[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Martin, appreciate that

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Spot on Chris,

Thanks very much indeed

regards
Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Marvelous! Thank you kindly good sir
I suppose eps or pdf would be the most preferable if at all possible.

thanks
Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Chris,

Ah! a man of few words I see 😕 Would you be at all interested in sharing it, or possibly letting me in on where I may obtain it myself per chance my good man?

Thanks
Myles 😀

[Myles Brewer]

Hi John,

quote :

No, but I’ve got a GoldWing 30 badge.

That doesn’t help, does it? Sorry.

Hmmm! not sure what that looks like, but it would be a hell of a coincidence if it was the same lol.

Thanks anyway

Anyone else seen it anywhere?

Myles[/quote]

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Guy,

Yes, you may well have a good point there, it is indeed a petrol forecourt. I best look into the highways situation before we go any further into the flashing idea.
I was leaning more towards the LED idea I think anyway, so I presume that would alleviate the hi voltage problem though.

Thanks, I appreciate the comments

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

& Dave R,

No they’re looking to have their name in lights, no ambition for fame here though :lol1:

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Dave,

Would there be much difference cost wise between neon & LED?

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

hhmmm, I noticed the small poppits only protrude by 8mm which if countersunk into the foamex by about 2 mm would bring it into to 6mm… not too bad. The distortion may be more of a problem though, your right 🙁

Maybe it’s back to the VHB or peters hidden screw fixing idea..

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

quote Peter Normington:

This may sound complicated, but is really quite simple, and has been used in woodwork for many years to hide fixings.

Using a 10mm wide sharp chisel, shave a strip from the surface of the foamex in one direction, so it curls up, Drill or insert your cs screw under the curl, then a blob of glue to stick the curl down.

OK you will have a few small holes to repair when the sign is removed,
but better than having to repair large areas that could pull off if using adhesives

Peter

Thanks Peter, A sneaky trick indeed 😀 Would that work on 5mm foamex or would it be a bit thin? I think I still prefer the sound of the poppits

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

quote Kevin Flowers:

Myles
you can bond them with something like Sticks like Sh*t which will damage the wall finish when removed or face fix and either bond screw caps in place or use the snap shut screw caps. Bonding will only be as good as the paint bond though, so screwing sounds the better idea unless you want to make a hook over system for the rear of it.

Kev

Thanks Kev, but unfortunately the customer is adamant, no face fixings to be visible

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Just had a look at them Richard, they could be just the job, handy little things, I can see them being quite useful, thanks for the link

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Richard,
Thanks for reply, Do you know what they’re called?

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Sorry!! no picture… I didn’t realize you can’t just upload them… 😳

[Myles Brewer]

Hi pauly,
Thanks for that. I actually did do it wet, & although it took a bit longer to squeegee it well, it actually came out very well, with no bubbles, and the 20mm joins are virtually imperceptible from outside, as Peter rightly said.
Here’s a pic of the finished job.

Thanks for the advice chaps 😀

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Peter,
I only have 24" rolls of vinyl, so it has to be 3 strips unfortunately. 🙁

[Myles Brewer]

quote RickJesse:

I’m the designer, I can fit but try to leave it to our pro and when we have a lot on I just become the man that gets told “lift this” “move it up” “right” “left” etc…
You can check out some of our stuff here http://www.dogtooth.co.uk/

WOW Rick, just checked out your website…. very impressive.. you have been busy!!

😮 I am truly humbled to be in the presence of such a talented & prolific designer… My work is really very basic as I’m not a graphic designer but if called for there are a few local designers who will either advise or design for me.

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

quote Peter Normington:

Myles,
Dry is the preferd way, but dont know how you did it, but i would have taped in place top or bottom and worked from the middle with a hinge, that way you split into 2halves, and less chance to run off.
Peter

Yes Peter, I do normally only fit dry, but the size of this one made me a little apprehensive. Never thought of doing it from the middle up or down 🙄 makes perfect sense now you mention it. I lined up carefully at the top & worked down, fortunately it didn’t go off! Will try your method on the next one. Thanks
Myles

[Myles Brewer]

quote martin:

Myles, you would be better off sticking with the dry application, the more of these you do obviously the easier they become.
Problem with applying wet is that the water will tend to gather in the recess and you will have trouble with the adhesive taking to the side of the van which can cause it to pull back out of the recess.

