[Shane Drew]

Yeah mate, I was getting 5 a day (I have several email addresses)

I have blocked any referrence to rolex in my ‘block sender list’ so only a few slip thru now.

I am a Timex man myself. My Uncle had a Rolex tho, always wondered what he did for a living, now I know! 🙄

[Shane Drew]

Thanks Lee,

maths was not my best subject… or inglish… or speling… or …. I guess you get the pikture 🙄

oh… and Widget, it is always a good option to have the client check the spelling AND sign the artwork. Helps when the client finds a spelling error after the job is applied.

[Shane Drew]

Very nice Lee,

Clean lines, nice shape.

Take some money out of petty cash and shout yourself a beer. :2thumbs:

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

quote widget:

The customer did ask for it as large as possible he wanted everyone to see it so i just gave him what he asked for.
I printed a few designs on paper first but he chose the biggest one (maybe thought he would get his moneys worth)

Customers are the same the world over 🙄

[Shane Drew]

I’d have charged $au800 here. Thats about 250 quid in your money Io think.

cheers

[Shane Drew]

Well done Widget.

Jills advice is very good.
Having seen some of her posts here, she is really very good at what she does.

I appreciate that the client probably had a say in the layup.
Most, from experience, don’t give much thought to how you do it, just as long as everything they want is on the van.

For my money, and along with what jill had to say, I would not have stretched the fonts, not making the company name so tall.

The secret to a good sign is sometimes NOT using all the space.
You usually need some ‘negative’ or unsigned space on a large sign, to give it better impact.
I would not have gone the the very edge of the rear doors, for instance. Negative space here would have been a better option, even if it were only about 40mm.

If it is too hard to read, then people will obviously not read it, defeating the purpose of the signage.

Having said that, my first sign many years ago was probably along the same lines as yours.

From my own experience, look at your opposition, and how they lay up a sign, examine it, ask yourself if you like it or not, then examine why you came to that conclusion.
Over time, you’ll define what styles you like, and what you don’t.
Never be afraid of trying something different. Experiment with shadows and colours etc….

One more thing. One design rule you should never tamper with; NEVER use a sign with all capital script text.

Keep up the good work, and always learn from your last job. It has been my basic rule since I started, seems to have worked for me so far.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

Hi Stuart5,

I agree with Rodney. There is no point to contour cutting the paper.

I have just done 2000 decals on my soljet sc540. I cut the shape within a rectangle. Once I weeded out the shape within the rectancle, I then used the box created by the weeding, to use a knife and ruler to cut the decals into rectangles.

They were all the same size, packed neatly, and the client was happy.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

In australia, every state except western australia and queensland put their clock forward 1 hour.

cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

Well done Big G and Mort too!

You will look back after a few years and think……. what have I done with my life…. Na just kidding.

Been self employed for over 20 years now, some days are diamonds, some days are stone (hmmm I feel a song coming on..) but everyday is another day that no one will tell you what to do.

Unless you’re married of course, but that is another post :lol1:

Cheers
shane

[Shane Drew]

quote big G:

The questions that are missing: “What do you pay for materials? Answer: About twice as much as every other signmaker in the country”. “Why didn’t you just start a real sign business. A: Erm…………”

I have never understood why people become franchisees in a trade they don’t know.

There is always someone who wants a ready made business, and not have to do the hard yards. Sign-A-Rama from USA has set up shop here in australia, and they are very competative, but they often apply the wrong products for the job. One franchisee I know supplied metalic when the client wanted reflective.

Simply put, you can not buy experience. In have found that franchisees usually end up at the mercy of their staff, because they have to employ someone who has the know-how.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

Mke sure you paint the mdf really well, with a couple of coats of enamel, otherwise it will warp when it gets wet.

I would not use it myself, as the moisture will eventually get in thru the fixing points and swell.

Sorry to be so negative.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

quote Steve Thurlow:

quote :

My secret? Always use a new blade, and have a very light hand.

….And I was about to say NEVER use a new blade!!!

