brand name and multi-million pound outfit then the design agency has a second bite at the cherry. Its a bit like royalties.
Copyright is automatically associated with the originator, putting a copyright mark and date etc is just marking the time and date, if you can prove in another way you created it at a certain time (job sheets, invoices etc) then there is no real need.
……. unless of course you are giving your drawings away!
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the initial post was that someone had been asked to produce a sign from someone else’ sketch. In 99% of these cases (and I have seen plenty) you can be pretty sure that no money has changed hands therefore the copyright ownership is automatically placed with the creator of the design.
If someone then goes on to pay for the sign and design with the copyright holder then it would come down to terms and conditions of sale about who owns it or has a right to use it.
Just as a point of interest if you ‘buy’ software you do not ‘own’ it. When you purchase it there will be something pointing to some extremely fine small print which says by paying a fee you are allowed to use it but the software content is still theirs and they can ask for it back at any time..!!
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Copyright always remains with the original creator, even if a charge is made, its the same with software and other such ‘creative’ activities. The payment area only allows the user to use design with the originators permission.
With regard to logo’s, if someone wants to protect it then they have it registered as a trademark.
With regard to the problem in hand, why don’t you put in a bit extra for the design and then once the job is done offer some money to the other company to cover their loss. Pick up the phone and speak to them, i’m sure were all a friendly bunch really. -
quote Peter Dee:Thanks for your comments. Rich, it’s already white so I will scurf it and apply some ESP then paint over.
your mind reading tricks will not work on me young jedi……
sorry had to say that, whats ESP?
its obviously not Extra Sensory Perception then. -
quote Peter Normington:quote Karl Williams:Don’t the plods use 3m diamond vinyl or honeycomb?
Karl, the police use diamond grade, as all the emergency services do,
next time you see a police car, or an ambulance though, take a closer look, the yellow/flourescent is not diamond grade, if it is the second colour is not, if you understand what I mean.Peter
I believe that there is now a flourescent yellow class 1 (diamond) grade vinyl. I saw an ambulance the other day and had a closer look. So effectively the whole vehicle was reflective.
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there isn’t a mother of pearl acrylic, you will probably have to bond a laminate onto a base material. Formica do a MOP laminate in one of their ranges but it would only be suitable for interior.
Alternatively I’m sure there is a vinyl that you could laminate onto a base material as well, but the depth of effect is much better with the formica. -
signconex are the people you need
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whatever you do don’t reply. Even if its a joke or a mickey take. Once they know the email address is live your spam will go through the roof. I have had to close 2 email addresses because staff replied in jest to them.
Generally they will try to overpay you ‘by mistake’ in advance and then ask you to wire the overpaid money to them by western union. Then later you find the card has been stolen. I don’t quite understand how they do that last bit. -
definitely contact the other company, they may want to put a bill in for the design, unless they already have done of course in which case he is entitled to use them.
I think you should speak to them anyway just to check, its good for inter-company relations. -
Early foamex materials were only designed for interior use and had no U/V stability, if used outside they went brittle. Modern foamex is a lot more U/V stable but is still only recommended for interior use by the manufacturers. For exterior use they recommend gloss faced pvc.
However I can buy aluminium composite for the same price as gloss pvc so for me its a ‘no brainer’.
If you are still in doubt, speak to your supplier. -
quote Karl Williams:You have to introduce yourself first mate in the hello forum. then we might just be nice and help you! 😀 😀
I must have missed that one in the board rules??
Jon, you have to find out who the land belongs to first and get the permission of land owner. Even if your customer says it will be OK, I would double check because ultimately you will be trespassing and damaging their land by digging holes in it. If there are other signs from other companies on there then there may be a precedent but permission will still be required.
With regard to sizing it will all be down to your local council. The main details you need are advertising and planning consent and I think your town planning dept will have a copy of this. It would be worth getting a copy and giving it a read.
Thats the legal basis anyway – the reality is that most people will stick a sign up similar to ones that are already there and not seek permission from anyone. On an industrial estate you stand more chance of getting away with it especially if there are other signs there. But if yours is the only one on the grass verge then I’m pretty certain it will be ordered to be removed or removed for you pretty sharpish. -
quote Peter Dee:So I was right to comment then?
yes – its a discussion forum and as Gavin said you wrote a balanced post detailing your experience.