Spot on Martin, that’s exactly what happened & it took a good bit of patient squeegeeing to get it to stick in the recesses but worked well then on the flat panels. But like you say it’s practice makes perfect & I’ll certainly try the next one dry
Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Rick,
Unfortunately with this I can’t take the credit for the design, It comes direct from the company, ready designed, printed & laminated ready to fit.

Cushty job though eh! 😀 , the only disadvantage , like I said, is that if I mess up, there’s no spares 🙁 but fortunately (touch wood) that’s never happened… yet!! 😕
Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Cheers everybody for your advice, sorry I didn’t get back sooner but have been crazy busy (great complaint!!)
Job went ok & was straightforward enough as the door only has a couple of creases & no valleys, (obviously why they supplied Scothcal 40 & not wrapping vinyl)
The trickiest bit was making sure it started off perfectly straight, as the sticker was supplied cut Exactly to size, nothing left to trim!!?? 😮

I actually started off dry, then carried on wet. Would anyone recommend doing it all wet (easier to line up from start maybe?) I never normally use wet application, but I think that only having one pair of hands & with a sticker that size I may have made a ba**s of it dry & I only had the 1 shot at it.

Myles

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[Myles Brewer]

Cheers Chris, thanks for the advice, will let you know how it goes after Saturday

Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Chris,

Thanks for your input, think I’ll just apply from top down & fold round panels.

Would you heat it after application at all, on the edges for example or just apply like regular vinyl with good pressure?

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Chris,
Have you used it on anything like this (van sliding door) before
Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Alex,
I just checked out the 40 series Tech info & yes your right, it’s not what I thought this company would be supplying as they’re extremely fussy about their graphics & positioning etc (German company). Or could it be that as it’s on the new Transit, the sliding door is pretty much flat, bar a few slight ridges which I would think it would conform to easily enough. I have no experience with this vinyl so it’s hard to know.

With regards to heating, would it need it (or take it) if it’s not a wrapping vinyl?

Also regards cleaning, I usually use U-Pol panel wipe, is this ok or do I need Isopropanol?

Thanks
Myles 🙂

[Myles Brewer]

quote :

Always dry your armpits when you get out of the bath!

Thanks for that Harry but me mum already taught me dat one 😀 😮

[Myles Brewer]

Any more tips … anyone??? (?)

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Karl,
Yep that helps a bit thanks. I just checked & it’s actually Scotch cal 40 series that I’ll be using, any comments on is user friendliness or heating temperatures? etc. Obviously I need to get a good heat gun, I have felt squeegees & regular fitting equipment, anything else recommended, like rivet brush etc

Thanks
Myles 🙂

[Myles Brewer]

…and this would be your problem how?!? 😉

You never know how these things workout & if the business folds, I could be the poor sucker having to remove the lettering ready for the next client 😕
I like to think ahead 😮

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Dave,
Yes, the owner specified no damage to surface if at all possible, so that rules out keying up!!
How removable would the evo-stick be in a year or two if the business changes?

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks signsurfer,
That’s an interesting point!, as when talking to Technibond, they were suggesting getting the tape as a sheet & cutting round the letters so you’d have a continuous bond over the whole letter, it may be more expensive , but peace of mind!! 🙂

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Martin,
Thanks very much for that,
I just spent the last hour looking through the Hexis website, very impressive & informative, their range is massive!! Then spoke to Technibond, they’re sending me a sample of their HTA foam tape to try out on the granite as they’re not sure of the porosity of the surface as obviously it can vary. Hopefully it should do the job. Thanks again for the info 😀

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Martin,
I was beginning to think I’d done something wrong as no replies!! 😥
Job is not being done til beginning of next month, just trying to research in plenty of time.
You said the red type , would that be the d/sided foam tape (4611) or 9088FL don’t know if those numbers mean anything to you.
& also would you seal or key the backs of the letters?
Thanks Myles

[Myles Brewer]

😳 Sorry Brian, my mistake, I spose I wasn’t really thinking, it was 2am after all, & I just thought I was being helpful & that’s what this forum was for (File sharing & swapping) ’til i saw your post this morning & realized my feau pa! 😳 . promise i won’t do it again
Myles

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Nik,
Glad to hear someone else is too busy to get on here.. it’s a good complaint though 😀 anyway here’s the outlines your after as eps file. if you need in a different format let me know
Cheers Myles

mod-edit :police3:
File deleted

[Myles Brewer]

Hi All,
Thanks for your suggestions,

Simon: yes the black was just a simulation of the customers frame although I may try to talk him out of it as I think it may be a bit much.. Have taken the suggestion about the stained glass theme a bit further . & no your not being too critical at all, i appreciate your time & input.