I’m talking about a Swan Morton 10A surgical blade, these little blighters will cut through vinyl & paintwork far to easily, if your a fan of the Swan Morton blade I would say make a few cuts on a scrap bit of vinyl to dull it before cutting on a vehicle.

Steve

Sorry Guys, I don’t know what a Swan Surgical Blade is. I am talking about the bog standard blades that have about 10 segments, that you can keep breaking off to get a new edge.

I have hand cut one off signs, 3 metres in length, on new buses, without damaging the paint work.

It really is easy once you get your head around it. :lol1:

[Shane Drew]

Nice job.

Cutting on the van is really rather easy once you have done it a couple of times.

I do a lot of fleet work, and hand cut large logos and letters all the time. My secret? Always use a new blade, and have a very light hand. You’ll know when to change the blade, when your hand presure is the same and the cuts are not coming away. You need a fresh edge to get a clean cut with light pressure. Never press on the blade to cut. A new blade egde will do it easily, without any pressure.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

Welcome Tony,

They are a very friendly helpful bunch here.

However, if I squint just a little, your avatar tho looks remarkably like my mother in law, after she has looked after my kids for an hour or so.

cheers 🙄

[Shane Drew]

Just checked

Oracal 7510. 2 Year Fluro. They are used on ambo’s in the UK and Europe.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

I think you’ll find that Oracal have a 2 year fluro that they use for ambulances here in Australia. Pretty sure Avery may have one too.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

nice work.

Interesting you do race cars.

Over here in OZ, Spandex has sold all the major teams their own sign software and cutters.

Used to do heaps of cars a few years back (V8 Supercars for Bathurst and Indy Cars for Gold Coast Indy) , now you only get the teams that have no money and want a great job at no expense.

I will not do them anymore.

Well done tho.

[Shane Drew]

John,

I agree with Stephen. I use Oracal exclusively, and have no problems at all.

I’d suggest the client probably used soap in the water to clean the glass and their is probably a build up. When you have hit it with water (never use soap in your water as it is a recipe for disaster) the soap build up will come in to play and act like you have sprayed soap on the glass yourself.

I always give the glass a real good going over with metho and water first. This will give you a squeaky clean surface. Except in a goverment job/building as it is against work place practise to use alcohol based products when working for the government here. (apparently it is to protect the workers incase they have a drinking problem…no joke)

I prefer to do any window job dry, but if you feel better doing it wet, just atomise the water on to the glass first.

I use the hinge method too. It is the safest way.

The only thing I did differently to Stephen is that I wet the app tape. I use R tape and it does not go soggy like transferite and some others.

Hope things improve for you in the application.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

Shy! with a cute avatar photo like that…. surely not 😀

[Shane Drew]

welcome, from sunny queensland. :lol1:

[Shane Drew]

Well Done.

The law may be different over there, but here, to advertise that you reproduce registered logo’s and trademarks is courting danger.

I used to produce all the japanese style logos and export them to a retailer overseas, (a former client here) and I got a legal letter stating that I should stop or face a legal challenge.

Some companies don’t like the fact that you are making money from their logo’s. It may be worth getting some advice from your local solicitors on the matter. In Australia it can be challenged, and even if they don’t win, it could cost a fortune to defend.

Just a thought, Good informative site tho.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

My Wide Brim hat for those 38 deg c days in the summer sun, my dark sunnies for that bright Queensland sunshine, ….

and my 3m squeegee

….. and my knife
…. and my tape measure
… my red chinagraph pencil
… my white chinagraph pencil
… my 6inch steel ruler
… my mobile phone

blimey, my whole van I’d say!

[Shane Drew]

Hi Buddy,

I worked from an office with no vehicle access for 12 months. As Carrie states, bad weather is a problem, and I was forever cancelling work when it rained. Moved into a new factory with room for 2 cars under cover, and I have never regretted it for a minute, although the expense was higher.

I started chasing vehicle work when I moved, which has increased my income. Without the shed, I always shied away from vehicles in the bad weather months. Lost a lot of credabilty with some clients back then.

Hope it works out for you whatever you decide.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

Hi Mate,

You can not go past Easy Office here http://www.e-press.com/downloads/index.html

It does database, word pro, spreadsheet, sends emails and saves as doc and txt files and its FREE! My favourite 4 letter word!

I use it all the time, and have upgraded to the professional (paid) version, but I used the free version for many years.

I don’t think there is a better free suite on the net, and it is very easy to learn quickly.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

You can try http://www.istockphoto.com/ , a community photo site from 50c ea, or http://www.dreamstime.com/ , another site from $1

http://www.absolutvision.com/gallery/index.php may be able to help, but they are a bit dearer.

Hope these help

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

Thanks BC

The bat is from the Beeline disc.

cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

I agree. Frustrates the hell out of me when the customer makes changes to artwork that look worse than your own advice. But then, they have the money. I just leave my name off the sign so no one can blame me!

nice work tho.

[Shane Drew]

Dont lay colour over colour on vinyl translucent. Each colour must go on a white base. You should leave a 1mm overlap on the sign to avoid it pulling away and leaving a white edge.

I do a lot of translucent work, and the effects can be very good. but it is all in the preparation, and use good quality translucent for the better colour clarity.

Love to see a picture.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

Me again, now it is getting late, but I thought the bat theme could go something like this 😛 😳

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[Shane Drew]

This is my logo as an example of the bat thought! 🙄

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[Shane Drew]

Some great ideas here.

I don’t blame you on the holy cow name in retrospect. It was midnight here when I came up with that brain storm. Needless to say that I don’t think well when I am tired. Forgive me.

I love the cartoon style logos that have been done. I think Stevo has some good ideas. Your right to include a graphic. If you are in a farming community, cows probably relate well.

I use a mouse as my logo. It is a play on words.

With wrapping in mind, have you thought of a bat? the way it wraps itself up with its wings. Stay with me people, it is getting late here, but I am hoping my brain is still in reasonable shape at this hour.

Shoot me down in flames if you like. I can take it. I am married after all!

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

Call me thick, but what does the name ‘blue cow’ stand for?

I mean, I have nothing against the name in general, but will it confuse the public, the relationship to blue cows and vehicle wraps?

If you must go with the cow, it needs to be on grass or a base of some sort, otherwise it looks like some sort of hot air balloon!!

Have you thought of changing it to:
Holy Cow!
Vehicle Wrapping.

It was just a thought… sorry!

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[Shane Drew]

Yes Rob, it is a pretty good marketing tool. Spandex are not as active as 3M here, but both use the same approach as you have stated.

General Motors Holden in OZ often donate a new car to the schools here that have driving programs for their senior students. Statistic show that the greater majority of school leavers will buy the same make of car they are taught on.

In a marketing sense, I do the same thing. If I am in the running for a contract, I’ll offer to do the first job for free (depending on a lot of variables of course), and most companies will take up the offer. In nearly every case, I’ll get a second chance when another job comes up with the client. It works well for me. I have not actively advertised for business since 1996. To keep the client satisfied, I then donate signs at regular intervals. The clients see this as a genuine saving, as it extends their advertising budget, and the person I’m dealing with looks good to his superiors. (To my bigger clients, I have even shouted their staff smoko. I might buy a some cakes, and make sure I call in around smoko time. I never tell them I’m going to do it, but just call in. It has proved a very successful marketing tool for me. Then, the staff remember me when someone they know is looking for a sign, and the jobs roll in from their referrals)

3M have been the ‘masters’ of this style of marketing, developing very good relationships with designers and architects. Oracal in Qld are more focused on the sign shop, than the designer/architects.

To get you to try the Oracal product, and if they believe you will support them, they will give you material for free to start you off.

Oracal Qld for instance, gave me all the material I needed to sign my vehicle. 3M scoffed at the offer. Oracal Qld showed condfidence in me, and they are now my major supplier. It was well worth their investment of free stock.

In reference to another post here, I too would be happier to pay extra for 3M than use MACTAC. I am not that fussed on the material, but I dislike the distributor even worse.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

Rob, I don’t know about Micky, but in australia we have a lot of interior designers that specify a brand. 3M brand is by far the prefered choice amongst design companies in most companies here, especially the multi nationals that have corporate links to the USA.

shane

[Shane Drew]

Kevin, did you laminate the print before you applied it, or is the solvent print satisfactory without lamination in this situation?

I usually do POS and internal stuff but have need to do a semi wrap for a long term client.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

love it. :wow:

[Shane Drew]

quote Robert Lambie:

😮 oh did i say i didnt mean it? 😉
yeh bits of grissle is what it is.. cut myself a lovely 5mm diametre hole in one side and out the other… comes in real handy for sticking my pencil through :lol1:

right about now I’m wishing I had not just eaten my tea before I read this comment….

I stabbed myself under my arm pit the other day. Does that qualify for some uksignboards sympathy?

Put my blade on my pocket, but forgot to retract the blade. Next thing, blood everywhere! Then there was screaming, crying, babbling and calls for a bucket. After a stiff drink I calmed down tho….. :lol1:

[Shane Drew]

Yeah steve, problem is, with all this sun, a few fosters, and few prawns, by the time you have consumed all that, the last thing you want to do is strip vinyl 😎

My experience is that the steamer is quicker!!

Cheers *drink*

[Shane Drew]

Cline,

Had exactly the same pronblem on my soljet last week. 3 attempts to print, and it stopped at the 1200mm mark.

Very stressful.

I tried everything. Found it worked when I exported it as a smaller jpg file instead of a larger eps file. After some detective work, I found that my hard drive was getting low on space (I have a hard drive just for my colorrip files). I deleted all the old files I no longer needed, and it has not failed since. I have reprinted the original file, in the original eps format, and it went thru without any problems. Wasted heaps of material, but at least I have some peace of mind.

Now I delete all my old files regularily to keep disk space at a premium.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

Dtg,

The steam is not blistering hot. A wallpaper steamer relies on the hood spreading the heat and moisture, so it is not a direct-on-the-paint-paint-stripping-type-of-pressure, but a gentle heating action that softens the vinyl.

I’ve been using a steamer for 12 years, never done damage to the paint on any vehicle.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

remind me never to upset you Carrie! :lol1:

[Shane Drew]

I’ve had this happen too. The 1st thing I do is stop immediately and ring the client. Explain what has been found, and ask them to come and look at it before I proceed. That way, they still see the stripe on the vehicle, the mess that is made, and the ding.

Dealers do this all the time, cover damage with graphics or stripes.

When doing a quote, and the client wants the graphics/stripe removed in the process, ask if they had the graphic/stripe fitted, or if the dealer had done it. If they didn’t request the grapghic, assume that it is covering something.

If you are going to take before and after shots, make sure they are at the same angle. I’ve had clients not accept the photos because the background is ‘different’ and they argue that the vehicle is not is the same place for each shot, claiming that the damage was done when the vehicle was moved.

As I say, get the client to look at the damage the minute it is found. Don’t go any further, as some people take whatever opportunity they can not to pay. Like Rob, I have been caught once, but never again.
Cheers

[Shane Drew]

I use a wall paper steamer (remover) Works a treat. I do a lot od work in the transport industry, and when you have to strip a bus down before resigning, the wall paper striper is the only thing to use, and of course, if you can get someone else to do it, all the better….

… those digits do look nasty tho.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

You guys can not be serious 😮 . How do you make a living with that!

I am presuming the Real Estate must supply the board over there, already signed?

There is no money in that. We charge anywhere from $100 to $150 to produce, install and remove a for sale sign for a 48 hour turn around in most cases. The signs include photos too. The flute costs me more than you guys get.

The money you guys are talking is unbeleiveable. Things must be a lot different over there than here.

I’ll never complain about my small margins again.. 🙄

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

Gooday Pete,

I do a lot of real estate work.

A standard sign here is 600x900mm. I use 5mm corflute because it lasts longer. I also use fPVC if it is going in a flash or expensive area.

I usually frame it with timber, with legs 200 or 300mm longer than the sign.

The client pays for the sign, I always own the frame.

The client rings me when the property is sold, and I collect the sign in the price originally quoted. That way I tell them it is a free removal, and it ensures I usually get my frame back. You will have to allow for some frames to be stolen (about 20%), so they can not be too dear to make. Always paint the frames as they last longer, and look more expensive. I usually make a batch at a time.

Cost wise, you’re on your own, me being in Oz and all.

Finally, you’ll need to find the legal size that your local authority allows. Councils in Australia universally only allow 600×900 signs without needing permission. We also use 1200×1800 signs, and although they are technically illegal, the councils tolerate them until a member of the public complains, then they must be removed.

Support of the frame is simply with star pickets. They are cheap and quick to install. Your council may have a ruling on this too, as some areas or developments have a building code that covers this style of temporary sign as well.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

Electrostatic cling film is the best answer. As long as the surface is clean and polished, they should work well for tempory signage.

Glass or painted steel is no problem.

From what I know tho, It only comes about 1500mm wide. May be wrong tho. Should be able to digitally print directly to the surface too.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

I think that is about $au1000.00 here. Not much for 3 days work in truth.

I live in an area that is considered a lower income suburb, and I would be lucky to get anyone to spend this kind of money too. Most of my work is in tourism sectors, so I work mostly in the more afluent cities.

Having said that, $500 a day, including material, would be the least I would want to earn. I travel, on average, 100km a day, and with fuel at $1.10 per litre, it has to be worthwhile.

It is difficult. Everyone one wants the best job, using the best materials, at a rock bottom price. Seems it is a crime to make a profit.

Thanks for your reply

[Shane Drew]

Yeah Rob, had an employee that sat a timber sign on the table top and proceeded to hammer in some nails. I think the third hit with the hammer shattered the glass in a million pieces. It was at that same point I realised that the glass guy had charged me for safety glass, but delivered normal glass.

It was just after that I discovered the glass guy had gone broke.

Was not a good week 🙁

[Shane Drew]

Hi friends,

I use a glass top on my 3600mm x 1200mm table.

Lasts for years. My present top is 6 years old and has heaps of life left yet.

Get the edges polished, use saftey glass and you’ll have no problems.

One of my tables I cut a hole under the glass and put a fluro light for layered work. Works a treat.

Only thing to remember is that you need to keep using a good blade, as a blunt one will scratch the glass.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

Hi Steve,

Mongrel Job that you have ahead of you.

Wax and grease remover is one of the best products, as robert said, most car accessories stores sell it, or paint suppliers stock it also. It is cheap by the drum, and you’ll use heaps of it.

Another product that we use here is based on oranges. It is excellent for this style of work. It is called break up and a description can be found here http://www.cyndan.com.au/products.php?page=prodalph

It is made here in OZ, but I think they have distributors in other parts of the world. Certainly worth an enquiry. I have been usung it for years, striping glue from buses, trucks and glass.

Otherwise, wax and grease remover is my next choice.

The problem with fuel is that it can become impregnated in the vinyl, and it can also cause the side to fail.

Sorry I can not be of more help. Personally, I’d be charging a high hourly rate, so as your client decides to do it 🙂

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

I use oracal 551 on most of my scaffold banners, as from experience, they have a short life anyway. Most end up getting damaged or stolen in the course of the job.

Banner vinyl is the proper choice tho, but here in OZ it is nearly twice the price of 551, and it is a pretty competative market (here anyway).

If I really want the job, I’ll give 2 prices and let the client decide. I’ll quote the 551 as a promotional grade, and the banner vinyl as a premium grade.

In nearly every case they will take the cheaper price because the budget is always tight.

That is my experience anyway.

I’d print them too, but you’ll have to clear coat them with liquid laminate (from TECHink or similar) and that will give them an extended life, but it adds to the cost of course.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

Well done! Looks very good. Brilliant idea.

Thanks for sharing this.

Shane

[Shane Drew]

Try http://www.salautodesign.com/

The woman that owns the company is Sharon, really switched on.

I am pretty sure they have long screens, don’t know if they are 4000mm tho.

Sal Auto supply kits to the auto and caravan industry, and do custom designs for ongoing orders.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

Do the pin stripes need to be in one length of 4000mm?

what is the average length of a panel? We get specialty lines screened here, with the average length being 2000mm. We can then use the panel joins as a break in the stripe. Does that make sense?

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

Welcome from Oz Pedro.

It is an amazing job you guys do, that do what you do… if that makes sense….

Look forward to seing more in the future.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

Had the very same thing yesterday. An interstate supplier sent me a sign that had to be fitted next day. It looked the same as your photos. I had to try something, so I applied it wet and although the fitting was slow, I overcame most of the problems.

With the one or two creases I had left, I hit them with a hot air gun, and they pulled tighter and looked much better.

I don’t know where they are going, but if it is outside, the heat will probably pull it more tighter over time.

I’d certainly explain what happened thoe, and explain that you will do you best to fix it. They are going to be discarded anyway, so it may be worth a shot. Cover yourself with glory if it works, or if it doesn’t work, at least you showed the supplier you were prepared to give it a go.

Just my 2 cents. All the best with whatever you decide.

Shane

[Shane Drew]

Sydney prices are pretty high compared to prices up here in Qld. During the Sydney Olympics in 2000, the greater majority of signs were actually done outside of Sydney, because the prices there are so high. I know of several large sign contracts that were done here, and shipped down for the games.

Overheads in Sydney are huge compared to Brisbane. I lived there for 20 years, 15 years ago, would never go back. The purchase price of a factory down there is easlily double what you would get one for here. Rents are really dear too. So that is reflected in the selling price of signs (and everything else)

The price for the van was part of a package, but I would normally have charged between $1500 and $2000. That includes design, and signage.

I signed this guys factory as well as his van, plus I supplied all his promotional signage for his Karts.

Someone eventually undercut me, and I don’t do his work anymore. Not that I am really worried as he took forever to pay his bill.

What would you have charged, if you don’t mind me asking?

[Shane Drew]

Great Work Jill,

Love the signgold product.

It is well over $100 per meter at 450mm here.

I was asked to do a boat rego for a wealthy businessman’s yacht some time back.

I told him to buy the material, and I’d cut it, which he did.

It cost him over $600 for 2 boat regos’ and a boat name. He didn’t even flinch. Was as nervous as hell cutting it though. Never had a customer want it since.

[Shane Drew]

I have had both at the same time, but my preference was the Graphtec. Had a few problems with the Summa, but none at all with the Graphtec.

As the summa got older I had tracking problems, but the graphtec at the same age was still as good as the day I bought it.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

I use both paper and clear everyday. The clear is far less forgiving though. Also most clear app tapes do not like wet applications.

You want the textured one over the smooth one from my experience.

They usually sell polytape as the cheap clear. This is really thin, and has a static problem. The anti static version is a bit better, but in my experience, the polytape is the worst of all of them. Transferite clear is the best, and I think R Tape have one out now that is pretty good.

From NZ, log on to http://www.salautodesign.com as they sell Avery and 3M into NZ from Australia, as well as app tapes. The owner is Sharon, and she is really switched on. She originally had her own sign shop, then got in to distribution as she knows what the industry needs, 1st hand. She can answer any questions you may have as a supplier, and she does some really good deals too.

[Shane Drew]

Welcome Andy, as you have probably worked out by now, they are a happy bunch here, a bit of a worry mind you, but a happy bunch nonetheless.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

Hang in there Ryan.

I will make you an offer if you wish to take me up on it.

As you are just over the water in New Zealand, if you are ever over here in Australia, or more precisely, Queensland, I’d be happy to give you hands on training for free.

The advice here on these boards is very good, by a lot of like minded professionals who have the same goals in mind, that is to help each other.

I had to teach myself too, which is too long a story, but I had very very few people that were willing to help me a decade or so ago.

Working on your own, use the hinge method with masking tape. For a beginner, this is the easiest step. Either wet or dry, this step is as good as having a second set of hands.

Definately, apply wet – but never apply wet to glass. It will make the job harder than you care to imagine.

The advice here of soap is good, but Spandex in NZ probably sell a ‘lube’ like they do here in OZ. It is better than soap because it is properly measured, and there is no thinking required, if you know what I mean. My preference is Oracal, and they also sell a ‘lube’ in a cencentrate form.

Dry is the ideal, but that will come in time and confidence.

One thing to remember is that some glues are water based (usually the cheaper grades), and some solvent based. You have temperature concerns in NZ which will alter the sticking characteristcs of using water based products, wet. It will take time to work these out, but by an large, a wet application is better for you to build up confidence in the process, before embarking on more difficult challenges.

I know the chances that you’ll be in Qld is probably remote, but I am happy to extend the offer if, and when, you want to take it up.

Cheers
Shane

[Shane Drew]

Having done a lot of race cars in my time, I’d go for the 6 month product, It should be cheaper then the 2 year product tho.

Oracal has a good product, that is the one I use.

Race cars usually have bingles and scraps all the time, and chances are you’ll be replacing the signs often, so a long term material will be a waste in most environments in the race car game. Thats my experience anyway.

Most of my clients are road racers, and I usually resign a race car at least twice in a normal race year.

In Fluro’s tho, the rule of thumb is that’ you get what you pay for’.

Sorry I could not be of more help.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

Wow, wash and wax for 3 pound! Thats 9 aussie dollars isn’t it? I paid 20 dollars the other day, thats a saving of 11 bucks, …. what’s his address….. :lol1:

[Shane Drew]

I am using the Duracoat Liquid Laminating system. Has its drawbacks with dust etc, but it is very good in terms of end result. Brilliant for laminating banners. Ideally, you need to do big runs to make the Duracoat economical, as once it is mixed with hardner, you have only got 16 hours to use it before it goes off.

I got rid of my old cold laminator because most of my work is promotional, and it was very temperamental.

The thing with cold laminators is that it has a higher degree of difficulty than printing and is a bit hard to master at times.

The better lamination films are thin, but the thinner films will stuff up easiest. Don’t skimp of the quality of a laminator either, and make sure they have crowned rollers, that is, they are not flat.

Apart from that, make sure you use the same type of laminate to the material you are printing on. ie, dont use a monomeric laminate on a polomeric film etc.

I agree with Rodney, get training. I would further advise to keep their number handy after they leave.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

Spandex in Australia sells them, have you tried them in your neck of the woods?

Shane

[Shane Drew]

I find the hardest thing about this job has always been the proof reading.

I have made some classic errors in the years I’ve been at the job, because as a designer of signs, you see the text so many times, and in your mind you know what it should say, you don’t tend to see any mistakes.

I did a job for a Gaming Room the other day.

I sent artwork, the client ok’d it. I printed it, my parents helped be laminate it, we installed it, with 12 people watching us put it up. The client, his boss, and about 10 other people stood back and admired my handywork. It looked really good.

Then an unemployed printer walked past and pointed out that it said Gamimg Room.

Talk about embarrassed! The client went off his nut (partly because he looked like a fool for approving it) and it cost me more money than the whole job was worth to replace it.

I’d like to say I learnt a lesson from that, but I am not too confident 😳

[Shane Drew]

Thanks everyone for your comments. I really appreciate that.

Yes Rob, it was, in a word, a nightmare (or is that two words?)

I am very proud of this job. The client had no logos, or anything, so I designed everything, even the slogan is my concept.

From wo to go took 3 days.

I laid the flag first, then stretched it into the crevices. I had the keyline cut out of the flag before I fitted it. The hard part was getting everything to line up so the text would be straight. That was about as much fun as pulling teeth! I would normally have laid the text first, then the flag and hand cut the keyline, but there was so much to cut, I was worried about being consistant.

The thin black line is actually 6mm stripe material. I originally had no line there, but it looked unfinished. Once the line was added, it looked better.

Mercedes Benz here in Australia were going to feature it in their calandar, that is why the Mercedes Logos are on each side. It was a request by them so it would look better in the calendar.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

Hi Sally,

When I sold my big sign shop, and started up again working from home, space was very limited. As well as doing vehicles signs, I concentrated on A Boards, Corflute builders signs, and magnetic signs.

These had the best profit margin (at the time) required no manufacturing, took up very little space, and most of the bigger shops were not interested in these ‘smaller’ jobs.

Worked really well for me at the time. Now I have moved to bigger premises (built a huge shed on my parents property) my work load is such, that the little jobs like that are really hard to find time to do… Go figure :cryhard:

[Shane Drew]

Try this site

http://www.istockphoto.com/

I have a montage of photos down both sides of my van

It is a communty phot site. Some photos are average, some are brilliant. And a 300pdi photo is $US1.50 ea.

Worth a look.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

Rodney is right. Couldn’t have said it better myself

Regards

[Shane Drew]

I use the Roland 1000mm Camm 1 but I have never heard of a sensor adaptor at all, sorry.

I’d imagine the accuracy would be in the software though. I have had my cutter for 6 or 7 years, and only ever replaced the rubber wheels on the grips.

Never had an ounce of trouble otherwise.

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

Phil, I get this same problem from time to time.

As far as the courier goes, ask your client did they ign the delivery docket. A signature on the docket is proof of delivery AND that it was received in good order.

I tell my clients that if they signed the docket, my hands are tied as I have no recourse with the carrier, It is then back in their court.

As far as the artwork goes, I only proceed with a job once the clients sign and return, either by fax or mail, the artwork proof.

I can then tell my client that I produced the approved artwork, so I have to view it as another job.

Finally, you do have to decide if you want to keep the client. Like you, I’d offer to do the job again at a reduced price. I usually offer it to the client at my ‘contract’ rate.

They sound like they have made an error to me, and are trying to get a new one at a 50% discount. I would be offering 25% max.

Be interested to know what happens

[Shane Drew]

Great idea, give it to the client to stick on. I like that. 😆

I will not do chrome at all any more. As basically said here, it is not worth the grief. It will ‘tunnel’ when left rolled up for too long, it scratches easily, it will not stretch and all the above.

When I did do it on a fleet of hearses some years ago, I always clear coated the final product.

I am interested that some say that it can be applied wet. The products I have ever used had water based adhesives. It is very hard to squeegee all the water out, and because it is polyester, the bubbles will not leech out over time.

Plus getting it off again when the client comes back 6 months later to complain it is ‘going off’ is a nightmare.

Also, remember not to apply it to fresh paint, as the gases that come of new paint will get trapped and form gas bubbles. This applies to reflective material too.

I know it is an old topic, but thought I’d add my 2 cents anyway 😮

[Shane Drew]

A big hello from down under.

Great Site people.

Hopefully I can contribute from way down here in Sunny Queensland, beautiful one day, perfect the next! We could do with some rain though.

Cheers
Shane
😀

[Shane Drew]

Hi Guys,

I am a son that employs his dad. Though I’d be a bit different!

Thats all from me,

I hope your son has as much fun working with you, his father, as I’ve had working with mine. 29 years this October.

He may be an old offsider, but he’s cheap!

Cheers

[Shane Drew]

The secret is to take your time.

Try doing it dry if you can. Wet is good if you are not confident.

In either case, don’t take the app tape off straight away. Gives the tape a chance to settle.

Applying it wet, don’t do on a cold surface. Doing it dry, don’t do it in direct sun light or heat.

Remember the rule… Measure twice, fit once.

Works for me, but drives my offsider nuts!!!

Shane
Drew’s Sign It