Chris Wool
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i’am with colin glass for the last 8 or so years second sheet as dropped a gearbox on the first one. this one 5 year old blades are so cheap it don’t matter. just lovely unidirectional cutting.
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not so daft if short of space i had one years ago when space was short really nice to lay up boards on but weeding a bit strange.
like the magnet idea is there a magnetic vinyl for white boards which could be covered with a couple of layers of stone-guard material just don’t be a animal on it. modern high power magnets are cheap and plentiful .
i had lots of strategically placed holes drilled to take pegs to hold different size boards at suitable heights.
possible to hinge the btm half to swing out on to legs to make a flat area best of both worlds…
enjoy
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this subject has come up quite a bit before and is a bit of a minefield
you really need a a3+ laser colour printer + guillotine and a click payment deal but that will only do to 250 gsm to do cards 350 -400 gsm stock different story again
we have the kit but only really much use if the customer wants up to 1000 off after that cheaper to buy it in. try and find out what the local printers are charging then have a look at the likes of hello print on the net.. don’t forget to charge your design time
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the black box heater controller is held by one screw at the ft right lower corner and two on the lower rear of the box too a plate.
before doing anything with that make sure that the mains is disconnected from the controller and that the machine is switched off completely as the box is connected to the mother board.
the fuses i have never had anything to do with but know off them, they are surface mounted and require a lot of care to replace need checking before diving in with a soldering iron.
back to the other question did you spill ink when changing the dampers.
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If that was the case, do you think at least some nozzles would fire on the 2 heads. Inklines have ink in both the yellow and black lines
if not one nozzle firing on both heads guess fuse first but the question is if fuse what blew it?
don’t buy just buy one fuse, they are plenty cheap enough.
if you have changed dampers did you spill ink on the print board or cables or was dampers done after the heads stopped printing?-
This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by
RobertLambie.
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This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by
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can’t think of anything witty so its a sign tray
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rob wouldn’t dare criticize but .
do like the sandblaster though
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i would ring your rep (customer satisfaction liaison officer) and say hexis we have a problem if they sort it fine if not go elsewhere but i would stick (not a pun) with the better known brands
metamark
spandex ip5700
oracal
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i would be tempted to switch the machine off completely then separate the cutting head from the print head and operate the cutter head manually to see if it is traveling all the way to lock it down think its only being partly locked down.
if the cable is slightly slack then could cause this or wear on the sheet cut mech. or even a bit sticky.
unfortunately the service command limit adjust also resets the head capping and lock position so needs a lot of care
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have you tried that file and settings on standard print vinyl, is it a customer file or one you have created vector or bitmap.
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blimey they went out of fashion 20 + years ago when solvent got going, obviously you have a use for one, some suppliers still sell roll on liquid laminate might be a way forward or chat to old established suppliers that sell a lot of Aquarius printer stuff. clive turner from papergraphics may know more.
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possibly a cracked manifold on that head not uncommon after changing dampers as they do get a little brittle with age . there is also micro filters in the head
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think you answered your own question yes slow it right down all 4 rollers to high.
a couple of things though prismatic reflective is known to dull blades quickly and because of the extra thickness the distance calibration will be off possibly by 3 -5 mm over 1 mt feed distance the across distance will always be correct.
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have to say i would not have flood coated the panel new or old van unless a colour change the carpet logo is only a bit of cyan in a black text lay out
the multi greens would have been printed and cut individually no white showing if i had not got a similar pinky colour would have printed and cut that with suitable reg marks etc would have slotted together quickly. and save probably 1 and half mts of print and laminate. -
my old colour rip much prefers rgb not cmyk, cmyk always looks washed out.
