[Myles Brewer]

I thought I should come back to this thread having completed the job some time ago now & it all went perfectly to plan in the end, just using Avery 2800 with matt laminate. Customer was very happy & hopefully there will be more to come now too. 👍

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks for the comments Rob & Jeff.

Just a quick update having just received the artwork they want to put on them.

It’s thankfully not a metallic finish so no problem there & no need for any white ink etc.

My only issue now that I really should have thought about before. Whilst I can print onto 1520mm wide vinyl it suddenly occurred to me that my laminator is only 1400mm wide!!🤣😭 Dohhh!!

So I’m back to either using 1370mm rolls & having a large amount of waste or possibly getting a 1520mm roll cut in half & tiling each of the panels where the joints are!!

[Myles Brewer]

It’s an odd one really as yes they do look good when done I think & there is a sense of satisfaction too when finished. Certainly having any indoor space would make working far more enjoyable/comfortable. I really regret not building a garage/workshop when we built the house but at the time we really didn’t have the budget & since the costs have rocketed so have just never been able to do it.

The blow-ups are a great solution for sure but I think it would end up becoming a permanent fixture as taking it down & finding somewhere to store it when quite possibly still wet could be an issue! I’d really need to build a shed/garage to store it in!!🤔& I’m pretty sure my other half wouldn’t be a fan of it outside our kitchen window permanently!!🤣

I’ve managed around the weather for the last 20 years so it is possible, I’ll just keep dreaming!😁

Sadly the BMW is for a new customer & not the good one I did the Land Rovers for. So I’ve just let him know my issues around weather etc. & suggested he try elsewhere this time. With something like this, I really think they do need to be 100% dry otherwise water wicks back out of the little seams when the vinyl hits them no matter how hard you try to dry them & in this climate at this time of year if it’s outside it will never dry.

I think I’m feeling the relief already having let this one go!😁

[Myles Brewer]

Ha! Ha! I had a feeling I might be disturbing a hornet’s nest with this subject!! It was bound to bring up the global warming debate & for myself I’m 100% with Simon on this. I find it hard to understand how people are still denying it’s existence!!

I realise that the planet naturally cycles between ice ages & warming, but in planetary timescales this should be happening at a snails pace, but what we are seeing now is happening at lightspeed & it seems an incredible coincidence that it’s happening very shortly after humanity’s explosion in population & industrialization over the last couple of centuries.

When you simply think of the billions of manmade chemical products that line every single isle of every single shop & supermarket on the planet & most of them for cleaning or washing & all get washed into the water system. How can this possibly not be having an effect on the planet?? Not to mention all the other aspects of our daily polluting lives!

Now I’m no tree-hugging greeny & am as guilty as the next person of sheeping along with my eyes closed. BUT I do feel that what is happening before our eyes right now is not a natural blip that will go away in a few years, It’s a runaway train heading right at us.

Even if it wasn’t actually CAUSED by us & was part of a natural cycle, it seems that we have some of the knowledge & ability, IF everyone was on board, to pull on the train’s brakes to slow it down & even potentially reverse it!

Surely it must be better to at least try to grab the brake lever to slow it down?? Yes it may well snap off in our hands, but the alternative is to ignore it completely & just hope the wind blows enough leaves onto the track to slow it down enough that it doesn’t pulverize us into a pulp when it finally hits us!!

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Guys & thanks to you all for your replies. Apologies on my part for not responding but I was up the wall (Literally & metaphorically!!🤣) at the time & for some reason didn’t get the usual email alerts to let me know of your replies.

Anyway, in the end I decided that it was best to go with mounting the graphics onto 2.5mm Polycraft sheets with double sided tape on the back. This made it much easier to make sure the alignment was perfect initially in the workshop & then fitting onsite was also much easier with a second pair of hands (The wife 😄) to hold in place whilst removing the tape strips.

The walls were actually smooth newly built partition stud walls primed. The curve wasn’t really too extreme on any of them (there were 3 in total) & it wasn’t a consistent radius either. I probably could have used the high tack but any slight mistake would have been disastrous as if you tried to lift off to adjust it would just rip the primer off the surface so really too risky.

I have plenty of experience doing similar sized graphics on flat walls, windows etc. so it was really just the curve that threw me here. So thanks again for all your suggestions.

Here are some pics of the finished job now & actually the wall with Biden on will actually have a load of framed photos going on it at either end, hence why the image was faded out like it is.

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Karen,

I would think most suppliers would cut a 1220mm roll down to whatever sizes you want but usually you need to order a complete roll so for example 2 x 610mm or 4 x 305mm.

MDP sell it as individual sections though so if you only want 1 x 610mm right down to 2″ width you can.

[Myles Brewer]

Sorry to ask again but what temp do you guys set your heat guns at when post heating?

[Myles Brewer]

Does anyone know if they would work with the clear plastic grommets?

[Myles Brewer]

It was actually myself that was resurrecting this old post in order to ask Martyn Heath how he’d got on re his post above.

Hi Martyn,

Just wondering how you got on with this, what you used in the end & has it lasted?

I have just been asked to do exactly the same onto a slightly textured tiled changing room floor so would be interested in how yours turned out.

[Myles Brewer]

That’s great thanks Cian & Rob. Hopefully should be able to get them sorted with one of them.

Thanks for the help 👍

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Leslie,

Everyone here was also a newbie once & we’re all still learning every day, so don’t worry how daft you think your question sounds, ask away.👍

I tend to do the same as Pane & let the print run down to the take-up.

If you’re careful you can tape it quite accurately onto the core so it won’t run off.

