[Bob Scullion]

Thanks Martin

Gave them a call, sample on its way

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks for the reply Hugh, more bother than its worth in my opinion to go down that route, found something on Hexis site so Ive asked for a sample (I’ve use their mirrored gold in the past and was ok to cut and weed compared to some of the tin foil stuff others do)

Thanks again

[Bob Scullion]

Done a test draw, perfect.

Thanks again for the advice John

[Bob Scullion]

Cheers John, doing an ink fill at the moment, regarding the syringe, I done that a few times on my older JV3, not done it on this JV33, if I need any pointers I’ll give you a shout.

Thanks again for taking the time to post, much appreciated

[Bob Scullion]

There is a card for a Window Films, Graphics & Manifestation Operative which is recognised as a Construction related occupation

[Bob Scullion]

Stuart

I think oracal do a dark grey in the 970 wrap vinyl

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Cheers guys, thanks for the prompt replies :thumbup2:

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks for the replies guys, cheers

[Bob Scullion]

Ewan

Hexis have a good range of coloured films, not sure how it would be with the heat though, they will send you 2 or 3 samples free of charge.

Oracal also do the 8300 coloured range, commonly used for tinting car lights

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

What Mr Miller Said

[Bob Scullion]

Oracal do a felt squeegee that’s pretty good, IMO.

A tip someone gave me but I’ve not acted on it yet was to use cut down pieces of an old fleece or buy a cheap kids fleece from somewhere like Dunn & Co or Matalan.

[Bob Scullion]

quote George Elsmore:

I order white polyprop from amari does the exactly same job as a cutting matt not sure if they have clear but they have different sizes and thickness give them a bell

George, what thickness do you use?

Thanks

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Hi Guys

I just got a new JV33 and the guy who installed told me to do a nozzle wash, set it for say 5 minutes, start it and about 30 seconds into it switch the machine off, that way it leaves the head soaking in the fluid and wont clog.

You may have to do a refresh, set this for 30 minutes, after that has been done do a hard clean and then a test print and all should be ok

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Your a man of many talents Mr Miller sir :appl:

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks again for all the replies

[Bob Scullion]

Mo, Peter Thanks for the replies, Mo do you paste the wall and then hang? I’ve never hung wallpaper (wrapped 8 metre portacabins though) and the thought of pasting paper or a wall in order to hang sounds a lot of bother.

My other concern is the joins, is a small overlap acceptable or has it got to be edge to edge?

I was leaning towards self adhesive or is this a no no?

I had a sample of coala stuff(self adhesive) from Antalis and have to say the finish is really nice.

Anything I should be carefull of wall types, paint finishes etc?

Thanks again lads for taking the time to reply

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Mr Miller is spot on as per usual, the general consensus is that if you block UV you stop fading which as Stuart has explained is incorrect.

The other thing I have noticed from experience is that Fabrics are more prone to fading mainly due to the dye pigments making up the colours of the garments/fabric.

At best you can reduce the effect but you cannot eliminate fading.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Bought mine second hand around 2 years ago, solidly built good machine in my opinion

[Bob Scullion]

is it for flat glass, residential/commercial or auto motive?

Personally I would advise you steer clear of a sign company supplying window film, all they do is buy it from source and add on their %

Bonwyke are very good for flat glass and automotive films, great for advice for the novice too.

My preference for automotive is Suntek carbon films and usually Hanita for flat glass films. If its coloured decorative films Hexis do a good range.

Bonwyke 01329 289621 / Suntek uk 01279 419191

[Bob Scullion]

James

If your really stuck give me a shout, I use 11mm eyelets and your welcome to bring your banner along and use my press and eyelets.

I’m in Clydebank.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Try John Adams 01415570007

[Bob Scullion]

Cheers David thanks for the reply

[Bob Scullion]

Nick

How’s the Mounters Mate ?

I’m at the stage where I’m looking at changing my laminator (Drytac JM 54 I bought second hand a few years ago) for either a new Drytac, Easymount 1400 or the Mounters Mate.

Cheers

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Apparently all orders to be placed via Northampton to begin with 01604 673408

[Bob Scullion]

Unit 6 North Elgin Place, next to Scotkart off Glasgow Road

[Bob Scullion]

Your not too far away, I’m in Clydebank. Was wondering when I seen the Glasgow phone number on the van. Give me a shout if your down this way, the kettles always on.

