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  • advice needed fitting Etched Glass Vinyl please?

    Posted by Bob Scullion on September 13, 2011 at 7:14 am

    I’ve just fitted 30 panels of the above, Oracal 8510 / 090, average size of 620mm x 1100mm.

    The manifestation is made up of 4 stripes, bottom 50mm then 25mm gap next one up 100mm then 25mm gap third one 150mm then 25mm gap and the top one is 245mm.

    Most of it was fitted fine, dry fit hinge in centre, but on a few of panels I got some small bubbles and when I tried to pin hole and push out they just went like small white dots and I ended up replacing the individual panels.

    I was carefull to make sure I was squeegeeing correctly, overlapping strokes etc but got this happening on maybe 5 out of the 30 panels.

    Use a 3m gold squeegee, as I do for most installs, vinyl with app tape and got what I would describe as a residue building up on the squeegee but cleaned that off after each panel install.

    Any tips to get it bang on as this was phase 1 and I’ve got another 3 lots to do, all going well.

    Thanks

    Bob

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    Stuart Miller replied 12 years, 7 months ago 6 Members · 12 Replies
  • 12 Replies
  • Ian Johnston

    Member
    September 13, 2011 at 8:07 am

    cure for your white dots.

    Use a cigarette lighter ( SERIOUSLY ), A quick run over of a flame from a lighter will remove the white marks in etch glass that are caused by stretching, crease’s and bubbles.

    Ian

  • Bob Scullion

    Member
    September 13, 2011 at 8:39 am

    Ian

    How do I direct the heat onto a vertical surface? could I use a heat gun?

    Is it a case of I’ve stretched the vinyl when applying or not overlapped properly(my strokes)

    Thanks for the reply

    Bob

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  • Ian Johnston

    Member
    September 13, 2011 at 8:49 am

    a heat gun works, but it does too large an area, a lighter is a small flame that work just were needed, hold it just below the mark.

    try it on you window in the office, it works

  • Stephen Henderson

    Member
    September 13, 2011 at 4:24 pm

    I have a chefs blow torch in my tool kit, easier than a lighter, get yourself one handy for a lot of jobs 😀

  • Martin Pearson

    Member
    September 13, 2011 at 10:21 pm

    Bob, never tried it myself sorry but if Ian says to use a lighter and you are looking for something for more of a vertical surface then maybe a pipe lighter would be better.

    I have whats left of a doming kit knocking about somewhere and it had a little gas blow lamp for removing the bubbles in the resin, might just have a go with that and see how well it works.

    Pin pricking bubbles in etch is not to good an idea if you can help it as the hole can normally be seen, apart from getting the technique right with overlapping strokes it is important to make sure the edge of the squeegee stays sharp. With use they tend to develop a curve of some description on the edge which can lead to bubbles as not all the air is forced out properly.
    You can normally see if the edge is flat or not when you look at it. If it’s not flat then you can resharpen the edge by rubbing against another squeegee.

  • Cheryl Smith

    Member
    September 14, 2011 at 6:23 am
    quote Ian Johnston:

    Use a cigarette lighter ( SERIOUSLY ), A quick run over of a flame from a lighter will remove the white marks in etch glass that are caused by stretching, crease’s and bubbles.

    Ian

    what a great tip Ian…thanks for sharing that one…another bit of kit to put in the tool box.

  • Bob Scullion

    Member
    September 14, 2011 at 9:11 am

    Pin pricking bubbles in etch is not to good an idea

    Martin, if I do get a bubble or 2 in the etch vinyl how would you remove it without some form of escape, surely if I just try to heat the area the air will expand and make it worse.

  • Stuart Miller

    Member
    September 14, 2011 at 1:23 pm

    I do all my etch wet to avoid this problem. Unless there is some intricate graphics in the pane which need to be done dry, but then small bits of etch rarely get the white marks. I don’t think I have ever popped a bubble on etch as it shows so much.
    Will try the lighter trick, good tip.

  • Bob Scullion

    Member
    September 15, 2011 at 7:05 am
    quote Stuart Miller:

    I do all my etch wet to avoid this problem. Unless there is some intricate graphics in the pane which need to be done dry, but then small bits of etch rarely get the white marks. I don’t think I have ever popped a bubble on etch as it shows so much.
    Will try the lighter trick, good tip.

    I know what your saying Stuart but unfortunately either through my fitting method or whatever on this occasion I ended up with approx half a dozen small bubbles at various points when I done it dry and thought I had no option but to pierce them and push any air out.

    As a matter of interest, what solution do use with etched glass when doing wet? do you use your tint/film solution, baby shampoo/baby bath or rapid tac?

    Does anyone use the dry apply type of etched film and if so is it any better in reality.

    Bob

  • Stuart Miller

    Member
    September 15, 2011 at 7:38 pm

    Yeah Bob just use my normal tint slip solution. Water and Baby shampoo.
    I’ve done few dry and although I haven’t got bubbles I have found that the squeegee leaves a few white marks which I’ve never been happy with so just do it wet and always get a good result for large panes. So used to tinting wet that its not any hassle.

  • Bob Scullion

    Member
    September 16, 2011 at 9:50 am

    I’ll do the same if its flood coating but these ones have a pattern cut out in the vinyl and thought it would be better rather than doing it wet.

    hate trying to remove the application tape if I’ve had to do it wet.

    Cheers

    Bob

  • Stuart Miller

    Member
    September 16, 2011 at 8:20 pm

    yep Know what you mean, its an awkward decision whether to go wet or dry when there are graphics cut out.

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