I let it run past & in front of the core by about 300mm & then gently push the vinyl back over the core so the leading edge is just in front & the vinyl starts to loop slowly behind. With both hands on the vinyl resting on top of the core & looking at where it butts up to the black end stop on the right of the take-up you can adjust it until you see it’s running level with the end stop & core. When you have it level just tape it to the core. Then use the manual downwards take-up buttons to wind it onto the core & get the loop back in front of the core. Then you just load in the bouncer bar & press the auto take-up switch 2 (with the anti-clockwise arrow) & away you go.

So long as you get it reasonably straight it won’t be an issue even on 10’s of metre runs.

[Myles Brewer]

Sorry for delay replying & thanks all for the feedback & advice here lads.

It’s most definitely those arches that worried me most! As David says the rest is relatively flat & boxy & I think given time & patience should be perfectly doable especially if I can remove as much as possible beforehand.

Yes I will have be able to use the guy’s shed for fitting. It’s not the cleanest & warmest of sheds but I can create a clean work area & get a blow heater to improve the temperature.

I definitely like the idea of splitting it for the arches & having a join along the natural body lines & the mix of matt & gloss is also a great idea. Just wondering would you continue that back to the main cab & doors as that body line does continue back? i.e. door bottoms gloss & anything above matt or would that look odd do you think?

Would anyone hazard a very vague guess at an approx. cost for doing something like this??

[Myles Brewer]

That’s definitely thinking outside the phonebox!!🤣😊.

Very inventive & inspirational! It’s amazing how blindly we go about our daily lives & don’t see these obvious opportunities!. Nice one Rob👏

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Colin, will give that a shot, fingers crossed.🤞

Will let you know how I get on when I get back to it.

[Myles Brewer]

You’re a genius Colin!!👏 That seems to have done the trick along with a different profile with 16 pass & 70 vacuum.👍. Just the job & thanks for the help.

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Colin, No it isn’t & from previous similar experience with certain papers even that doesn’t seem to cure the issue. I didn’t want to go that route due to waste & it being an expensive media, but can try adding a bit of cheapo monomeric as a leader I guess.

Russel, Unfortunately, you can adjust the head height on the 365 as far as I’m aware.

[Myles Brewer]

I believe Roy is just looking for someone that can help him manufacture his house sign idea in large quantities. He obviously thinks his idea is original & unique & as such doesn’t want to expose it to all & sundry yet until he has some sort of copyright on the design (presuming that has been applied for?)

Although Roy you say this is essentially a sign & that is why you joined this forum looking for manufacturing support, you mention that the production is “uncomplicated metal spinning & finishing”. I have to say this piqued my interest having never heard of metal spinning. A quick Google later I am now enlightened to this unusual & fascinating process (Always nice to learn something new👍), but I fear it is probably not in the scope of the majority of sign companies & would think it would more likely be an engineering company project, or possibly a combination of the two if you can find any that might work together?

Unfortunately, it’s not something I could help you with but would be intrigued to see it when you manage to get it made. Good luck.

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Martyn,

So long as the original is sound & it’s not overly long term (Eventually the adhesive on the first job will degrade) you should be fine. Regarding show through I guess it will depend on the opacity of the new vinyl & what the original print is like. i.e. if there are dark colour areas with a sudden transition to light then it’s possible it will show through. Avery currently do a HOP (High opacity) range which are perfect for this sort of application & have clear adhesive rather than the usual grey which means it’s also great for reverse print window graphics.

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Martyn & John,

That settles that then, powder coat it is.

Do you have any info on what type (thermoplastic or thermoset) & class of powder coatings either of you use?

One company I got a quote from (actually a double glazed window manufacturer) said they use class 1 but I’m not certain which type they use, I suspect thermoset is the most common?

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks all. That’s generally great news & think it will at least be worth giving it a go. I’ve located one of the Trend V groove bits specifically for composite which has the flat bottom.

The mess I’m not overly worried about as I’ll most likely be doing it either outdoors if larger sheets or in the shed if smaller & will probably attach a vacuum to take the bulk of mess away.

My main issue is having a decent flat surface. Up till now if I’ve had to deal with 10x5ft sheets it’s been a case of laying a 10×5 pallet on the gravel drive & hey presto, that’s my workbench!! Ha Ha! Ohh to have a decent sized workshop.

I actually have one of the Aldi routers I bought years ago & wondered if that would do but it only takes 6 & 8mm spindles & has 1200w motor which I know is no good for the worktops so I was looking at one of the Trend T7 Routers which should be fine from what I can see for both jobs.

I agree David Hammond to a degree about the faff & cost saved etc. but when you add in the cost of either collection or delivery of them then it certainly should be worth it & once done a few times the setup will become easier I’m sure.

David Stevenson, Thanks for that link, that’s quite informative

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Karen,

You could also try Vector Magic. You can just drag & drop your files onto their webpage & it will automatically convert it with a few adjustable settings available depending on the quality of the image & output. They also have a desktop version you can download for a fee with extra functions.

I generally use Flexi 19 which has great tracing features but occasionally if time is short Vector Magic can be handy & cheap.

[Myles Brewer]

OK, just thought I’d update this for anyone else that may be wondering the same in future. Having done a test print on Ritrama O series silver using a regular gloss vinyl profile it seems to have printed very well. I’ll be laminating it with a polymeric gloss for protection, so hopefully should last a few years. I may ask the customer to update me if they remember in a few years time

[Myles Brewer]

I’d be interested to know if anyone here has attempted to wrap the mirrors on a T5 Transporter (pre-facelift versions) & if so how were they done & what vinyl was used?

I’ve tried twice to do my own, first with 3M carbon & then Avery Supreme wrap. Had a join up the inside to avoid overstretching but both failed after a short while. It may well be down to my technique as I’m not a regular wrapper. I’ve done a few full van backs but that’s about it. I made sure they were spotlessly clean & post heated the **** out of them, but still no luck.