[Bob Scullion]

Was just curious as I done something similar, not as big and used KPMF air release vinyl and found it really good to work with.

Out of curiosity. where are you located Euan

Cheers

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

What did you use Ewan (material) for the main part

Cheers Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Cheers David, thanks for taking the time to reply :thumbup2:

Bob @ Prestige

[Bob Scullion]

David

Looking good, you like the metamark vinyl then? I’m in the process of changing / looking around after the Paperlinx scenario and have started using their digital vinyl, MD5-A and have to say quite like it.

Is metamark your preferred vinyl of choice and how do you rate it compared to Oracal, if you don’t mind me asking.

Cheers

Bob @ Prestige

[Bob Scullion]

You can get 1520 wide vinyl to fit in a 1300 wide plotter, well I can in the mimaki cg130, it fits but you lose the ends, ie, just over 100mm from each end.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

"The Vinyl Corporation is where I got my Oracal vinyl from anyway"

where they not supplied via paperlinx? Its obviously going to be a bit of a pain to start with but oracal will want to resolve supply issues asap.

[Bob Scullion]

Josh

I have the JV3-130 and got a similar error occasionally and was advised to get some 3 in 1 oil and spray it onto a paper towel and wipe the rails the head runs along (chrome rods/rails that run the length of the printer) worked a treat.

I usually now wipe these rails before every other print job and its amazing how much offspray of your ink gathers on there.

Hope this helps

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

How you doing Ewan, I done something similar but had to print the image on something like 4 passes to make the image more vibrant (lays down a couple of layers of ink) as I’ve found that depending on what colour you are trying to achieve it can sometimes look a bit wishy washy so to speak.

[Bob Scullion]

Doesn’t take that much time, 4 beads of adhesive on each panel, minutes to apply, no screws as per customers request and if and when he wants it removed if it takes longer, which i agree it would, it costs more. I suppose these are the pro’s and con’s or what you might call a compromise.

I’ve removed this type of panel before and the adhesive actually comes off quite easy if you use new blades in a triumph scraper (6 inch blade)

[Bob Scullion]

I tried some Evo-Stick Evo-Grip grab adhesive last night and it worked a treat, stuck like the proverbial sh!t to a blanket.

350ML tube £4.98 from Billy Quicks.

Thanks guys

[Bob Scullion]

Kick your shoes off and jump up onto your table, assuming you have a tape holder / dispenser for the application tape, pull the tape walking backwards and lay down gently, job done

[Bob Scullion]

They’ve bought a plotter and heat press but have no idea if its suitable equipment for what they want to do !! :shake:

Ask the people who supply garment transfer film or might need to be dye sublimation for leather. or even embroidery.

[Bob Scullion]

Cheers Cheryl, thanks for the reply, given the choice I’d like to use something thats not as expensive as the CT1 but if its the only one for the job I might have to.

Its just that I’ll probably use 8 tubes or so.

Thanks again

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Cheers Dave

I find myself in a similar situation, all common sense really but just wondered if there was such a thing as Industry standard rate between trade so to speak, ie, £10 per metre depending on blah blah blah.

Thanks again for the prompt reply

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Cheers, thanks for that link, I’ll have a look

[Bob Scullion]

Stuart’s right, the preferred product is the Oracal 8300, either light or dark grey.

The fly eye type of material looks really poor and cheap.

The only trouble with the Oracal is availability, I had to order a 50m x 1260mm roll which had to come from Oracal in Germany as its not stocked by any UK suppliers.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Might be worth contacting Noel @ Silverskies 01862811379

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks for the replies, I think an overlap would be the answer as I cant see how on earth you can manually trim every print perfectly so that when butted together the joins are perfect.

Rob: seen this before on another post about wallpaper, going crosseyed reading them all to be honest.

Thanks again all

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Cheers John, might give them a call or pop in, only 20 minutes from me

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks for the prompt reply John, hope your well and keeping busy young fella, didn’t know they done such a course.

where did you go for it and how much was it, if you don’t mind me asking.

Thanks again

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

None of the "good stuff" is cheap, arguably the best on the market is Suntek (big manufacturer and supplier of window films)

A lot of the others are just rebranded.

Suntek are at 01279 419191

[Bob Scullion]

Would your vinyl supplier not be the best person to ask, surely they have guidelines for the material they supply

[Bob Scullion]

Just to say thanks to those who replied to my post, got it sorted (well test draw anyway) looks like you were right John regarding the syphoning effect with the waste bottle overflowing.