Harry & Glenn: Yes your both right, the top was too messy, so I’ve Increased the kerning slightly, reduced the size & faded the reflection a bit more, i think that helps a lot.
Glenn I wouldn’t want to use mirrored materials as the sign is on a busy roadside & I’d be concerned about reflections of sunlight or car lights causing accidents, Hope that doesn’t sound too daft 🙄

Nilay: Thanks I think this works better now too 😀

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Attachments:

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Simon,
Sorry about the delay getting back to you but I’m a one man operation so have to leave the computer to fit etc..
Yes there’s a few of us out there (Myles).. Thanks for the suggestions, I think your right about the pictures , I’ll have to see if I can get some better ones for the finished design, I like the idea of incorporating the stained glass theme in the design (Genius!! 😀 ) I think this works a lot better, what you you think? Also the font is Busorama .
Thanks Myles

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Attachments:

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks again Neil,
I had already tried that but still thought there may have been a better way that would look, erm! maybe more er professional or something. I’m not averse to resizing or reshaping or rearranging the pics

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Neil,
But the border Will actually be a picture frame as that’s also what the customer does & he wanted to use one of his own frames.
It was more how to use the pictures within the sign i was after, Thanks all the same 😀

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Debbie, Just the job :lol1:

[Myles Brewer]

Sorry Marcella, didn’t mean to upset anyone with the request 😥 :lol1: but unfortunately that’s what the customer wants etc. So do you have the font file?

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks very much Pat, Dave & Rob, for your prompt replys, that will do nicely Cheers.

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks for that andy, you don’t have the font file available do you?

[Myles Brewer]

Brian, Thanks, that could be of some help, but still it would be handier if they were available on disc like the other outlines. cheers anyway 🙂

[Myles Brewer]

Hi Nancy , Sorry that’s only foto i got, thanks anyway

[Myles Brewer]

Andrew did you have any luck locating the font?

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks for that Dave if you got the Robex one that would be exellent , cheers

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks for that Dave if you got the Robex one that would be exellent , cheers

[Myles Brewer]

yeah lorraine, coslon is a bit too thin as are the rest i have, ta anyway

Andrew, thanks also . would be great if you do. i’m out for the day so will check thisevening to see if you had any luck , cheers

[Myles Brewer]

Gotcha, i’ll have a look for that then , anyway time for bed now , getting a bit late here, cheers
Myles

[Myles Brewer]

quote wannousnancy:

Lunch was good i had Subway.

I agree with Peter. Caslon is a match.

No problem I’m glad to help well i didn’t really this time next time will be better.
😀

Sorry Nancy what was the Caslon bit about??

[Myles Brewer]

Nancy,
have a nice lunch, hope you havn’t gone fontblind!! & thanks for the help
cheers

[Myles Brewer]

peter,
not insurance job but your right , nobody can see both sides at once so similar font would proberbly do , i have something like but not as thick, it’s just i’m a taurus so tend to be a bit of a perfectionist & like to get it right if i possibbly can, will try original signwriter tommorrow if i can. thanks

[Myles Brewer]

thanks peter, just thought someone may have had font handy, cheers

[Myles Brewer]

Ok, think peter may have the best solution & if that fails it may be just as easy to re do van allover as it’s hardly a lot of vinyl is it??
thanks all for your help 🙄

[Myles Brewer]

Wannousnancy,
not to good with illustrator, use flexi7 mostly

[Myles Brewer]

Thanks Lynn, just checked that out , it’s definately the same but dont think she managed to get the file, i really need it as i have to copy lettering onto other side of van after damage respray.

& thanks wannousnancy, any help will be very much appreciated

[Myles Brewer]

yeah it’s certainly very similar but it dosn’t have the cut out bits

[Myles Brewer]

cheers terry , spot on, thanks a million :lol1: