Wrapping a digital print on rear van doors

[RobertLambie]

Hi Dan

i think I understand what you are saying mate, but not sure if i am misreading what your asking…
Granted, an experienced wrapper will have his process for installing vans and cars, but the reality is, every vehicle and printed design throws new obstacles in our way on a daily basis.

The first of a batch of vehicles is always the longest, and like most things they get faster the more you do. unfortunately, we do not all get the luxury of fleets, so every vehicle is a new time-consuming task.

what you have said is fine, but I wouldn’t have both doors aligned and taped or held by magnets, alongside the other one “while I work”.
yes, by all means, tape both into place to check everything is lining up as you want. not just in the middle where the doors meet but also possible alignment from the sides onto the back.
once I’m sure things will align, ill work on one panel, one door, and then move onto the other door.

now all this said, we haven’t even started on removals of badges, handles, plates and more. these are just another joy that is thrown at us by the customer who gives zero thought or consideration to them when prices are given.

[David Hammond]

Here’s how I do it:

Magnet both panels on the van, and make sure they line up, with sufficient overlap to cover the seam. Apply the first door, usually the one with shortest wrap around, then hang the 2nd one ensuring it aligns with the first one, and apply the 2nd door.

Trouble if you don’t have the overlap on the door join is there’s nothing to wrap around the close.

Where possible like this transit I try make the joins as easy as possible, we lined up the vertical split in the pattern with the door edge, and we’ll fit all the text and logo’s onto of the base wrap.

Even on a good day, with a colour change wrap, I find rear doors can take a bit of time, the transits particularly.

[Kevin Mahoney]

Dan, this sounds like a really awkward method to me mate. I import the design for the back doors as 1 & crop it leaving an extra 2 inches past the door join. I then mark dots on the right hand door & install door 1 (usually the most difficult one). I then repeat the process for door 2. You can do either door first but I prefer to get the tricky one done & out the way.

[Tim Hobbs]

Hi Dan

What an interesting topic, I’m looking forward to everyone’s replies and different views on method.
I would agree with all the points that Rob and David have made above.

As Rob said, every wrap is different as is every wrapper. Confidence is key and at the end of the day if your method gives you that ease of mind it’s only going to lead to a better end result.

Here’s my half-penny-worth though. There are a few points that I think apply to any rear door wrap.

Personally, I too would only ever apply the print in two separate parts.

I like to have an overlap where each print meets in the middle of at least 50mm, that way you have room for error. You can move either print fractionally to the left or the right and always end up with the vertical split between the two doors where YOU want it to be.

As the guys have said, I would line the prints up with magnets to make sure that the prints are aligned then fit my first choice of side. Usually, as David said, the part with the close comes second for me. Your 50mm or so of extra print allows you to wrap in enough to cover that internal bit.

I find that with most vans, the rear bumper will get in the way when you get to the bottom of the door. For that reason, when fitting this bottom part, I prefer to have the door open. If it’s a colour change wrap, I will open the door fully and fit the panel in one go, backing paper right off. Obviously, you can’t do that when you have to line up two separate prints, so I tend to hinge the graphic fitting the top half first, down to about the door handle but always past the recess. I leave the backing paper on the bottom half until I have fitted the top part, including the recess. Then I trim around the top half, so that the door can be opened. This makes the bottom half much easier to fit in my view.

When fitting the graphic, either side, it’s important to use very little or no heat at all. Other than in the recess of course, It’s a good idea not to stretch the vinyl in any way so that the second side matches. Normally I will fit a recess first but in the case of one of these rear wraps, I will make sure that the points of contact immediately above and below the recess are tacked immediately so that the print is not stretched. A good media is paramount, I think. Something that does not grab too hard.

I also like to have at least 300mm of extra vinyl on the outside edges of either print. Even if the design itself doesn’t allow that I insist that the prints are not trimmed to edge of the design on the side. Leave the white on. The reason for that is, I think that the most difficult area is often where the hinges meet the panel. A bad wrapper* uses heat in these areas leading to glue lines, stretching of the print or shrinkage when the vinyl is trimmed around the hinge. For that reason, I like to fit that area entirely cold. Holding the vinyl out at often more than 90 degrees to the fitting edge so that it can be tucked into the vertical side of the hinge. Then I will relief-cut above and below the hinge but only when I can see exactly where the gap is. I can’t use this method with only a few mm of vinyl to play with on the edge. You really need that excess to do it this way. Sounds like a pain I know but whenever I scrutinize someone else’s rear door wrap I always look at that area.

Also, don’t forget to leave yourself plenty of bleed on the top where the van has the type of doors that go up and over the top. Sounds obvious but it’s easily missed at the artwork stage when laying a graphic onto a template. I speak from experience. My guys forgot with the very example that I have attached and there is an area of white outside of the graphic on the top, not very much and you can’t see it but still annoys me.

That’s my main views. As always I’m looking forward to comments from others and learning from them.

Good luck mate and happy wrapping.

* in my opinion. These views are entirely my own and do not represent Robert Lambie or UK Signboards in general. I heartily endorse their product and think that they are awesome.😊

[David Hammond]

Yep hinges on the Transit custom drive me potty. A close second is chasing the fingers around the registration plate recess 😂

[John Hughes]

We join the print on the bench and apply in one piece. No stress then on lining up the artwork on the van.

Apply top half first to just below the panel then the bottom half. Apply all the way down the centre, slice and then open the doors to apply the bottom of the doors – helps avoiding the bumper getting in the way.

We normally strip the handle, number plates etc off

John

[Dan]

Hi John

I’d be interested on how you set the artwork up? I estimate you have about 5-8mm gap between the rear doors which would suggest you have a bleed of around 3-4mm is that right?

You could always work the design to hide the join at the bottom but that depends on the design.

[Dan]

Thanks for all the feedback.

The hinges are a bit of a pain especially the top one, there is literally no space and the bottom always gets in the way.

I’ll take on board the feedback and see if I can improve my times.