[Myles Brewer]

@Phil-Caddock

Hi Phil,

I just stumbled across this old post & am just wondering if by any chance you might have a vector file of the bonnet stripes for a 2013 Mini One D?

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Simon,

Tec 7 actually do a product called Xtack which is much thicker in consistency to regular similar silicone adhesives. It’s so thick in fact that you really do need to purchase their application gun as trying to use the cheap bog standard guns will end up in frustration & a bent gun!! I actually thought the stuff had gone off when I first bought it & called Tec 7 to complain!

It’s about twice the price but it doesn’t sag or droop & you really don’t need much so less chance of it pushing out. They do it in black & white.

It’s fantastic generally even for much heavier stuff if you need to avoid visible fixings.

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Gordon, I usually try & make a feature of a join by using either straight or wavy gap lines, sometimes adding multiple gap then frosted lines of a reducing thickness. Or else maybe introducing a logo into the design along a split line.

[Myles Brewer]

That’s ok then so long as its meant to sound like that!
Yeah seems like any of the accessories are mental prices! I was looking at the media flanges that help keep it running straight on long runs & they’re £260!!!

I think I have an original knife somewhere for the old machine actually so might see if I can find it & give it a go

[Myles Brewer]

Crickey Simon!! Think I’d have had a heart attack if I’d have done that & heard that noise!!! Is it meant to do that??
I have mine here & all set up now & appears to be working great although the general noises it makes are a little disconcerting compared to the older one! Mainly when the blade is up & the pen carriage tracks any larger distance across the plotter. It tends to make a fairly loud groaning type noise!!

Having read through the user manual a bit now, I’m wondering what the difference is between a perf cut & pouncing? Looks like you can get a pouncing tool but presume it does the same as a regular blade?
I, like David only have the smart knives so not sure they are ideal for perf cutting as it’s a set depth blade.

[Myles Brewer]

quote David Hammond:

Cheers Simon, I’ll do some experimenting with it. Previously when we did perf cuts we pre cut the path, then cut again with the perf cut your way sounds quicker and easier.

Smart knives dont have an adjustable blade, they’re a fixed depth, just drop them in and away you go.

Myles, both our FC’s have been great, had to have the solenoid replaced on our 8600, that was in warranty and the engineer was mythed, having never seen one fail before.

Does your older plotter have conditions?

You can preset conditions(speed, pressure, etc) for different media.

Yes David, there are conditions but only two, one for a pen & the other for the blade so it’s pretty limited. But obviously within the blade settings you can adjust speed, force etc.

The 8600 just arrived this morning so just need to give it a quick look over. I did notice the blades actually are different from the CE but it has 4 spare so no worries there.

Out of interest do you or anyone else out there run it on Windows 10? I’m still on 7 Pro 64bit but will eventually have to update & I didn’t see Win 10 mentioned anywhere in the spec but wonder if that may be that 10 wasn’t out when the spec for the 8600 was originally written?

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Peter,
Give Papergraphics a try too. I got my 365 from them in January & very impressed with their communication & service & they beat Granthams & everywhere else I tried on price. They organised shipping to Republic of Ireland & flew an engineer over to install & get me up & running all cheaper than anywhere else! :praiseyou:

Have to say I’m impressed with the 365 over the 26500 too. I only realised how worn & old the 26500 was when I started using the 365. It definitely uses less ink & electric too & the scratch resistance is way better meaning you really don’t have to laminate everything. The only thing so far I was a little disappointed in was I had the impression it ran cooler but being sat in front of it when it’s printing a long run on a warm day is like being in Greece on a breezy summer day 😆 😆

You do also tend to need to feed the media a little way through the curing zone before you start printing otherwise it can catch the top with the leading edge & either smear the ink before it starts drying or pucker up on the platen & end up with a head crash. A bit of a pita but once you’re in a routine of doing it it’s no problem really.

I also had an email from HP about 2 days ago about current new offers of 3k trade in & 2k discounts so it would be a good time to be looking.

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Simon/David,
That’s great news. I had a feeling it would & can’t wait to get my hands on it now, it will be light years ahead of my old trusty steed in so many ways I think.

I had it at max 28 force & it wouldn’t go through the PET. You’re right that it’s not that thick as such it’s just a tougher material. I didn’t actually try a 2nd pass, mainly as the CE’s main issue is accuracy & I think it would struggle to hit the exact same mark a 2nd time

I was looking forward to trying out the perf cut option too, a great idea if you can get it to work.

Yes David, the old one uses the very same smart knives which I was amazed at to be honest. I’m not sure I’ll mothball it totally for a while till I at least get used to the new one & it’ll always be a handy standby should there be any issues with the 8600!!

I’d seriously doubt the 8600 will still be going strong in 20 years time!! 😆 😆 I’d love to know how many metres have gone through the CE & it’s never had a single issue, bar changing cutting strip & pinch rollers. If the 8600 is half as reliable I’ll be happy.

My biggest issue is where to put it! It looks like it’s going in the guest room at the moment! :yikes: Herself is not impressed with yet another large mechanical device in our home! :awkward:

[Myles Brewer]

I’ve just had a couple of orders for covid floor graphics & grappled with the same dilemma of which type product to go with. Textured vinyl/PET with no need to laminate or standard vinyl with anti slip laminate.
My concerns were as Rob states but having trawled through different brands spec sheets & spoken to manufacturers (Kernow Coatings re floorshark & Drytac re their new Polar floor PET.) I was convinced & purchased the Drytac. Have just printed on HP365 latex & am NOT 100% confident in the scratch resistance of the black!! Now being that most covid signage is black & yellow makes this a potential issue!
It may be a case of tweaking the profile a little (Drytac don’t yet have one as the product is so new to market, but suggested what the thought were suitable settings).
I feel my choices now are to warn my customer that it there are any issues with them that I will replace with a laminated product or else actually laminate the PET with a non slip laminate to protect them & say nothing!! But I’ve already cut them so this would have to be done individually …aarrrggghh!
Beginning to think I made the wrong choice!

