[Dan]

Thanks everyone.

I managed to get some from Spandex in the end but it had to get sent from abroad.

The bad news is that didn’t stick to the cladding all that well, it’s seems to have some anti stick stuff on it.

Along with that, there is silicone everywhere, does anyone know a product I can paint on to make it stick to the cladding and silicone?

The cladding has to be coloured and I’m running out of options.

Thanks

[Dan]

Thanks guys. they have discontinued the colour I needed but there was a few metres left which I’ve now taken so I can get the job done.

[Dan]

Epson S60600 here and I love it.

The 80600 gets better colours but mine does everything i need. I looked at the new Rolands recently and the print quality looks great compared to when I had my vsi-640 but mine gives me a great print so I can’t complain.

[Dan]

I’m with Rob, I’d say 1 day.

The rear doors will obviously take the longest. The bonnet will take less than half hour.

I’d say a maximum of 2 hours on both sides which leaves you 5 and a half hours to get the rear doors done in an 8 hour day.

I think you could maybe save an hour on each one once you know the job if not more.

[Dan]

Do you have an example of one you can share Rob?

In regards to wrapping the vehicle, I can’t really add anymore than what’s been mentioned. Polymeric on the side and Cast on the front.

Personally I would remove any existing graphics.

[Dan]

Adobe for me as well.

[Dan]

So I’ve booked my tickets to wrapfest. The pint from Rob was what did it for me.

I need to clarify, I’ve booked to go both days so do I get 1 pint per day or 1 per event Rob?

After Fespa came last time around it was something else (I don’t look at the Sign and Digital event the same as I once did) so I didn’t want to miss out and booked up for both days.

Whether I go both days will be based on the first day but at least I have the option.

Has anyone gone to Sign and Digital this year? I had no interest in going and like others have said, it doesn’t offer anything special anymore so I wonder with Wrapfest around the corner if number have dropped.

[Dan]

Thanks Rob

I ended up finding my little box of goodies. It’s the red and grey wall plugs I use.

[Dan]

Oh, I like the sound of this and it’s closer to me (finally).

[Dan]

I’m getting to the stage of having enough.

People ask me how much this is and I’m honesty saying I don’t know anymore. I used to be able to roll off how much things cost without even looking.

I’ve just lost out on a full wrap this morning because we are £1000 apart, Maybe I am a little high, maybe they are a little low but £1000 is a big difference, I have never lost a deal being that far apart.

[Dan]

That’s been put up within the last couple of weeks and taken back down again, I was only there at the end of October. If anyone can put me in contact with Football clubs, I’ll be sitting on a small fortune just doing their windows.

[Dan]

Thank you all, I really do appreciate your feedback.

I ended up fitting wet and had another to help me this time around rather than trying to battle on my own but like you Rob, I do like to fit everything dry.

I’ll keep in mind taping up the whole graphic and have play, I have another shop todo so I’ll give the dry method a go.

[Dan]

Thanks Kev

I’ll go ahead and do that then and save material.

Thank you guys.

[Dan]

Metacast is a real cast and to be honest, it’s been ok. I do find it takes me longer to fit than other materials but it has done well but with the price increase, I’d rather go to a better brand.

I like Arlon SLX but that seems a lot more than every other brand for me and not bothered trying to get a better price.

[Dan]

Thanks Rob, I’ll take a look.

[Dan]

Rob

Thank you, thank you, thank you thank you.

Very detailed and exactly what I needed.

I’ll in the process of working out my quote so wish me luck.

[Dan]

Thank you.

[Dan]

Thanks guys.

How long would you estimate for digging 2x 3m poles out and installing new ones. Would you say this is a one day job for two people?

Are there any special tools needed to dig out old posts?

[Dan]

I’ve used 3rd party inks in the past.

Firstly… Inktec, never had one issue but I used these on an old waterbased printer that I wasn’t worried about. All it did was print canvasses and it was perfect for the job.

Secondly… Used another 3rd party from an engineering firm, terrible! Ruined a new head after 1 year but I was sold on a bulk ink system even though they knew my volume was low but I listened to the so called professionals and I was burnt.

