Advice on digital wallpaper

[Gil Johnson]

Hi Kevin,

We’ve used Digimura for top end stuff in the past, they have some lovely textured finishes.

I’ve Furloed? staff and been keeping things going on my own, landed a courier job approx 4 hours a day – loving it!

[John Hughes]

She just wants you out the way :smiles:

[Kevin Mahoney]

quote John Hughes:

She just wants you out the way :smiles:

Won’t be too far away, she’s footing the ladder

[Iain Pearson]

Hi Kevin
What’s sort of digital are you looking to use, Paste up or Self adhesive ? I’m happy to give you as much info as you need. We do a lot of wallpapers so have lots of tips and tricks to pass on.

[Martyn Heath]

digimura is a good film. Canvas looks like proper woven wallpaper

mactac ww-300 is also good. Vertical drops with 12mm overlaps.

[Kevin Mahoney]

Which is the easiest to fit, paste up or self adhesive?

[Iain Pearson]

Wouldn’t touch Ww300 unless you want to re plaster your walls afterwards.
With paste up you can overlap and splice, gives you a nice clean almost invisible finish. Self adhesive is a bit easier to install but you will have overlaps. Whichever you choose, always seal the walls first.

If you have a look at our website under Wallcoverings, most of these are wallpaper

http://www.ngagegraphics.co.uk

[Kevin Mahoney]

Thanks Iain, will have a look. Was going to pva the walls first if thats the correct method, don’t want any overlaps so I’m cutting through the overlap & removing the excess?

[Martyn Heath]

quote Iain Pearson:

Wouldn’t touch Ww300 unless you want to re plaster your walls afterwards.
With paste up you can overlap and splice, gives you a nice clean almost invisible finish. Self adhesive is a bit easier to install but you will have overlaps. Whichever you choose, always seal the walls first.

If you have a look at our website under Wallcoverings, most of these are wallpaper

http://www.ngagegraphics.co.uk

ww300 is high tack but seems no stronger than the adhesive on digimura wallpaper. I thought they were all high tack due the low energy paint they are going onto.

[Iain Pearson]

quote Martyn Heath:

quote Iain Pearson:

Wouldn’t touch Ww300 unless you want to re plaster your walls afterwards.
With paste up you can overlap and splice, gives you a nice clean almost invisible finish. Self adhesive is a bit easier to install but you will have overlaps. Whichever you choose, always seal the walls first.

If you have a look at our website under Wallcoverings, most of these are wallpaper

http://www.ngagegraphics.co.uk

ww300 is high tack but seems no stronger than the adhesive on digimura wallpaper. I thought they were all high tack due the low energy paint they are going onto.

have you ever had to remove wall wrap Martyn ?
In most cases, its not really about the adhesive, its more about the preparation of walls.
if you get that part right, then pretty much anything will work.
Indeed, the WW range is designed for low energy paint, but if you seal the wall correctly, you can even use removable paper and will work equally as well but without the removal issues.
Ive actually seen the static draw of the release liner stick WW to a emulsion wall, without any pressure, and watch the paint lift if you have to re-position. It has its uses, but not for general hanging

[Iain Pearson]

quote Kevin Mahoney:

Thanks Iain, will have a look. Was going to pva the walls first if thats the correct method, don’t want any overlaps so I’m cutting through the overlap & removing the excess?

Yup, PVA mist coat is fine, although we prefer to use Zinsser.
If you are going to paste up, yes, overlap and splice. You can do this with SA but not so easy to remove the waste.
Paste up allows you to "Slide" the panels, and also close any joint gaps that may occur, with S/A, you can’t do that.

How will you be printing ? Solvent/Latex/UV ?

[Kevin Mahoney]

Will be printing on either my pro 3 or 4, both solvent, will it need to be sealed?

[Iain Pearson]

Dont seal wallpaper. they need to breathe.
As long as the scratch resistance is good, and you take care installing, you should be fine.
Do a scratch test on a sample before you print/install as you don’t want to waste material/ink.
Tile up in vertical drops, 15mm overlaps with 25mm-50mm bleed to perimeter edges to allow for out of square walls/ceiling.
Use a laser or spirit level to get your first drop plumb and then work from there :thumbsup:

[Kevin Mahoney]

Brilliant, thank you. Any suppliers you’d recommend?