Luckily I know the customers well & think I’ll just say keep an eye on them & see what happens.

I know I’m going to be getting a good few more enquiries for floor graphics so need to get this sorted.
Bearing in mind these will all need to be removed at sometime in the not too distant future & preferably without leaving a heap of adhesive residue behind, but also they need to stick well!!
Does anyone have any tried & tested brands/options that fit the bill.
(& that work on latex preferably [emoji106][emoji4])

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Jean, I’ve not actually used the floorshark but have a sample of the wallshark (actually exactly the same product just rebranded for wall use) I’ve not printed on it yet but I have used a few other media from Kernow Coatings & they tend to be very good & high end products so I can’t imagine you’d have any issues with it.

[Myles Brewer]

I was advised a couple of years back by a manufacturer of a paste the wall product to use the zinnser bullseye 123 (water based) primer. Did about 50 metres of wall with it in a commercial situation & its still looking good now & no problem with peeling or anything.

I’d be interested to know if anyone here has tried Kernow Coating’s Wallshark media? Looks very good. 100% won’t shrink, sticks well but easily removed.

[Myles Brewer]

quote Hugh Potter:

thanks guys, will check out.

i used to have a link for a company that did 50billion different profiles in aluminium and upvc but cannot find it now!

Hi Hugh,
Try MKM Extrusions in Cornwall

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Ian,
I had this too & unfortunately nothing you can do other than "update all" to Enhanced Stochastic.
Not sure why they did it or really how much difference it actually makes to be honest.

[Myles Brewer]

quote Myles Brewer:

I agree with you all that it’s best to have something & I seriously doubt my fuse board would have anything built in as I’m working from home so it’s a regular domestic board!
I do have the regular surge protection extensions for the basic electronic devices & a ups for the PC.
But the printer is different as it uses those blue 16amp sockets!! I did ask the electrician who fitted the sockets & he just very helpfully said it should be fine!!!
Does anyone have surge protection that works on these sockets? Or know how to get around it?

This type socket

[Myles Brewer]

I agree with you all that it’s best to have something & I seriously doubt my fuse board would have anything built in as I’m working from home so it’s a regular domestic board!
I do have the regular surge protection extensions for the basic electronic devices & a ups for the PC.
But the printer is different as it uses those blue 16amp sockets!! I did ask the electrician who fitted the sockets & he just very helpfully said it should be fine!!!
Does anyone have surge protection that works on these sockets? Or know how to get around it?

[Myles Brewer]

quote David McDonald:

Hi all

It must be at least 10+ years old and not in the best condition but if someone has the time to sort it out and possibly buy some new cutting wheels for alicomp then it will likely be OK for a few more years of cutting yet. Cuts PVC, alicomp etc. Wall mounted not free standing.

Collection from Chorley, Lancashire, Mon-Fri 9-5:30, and it will need part dissembling to fit in most vans.

Free to first person to collect – all we ask is a few packets of biscuits.

Absolutely no guarantee, warranty, and no money (biscuits) back !!

Otherwise its in the skip at the end of year clear out.

Cheers
Dave

Hi David, just wondering what are the dimensions height & width when fitted together?
Would it fit in swb transporter when disassembled?
Would you be able to meet on Saturday? Considering ferry Belfast to liverpool.

[Myles Brewer]

quote Iain George:

quote Myles Brewer:

Do you have soft proof turned on or off?

Self taught here, what is soft proof?

Ha Ha! Me too, don’t worry about it :smiles: & I might be wrong as I use Flexi so it may not be on your software, but it’s an option in the "view" tab that converts screen colours to simulate print output colours. toggling it on or off can make a massive difference I find in Flexi.

[Myles Brewer]

Do you have soft proof turned on or off?

[Myles Brewer]

quote Martin Oxenham:

Yes I use the wrap cut myself, but this is for stuff sent out to a customer who wants to fit himself.

Ahhhh! yes, I see. I guess sending out a roll of tape with it wouldn’t be ideal then 😆 Hope the dimensions help so.

[Myles Brewer]

I actually tend to always use cut line tape for flooded panels now as it saves any slight discrepancies in the outlines which as you say aren’t really accurate enough to cut from.

Years ago I did start making a few templates with leftover silicone backing paper & kept them handy only to find I’d never get the same van again!! :bangshead: So gave up & went for the cut line instead. :thumbsup:

[Myles Brewer]

quote Martin Oxenham:

Thanks Myles…. I have 1450 But I have the very centre as 578 Is this OK or too big ?

If I was being pedantic I’d say 573mm but to keep it on the flat 570mm, here’s pic with magnetic measure

[Myles Brewer]

quote Martin Oxenham:

Thanks very much, I have all those but their not accurate enough. It has to be cut to the panel size. I can make it to fit the double doors but need to know if the same one will fit the lift up door.

Hi Martin,
1450x570mm Just measured mine, it’s a 2004 T5 tailgate with panel (not glass). Let me know if you need the side panels (SWB)

[Myles Brewer]

quote Luke Culpin:

I’ve laminated all kinds of things immediately! I’ve not seen any issues after in the 6 months I’ve had the machine. If the print was for a vehicle wrap I would certainly leave the print a good time before laminating. I can only vouch that going from the latex 260 to Epson is a no brainer, I can’t see anybody being disappointed. Once you’ve got one, I don’t think anybody will beat your print quality either!
Feel free to ask any further questions!