Thirdly… Color something. I went with another 3rd party as this one gave warranty and I didn’t want one bad company ‘s experience to put me off especially as this time there was warranty. The ink was fine, never had no issues but the red always puddled, I’m sure I could have tweaked a profile but I needed up going to Nazdar after a recommendation from Kev.

Never had one issue with Nazdar, I think they gave a warranty as well, I think I used them for about 2 years before buying a new printer.

This was on a Roland Versacamm VSi

I now use genuine inks but gone away from Roland and I’m now using an Epson.

[Dan]

Thanks guys. I stuck with 50mm and found a better way to wrap the doors so got around my issue with the excess vinyl.

[Dan]

Not a chance, restart and go again.

I had a day like this Monday, sent over a print, communication error luckily enough not too far into the job. Resent the print and got all the way through, but having issues at the front with static buildup on the front heater panel so I had to keep an eye on it. I’ve put A4 paper there stuck with masking tape for the moment until I can get a better fix.

Finally got the print aligned on the van and it’s too small, never the software had a ‘resize to media’ option ticked on ‘when would you ever want that option?’. Fuming as I printed 2 van wraps, luckily it was only the bonnets and 2 on the side but still 10m lost. Trust me I’ve made sure that option is turned off on everything.

Reprinted the bonnets with the end part of the roll, printed one and I knew I was getting tight but thought I would make it. I checked on the printer halfway through the second bonnet and I could see the cardboard core so I stopped the printing thinking what’s the point as it won’t make it, took the media out and realised that it had more than enough left, the printer decided to unravel a metre which I didn’t’t see.

I had enough at this point.

[Dan]

Thanks guys.

I’ll stick to what I have then, better safe than sorry.

[Dan]

Has anyone been yet?

I could go today but the last few times I’ve been I’ve said to myself never again, it’s the same old stuff with everyone doing the same and nothing really exciting on offer.

It’s been a while due to the pandemic so I’m wondering whether it’s worth going. I don’t need any equipment, I don’t need any tools etc, it’ll purely be a walk around looking at new and hopefully interesting things.

Who’s been and anything different this year?

[Dan]

Nice work again Kev.

[Dan]

Thanks rob, I’ll take a look but your option seems easy enough and more durable.

[Dan]

Thanks guys.

I only need 2x 24mm signs at the moment. There could be more in the future but who knows.

[Dan]

Thanks guys

I’ll go with the 5400 then.

[Dan]

Lol

[Dan]

Thanks guys.

I was thinking Flexi because I run a Graphtec and I know they make the cutting master plugin.

I might look at the upgrade then.

[Dan]

Some great examples there.

I really liked the red ones so I ended up going with them but I keep getting odd looks? They do feel comfy and it makes me a little taller to get to those high to reach places so they’re thumbs up from me.

[Dan]

I also remove the whole lot, as Kevin said, it’s a 5 minute job and saves you so much time applying the graphics.

I’d also remove the hinges if I could lol.

[Dan]

Thanks guys

Its a security firm, I’ve done a few now so I have no choice but to continue. I don’t recall the other vans fading this fast but I will take note for the future.

[Dan]

Hi Rob

Some good tips there.

[Dan]

If the banners are generally the same size, I would buy in the media based on that width so I have less waste.

I tend to buy 1600mm banner, I don’t have much room for storage so I know that will cover everything. If I get a job with a width of 700mm for instance, The banner will be priced as normal and if possible I would throw another job in at the same time so I have little waste, if I don’t have another job, I would offer them a discount if they took a second one and explain why I am offering it.

[Dan]

I have to admit, these jobs scare me.

Funnily enough I have never done one maybe for that reason but I’ve seen so many that are failing where each panel joins maybe from the grease etc.

I’m sure it’s just a matter of giving it a good clean but why do I see so many failures? Surely not everyone fails to clean it properly?

[Dan]

Not sure if these will work on this occasion as they are rather large (25mm holes) but they would do the job, I use them all the time when I have heavy stuff to hang on plasterboard.

https://www.amazon.co.uk

[Dan]

Some really good advice here.