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i would have a look at 3m di noc materials
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Ian we do a fare amount of MX type graphics which cutting the backing paper to the same as the graphic makes fitting easier, is the main reason.
the problem is that the cutpath being perfcut takes many times longer to cut that a normal media only cut the continual tapping noise is annoying at best and extra ware on the machine. knifes – knife holder.. the summa is normally regarded as the best in the class but it only takes one a5 to break loose in the middle of a sheet and the sheet ruined from there on due to the integrity of the sheet is lost and so the registration.
for your sort of job i would space the a5 5 mm apart print and lam cut then weed on a cutting table (mines glass) and run a knife between the a5s easy to do by eye and the weeding in place normally creates enough static to hold the sheet in place while you cut.
if you wanted to supply the a5s with the backing paper cut to a5 as well then you would have to do a standard cut first then do a perfcut and hope the registration has not moved. if you dont do the standard cut first the sticker will have a perforated edge. -
Ian to be honest to cut up 250 a5 after weeding would be quicker to cut them on the bench and quieter also next to no risk of stuffing the job up. yes i use perfcut on my systems but wouldn’t for that.
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don’t sweep hover .. when you pull the protective film off creates static needs another wet wipe been there its a pain..
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well done love when a plan comes together
interesting operation changing a ink bottle ? just a thought its a lot a weight wobbling about on the cart frame.
whats your thoughts on the fact of a lot extra ink volume pressure on the dampers. -
look at the top line of corel should be a rocket icon which should have winplot in the drop down list.
if winplot has installed its self and should load the current corel file in to winplot
also in your windows printer drivers should be the driver to drive the plotter straight out of corel -
well done nice days work
really need a stick with a nail in the end to prod them when they get to close.
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still doing bits for manufactures but the door is shut only me going in and keep machines alive.
new to 3d printing so learning lots, and fusion360 new vinyl magnets eventually found the right magnets.. new porch so printed new house numbers then gold leaf finish on raised surface.
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i am with signelite but they do come up with some odd things sometimes.
one thing to look at is value of customer vehicles in your care. also we found there driving customer vehicles on the road very prohibitive cost wise so don’t. also found lots of things silly imo. till you query it with them then they go back to the insurers then alter the policy to suit.
inc storage of tar and glue remover ipa other cleaning fluids you buy in 5 or 25 lt and they want it in 1 lt bottles ??
the average new van is valued far higher than there normal vehicle max cover.
endless emails about a new door the landlord fitted and the locks ?
a 1mt cage around a small heater thats 2 mt wide 1mt high and a mt in front ? well thats a quarter of the workshop taken up.i had a massive head crash that on first investigation took out 4 of the 6 heads. i asked about a possible claim for the repairs. whilst waiting and over the next few days i managed to repair all with out replacement. but because i asked about a claim its on record i have claimed and they wont remove it. they say it does not affect my premium but not happy about it
any body would think i am bored
stay safe
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i have a vs540 with white ink and as said can be disappointing at times but generally adequate.. the real problem is a 220 cart is £90 ish and you have to keep using it and shaking the cart its a real pain unless use have a regular use for it.
there are i think more machines out there with white that have either blocked up heads so not used or cleaning carts fitted. just to make things worse cap tops and waste pumps need changing more frequently i could go on.
but a means to a end and luckily we have several customers requiring white regular enough to make it work. -
the grafityp material we get is reverse wound to catch us out
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having just got a 3d printer and learning fast, the size took me back a bit, from what i have seen so far is the machines capable of that size are very rough and ready in the finish and would require considerable work before painting.
pipex px in Plymouth have a very large cnc machine and make lots of big plastic things
for making several of the smaller ones the latest silicone molding techniques could be used
alan harper composites saltash a leader in that sort of thing
composite integration saltash may be of help. -
see your first post nice to say hello and introduce yourself.
what problem were you chasing for you to want to clean the encoder disk.
and how did you clean it. -
google name logo find match
in a lot of cases the company logo is a bitmap so wont show the text, but in this case the header was text and also some other text in that font so showed up.