I don’t actually do wraps here anyway at the moment so that certainly wouldn’t be an issue. How do you find the vinyl handling as I’ve heard people say about the way solvent makes it very stretchy & chewing gum like if laminated too soon?

I presume you aren’t using it in a confined space or without ventilation are you? How would you feel if you had to work sitting next to it for several hours whilst printing? I’ve had reps saying it might just have a slight odour, but no more than the smell of the vinyl on a latex due to the heat but I’m not convinced.

I definitely don’t doubt the quality of the printing, build quality & customer service of the Epson & I think they will be grabbing a large share of the market in the near future, It’s the fitting it in & the ventilation are my biggest issues.

[Myles Brewer]

100% agree with you Hugh. I’m in identical situation here! Bought mine 2nd hand 3yrs ago on 5yr loan so have 2yrs still to pay!!
I had heard a rumour as far back as beginning of the year they may do this, following on from doing same to 25500!! So I’ve been proactively looking since & weighing up my options in the hope I could beat HP to it & at least be able to get a few quid for mine before it becomes obsolete!!
I have been sorely tempted by the epson as Luke & a few others have given glowing reviews, but my issues are very similar to yours Hugh in that I really don’t have space to leave vinyl outgassing (to be discussed further anon) & front loading is almost essential as I’m working in a 5×3.5m bedroom & I really don’t think I can get the epson in if I have to get behind to load it!! Well physically I might but my workstation may have to go outside the front door!!!. & the other issue is working in such a small space next to a solvent machine with only a window for ventilation!! I know its eco but not convinced it’s good for my health!!
My final issue is I’ve managed to get a grant to help pay for a new machine but for the application I pushed the eco friendly advantages of latex so not sure how I’d stand now if I went & bought an eco solvent!!

Back to outgassing epson prints, has anyone any long term experience with any prints laminated immediately? I.e. could it be safe to assume that if no short term issues have been noticed that a 3-4yr old print will not fail prematurely due to lack of outgassing?
Do you not suffer the other effects of laminating too soon, like stretchy chewing gum like vinyl??

I am so very close to going with a new 365 now & trying to get in before Brexit! (To avoid potential import duty to Ireland) so if anyone can answer my issues above re Epson I might yet be swayed.

Hugh, have you enquired about business expansion Grant’s? Not sure if anything similar is Available in uk now?

[Myles Brewer]

Just a quick update on this. I managed to fix what I think was the main leak which was coming from the rubber seals that lead into the printheads. Just removed them, cleaned up & superglued them back in. Have printed about 30m or so this week & no signs of the cyan leak so far so fingers crossed. I did, however, notice a very small amount of black now in the base of the carriage. I think probably due to the tubes rotating on the joiners as the unit was moved out of the way to access the bottom of the carriage & as the tubes are aged & hardened they are obviously not a great seal any more.

My intention now is to source replacement spurious tubing & I’m wondering if anyone on here may know the internal diameter of the tube? I could remove one of them but fear it won’t go back on without disintegrating.

[Myles Brewer]

quote Kevin Busby:

Makes sense same head and same ink line giving issues probably due to the same reason.

Never had this issue as I didn’t do the milage on mine but I’m pretty sure they are changed on one of the service as I thought I can remember mine being changed. Might be worth asking one of the dealers for a old one that you can clean and use, apart from that cannot really help buddy.

Kev

Hi Kevin,
Yeah, I think it’s perhaps been waiting to happen & seems it’s a common enough issue. I actually just turned down the offer of an old 26500 with a 25500 for spares for €1000 because I simply don’t have room to store them, but they are both even older & more used than mine so doubt they’d be much use to be honest & I’m really just putting off the inevitable.
I just need to keep mine going for a bit longer if I can.

Bleeding the air out I think is my main issue by the look of it. I’m just off to the vets with the dog so may see if I can get a syringe from them whilst I’m there.
Anyone got any tips on bleeding the air? Do I need to do it before I turn it on again or after so it pressurizes or will that just fill my printheads with air?

[Myles Brewer]

quote Luke Culpin:

I think you will get away with running the machine still, ours spat out quite a lot of ink, but actually still printed ok! I didn’t rely on that and quickly ordered the replacement machine!

On a separate note, check out the Epson before you make your decision! I nearly carried on with latex, but so glad I didn’t! Print quality is far far superior, total different league to be honest! Speed is quicker plus white and metallic inks! Plus outgassing times are said to be 4 hours! I’ve actually laminated something nearly straight away with no issues! As well, I think the Epson is quite a lot cheaper than the latex!

Speak to Richard at Sedo for a demo!

I did wonder about the Epsons & I know there’s a lot of interest in them but my situation of printing at home in what’s basically a bedroom (ground floor) I think solvent inks are not ideal especially as I sit about 12" from it when it’s printing a lot of the time. Speed of print isn’t really a major issue for me & any newer printer will actually be faster than the 26500.
The main upside of the Epsons I think is the print quality, but having said that the HP’s ain’t bad :thumbsup:

The other plus for the latex is the eco credentials which the way things are heading these days can only be a good thing.
The other big thing for me is the rear media loading with the Epson. I just wouldn’t have room. My HP sits right against the wall.

[Myles Brewer]

quote Luke Culpin:

Hi Myles,

I had the same thing happen to mine! I called an independent engineer to tell him an ink line had burst, he immediately guessed it was the cyan, apparently happens regularly in the same place with the same colour! I was advised that you can’t buy a single tube, you have to purchase the full ink line set up, which is something like £1200.

We had been considering moving to the Epson 80600, this failure pushed us into doing so.

Mark Dawson from Dawson support is an independent who works purely on HP latex, sure he will be able to advise you well!