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Completely agree with the orginal post. Ashby are great for off the shelf things, straight from their catalogue etc. but go outside these parameters onto custom work and they seem to fall apart somewhat. But I dont think that is only Ashby I think that is industry wide, no-one wants custom work, they want to sell you off the shelf products. In my experience custom work is better subbed to local contractors where you can ‘see’ your work in progress and deal with any problems that crop up more easily.
As for your ‘problem’ Peter, I know how you feel, sometimes you just have to get stuff off your chest..!! 😀 -
I believe i-spi in Scotland do an imported flame polisher at a reasonable price.
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quote Peter Normington:usually braised not soldered I think,
Peter
You have to solder them on, anything hotter and it tarnishes the face. We do our own.
To remove them I would use a long piece of steel angle bar (about 1000mm) put one edge under the letter and lever it off the wall gently, depending on the type of resin used they may come out easily or not. You will have to watch for them pulling a brick out, if the mortar is not up to much though.
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quote Dave Harrison:I might have just been unlucky but so far I have found “Centre Managers” to be little men with something to prove, taking great pleasure from showing how much power they have in their little worlds. . .
I know exactly what you mean, but in certain circumstances if he allowed work to be done without the correct paperwork he could be prosecuted and (god forbid) an accident resulted in a death then he would be up for manslaughter. Its exactly the same for site foremen, they carry exactly the same level of responsibility on a building site.
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We did some for an exhibition a few years ago, the only way we managed it in the end was to rust a mild steel plate with acid and water, completely dry it out in an oven, then spray with a clear lacquer to prevent further rusting. But the spraying must be the last thing to do after all the drilling and assembling.
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the edges will be the problem, no matter how many coats you put on it just soaks up the paint and looks awful.
We have had some success with PVA glue, painted onto the edges neat before spraying and also cellulose thinners put onto a rag and wipe the edges, which melts the plastic slightly, but you have to be careful not to let the rag touch the face of the letters.
And if you spray them, stand them up and spray them vertically, there is less chance of dust settling on them. -
Warren,
there is nothing wrong with working alone, so long as you have lone working procedures.
When one of my lads is lone working, ie. not in a public area but isolated, then we have an agreement that he rings in every 30mins, if he doesn’t then we ring him if he doesn’t answer then we call the emergency services or site contact and pass on the details where he is working.If he is then found in MacDonalds down the street with his phone swithched off, he is for the high jump..!!! 😀
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quote Macky D:I’ve never been asked about fire rating though – but I guess Forrex / acrylic / sign vinyl should be OK as looking at the specs they are listed as “self extinguishing”?
Macky
Absolutely not, acrylic is one of the most flammable plastics around, not only does it burn but it then drips and the drips don’t extinguish they carry on burning, class 0 rated materials are polycarbonate, aluminium and dibond, some foamex types do fall in to class 1, but most have a continental ‘M’ rating and there is no direct comparison.
Even though it has not been specified by the customer, I can pretty much guarantee that if he checks his lease/contract it will specify class 1 or 0 signage and sometimes shop fittings in and around the public walkway areas have to be the same. It s all to do with Fire Escape routes and keeping them as safe as possible.
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you will also have to check what type of sign the centre will allow, usually it is down to a fire rating, class 1 or sometimes even class 0, it will be specified in their fire risk assesment. Both of these pretty much rule out acrylic and foamex.
edit: sorry just read the OP, this only about installation. So my comment maybe a little O/T.
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or you could try trounce
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Gravograph sells it for engraving laminates, not sure if it will accept 3mm though. There is also a company in the north east Engraving Materials, they sell it also.
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Thanks guys, mine was none of those but I will give them a ring anyway.
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thanks for the replies
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Thanks Peter, but the only problem is the site is 45 mins away and I cant see my lads being able to make one on site. It would be more cost effective if I can buy one.
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The bronze can be aged by dipping in very hot oil, last time we had this done it was a place in Birmingham, I think Engravamet will know who does this.