I tried fitting some graphics to a painted wall in my office. PVA’d the wall before hand and left for 48 hours roughly and it failed pretty quickly, I put this down to my mixture. I found High tac the the way to go although I still haven’t completed the job my my tests went on perfect.

I’m pretty sure Metamark have also started producing high tac coloured vinyl.

[Dan]

Thanks for all the feedback.

The hinges are a bit of a pain especially the top one, there is literally no space and the bottom always gets in the way.

I’ll take on board the feedback and see if I can improve my times.

[Dan]

You’re right, so much easier. Found a kit so hopefully that should solve my problem.

[Dan]

Thanks, Rob

Fantastic advise. I worked my prices out a while ago so I know I need to re-look at these but my prices certainly won’t go down. Overheads change, the material goes up, bulls**t tax and you’re right, by the time you’ve calculated all of this I feel I am reasonable.

My rent is certainly higher than a lot of what you pay up north. I only dream of the units some of you have but I can’t afford them not down here anyway. If there were any good units around, they’re all getting sold off to make flats.

Funny thing is, I got quoted on a property couple of years back, I could get the same property 30 – 45 minutes away for half what I was quoted.

[Dan]

Thanks Simon

To be honest with you I think it’s is a little low too. Costs have gone up, material goes up every 5 seconds so I think I need to sit down and have another look at my prices.

I’d rather lose a customer that pays less and spend time on the ones that may what i’m worth.

[Dan]

Thank Tim

I’m not far from that, I was at £399, £50 is neither here nor there.

Thanks, just making sure no one came in at £100 lol

[Dan]

Printed.

Arlon slx / Avery 1105, got both in stock so either of them.

[Dan]

Hate blaming material but I had the same issue with a job when using 1104. Swapped to 1105 and it worked perfectly. never used 1104 again. I originally put it down to an error installing it but used another film and worked perfectly.

[Dan]

I’ve been asked before from a supplier I hardly use.

I certainly won’t pay for a swatch and agree 100% with Kev.

The thing is, if we start buying them then they’ll start doing it every time. If everyone says no then we have the power not the suppliers.

Don’t get me started on their price increases. Some certainly profited from Brexit.

[Dan]

I’m pretty sure in Onyx you can print your Pantone patch along with a few different shades so you can get a close match. I’ve not done this but I’m sure I’ve seen it, maybe in the media manager section.

[Dan]

Well done Rob

You’re right, it does look simple enough, it’s only when you get up close and start laying it down you realise. I’ve had plenty of them and thought **** me, that was a bit harder than I thought.

It’s nice to do something a little different though and at least you had space to work around it.

[Dan]

And there’s me thinking I had to cut around door handles…. This is where I have been going wrong.

That is the worst I have ever seen, back in the 90’s, Dumb and Dumber had the dog van that was far superior to this so I expect more in this day and age.

Is it the body shape of the way they’ve cut it but those arches don’t look symmetrical.

Personally I look at that and think, what does that say about the your brand? It looks cheap and nasty!

[Dan]

I too have the FC9000.

I’ve also had the summa s2 tangential cutter and in my opinion the summa is head and shoulders above the Graphtec build wise.

Why did I pick the Graphtec then?

Convenience! And to be fair I don’t think theres much in it but the cutting master plugin is far better than Summa’s go.

I can cut straight from illustrator without having to transfer to the Pc. This is a great help when I make those silly little errors and i need a quick fix.

I’m a little lost in regards to the barcode though. Onyx add the barcode automatically but I can only seem to cut one at a time. If I add the barcodes in illustrator and use cutting master, I can tell it to keep looking for the barcodes after each job.

This may well be a user issue but I can’t figure it out.

I also have had a few issues and personally I don’t feel like Graphtec take much notice.

My screen randomly goes blank sometimes, I have to restart the machine to get it back.

If I use onyx to cut from cut server and then use cutting master, my step size changes. I suppose I could get around this by setting up another user on the cutter, I believe you can have two users but not worked out how yet.

Sometimes by buttons are unresponsive and maybe a few other issues but all rectified with turning the machine off and on.