Hi Luke,
Yes, looking at it closer now it definitely looks like it’s been maybe leaking a very small amount for a while as there are some quite crusty bits as I took the tubes apart

& since I’ve had the printer I’ve been having intermittent issues with the light cyan printheads failing & wonder if this may have been related?
There are no obvious signs of cracks or damage to any of the tubes & the rubber sealing rings all appear good when removed. I’ve cleaned them all up & put it back together so might just switch back on tomorrow & keep a close eye on it.
It’s definitely not worth spending £1200 on it but I might be able to get some used spares that would keep it going for a while at least.

I’ve actually been half looking into upgrading to a 365 with the likelihood that HP will end consumables production at the end of this year for the 26500’s. I somehow wonder if my machine has taken the hump with hearing me discuss its successor!! :yikes:

[Myles Brewer]

quote John Thomson:

It’s a Boxster S……not into track days but it has done a few laps at the Nurburgring with me at the wheel :smiles:

John

Ha Ha! Well that should certainly test them well enough I’d say! :smiles: They look well too :thumbsup:

[Myles Brewer]

quote John Thomson:

I refurbed my calipers a few years ago…….painted with VHT paint, applied normal vinyl lettering then applied clear VHT lacquer.
Never had a problem with them.

John

Thanks for that John & as it’s only for family that would be worth a shot. Out of interest what sort of car do you have & do you ever do track days etc? These would be going in a Honda Integra Type R & possibly used for track days. And as Andrew noted above, temps can get considerably higher with this sort of use as opposed to general road use.

[Myles Brewer]

quote Andrew O Brien:

Normally about 200 degrees and up to 1000 on track days

Thanks for that Andrew. I had a feeling it could be pretty warm alright as you see the discs glowing so the calipers have to get pretty warm too!! :shocked:

It’s actually only a family request but thought I’d look into it anyway & I seem to recall someone years back asking for similar for an exhaust!!

Probably should have Googled first but just found a UK brake caliper refurb crowd that have developed their own with the help of chemists specifically to be used on calipers! So probably best left to them :thumbsup:

[Myles Brewer]

quote Chris Wool:

not to correct you Myles to help as i said.
if you use the 3 triangle test cut will help setting depth and pressure as the the outer triangles are one step lighter and other one step higher pressure. than the middle one which is as set. think i got that the right way round..

chris

No problem Chris, I wasn’t offended [emoji23] [emoji23] . I don’t think mine does a 3 triangle test. Like I said it is pretty much an antique! We’ve had it 16yrs now & I’m pretty sure it was around 6yrs old when we got it! It’s a might bit of kit, basic but it works![emoji106]I’d love to know how many metres it’s cut or plotted

[Myles Brewer]

quote Chris Wool:

to help.. the small triangles test cut is for setting the offset normally 0 as you set whether it has a 09 blade 015 blade which has its own known offset but a 30 or 60 deg blade may need the offset altering..

I stand corrected Chris :blushing: Well spotted

[Myles Brewer]

I know this may not work depending on the shape & size of the vehicle & who is to change the panel, but keeping it simple, could you not just use a removable vinyl & forget the frame?

[Myles Brewer]

quote Simon Worrall:

Hi
On Cutting Master, if you go to Enable Driver Options there is a box for QUALITY, the choice is 0 – 8.
It doesnt seem to make any difference whether I choose 0 or 8 in this box.
Does anybody know what the “Quality” refers to?

Simon

Hi Simon, if it’s like our antique graphtec CE1000 then it refers to the quality of the corners when its cutting.
If you have a test cut option it cuts a small triangle within a square about 10mm. When you adjust the quality you should see a very small (you may well need a magnifying glass unless your eyes are really sharp!![emoji26][emoji23]) improvement or deterioration in the sharpness and accuracy of the corners of the triangle.

[Myles Brewer]

quote Colin Crabb:

I know they’re a lot more difficult to get on HP suppliers channels and therefore the prices are higher, liable to increase at a faster rate then the newer L** series (831 ink) too, as HP wish to push end users to the newer machines :awkward:

Yes there’s actually just been an increase from my supplier recently so the push is surely on! [emoji26]

[Myles Brewer]

quote Myriam Garrido:

Hi Myles.

We saw a sample of what these machines can produce and the quality blew us away when they first came out.

I’ve sent an email to HP asking for clarification. It would be a shame if they were however maybe a third party would continue any parts for these. I’m aware DP supplies do some and inks are also available elsewhere.

Probably will be like Saab. Stopped making them but can still get loads of bits !

Thanks

I do hope you’re right. I did hear that spurious inks may well be available but less likely print heads & cleaning kits etc. Might not be easily had.
Be interested to hear what you get back from HP.

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Myriam,

I have a 26500 & at the moment all consumables are still available for it but I’ve heard recently that HP are possibly going to be discontinuing producing them in in the next 12 months or so!! There doesn’t seem to be anything definite yet & I’ve asked supplier to see if they can get any more info.
This would be a massive shame I think as it’s a great machine & a good few still out there printing away happily!! A bit like Microsoft pulling XP!! Why get rid when its working perfectly?? But that’s technology for you!

I am starting now to look into the next generation 300/500 series which are actually better machines but obviously a bigger initial investment. I would advise you do the same or risk having a potentially useless machine in the next year or two .
I know HP also do a few print & cut options in the newer ranges to so that may be of use .

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks David, yes I think sourcing consistently flat pebbles of similar shape, size & colour is probably the biggest issue! & then trial & error with the laser settings.
Unfortunately the actual deadline for the memorial service my customer wanted them for has passed now, although she did say she would still like to get them if it was found to.be possible so I will continue to search for someone that can do them. Memorial masons may be worth a try.