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KOY font found the name by inspecting the web site
enjoy
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could try based in poole…. there are others
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wise words
stuck mine in my leg and snapped the blade off
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if its a dealer i would be tempted to say i will pay xx pounds for it with the conversion done and warranty as they say its not really a problem.
to my mind its the sort of job that you may do well to start with but 2 mts down the line the problems start, with all genuine parts and fitting could be nearer 3000 -
i have never done this so take it a thinking out loud.
as its the head that would have the least amount of old ink in it i would consider flushing in 2 sections.
all to the dampers then new dampers then flush the head separate back together and fill. new cap and probably pump.
all presuming when it left the factory it was in solvent spec just dyesub ink used. -
sorry can’t help
but showing your age here thrupenny bit my mom told me about them :smiles: -
thanks for that hugh just about to order a upgrade
can you not set it all up as you want it and save a template as hugh’s template so when they muck about your template is just a few clicks away.
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i am with david the smaller blades do better , i did buy one of those exakt saws but never got on with it and it made a lot of dust stuff even with the hover attached. and the Excalibur is crap at it newer ones my be better.
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md 5 does it for me for general use.. i know the price difference adds up at the end of the year but one warranty job could wipe that out.
we do use other materials for dedicated work but arlon and oracal just never cut it for us -
probably not the answer you want but learn to copy and draw templates so you can design within and cut at will.
never really got on with knifless tape but ok for one offs, but something you will use several times is worth the time investment of a cutable template. -
Na
need new fuel cells for the flux capacitor so we can out run capt jack sparrowis cheryl’s excellent answer correct ?
we will find out after a few words from our sponsors.
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Fred many thanks but strangely enough we don’t want any ink in the system.. the plot thickens simon
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building a life size model of the cutty sark 😉
phil will give you a ring
thanks
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ah thanks
bit more info they need to be eco sol max please -
now need a chips helmet and ray ban aviators.. you can then hang your cape up supa dad ..
enjoy
not long finished cars and planes table top for g/son and montage of the g/kids for a lap tray for the misses.
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your a dad its your job
might even get a few brownie points ??
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its a special fuse that don’t really look like a fuse tucked away on one of the main boards and may be soldered on so only checked or changed by a competent engineer and is there only to protect the head every thing else will work.
you must know a friendly local shop
example not touting for work
i print for other people and considering myself as a professional their files are their files end of. only been asked once about file integrity told them as above. -
and while i think of it
it was ipa i used on one head as i had run out of cleaning fluid hadn’t been suggested or recommended just thought a good idea of mine at the time WRONG as i said it dries out too quick took me ages to get back to life. -
there is one option i haven’t mentioned
you say that the ink is flowing and lines of ink on the cap top but none of the nozzles firing just possible the head fuse has gone but beyond me on here to say how to test it.. if there is or has been ink on the cables or sockets, printed boards or cables removed while switched on etc a possibility.
only you can decide the economics of it but probably possible to sub the print work out while you make your mind up. afterall you have the customer and the file just need it printed. -
you have done the basics and we are not getting anywhere.
ink deposits at one end of the travel normally means the wiper is not doing its job or damper problem
the cap top if not sealing will lead to poor cleaning
if the cap top is wet (like your original pic) then either blocked or pump not scavenging blocked pipes etc even the pump its self, ink on the gears is a give away.
are there just a few nozzles printing or actually non at all.
i once used the wrong cleaning fluid and lost the lot for a while as it dried out to quickly.
really depends on you abilities to watch whats happening and think it through after that its really time for a tech even a new head etc.
best of luck -
after putting back together did you do one powerful clean is the ink actually flowing
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possible they are OT which you have to tell coral to read those as well as TT forget where though sorry
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my idea of a head soak was to desolve any fluid carrier on the head surface and should be done with a new cap top.
you could try it all with out the soak and see how it goes.
to my mind oddly they say you should not wipe the head surface when cleaning with a swab but the machine wipes the head with a rubber scraper on every clean.. common sense has to apply . its only a very thin coating of gold which nothing should stick too.
use a mirror and torch to have a better look when the head is over to the left cleaning area.
from my experience with this type of head is if the pump and captop are all good then it self cleans very well but you have to keep tidying up any reside to keep it clean and sealing. -
these may help
dont know the bn is there a command in the menu to do circulations if so do several and keep shaking the white cart every day + if you can a extra circulation to keep the white mixed in the tubes.
