what should i do with badly creased graphics?

[Paul Rollason]

And another

as you can see it’s a full colour print

Paul R

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Attachments:

[Chris Wool]

PAUL SEND THESE PIC TO THE SUPPLIER LET THEM DECIDE ELSE THEY WILL SAY ITS YOUR FAULT ?

CHRIS SORRY UPPERS

[Paul Rollason]

I have sent the pics, however the parcel didn’t arrive until 4.30 friday and i am supposed to fit the graphics on monday 8.30

oh hum 🙄
Paul R

[Chris Wool]

i would be therte at 8.30 mon with the graphics as you said you would but explain whot has happened and show them that way you have done your bit whilst waiting for instructions from the supplier

chris

[Paul Rollason]

Cheers Chris

That is what I am going to have to do I think

Paul R

[Shane Drew]

Had the very same thing yesterday. An interstate supplier sent me a sign that had to be fitted next day. It looked the same as your photos. I had to try something, so I applied it wet and although the fitting was slow, I overcame most of the problems.

With the one or two creases I had left, I hit them with a hot air gun, and they pulled tighter and looked much better.

I don’t know where they are going, but if it is outside, the heat will probably pull it more tighter over time.

I’d certainly explain what happened thoe, and explain that you will do you best to fix it. They are going to be discarded anyway, so it may be worth a shot. Cover yourself with glory if it works, or if it doesn’t work, at least you showed the supplier you were prepared to give it a go.

Just my 2 cents. All the best with whatever you decide.

Shane

[Paul Rollason]

Thanks for all the advice

I may try to get them to send a replacement and do it later in the week

Just have to wait and see

Paul R(Mackerelbus Design)

[J. Hulme]

They shouldn’t be sending anything in paper tape.
Absorbs water, with capillary effect, expands and contracts too much with the humidity and temperature leaving you with a creased delivery, clear plastic is the way to go for posted stuff, but its more expensive, hence the reason for leaving you with the headache.
But you’ll probably find that the clear plastic carrier would actually lift the print off the vinyl, hence the paper trash*

Would have been more professional to have sent the graphics unattached and asked you to *lay* your own application/transfer sheet when and as needed.

* nothing wrong with paper transfer/application sheet, I prefer paper and find plastic doesn’t have the needed ‘give’ in it to aid a successful large(ish) installation, depends what you know and I of course know nowt.

[Robert Lambie]

I would also arrive with the job and show the customer, let him decided if you should go ahead.
Tell him upfront that the vinyl is kinked and creased in places, giving a very slim chance of an acceptable application.
I have applied creased vinyl before, its possible with two people top get it perfectly flat and bubble free, BUT… there is always lines in the vinyl, these are impossible to get rid of once applied.
The only possible way of ridding the vinyl of a kink or crease is to remove the application tape, then remove the vinyl from the carrying paper.
Then (if you have them) get 2 guys to hold the vinyl out straight/flat, but NOT tight. Then, take a heat gun and gently “always moving sided to side” hover the creases with the gun. You will see the creases disappear.
Make sure the guys aren’t pulling, because once the heat hits the vinyl it will distort and cool that way. Making applying very difficult.
once you have rid the creases, apply with a felt squeegee.

If however you have loads of creases in a large piece you may distort the vinyl too much be heating at numerous spots, causing it to distort

[John Singh]

How was this delivered Paul?
Was it wrapped around cardboard tube or just rolled up?

Just curious

John 😀

[Paul Rollason]

Hi guys

I have asked for another to be sent so we will se what happens.

The graphic wes sent rolled up on is self with an elastic band around it.
At some point in transit it had been squashed flat and then folded causing those tell tell creases.

I have spoken to the customer and he was willing to wait for a good job.

I will keep you posted.

Paul R(Mackerelbus Design)

[Mike Grant]

Scuse my ignorance, but if it is a full print then why would you need the carrier tape in the first place. (?) (?) (?) Carrier tape is to stop the lines of lettering falling all over the place, so if it is a full print you don’t need it.

I done a job a year or so ago where large areas of window etch were to be applied to windows at various destinations in the country. The goods were sent directly to the shops and all of them were sent with HIGH TACK carrier tape. Now common sense should tell you that if you are applying these wet how on earth are you supposed to get the application tape off!!!

We had to strip off the tape on the floor of the shop that took longer than the application to the windows, and the film streched as we took it off. Water sprayed everywhere as the window etch came away from the backing sheet and to stop it sticking to itself.

I lost £1500 on that job in lost time and extra travelling as we didn’t complete the job in time because of this little mistake (hot) (hot) (hot)

The people we did the job for have filed my letter of complaint in file 13 (:)

[Rodney Gold]

Hiya Mike ,
the reason for applying app tape to a full print is that it can be a nightmare to apply otherwise. Solvents and ecosolvents tend to thin or attack the vinyl and dark areas are attacked more , polymeric or cast vinyl is generally pretty thin as it is and if you dont use app tape , once the print is taken off the backing it tends to selectively pucker etc. The app tape also protects the print when applying.
You need the right tape tho , low tack paper based is the way to go as it allows solvents to evaporate and doesnt damage the print itself when removed.
We send large prints out in cores generally and multiple flat prints like certificates are packed tween plywood or some other rigid substrate.