The plate needs to be at least 2.0/3.0mm thick because the heat will warp 1.5mm thick. -
You ask 2 signmakers the same question and you will get 3 different answers. There are so many factors here I think you need to do a bit more research, check previous posts, look at adverts, see whats on offer, then come back and ask questions such as ‘What is this machine like’ and ‘Is it suitable for such and such’
The only bit of advice I can give you is spend as much as you can afford on a reliable machine. If they go wrong and you haven’t got a warranty or service contract then they can be horrendously expensive to repair. 1 print head on my machine is £1200+vat fitted and I have 12 of them..!! -
It all depends on how you pay your VAT, I dont know the ins and outs exactly of the accounting system, but if you issue a pro-forma you are not liable to pay the vat until it has been paid and a full invoice issued.
So you could issue a pro-forma in February for work to be done in March and your vat would not be due until the end of march. If you issue an invoice in February for work to be done in March then the VAT is due at the end of February.
This is common throughout the building industry, you are not allowed to issue an invoice to them until they have paid you. You have to send them a ‘notification of payment’, they pay you then you send your invoice for the payment. Its all about delaying the VAT payment.
Clear as mud..!! -
quote DNN Signs:Hi peter I thought the slide on method would allow for some expansion and I could still fit 4 rails.
Neil
The good thing about dibond is that the expansion co-efficient is negligible. The last time I worked it out, over a 16′ sign I think it worked out to just under 2.0mm.
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quote David Rogers:quote signsurfer:3M recommend most surfaces are abraded where possible before application of any VHB tape.
I would give it a light scuffing with wet and dry then clean it with iso.Sanding polished granite – think the owners might say something!
I was referring to Myles’ question about keying the foamex, not the granite, also the key point is ‘where possible’…
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3M recommend most surfaces are abraded where possible before application of any VHB tape.
I would give it a light scuffing with wet and dry then clean it with iso.
My main advice is to watch the temperature when applying, if its not warm enough or a sharp dip in temp is forecast then don’t bother, you will only be back the next month to re-fix them on again. Also apply the tape in vertical strips, this ensures that any water that runs down the back does not collect on top of the tape. -
quote martin:You could always try ringing Edward Mathias if you have a spare couple of hours. I know the guy told me about a substrate that people used to make stencils and they may also know which of their customers do this.
classic…!!!
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quote Marcella:Just called ASD ………… they don’t do signposts apparently but may be able to source them. Going to call me back.
But the guy says, ‘what’s your name please’ I say ‘Marcella’ he says ‘ Oh lovely name ………… but is it your first name or your last name?’ 😕 :lol1:cant understand that.
I buy all my posts from them, they even do them black as a special for me, their website shows they do 50, 60, 76, 89 and 114mm in grey and mill finish.
Maybe he just wanted to get off home..!!
it’s their loss I suppose.
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ASD metals are usually pretty good
http://www.asdmetalservices.co.uk/
go to the aluminium and stainless section, you will find a sign components section, 114mm posts are in there.
tried to do a link thingy but it wouldn’t work for some reason??
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It all depends on your client base really. If you deal with large building companies or Blue chip types then yes it is essential.
If you are doing shop fronts mostly then I would say not, however councils are supposed to be clamping down if you work off a pavement but we have never been questioned.
If you can afford it then do them, in a few years I think it will be mandatory, thats the way the industry is going.
But to be honest the course we did was a farce, we may have well just payed the money and they sent us a card and certificate, the instructor pretty much gave us the answers to the exam. -
quote Steve Underhill:Who uses thermalite on external walls????
Certainly nobody I know, they are all concrete 9″ blocks.
Thermalite on an external wall wouldnt last 5 minutes you can pick them apart with your hands. 😮They are rendered or faced over, see the Hanson website for more details.
But we are getting off topic, save it for another thread.
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quote Steve Underhill:quote :You cant use Rawlbolts any more on new construction buildings because the newer bricks have hollow ‘frogs’ (holes through them) to reduce weight and there is nothing for the bolt to grip to, or it just splits the brick.
Unless of course its a block building, not that many new buildings are made from bricks round here, all 9″ blocks.
Only concrete block, rawlbolts are not rated for ‘thermalite’ blocks as used in the majority of construction these days.