Fitted new cartridges, done an ink fill, nozzle wash and draw through the ink at the pump and test draw fine.

Thanks again guys, much appreciated.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Hope so too, thanks again for the reply

[Bob Scullion]

quote Denise Goodfellow:

Bob, where are u based, our guy is between Manchester and stoke on Trent.

For over usage of ink,check the automatic head clean time, I mentioned our ink overflow bottle thingy, needed emptying a lot more than the other mimaki, it was on clean ever 4 hrs…. Changed it to every 24hrs, should save on in know.

Im in Glasgow Dennise, my machine is set to 24 hours for sleep and routine clean, as John suggested its possible that with the waste bottle overflowing it has somehow caused a syphoning effect with the black, which would explain the usage issue.

Thanks again for taking the time to reply

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks John, thats what I thought, something along those lines, but why only the black? and could this in some way be part of the reason half the blacks not printing, if the cart is empty could there be a fault with the chip reader on the machine in that it has failed to indicate no ink but in actual fact is indicating near end!!

I checked in greater detail last night and tried to calculate how much black has been used since replacing both blacks (21st May) approx 70 to 75 ml according to the print software.

2 new cartridges due in today so hopefully will get things sorted.

Thanks for the replies guys

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Ive just tied to work out how much black ink ive used (Onyx rip software shows approximately how much of each ink has been used per print) and by my calculation i have used around 50ml but have only a very small amount left in each black cartridge, reading 1 in each cartridge of 440ml each !

Any Ideas?

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Can anyone suggest why the printer would use more ink (black) than normal, I put 2 new cartridges in approx 2 – 3 weeks ago and although I’ve printed a fair bit the black is now registering 1 for each cartridge.

I am sure I had not used anywhere near 2 cartridges worth of black ink in that time.

Could this have anything to do with the waste ink bottle overflowing?

Thanks

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks very much Mr Thomson, how you doing? long time no see (I think I still owe you a tenner or so) 🙂

[Bob Scullion]

Denise do you have a name and number for your tech guy just in case.

Thanks

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks again

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks for the reply Jamie, excuse my lack of knowledge, the dampers, is that where the ink is stored before being sent to the head, where people mention drawing it through with a syringe?

Whats the slider board?

Thanks again

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Cheers guys, thanks for the info

[Bob Scullion]

Cheers Dave, thanks for the info, will give them a call later today.

Thanks again

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Someone suggested it shows printable area and not the actual media width, does that sound right?

but that would not explain why it prints off center though!!

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Morning John

Thanks for the prompt reply, everything appears ok regarding settings for margins etc checked all that.

Tried a couple of small test prints and they are set to print centre of media but actually print 30mm nearer the left side of media as you look at the front of the machine, off centre if that makes sense.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

No VAT

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

A few enquiries asking the same questions, age of equipment and software used.

All approx 5/6 years old, Onyx for printing (genuine software, dongle) and cutting straight from corel using Summa Cut.

Will split if necessary but would prefer to sell as a complete bundle.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

I’ve done something similar in the past using white matte film and then applied a coloured decorative film onto that to good effect.

The white matte is a translucent film allowing approx 70% of light in but still offering total privacy, all you can see is an outline if there is a strong light behind anything close to the window the film has been applied to.

As Rob said earlier, speak to the guys at Bonwyke, they should be able to help you.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Cheers Rob, Thanks for that.

Since posting have spoke to a couple of people and all offered the same lads details.

Thanks again

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Anyone considering this definately have a look, good piece of kit and really well looked after, cleaned every day and pampered to the hilt.

I know the machine and the lad that owns it, believe me its well worth the 4k

[Bob Scullion]

Rapid tac 2 here for etched or opal frost even if its small fiddly bit in the design, if its not too cold or a wet outer window you can remove your app tape usually within 10 mins.

[Bob Scullion]

Same set up as Neil here, mutoh valuejet printer and Summa D120 plotter, had the plotter approx 3 years, never missed a beat and would recommend.

I know a couple of guys who run graphtec plotters and love them, think you would be safe going with one of the main manufactures.

I might be upgrading soon (to a larger plotter that can take 1370mm material)
if so I’ll be posting it on here.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

if you create your text with a small outline just print the outline on fluorescent and you can contour cut on the versacam, would this noy be a solution to your problem.

The only thing I’ve found is that colours change when printing onto fluorescsent vinyl.

[Bob Scullion]

Abode window films do an anti fog film, stops condensation on glass or mirrors when appllied but can work out to be expensive dependant upon quantity required

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks for the replies guys

[Bob Scullion]

got myself 1 of these, 36 inch, great wee bit of kit.

Thanks for bringing it to our attention Martin

Cheers

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Never gave that a thought Chris, fair point, don’t know if I would go back to a 610 plotter after the Summa D120, you’ve given me something to think about,
it’s either a bigger plotter for the contour cutting and keep the Mutoh or a print/cut but only for the contour stuff.

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks again for the replies, as I said earlier I am looking to possibly upgrade in the new year and due to lack of space fancied the idea of a print/cut set up and know that a lot of folk have the roland which is obviously tried and tested over the years.

Just wanted to make sure I can print/laminate/contuor cut with the versacamm.

Thanks again

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Gary/Lorraine

Thanks for the prompt reply, I have a Mutoh Value jet 1304 and a Summa D120 plotter and have to make sure if I need to do any prints that need contour cut it can only be approx 1180mm wide as the plotter will only cut a max of 1200mm but was looking to maybe upgrade and like the idea of a print/cut set up mainly to save space but the lad who used to do my printing for me said he couldn’t print, laminate and then contour cut on his versacamm.

Thanks again

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

quote Martin:

Lorraine, could you not just use a couple of quick release type clamps to keep it secure while working?? That way it would still be easy for you to move about but could be pretty secure when you needed it to be.

Good point Martin, never thought of using the quick release clamps.

Might just get one of these.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Do these need to be secured to your bench or are they heavy enough to stay in position whilst in use.

Thanks

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

I love seeing how other people tackle some jobs.

Sites like this make life a lot easier as I work on my own and sometimes struggle trying to work out how to overcome some problems like applying large graphics.

I have a workbench 1525mm x 4250mm but am vertically challenged in that I have a problem with my eyes, they are too close to my feet:)

My bench is 1525 because I mainly do window film that comes 1525 wide and if rolling any out to pre cut I need the width and after recently taking the plunge and buying a 1370 wide printer the width is great for trimming prints down etc

Regarding your roll/log you use in the video, where you say its covered in banner material and then glued, where its glued down, does the slightly raised edge cause you any problems applying your vinyl/graphic.

Think I’ll give this a bash but would use the core from a roll of window film as its made from a hard plastic and is hard and smooth(oh er missus)

Well done and thanks for posting.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks for all the replies, spoke to Atwells yesterday, very helpful, press, eyelets and tape ordered.

Thanks again

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks for the replies guys. Rob is 13mm standard size for the eyelets then.

Seen some eyelet machines at a couple of hundred pounds and others at 60 / 70 pounds, I know you get what you pay for in most cases but its not as if its going to be in use constantly.

Thanks again

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

John,

Could you possibly contact me please, just like to pick your brains regarding the laminator.

Even if you text me your number or send me an e-mail.

Many thanks

Bob mod-edit please read board rules

PS. Sorry but cant pm hope this is acceptable.

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks for the reply Kev. Think its just flat, I’ve not seen the actual sign, picture provided by interiors company I do some work for.

Thanks for the info, will try them tommorrow.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

John

Thanks for posting, if you had a 4mtr print to laminate I assume you have it rolled up and at the end furthest away from the laminator and using the foot pedal it will gradually unroll as its feeding through.

I notice you dont have much room behind the laminator, do you just let it fall behind as it passes through.

Thanks again for posting.

Cheers

Bob

PS, If you get bored you could always do a wee video showing it actually being done :lol1:

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks for the reply Martin, I have an idea of what you mean but it would be good to see the process in action for longer prints if possible.

Sorry for the late reply, was off last week.

Thanks again

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Hi Martin

Just thought it would be awkward to keep placing a carrier board through the laminator.

Just feel that I would need a few boards at 1370 wide (or slightly wider) as thats the size of material I would be using.

I understand that if I am doing smaller prints / boards etc I can cut the laminate down but just feel that if I have something around 5 mtrs in length it would mean stopping and starting the process unless I have so many ready but think it would be awkward as I am on my own and dont fancy trying to hold print somehow as its fed through and try to place a board in place.

May be better to see someone in action, so to speak.

