Yoshi being naughty. Wrapped van roof.

[Leslie Anderson]

shame you are having problems. it looks great, even if I don’t know who yoshi is! ❤ 🤣

[David Hammond]

How do you now know who Yoshi is?

Or perhaps I’m just getting old 👴

[Leslie Anderson]

i have no clue who Yoshi is and im 33 😬🤣

[Tim Hobbs]

Character in Mario Kart.

I only know coz my kids play it.

[David Hammond]

I’m 34, remember playing Mario on the super Nintendo as a kid. Mario & Sonic were massive – or at least seemed it 😂

[Dan]

Hate blaming material but I had the same issue with a job when using 1104. Swapped to 1105 and it worked perfectly. never used 1104 again. I originally put it down to an error installing it but used another film and worked perfectly.

[RobertLambie]

I doubt it will be the GRP that is causing the problem or the silver would be failing also.

I doubt the application method on the recesses is causing it or the silver would be failing too. even though ide say the supreme colour change has the better chance of staying in the recesses as it’s a single colour and not laminated.

I cant tell from the pictures, but…
have another look at your failed areas on the roof. look close at all the “white” areas and see if any part of them has pulled out?
If no areas that are white are showing a fail, then the problem is your out-gassing procedure.
I assume you are using a solvent machine? your outgassing times are fine, but how you let them outgassing is critical.
most loosely coil their prints on end and allow to outgas. but this is not correct.
the solvent is heavier than air and will always fall or sit on the surface if left flat.
when you coil a print, there is no space for it to breath and expel the solvent. the parts that do fall away from the prints are now bunched at the lower section of the coiled print. so they must be elevated slightly to allow it to fall out the bottom.
it is also better to rotate the position. so you flip the coiled prints around after a few hours and shake it loose again. repeating this periodically. sounds like a hassle, I know. but the reality is things like this can and do happen.
the best way I know of is, dropping the prints like a snake in an old clothes horse pully type system. which are easily made.

although I am saying this, it does not mean this is the actual issue. I’m guessing more than anything as I can’t see the actual fail up close to determine anything properly.

[Karen White]

its a shame you had a problem with this Tim. i am not sure if it is an advert or not, but it is really fun and nice looking,

[Tim Hobbs]

Thanks for your comments Rob.

Don’t think that it’s the outgassing though. In fact we had some long metal poles made up that I have attached to the walls of our unit (stone so we are very lucky) rather like banner poles, but I had them made so that they each have a slight upward angle. We can put a full 1350mm cardboard tube on each of them. We drape all of our prints on those, just as you suggested.

I think that I am going to try the Avery 1105 if he fails again. It’s not that much more per bundle. It’s just annoying as they do say in the bumf that it is for 3D applications, rivets etc (1104 that is)

Thanks Karen – this one was for a private individual (often more discerning bless ’em)

[RobertLambie]

If the outgassing and manufacturing process has been done spot-on, you may have to revisit the technique. NOT that I am saying it has been fitted wrong. But more so, maybe the vinyl requires a bit more attention in the recessed areas.

Averys adhesive system elevates the adhesive coating, similar to 3M control-tac.
To make sure the actual adhesive coating is in full contact in a recess, more pressure is required to collapse the beads/pyramids/air channels of the vinyl. I use a pressure wheel regardless of the adhesive system or brand of vinyl. I have attached the testimonial video i done for Arlon, you will see i even use the wheel in this whilst applying heat at 2.30mins. you want the vinyl as hot as a fresh cuppa tea while you apply. once you have completed the entire recess, go back and post-heat right after.

What I will say though, is that the vinyl should be more than capable of doing this job and if you have ticked all the boxes throughout your process. You need to consider “has the vinyl failed?” If you look at the attached, it clearly states it is up to the job, and some!
in the attached image, you will see red lines. you could actually fold the vinyl in and out of the recesses without in tension created at all. easier if you had a second pair of hands, but you could go as far as to fold in and out the whole thing, meaning a decent polymeric would do the job!

maybe even consider more time on cleaning the silver supreme vinyl recesses a bit more too, or even use 3M primer. which is not what I ever advise but it’s vinyl onto vinyl and not painted body work.

I am just giving these suggestions because, like you, Tim. It’s very odd for it to happen with the print vinyl while the wrap below is in perfect condition. must be frustrating to say the least.
best of luck, would be good to hear how you get on with it. 👍

https://youtu.be/RsosJ8gkoNE

[Tim Hobbs]

Thanks again Rob

All good advice. I did use a pressue wheel in fact.

I always do these days on recesses with any media. Don’t trust my finger pressure anymore.

LOL.

I am in the habit of post heating quickly but not immeadiately, as you should wait a little for the glue to activate. Then warm a second time and use a pressure wheel again. We are talking half an hour later as I have found through experience, if you heat too quickly you get expansion bubbles.

Couldn’t really fold in and out on this one as, to be honest, just couldn’t reach across and hold the media and squeegee at the same time. Really awkward. Shouldn’t really have to do that with this media. I have been using 1104 for a long time now with zero failures. Maybe some contaminate worked it’s way in there. I’ve applied a third time now. Touch wood no failure as yet. If it does though, I will try the 1105 media, just to rule it out.

[RobertLambie]

I guess everyone has their methods and reasons for how they do recesses mate, and if it works, then all good.
the reason I do mine this way is because if you heat and stretch a bit of vinyl and watch it cool. it retracts by itself naturally. this starts “instantly”, even though not always visible to the naked eye. the retraction causes a progressive tension in the recess and an increase of pull on the grip of the adhesive. most repositionable vinyls have a low initial bond and takes 24-48hrs to reach their optimal bond. So you have two things happening, one is taking its time to do its job, the other is racing towards a fail. The way to help prevent it, is to quickly remove the memory of the vinyl after it has been applied by heat, while continuing the heat process, apply pressure with the wheel to make sure the adhesive is key’d to the surface properly with no air channels. then complete by taking the vinyl all the way to 100 degrees to remove the memory. because your always applying heat soon after each process the post-heating is faster.