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quote James Martin:whats a chemical anchor?
you drill a 12mm approx hole about 50mm deep, clean out the dust and half fill the hole with a special 2 part resin, you then push a threaded rod, approx 6-8 mm dia and 70mm long into the hole. As the resin cures it expands and sets like rock inside the hole, only takes about 6-8 mins depending on the temperature, you then have a 20mm threaded projection to fit a nut and washer to.
Hilti are the masters at it and we use their ‘HIT’ system, but they are very expensive, there are other manufacturers at reasonable costs. -
Once the sign is fitted to your customers premises it is part of their building and covered on their insurance, it is their responsibility to maintain it in good condition, as they have done by calling you out to fix it.
As a sign maker it is your responsibility to fix a sign securely to cover most weather conditions unless you have written a disclaimer into the contract.
If the sign caused damage or injury the first port of call would be the building insurance, if the insurance surveyor feels the sign has been incorrectly fitted then they would come after you/your insurance for compensation.
If the installation was deemed dangerous then the HSA would be involved and a prosecution could arise from this.
The pivotal point is ‘Extreme Weather’, I would say if the Met office had issued a weather warning then this would be sufficient to negate most claims.
You have to weigh up your customer relationship, is there more work on offer or is it just a one off, do you want this customer to recommend you to others.
Personally I couldn’t sleep at night if I knew that signs had been poorly fitted because ‘we didn’t have the right screws’ or ‘time was running short’, plus I think it is bad economics to think like that. But unfortunately some signmakers do and it reflects on us all.
I’m sure we all have horror stories about signs we have visited to replace or re-fix and wonder how they have stayed up for so long and not killed anyone in the process.
I always find that projecting signs on corner buildings cause the most problems, I think the wind curls round the corner and buffets the signs, sometimes to destruction..!!
For what its worth the only way we fix projecting signs is with chemical anchors, they are not too expensive now and are well worth the money. You cant use Rawlbolts any more on new construction buildings because the newer bricks have hollow ‘frogs’ (holes through them) to reduce weight and there is nothing for the bolt to grip to, or it just splits the brick. -
I think that all the talk of a ‘housing crash’ and the share prices falling makes people hold on to the money and maybe some of the projects they were going to do get put on the backburner. I don’t like the talk but I think at the moment its unavoidable
Personally I think it will be a very tight financial year, it wont be like it was in the early 90’s but its been coming and it is the wise operator that heeds the warning and is prepared. -
definitely the coated colours, the bridging book is a cross reference between CMYK and pantone colours.
BTW if you see a pantone ref like 495C the ‘c’ means coated or put it another way, gloss.
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We used to have trouble with people parking and blocking our gate, despite huge signs.
What we had on stand by were vinyl letters pre-cut about 4" high saying ‘NO PARKING’, but the difference was, before they were weeded we ran them through the machine again but with a crosshatch pattern so it ran 150 vertical lines through it then 20-30 horizontal lines. It takes a bit of weeding but once they were stuck across the windscreen it would take someone about 2-3 hours to peel them off because it would come off in small bits.
If you can find his van I am sure you could think of a good message to put on it and if you crosshatch it first its going to take him a while to get it off. -
I would say the ‘proper’ way to do it would be to cut the lettering out of the etch, fit that to the window and then inlay the coloured vinyl into the etch. Its more work, but thats the only way to do it and achieve 100% results.
We sometimes cut the etch with a bigger outline so when you inlay the colours you get a slight clear gap around the edges, makes the text stand out more. -
we used to buy brown anodised panatrim direct from universal components. It was a ‘trendy’ colour at the time about 15 years ago, not sure if they still do it. Robert Horne will be a distributor I presume or you could ask them direct, they are based in Bristol.
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it was for a job i was looking at
http://www.corniche-uk.com/index2.asp?r … troduction
make sure you are sat down when they give you the price..!!
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follow up:-
apparently its a patented system called ‘SafeSign’, but I cant find any info on it.
I bet it wont be cheap..!! -
Thanks for the link Craig, its not quite what I wanted but it is an option.
Just to clarify its not foam pvc panels I require it is soft cushion foam covered in pvc banner material. -
you have to be careful which acrylic adhesive you choose, the heat some of them give off when curing can pass through the letter and dimple the face. I would test first and leave for 3-4 hours to see.
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