Thanks again for the reply

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

John

I have the chance to purchase one of these, 2nd user, are they ok for laminating digital prints 2 to 3 meters in length? any info I can find for them seem to suggest they are more for laminating individual prints or mounting prints onto boards and always suggest using a carrier board which is not feesable if doing a large print 2 metres or longer.

Cheers

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Do they have to be "blacked out"

There is a product called "Temp Screen" its white in colour and is designed for this purpose and easily removed.

Call Bonwyke if interested and ask for a sample and spec sheet.

Bob

PS. Rule of thumb is don’t fit black vinyl film to glass unless its toughened/tempered as it absorbs the heat, especially if south facing and will crack/break laminated or float glass.

[Bob Scullion]

ended up having to strip a couple of windows and redo them. Done them wet, came out fine.

Standard 8510 Cameron, didn’t know Oracal done a rapid air version.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

I’ll do the same if its flood coating but these ones have a pattern cut out in the vinyl and thought it would be better rather than doing it wet.

hate trying to remove the application tape if I’ve had to do it wet.

Cheers

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

quote Stuart Miller:

I do all my etch wet to avoid this problem. Unless there is some intricate graphics in the pane which need to be done dry, but then small bits of etch rarely get the white marks. I don’t think I have ever popped a bubble on etch as it shows so much.
Will try the lighter trick, good tip.

I know what your saying Stuart but unfortunately either through my fitting method or whatever on this occasion I ended up with approx half a dozen small bubbles at various points when I done it dry and thought I had no option but to pierce them and push any air out.

As a matter of interest, what solution do use with etched glass when doing wet? do you use your tint/film solution, baby shampoo/baby bath or rapid tac?

Does anyone use the dry apply type of etched film and if so is it any better in reality.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Pin pricking bubbles in etch is not to good an idea

Martin, if I do get a bubble or 2 in the etch vinyl how would you remove it without some form of escape, surely if I just try to heat the area the air will expand and make it worse.

[Bob Scullion]

quote Dave Rowland:

ah this is always a issue

if ur not sure order the roll.

Done so Dave, looks like I am going to be left with a few rolls with X amount on them over time.

[Bob Scullion]

Just thought there may be a rough guide someone used.

Some window film manufacturers have it printed on the release liner every 2 to 3 feet so you know how much you have left.

Might not be such a bad idea for the vinyl companies to do likewise on full 50 meter rolls on the backing paper..

Don’t want to unroll the media and get it contaminated.

Thanks

[Bob Scullion]

quote Ben Walker:

i find the best way to get the best cut at the top edge is to cut it close at 90 degree then using a small file use upward movements and take off the few millimeters this way the film does not protrude from the glass and get taken off by the window closing against the seal.

it will also produce a nice crisp top edge.

Ben right, but file top edge after post heating or the film will lift leaving small bubbles along the edge. not too sure about the 90 degree though.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Ian

How do I direct the heat onto a vertical surface? could I use a heat gun?

Is it a case of I’ve stretched the vinyl when applying or not overlapped properly(my strokes)

Thanks for the reply

Bob

:police: Mod-Edit
* Please use "Descriptive Topic Titles" when posting.
* This posts Title has now been edited.

Please take a moment to look over our Board Rules.

.

[Bob Scullion]

definitely use an olfa with a stainless steel blade. we file or sand down the bottom edge of the actual knife, where the blade comes out at the top of the knife and the sharp edge of your blade is, the part that comes in contact with the glass as you trim the top edge of a drop glass.

This takes a few attempts to get it nice and smooth so you dont mark the film as you trim. If you dont you tend to get whats commonly called a "tram" line, a line approx 2mm all the way from the top edge where the knife has come in contact with the film.

Some will trim the top edge and move down slightly, "micro edging" so its a little quicker as you dont then have to file your top edge after youve heated your top edge.

Another little tip is to practice cutting the small overlap of film at the top edge of a drop glass holding the knife at approx 45 degrees to the glass edge and also having the blade edge at 45 degrees as this glides better along the glass edge.

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Thanks for the replies

Getting a bit frustrated with it, new to this printing malarky, seem to get one thing working properly but something else causes problems.

Would like to get a hold of someone who is or has used the software who can keep me right.

Have I clicked the wrong box in choosing uksb gold Rob. Can I upgrade so to speak

Bob

[Bob Scullion]

Glad I could help

[Bob Scullion]

Looks similar to Tekton Pro.

Bob