[Myles Brewer]

quote Steff Davison:

I am able to produce this type of work.

What size pebbles, how soon do you want them?

Do they want colour filled?

Is there different wording on each pebble?

Steff

Hi "Steff", I’m guessing maybe this is actually something that you can’t produce??

[Myles Brewer]

quote Billy Higgins:

.
WANTED- HP L25500- Printhead Cleaning Kit
I Need the part:- CH621A

Thanks
Billy

Try Papergraphics

[Myles Brewer]

quote Martyn Heath:

quote Bernard Gallagher:

What’s everyone using now for there standard frost?? Used to love the bullet proof Multiflix frost was brilliant never got one in as happy with since. Agree the air release Metamark stuff is horrible stuff.

Avery crystal etch for me

+1 for the Avery Crystal especially if plotter cut designs in it. I’ve tried Aslan Easy Apply & whilst it is indeed easy to apply, you can always see the grid pattern off the escape channels on the back & if plotter cut I feel any sharp or fine points would not adhere well enough & be prone to lifting when customers clean windows!!

[Myles Brewer]

Hi David,

Yes that’s what I was thinking as it’s not a wrap in the real sense at all.

I don’t really know what they expect to be happening to it to be honest!

Out of interest as I haven’t had much experience with them, do air-release vinyls generally stick as well as non air-release?

[Myles Brewer]

Yes I get what you’re saying. The previous jobs were both the same Land Rovers & 1st time it took about a day & a half dodging between showers (I don’t have a shed!!😢) 2nd time I used the customer’s shed, much more comfortable & did it in about 5 hrs I think until he came back to ask if I could also do the grill!! AARRGG! Only charged €300!! Having said that he is a very good customer so I didn’t want to take the P with him either.

Turned out well though for 1st attempt I think.

+5 More Photos

[Myles Brewer]

I guess a positive of global warming being true, is Scotland might get a wee bit warmer!

🤣 Now I am with you 100% on that if we can include Ireland too!? & dryer!

Whilst I have your attention here too Rob, Could I ask you about invoices for subscriptions? I’ve tried a couple of times recently & in the past asking via the forum contact page if it’s possible to get an invoice for the subscription but to no avail.

Could your system not be set up to automatically send an invoice when subscriptions renew?

[Myles Brewer]

Apologies Graham, Forgot to include that they are for outdoors.

Re the customer, I don’t think any of it will be a game changer to be honest for them. It’s just that the signage is for a project called “Creation Walk” with signs along a pathway with religious quotes relating to the creation of the cosmos & life etc. so it seemed a little hypocritical to be using something damaging to the planet & why they then asked if I could potentially use an eco-friendly product.

Part of my issue is being in the Republic of Ireland as there is never that much choice of products here generally as in the UK & although obviously it’s possible to buy from the UK, since Brexit, it’s really become a bit of a nightmare with shipping costs due to all the customs BS.

I was actually thinking about using solid aluminium as the substrate & I think any PVC-free vinyl & laminate would potentially work ok. If the prints had to be replaced every few years that wouldn’t be a major additional cost at the size & quantity required. They would be mounted on stand-offs so easy to remove & replace.

I have come across a Polyprop sheet by Mapal called Polycraft which I think is similar to what you referred to as Polyline maybe? It is far more rigid & hard than say Foamex but can only get it in 1.8, 2.0 & 2.5mm here. Otherwise it could have been a good option.

Interestingly I’ve just come across a company that recycles ACM panels & am trying to establish if this is something that individual sign companies could potentially use for offcuts & old used panels etc.

[Myles Brewer]

Oh! & my customer is actually the local Marian Shrine!! So they are all about apparitions!! So should be easy to convince!🤣
A very good customer though I must add in all honesty, so wouldn’t want to upset them.

[Myles Brewer]

Ha! Ha! Nice rant Simon, do you feel better with that off your chest now!🤣

It certainly appears that you’ve looked into this a little before!?

I realise it’s really quite a lot of BS at the moment & all a big knee-jerk reaction to placate the plebian population for the time being, but that said, there are still surely some options which are “less Bad” than others? Latex being one example. Yes it’s not as eco as they make out, but in some aspects at least it’s less harmful ( I say this sitting not 8 inches from my 365 as it cooks me slowly, BUT, it’s currently not polluting my lungs & making me high!! I don’t think?😲)

[Myles Brewer]

Ha Ha! yes a blow up work station might work but I can just imagine accidentally touching one of the ribs with my super heated hot air gun & getting flung around like a giant deflating balloon!!🤣

I get what you’re saying about general heat gun temperatures though & obviously when outside too they need to be hotter to allow for any cool breezes etc. I have had mine up to around 450 C which seems mad but when it’s cold I guess that’s not so mad. You do have to be careful not to accidentally touch the end though at that temp it only needs a gentle glance for an OUCH!!😱

[Myles Brewer]

Ah!! yes you are correct there Rob. I hadn’t realised it was a one part system.

[Myles Brewer]

That’s fantastic info thanks Colin!

With a little detective work I discovered that one of my regular suppliers actually stocks it under their own brand name!

👍

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks for that Colin.

I did used to use Papergraphics but since Brexit it became stupidly expensive to ship to Ireland unless buying in bulk which unfortunately I’m not able to do.

Hence why I was hoping to source something within Ireland if at all possible.

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Martin,

Just wondering how you got on with this, what you used in the end & has it lasted?

I have just been asked to do exactly the same onto a slightly textured tiled changing room floor so would be interested in how yours turned out.

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Joe,

Yes I saw that, was actually my 1st choice, but unfortunately they don’t do the size that my customer was looking for, otherwise would have been perfect with the doming kits as well.