[Iain Pearson]

quote Kevin Mahoney:

Brilliant, thank you. Any suppliers you’d recommend?

For paste up wallpaper, we use Newmor – Graphite. has a slight texture but not heavy. we have tried all the other usual contenders but the Newmor product is by far the best all-rounder

For S/A we use either Metamark WallArt range , Innotech WallMark canvas or All print Supplies Gecko range

[Kevin Mahoney]

Will phone around, thanks for all the advice both

[Martyn Heath]

quote Iain Pearson:

quote Martyn Heath:

quote Iain Pearson:

Wouldn’t touch Ww300 unless you want to re plaster your walls afterwards.
With paste up you can overlap and splice, gives you a nice clean almost invisible finish. Self adhesive is a bit easier to install but you will have overlaps. Whichever you choose, always seal the walls first.

If you have a look at our website under Wallcoverings, most of these are wallpaper

http://www.ngagegraphics.co.uk

ww300 is high tack but seems no stronger than the adhesive on digimura wallpaper. I thought they were all high tack due the low energy paint they are going onto.

have you ever had to remove wall wrap Martyn ?
In most cases, its not really about the adhesive, its more about the preparation of walls.
if you get that part right, then pretty much anything will work.
Indeed, the WW range is designed for low energy paint, but if you seal the wall correctly, you can even use removable paper and will work equally as well but without the removal issues.
Ive actually seen the static draw of the release liner stick WW to a emulsion wall, without any pressure, and watch the paint lift if you have to re-position. It has its uses, but not for general hanging

No ive never removed any and now we have spoke…i dont ever want to 🙂 so you pva everything. How about when your only doing part graphics, logos on a interior wall? You can never tell how the vinyl will stick due to not knowing the paint, so ive always played it safe with high tack. Well safe for me :smiles:

[Iain Pearson]

No worries Kevin, good luck, and remember to post up some pics of the finished work :thumbsup:

[Iain Pearson]

Hi Martyn
Personally we don’t use PVA as it is an adhesive, and if not diluted/applied correctly can cause its own problems – Think about a contact adhesive where both parts have adhesive applied and then you get the picture.
We prefer to use a sealer, and we find the Zinsser products work for all situations. Again, its only personal preference, but based on years of installing :thumbsup:

[John Hughes]

Hi Martyn
Which Zinsser product do you use to prime the wall?

Thanks
John

[Myles Brewer]

I was advised a couple of years back by a manufacturer of a paste the wall product to use the zinnser bullseye 123 (water based) primer. Did about 50 metres of wall with it in a commercial situation & its still looking good now & no problem with peeling or anything.

I’d be interested to know if anyone here has tried Kernow Coating’s Wallshark media? Looks very good. 100% won’t shrink, sticks well but easily removed.

[Martyn Heath]

Regarding applying. Guessing it doesnt take too long to apply but few hours to dry? Zinsser shieldz im refurring to

[David Wilde]

Sheildz only appears to be available in the US from my searches where are you getting it from Martyn?

[Martyn Heath]

quote David Wilde:

Sheildz only appears to be available in the US from my searches where are you getting it from Martyn?

Just googled it. First time ive heard of the stuff. So you guys are talking about the white emulsion instead

[Iain Pearson]

Zinsser Gardz or Bullseye 1-2-3 are the two main sealers.
We use both for wallpaper prep depending on the existing wall surface.
Both dry in a few hours but always recommend 18-24 hrs prior to hanging paper just to be certain

[Hugh Potter]

quote Iain Pearson:

Zinsser Gardz or Bullseye 1-2-3 are the two main sealers.
We use both for wallpaper prep depending on the existing wall surface.
Both dry in a few hours but always recommend 18-24 hrs prior to hanging paper just to be certain

Iain,
How are these products applied, sprayed from a pressurised atomiser? I must admit that I’ve never used any of these products and to my knowledge, every wall I’ve done in the past few years is still looking good (metamark wallart).
H

[Iain Pearson]