from experience the white max 2 is better to use but does require you to be on top of it all the time the capping seal has to be kept spotless other wise it allows air in resulting in poor cleaning of all colours and drying white quicker in the nozzles stopping the flow of white and causing separation in the head and damper. only very regular use will prevent this. -
yes was thinking it was from either white or silver clear carrier
the cap top is desperately in need of replacement as its wet so not clearing well enough with will have affected the other colours. presume you dont use the white often needs a new cap top every 6 mts because of the white.
has this been converted to the max2 white yet.
i would fit new wiper felt and cap top (genuine only) and head soak for a day before one powerful clean hopefully all will return.
bear in mind that the pipes and damper is full of this stuff and if you get it going then print large areas of white to clear this through -
have you worked this out yet.
what ink set
was it sticky then dried still sticky or took a age to dry. what residue other than ink is in the cap top -
i might consider possible spray etch paint seams to be plenty about
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I quite like guessing games does the company name be fine with a H
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I am a bit green here 😉
Pleased all good, Enjoy! -
according to the metamark rep same business estate two different factories. although similar products they are not the same make up. both very good take your choice. still love md5 for general print even though the price keeps creeping up
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this from the manual. for error 0008
Check cable connection between Main Board and Servo Board.
Check the other cable connections of Servo Board.
Servo Board replacement
Main Board replacement
Flexible cable replacement.my guess is if it still cuts standard vinyls ok then the metallic may be creating a lot of static corrupting the signal between the boards. or idea if using very high cut pressure may possibly affect it.
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5700 for all general flat work, nice and easy to work with panel lips must be folded in so only one way no stretching. did try some wrap stuff that came on a clear backing hated that. for wrap use what you trust cheaper in the long run.
it was called ultramark a long time ago changed a bit over the years shows how long i have used it. i got pushed on to avery for a bit a fare while ago but that was disastrous some of you may remember. -
Something like:
“No Mr. Bond I expect you to die waiting with interest been threatening a laser for a long time.
Best of luck!” -
as said all down to the finish if it glass fiber etc. then any good cast will be ok if varnished wood and still has a grain texture not so clever. i would Finish the vinyl 5mm or so short of the edge. if racing oars i would have thought would create adverse drag.
as a note if we eventually have brexit can we have the lead put back in to colours like yellow to make them opaque again
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dam fine fellow thank you very much,, :smiles:
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welcome see your first post needing help
the fault is normally associated with the head flat cables what about other colours. oh and switch it off before rummaging around with cables.
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the problem you describe sounds like a data – connection fault 5m cable is about as far as the signal likes to go.
mine goes from the computer to a powered hub then 5m cable to the plotter.
the plotter usb socket is notorious for damage and failing due to the cable strain and knocked kicked cable etc. so the last couple of feet is looped and secured to the chassis so if tugged the loop will save it.
you can test for a memory data flow problem by sending lots and lots of circles to cut but you dont even have to have a knife fitted just material so only costs time.
in days gone by plotter memory was very small and these problems showed up very quickly today they are a lot larger and often swallow a whole cut file in one go so the problem does not show up hardly.
to cut a box it only needs 5 x,y coordinates a arc may have a new coordinate every 20 thou or so but depends on the shape of the arc. -
yes as said the rear doors of a custom are not flat enough for magnetics got the t shirt
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catch 22 with solvent papers more heat to dry it quicker = more cockling less heat less cockling does not dry quick enough. seams to be regardless of storage with in reason that is. i dont do a grate deal of posters but have to be careful when i do.
when i had a Aquarius printer cant remember it was a problem as you have a serious outlet may be worth a look at epsom hp printers, not latex possibly talk to Clive (Rep) at papergraphics he may be able to advise better. -
see you have changed the old manifolds to the new heads why, presume you bought water based head.
seam to remember some tricky O seals etc when reassembling if not sealing will give your problem. -
i have had problems in the past if there are open type and tt fonts of the same name just a idea
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yes had 12 mths of it mucking about about 2 yrs ago a friend mentioned he had a mk2 160 sitting doing nothing so got that for little money, don’t know why but totally different machine but looks identical.
i was just about to order a new latest roland judging by later reports pleased i didn’t. sounded like the apprentice did the firmware to start with. probably all sorted by now
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typical mine has the same problem. never have sorted it does odd letters come up on the screen 🙁 :smiles:
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sounds more like wrong material what is it make and type as said if correct material standard profiles are very close to correct
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Neil doing as i suggested will give you the same end result as Lee’s fine example.