I also

Have issues reading barcodes, I’m not sure if this is a user error as I’ve not long had the machine but I always get timed out. Maybe someone can help but If I run some jobs through which are all the same, when I send it to the cutter and hold,do I have to change repeat to I.e 40?

Also, if I have 20 of one job and then 5 of second job then another 5 of the first job again, it won’t scan. If I look at cutting master it says done.

Is it a case that I have to run the job all in one go without jobs in between? I’m not sure

[Dan]

Thanks Rob, I’ll keep a lookout

• This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by  Dan Evans.

[Dan]

Thanks everyone

I need a little more structure than some of you, I need that in my life lol.

@Cian The date thing may work best rather than using 1001, 1002, 1003 etc so I’ll give that a go. I’ll update the post with my finalised structure if anyone else wants to copy.

[Dan]

Thanks you.

How do you keep them in order? Do you put a number before Vehicle / Signs etc?

[Dan]

Hi all

Thanks for the feedback and sorry it’s taken so long to reply, had a job I had to get out and no it wasn’t this one.

The customer has been with me for many years and loyal which made me ask the question and to be honest I want more volume work. He’s generally ok with my prices which makes me think he’s been told he can get the boards cheaper and in all honesty, how loyal are customers at the end of the day.

I’ve made the boards before so I have the design, he normally orders 15 of them, he now wants 75.

I’ve worked out my costs, changed to a cheaper monomeric material and still clearing a profit getting down to the price he wants.

I’ll trim the prints 1mm inside the board so it will be a quick install using my table so I expect to have these made in a day

It keeps my customer happy, I’m still making a profit but I’ll remember the advice for other jobs.

I sometimes get asked the same question with a van, my reply to these is normally the cost is the cost but if it’s the same van and i can do multiple in a day then there will be a discount based on time needed to complete the job.

[Dan]

OK

So I have added an 18mm worktop to the top to give me a solid bench.

After few tests, the table works great. I can now apply vinyl to a board with very little hassle.

I moved the bars to give me a bit more stability but it’s not really helped. To be honest, once the roller is down there is very little play. I have thought about mounting it underneath but I have a support bar in the middle of the table and I don’t want to risk cutting that off as the table is really heavy, if it then bows in the middle I’ll be disappointed.

So far, it’s a 80% complete (unless I change the design) It works but need to add a rubber matt and maybe paint the mdf so it give it a cleaner look.

I’ll add some more images later

[Dan]

Thank guys

It’s certainly a work in progress.

I tested it on Saturday on a small piece of composite but where I raised the laminator up to clear a sheet of 18mm mdf and a 5mm plastic cutting matt, I had too much clearance meaning the roll wasn’t hitting the board.

I had a couple of lengths of wood which I put on the table so the edges on the composite met, I then tried applying some vinyl but unfortunately got wrinkles. I believe this was due to not having anything rigid between the wood.

I’ll add some 18mm mdf to the table top today and see how that goes.

Rob I completely agree with the gantry, first thing I noticed and first thing I wanted to change.

It took me about half a day to make and that included stripping the old laminator down so not bad for a mornings work, I’m sure it’ll take longer tweaking it though.

One thing that has me questioning myself, on the laminator you have the wheels on each side to adjust the pressure which I hate, my main laminator has one wheel and it adjusts both sides and even that annoys me. I’m wondering whether I need this as I have heard of people just using the weight of the roller (which has got a little weight to it)?

[Dan]

Signlab is not available for Macs so that would mean installing parallels on the mac and then installing Windows and then Signlab on that Side. It will work bit it means having Windows and Mac open at the same time and that will slow your computer down.

On another note, Illustrator now has the ability to use a larger canvas, you just need to use inches as your measurement.

In regards to a plugin, I found the same issue an no useful plugin so I setup another computer and sent the files to that. I ended up used Summa GoSign in Windows.

[Dan]

Thanks everyone.

[Dan]

Robert

Thanks for that, is the https://www.vehicleoutlines.co.uk the correct one?
I’ve ordered from them yesterday and questioned the rebrand etc but they had all my details on file.
I even questioned that i.e. Sign Master had the old image and they just rebranded and it’s an old image.

[Dan]

Thanks

[Dan]

Robert

Do you laminate correx boards? asking for a friend lol, personally I don’t bother but sure does make it easier to apply.

I never do mesh banners, am I missing out on a market here. What do you use them for?

Paper? What kind of paper is that and what do you use it for?

[Dan]

Thank you for the detailed post.

I’ll get rid of the open framed led driver, I don’t trust myself.

I’ll have a look at the voltage and make sure it’s all correct.

My table has 2x 1m x 1m squares, I have put a backing on the table which I will attach the leds to and the table is finished with a glass top (which will have a grid patten printed on white film. How many leds are needed for each section to get good lighting so I can use the table as a lightbox?

I’m thinking of putting a strip every 6 inches from top to bottom and stopping it about 3 inches from the sides, would that be ok?

How do you join each strip together, solder wire? What kind of wire would you use?

Finally, as I am using stuff that was here already and not purchased, where is the best place to get leds lights, drivers etc?

On a final note, when it comes to a job, I remember being told I can do all this myself as it’s only 12v as long as I leave a plug on the end so they can plug it in. They can then get their own electrician to wire it in to the mains, is that correct?

Thanks

[Dan]

I managed to get it off.

On the new 2020 version it’s exactly the same as the older type, it was just stuck. The way I got it out is to under the side screw, open the door handle, grab the lock part and gently punch the screwdriver in, I did have to prise it out though.

I did a second door handle yesterday and it came out much easier, had I known how it came out, I wouldn’t have had to waste so much time trying to work it out.

[Dan]

Thank you

[Dan]

I’ve heard a few times that these mats only last a few years before they need replacing, I want a 1.8 x 3m so spending £400 on one I would expect it to last longer than that.

That’s £11 a month, blades are cheaper and glass looks lovely when clean.

[Dan]

Oh no!

I saw the header and didn’t want to open it as I had a feeling what it was going to be.

I loved Chris, he was one of the nicest guys you would ever meet and I am gutted!

When I first started out he took me under his wing and we worked together quite a few times after. He was always fun to work and it was never a boring day.

I knew he wasn’t well and when he told me I felt numb, I just wish I would have reached out to more in the last few months but with Covid and work I just lost track.

It’s a huge loss to the industry and I’ve lost a friend

RIP Chris

[Dan]

Thank you.

I thought it was and you’ve just confirmed it.

Thanks

[Dan]

Thank you

[Dan]

Why is that Jamie? What do you use and do you find your option is better?

I was always cutting master and Versaworks, never really liked the latest cutting master though but had to use it as it was the only 64bit version and mac only runs 64bit now.

I did like the simplicity of using illustrator and just sending the file.

[Dan]

[Dan]

Both very good replies.

Jamie, if you’re getting the material cut down to 1290mm, are you printing at 1370?

I’d like to take full advantage of the width of the printer which is 1600mm but stupidly enough I only got a 1520mm laminator (damn thing was named 1600 and I never checked) so I have to go with that.

[Dan]

Thanks Martyn

I’ll give that a go.

Any technique in removing the white vinyl from the reg marks?

[Dan]

That I would do in air release all day long, it’s too large a job to do in 751 especially as I’m on my own.

David that is exactly how I do it, start at the handle, apply a couple of inches then pull up each corner so it’s tight, I then fit the graphics to the recess, once I hit the recess I work down from the top back to the recess and this seems to work for me.

Once you go from the handle down, you’re fighting the curve of the van on left and right side and it all starts bunching up.

The way I have been tackling this is to fit as much as I can and then release the vinyl from the application tape and start applying it bit by bit, unfortunately you’ll get to a point where the graphic doesn’t match up so you have to trim it.

I’ve done a few and I regret ever suggestion the metallic silver, this is the 8th one i’ve done now and although the customer is happy I’m not.

I have to admit, I’ve done a connect, custom and now courier and the courier was the hardest one of all.

It’s a very time consuming job and far longer than I anticipated.

The silver and red layers and fitted separately, If I could apply the red to the silver before applying then that would save me some time and also give me a bit more stability in the vinyl, I’ll admit using air release would also work better.

So is there a good way to apply vinyl to vinyl?

[Dan]

Hi

It’s not so much the recesses that I am struggling with, it’s the whole graphic.

I agree that air release would be easier, it’s the curvature of the van from top to bottom and side to side, see attached image.

I somehow need to fit this with the app tape attached or do I try fitting it without any app tape seeing as thats my issue, just not sure if that would be any better as the backing paper would surly act the same way keeping it rigid.

Hopefully the image would give you a better idea.

As mentioned, the grey is metallic so I can’t print it.

[Dan]

Thank you.

I’ll install Onyx 12 on my main machine and install the rip on the other just to see what its like.

I will look into the upgrade though.

Thanks

[Dan]

Thanks but that was what I was going with but I think they’ve stopped doing it when I called up the other day.

[Dan]

👍

[Dan]

That’s my thinking and what I am doing at the minute.

[Dan]

The online templates are good for everyday graphics but not for i.e. cutting a recess panels out.

I basically want to print and cut out i.e. a recess panel and apply it straight to the van with no cut tape, no applying a template over the image and cutting it out manually (which I was shown years ago). I simply want to do a quick line ups hold with magnets and apply.

I hope that makes sense, it does in my head lol.

[Dan]

Thanks Rob, that’s helped.

[Dan]

Thanks Rob, I used bubble free in the past and the customer kept taking parts of the lettering out when it was cleaned, it felt like it never bonded 100%. I peeled this off the other day and it came off easily with no signs of glue, I’m talking about a slight pick with my finger nail and off in one go.

[Dan]

Thanks for the reply. I think I’m going to take two with me just incase, I’m gonna put app tape on the whole thing and fit dry and if that fails I will do it wet and peel the app tape later, maybe in the afternoon.

Thanks

Dan

[Dan]

Just went to the film and it is gloss 7510 lol. I could have sworn it was matt.

[Dan]

Thanks, going too try the gloss version.

Dan

[Dan]

That could have been the best product in the world but she lost me when she started using that scraper. There’s actually a follow on video of her applying graphics to a van with a credit card.

[Dan]

Thanks Martin

I tend to advise customers that fading will start around 12 months + but even so I still wouldn’t expect it to fade as much as it has.

I’ve gone back to the supplier with the spec sheet the Rob posted and challenged their response but I don’t expect anything good back. I will note that this was the satin version that Rob mentioned and not the gloss version, perhaps I should look at that.

[Dan]

Relief cut? Where’s that?

[Dan]

I’m talking about the whole unit. If it were just the box, I think I might be tempted to do it outside as it’s just a straight panel after all however the rest of the cab may be tricky to do along with a roof box that sits on top of the cab, I’m already thinking that might just be easier to do in 3 sections.

[Dan]

Hemel Hempstead.

I’ll have a look for some and have a word, you never know as you say.

[Dan]

100% agree with you Kev.

Clutching at straws I think, I’ll have a word with a few friends to see if they know of anything.

[Dan]

Hi John

I’d be interested on how you set the artwork up? I estimate you have about 5-8mm gap between the rear doors which would suggest you have a bleed of around 3-4mm is that right?

You could always work the design to hide the join at the bottom but that depends on the design.

[Dan]

Thanks

[Dan]

Oh wow.

I’m going to test a high tack vinyl and see how that goes. If that works then I’ll print and fit that.

It’s my own wall so for test purposes it’s great although I still hate wasting time.

[Dan]

Oh I didn’t think.

It’s not that I didn’t have the outline, it was more of the case I didn’t have it to hand but I’ll remember that in future.

Thanks Joe by the way, I had it by the time you posted but thanks anyway.

[Dan]

I believe so, I swear company I spoke to who I used to get my ink from said they do it for this or can at least get one for it.

[Dan]

Any special technique?

[Dan]

I did get a price for that but it was too much for what I wanted to pay.

[Dan]

Been quoted £86 for Poli-Print and £141 for 3164

[Dan]

In that order?

[Dan]

Thanks David

I’ll do just that and go with the 3164

[Dan]

Why is that Jamie?

I know the Orajet is thicker but other than that I can’t see any difference and I hate buying on price but it’s £50 a roll cheaper for a 1600 x 50m roll