Morning Hugh, hope you are well mate.
We roller it on like a normal emulsion making sure we get full coverage.
A lot of walls wouldn’t necessarily need to have Zinsser applied before fitting wall coverings, but that’s only if you know the history of how it’s prepared. Bottom line is we seal all full coverage walls as a belt and braces preparation. Last thing you want is 250sqm of wallpaper to bubble and fail because whoever prepped the wall painted emulsion straight onto new bare plaster.
To be fair, and not pointing the finger at anyone, but I’d say 75% of all wall installations carried out each year don’t prep the walls first, they just rely on what’s there being sufficient.
90% of our work is commercial interiors, so we are pretty experienced when it comes to prep and selecting the right media for the job and we would always advise to prep correctly to avoid failures.
It’s no different to prepping the bodywork of a car/van before you do a wrap – would you vinyl a vehicle that had not been washed or still had all the tar spots on ? Of course not, and wall coverings are no different

[Hugh Potter]

makes total sense Iain, Thank you!

[Barry Williams]

quote Kevin Mahoney:

So, after a week at home doing countless repairs & maintenance around the house (& can’t really see any difference), I’m climbing the walls & cannot face any more Netflix or sky tv. The good lady has finally agreed to let me do some digital wallpaper (god help her, I get some wild ideas when the client isn’t calling the shots)at home in the hallway & stairs. I’ve never used the proper stuff, just used a matt laminated polymeric. Any advice from the knowledgeable ones would be really useful, tiling, printing & fitting tips would be great. I have to look at this every day (if I don’t get thrown out of course ) so want to do a nice job. Thanks in advance.

I presume that the walls have been previously emulsioned. This will remove the need to seal the walls with pva, depending on the quality of the paint and if when the first time that the walls were painted, a priming/thin coat was applied that soaked into the plaster and did not just sit on the surface. The best way to hang any wallcovering, even onto a sealed surface, is to cross-line the walls with a 1000 guage liningpaper using regular cellulose paste. This will also allow safe removal of wallcovering in the future without pulling the skimcoat plaster off the walls. Overlap and cut thru will give nice joints.
Even with paste-the-wall wallcoverings I prefer to use a ready-mixed tub paste such as Solvite and paste the paper.
Paste one sheet and hang almost immediately. The cellulose pastes do not have the same tack as a tub paste for heavier papers.
Such are the tips from a professional paperhanger of 50 yrs+.
Enjoy the experience, kudos will follow for a well-done job.
Barry

[Iain Pearson]

quote Barry Williams:

quote Kevin Mahoney:

So, after a week at home doing countless repairs & maintenance around the house (& can’t really see any difference), I’m climbing the walls & cannot face any more Netflix or sky tv. The good lady has finally agreed to let me do some digital wallpaper (god help her, I get some wild ideas when the client isn’t calling the shots)at home in the hallway & stairs. I’ve never used the proper stuff, just used a matt laminated polymeric. Any advice from the knowledgeable ones would be really useful, tiling, printing & fitting tips would be great. I have to look at this every day (if I don’t get thrown out of course ) so want to do a nice job. Thanks in advance.

I presume that the walls have been previously emulsioned. This will remove the need to seal the walls with pva, depending on the quality of the paint and if when the first time that the walls were painted, a priming/thin coat was applied that soaked into the plaster and did not just sit on the surface. The best way to hang any wallcovering, even onto a sealed surface, is to cross-line the walls with a 1000 guage liningpaper using regular cellulose paste. This will also allow safe removal of wallcovering in the future without pulling the skimcoat plaster off the walls. Overlap and cut thru will give nice joints.
Even with paste-the-wall wallcoverings I prefer to use a ready-mixed tub paste such as Solvite and paste the paper.
Paste one sheet and hang almost immediately. The cellulose pastes do not have the same tack as a tub paste for heavier papers.
Such are the tips from a professional paperhanger of 50 yrs+.
Enjoy the experience, kudos will follow for a well-done job.
Barry

Hence why we recommend sealing all walls because most people
Don’t know how the walls were prepared originally. If you go by current onsite building contractors, they slap on a bit of trade emulsion with no sealing. Not questioning your methods, but that’s why we recommend ALL walls are sealed regardless. Plus self adhesive wall coverings work in a completely different way to paste up papers

[Barry Williams]

No experience of working self-adhesive papers so cannot comment.
Fully agreed on the need to seal.
Regards,
Barry