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lee seams to have the answer.
you can do it by print on clear in reverse with reg marks, remove and laminate with white expose reg marks, then print correct way round the other side. realignment is the issue but depends on your rip and ability to put the material back in the right place.. i have solvent white capability but its just not opaque enough for that job plus the material will not handle that amount of solvent ink. -
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This PDF attached below may be of help or may not be applicable but worth checkingbest of luck Hugh this is the time of year for windy conditions, just in my view the risks far out way any potential profit
enjoy
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i can’t imagine that highways or the council would allow it the implications of a failure are far to high
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more important to explain why its normally done one way, but not set in stone teach them to think about what they are doing, not all plotters are set up 100% not all fonts are created (digitized) correctly TT fonts are the worst all makes a difference.
just depends on how the letters flow may be better to turn it around then whats the best for mirrored stuff if they are thinking about it they will work it out, to be good at something you have to cock it up a few times first.
i have a regular order for 1000 off small ish 5 letter logo best weeded rotated 180 deg
never say never they just may end up teaching you a thing or two -
my press came with this fitted thought they were standard
https://www.targettransfers.com/tools-a … ector.htmlalso stops button marks in the bed about time i replaced mine.
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in corel and roland think you have too set both ends of the fade to special ink white but apply the tint command to reduce one end to nil. seem to remember that’s how we did it.
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don’t shout at me but is there ink in the cart, the level indicator is not the best.
see a slight problem with the cyn so would give the pump and pipes a good looking at signs of ink on the pump gear teeth is a sign of leak. -
5k buys you a new bn20 probably what you saw bit slow compared and narrow but will do smallish stickers all day long print and cut. for something bigger and faster will only buy you a second hand one. repairs and upkeep has to be considered as some consumable parts – heads etc. are not cheap plus may also be the need of a professional tech to fit.
as you say mostly car stuff they should be laminated so also need to factor in the need for a suitable sized laminator and some stock vinyls. unless you have a real use for it probably best to steer clear of the white and metallic options as the inks are not cheap and require a lot of ongoing maintenance even if not used very often -
evening
depends what printer and ink setup you were looking at as to whats slow or fast detail and quality also play a part.
white and metallic inks really do slow them down. middle of the range versacams with duel cmyk are fast enough.
thing is you don’t have to watch it print every line you could be cutting stuff on the graphtec at the same time.
all total cost relative you need to work out how much you are going to use it and whats the actual finished product.
so a bit more info required budget – expectations etc. to give a better idea. -
was the material a subli block type presume the jackets to be the black bit
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adjustment required is feed calibration normal vinyls 0 thinner cast + a bit thick banner – a bit think thats the right way round. if you alter the machine make sure vw is not over riding the value.
some profiles have a feed value set but check if use machine value is active or not as required -
Banner box I would try first
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quote Luke Culpin:I’ve actually been having a nightmare with mine as of late. When cutting vinyl lettering, we have a repeat job of logos in sheet sizes of around 1800mm. It’s gradually got worse and worse at not closing off the letters correctly and can sometimes be around 7mm out of place. We’ve found out today that by manually pre winding enough material through for the job gets rid of the issue, but don’t feel I should need to do this! Back onto engineers tomorrow I think!
as said bits wearing but you have a pre-feed command that will pre-feed the job amount for you, i like to do it manually so i can double check the run out or lack of it.
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watched the vid quite a party piece but dont think of any use to run of the mill users
my thoughtsfastest way to ware out a nice bit of kit is to run it flat out.
fine i think for the small light weight sheet probably not laminated
my graphtec will do a fast search of marks if you can be bothered to tell it the distance first fine for lots of the same.
fine well built plotters that they are don’t think it would be fair to it if you give it a 8×4 laminated sheet and work at that speed and acceleration G-Force. its got to slip ?and another thing they are dear enough with out having to buy extras.
only jealous as i an’t got one. 😉 -
this is sad news as i like them always been top service in the past last order around march no problems, i also noticed the guys in the states moaning as well, so whats going on.
but they did leave me a bit pissed off a month ago, i was after a particular dx4 capping and got next to no help as the web site comparison part was not as required. -
just raising the question in case the operator has not thought it through enough.
in the instance shown probably easy remove and paint to give that look.
done a fare few recovery trucks and surprising how long it can take doing those bits.
as a guide get in and out of the equipment yourself and you will soon find the bits that need marking -
i would be tempted to raise the H&S issues, on first thought good idea high vis, on second thought very slippery when wet care where you put it. in a claim the manufactures would be quick to say nothing to do with us guess the rest.
from experience lamination will extend the life but will they pay the extra ? the 3M flor yellow seams to last till the next paint job. -
not to correct you Myles to help as i said.
if you use the 3 triangle test cut will help setting depth and pressure as the the outer triangles are one step lighter and other one step higher pressure. than the middle one which is as set. think i got that the right way round..chris
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as i understand it the quality setting is the acceleration speed between points up to its set speed ( called G force ) on some machines.. normal setting is 2 or 1 for very fine work. somewhere in the settings you may have use machine settings ticked so altering CM will do nothing.
you could do some 2 inch letters and alter the quality in the conditions on the machine then you will see that it on setting 8 jerks between points not nice.to help.. the small triangles test cut is for setting the offset normally 0 as you set whether it has a 09 blade 015 blade which has its own known offset but a 30 or 60 deg blade may need the offset altering..
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as neil said coral will do all they want just had a play with inkscape could do most simple things and lots of vector tools but could not find how to create a spot colour for a cutpath. there probably is..
coral 12 or X3 will do fine . -
don’ know about mutoh but think possibly static you printed any odd materials lately or new carpet. try to think what has changed, humidity etc. could be barking up the wrong tree. but that is what causes light misting.
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not to good i am afraid. black has severe defections and may not recover cyan could be better, mag yellow showing signs of degrading.
the actual head alignment and feed rate seam ok just nozzles all over the place.
start with new captops wipers, double checking caps seal and pumps sucking well, you could try a long head soak may bring back a few more.
you could resort to sucking or pumping cleaning fluid through the head but if you get it wrong will cost more than a new head so cant recommend it,
a head change is probably on the way soon if you were to change the blk cyn head now the difference in the black print will show up a lot lot better. may seam like a lot of money but imo you will spend a lot of time effort and ink and still not get it back to as good as a new head.best of luck
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Posibly a poor white point set in the rip profile. Could try a different profile
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yes agree but this was a metallic only problem and did not show up till 12 to 18 months after fitting
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been following these 751 threads with some interest as years ago we fell for all the manufactures hype about 751 and started using 751 metallic colours all failed miserably by cracking up, fading. non metallic appeared ok
even lettering on a flat surface the higher up the side of the van the worse it was, presumed to be poor uv resistance, as we got very little interest from suppliers and no help so guess what i think of it.
remember last year striped a van for a customer all the ip5700 that was all in good condition came off clean the 751 was a nightmare. -
if it was my machine (pick out what you think) sounds like ink starvation or air a poor sealing cap will lead to these results
agitate the cart 1 med clean catch the waste ink should be just about tea spoon full if not recheck sealing of cap.
if all good then print at a slower speed approx half see if improvement.
when you cancel a print it will stop printing (time to recuperate) then do a setup note just before the head goes to find the rollers it goes back a forth a bit over the cap this is a all nosel firing squirt to prime ready to print. so if you do a test print the fault is hidden.