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Rob,

I wasn’t thinking of cutting sign vinyl! I think as you say they’d definitely be a tad on the small side for that haha!. There’s an image logo too so I had intended just to print them. As it’s a relatively small quantity it wouldn’t be a massive job to print & fit, either to the face or reverse print & fitted onto the back if there was a blank available that would allow for that.

Something like the attached for example.
Around 80x40mm or there about.

The problem with some of the companies printing them is the minimum quantities.

I may well have to give up on it but I wanted to at least try for my customer & thought it would be easy enough to still get blanks but it seems that’s no longer the case these days.

[Myles Brewer]

Not at all Kevin. You weren’t to know & it’s always nice to know how others do things. These sort of tips are useful for everyone here.👍

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Kevin, I’m actually familiar with using that process for vans & know it works very well & actually made myself a magnetic ruler specifically for that purpose.

I’ve actually managed to get hold of the dealer that is selling that lorry this evening & they’re going to email me some pics in the morning of the side of the lorry cab head on, so hopefully I should be able to trace them & then just tweak them to fit my customers cab which I have good pics & dimensions of.

The issue was trying to get better pics of those particular graphics which he had wanted.

That’s a great job on yours. That customer rendering looks incredibly realistic & accurate!

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Rob, Unfortunately not for the DAF with the graphics otherwise I’d just trace them. That was just the pic the customer sent me. I might possibly be able to ask where he saw it, It’s definitely not one of his so I presume he just snapped it himself or got it from Google.

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Joe,

That’s spot on thanks a million. I may actually be able to get them to remove the bits themselves. I hadn’t thought of that & it would certainly make life easier & less stress about possibly breaking something!!

[Myles Brewer]

Nice job David. I imagine the chrome is not too easy to work with?

I don’t have any idea yet as to quantity of vinyl as I’ve really just been sussing out if it was likely to be possible. So now it looks like it may be I’ll take some measurements & also maybe have a look at what bits might be removable whilst I’m at it.

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks for that John, but not sure if it’s the same principle is it when not sinking posts into the concrete but rather mounting the sign with a plinth base plate onto the top of a precast concrete slab. Also the fact that the concrete base is required to project upwards of ground level by 500mm. So basically a hole will be excavated & then shuttering built around it to 500mm above ground level.

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Hopefully pedestrians & cyclists won’t be an issue regarding the height as they’re going on an airfield!!🤣 So they actually must be kept low & posts must be frangible. We’ve established that standard 76mm Dia. (or smaller) galvanised with 3mm wall are classed as frangible. The wind would be the main factor here regarding the width but with 3 to 4 clips & keeping to 600×900 hopefully we’ll be safe enough.

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks for that Joe & yes west of Ireland & they’re going to be in a very exposed location although also very close to the ground. I had suggested 600 & customer was just asking if I could make it any wider, possibly up to 900 but I thought it could be an issue potentially!

[Myles Brewer]

🤣 Nice one. But surely you must have a few off cuts around that size!!??

[Myles Brewer]

Ha Ha, indeed.

It still amazes me how many people think you can “wrap or just put a sticker over it” on a rusty old bus or van to make it suddenly perfect!!🤣

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Kevin, yes I’m a big fan of doing a job once only!! & would rather spend the little extra first time than have the hassle & embarrassment of a callback.

Luckily I know this customer quite well too so can ensure they know the potential issues & think I could even get them to do the silicone bit themselves or chance it without if they’re happy to.

They wouldn’t be the type to take me to court if it failed after a few months either so it would almost be a good test piece.

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Martyn, Did you seal around the edges or anything extra like that or was it ok just trimmed to the grout line? & did you have to heat it to conform or did you cut the corners as it was polymeric?

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Hugh, Happy New Year to you. I actually ended up getting a different brand supplied now by Sign & Digital (I think to complement their VST tapes) as a replacement for the 3M product.

I haven’t yet tried it but presume it will do the exact same job.

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Rob.

Usually 3M RP45 or a similar non 3M brand. This is 90% for attaching channel to the rear of ACM panels of varying sizes. I always add rivets too for peace of mind unless they are very small signs in low level locations.

It’s probably OTT with the addition of rivets but I like my sleep🤣

I have seen it said that it will only work on 3M tapes or vinyl, but it definitely does work on other brands. (well at least the 94 does from my experience)

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Rob,

Sorry no. I may have confused matters by not labeling the image. That was just to show the difference between the male parts of the glue on version on the left (that I usually use) & the screw on version on the right (the one I am questioning), They both have the same female part as shown in this image

Glue-on-Locators.jpg 216 KB Image File - Click to view

• Copy Download Link

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks for that David, Yes I just looked at that & It’s better too as I can just get the 3m I need rather than 5m min order with the 3M. Do you use the RA version?

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Rob, Yes that’s the one. I’m actually looking at the 3M 2080 now which I believe is the next gen with protective film layer.

I hadn’t actually seen the fin. I guess that will be a bit of a pain!! I have a feeling I’ve read something about them somewhere before & that removal is tricky! I don’t see it being a problem to trim around for the roof but to wrap it I’d imagine could be tricky!? Any tips?

😂

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Joe,

Thanks for that, but I don’t think it’s either Co-sign or Spandex is it? As far as I’m aware they are the only two systems they supply.

[Myles Brewer]

The main reason for getting a higher powered & half inch collet router was for doing the worktops but will hopefully be a little better than the Aldi one for use on the composite as well. Both have the edge guide which like you say should help keep it straight although I’ve seen quite a lot use another sheet or offcut of composite clamped on top as a guide.

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks for that Joe, Just sent them an email now

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Jamie. Much appreciated

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Martin, That should give him a ballpark to save his pennies for