[Glenn Sharp]

that one works very nicely Harry…….I agree on some kind of description needed as well

Even though Steve’s explained what he does, I’m still none the wiser 😳

[Glenn Sharp]

I’m not even sure what mine means or if it even works but it’s another idea anyhoos……

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[Glenn Sharp]

Steve,

The way it works is that you would put up your existing logo and a new attempt at where you would like to go in the Graphic Design Help and Discussion forum, giving as much information as you can regarding colours, how it would be reproduced etc etc

Have a look in there…there are plenty of examples of people willing to help and advise once you start the ball rolling yourself

[Glenn Sharp]

are you paying for taxis home John ?? 😮

[Glenn Sharp]

😀

she’s done well to get that far under water

[Glenn Sharp]

Another good one ……cheers Denise

[Glenn Sharp]

A lad I know always refers to asset stripping as acid stripping

[Glenn Sharp]

A couple of quick ideas on a similar theme from me….

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[Glenn Sharp]

Thanks for your reply David…

unfortunately none of those settings have improved matters…at the moment I have the preset set to ‘Simulate Colour Management Off’…this seems to be the only setting that gives the colours any vibrancy. If I set it to European, all the colours go extremely pale and washed out

I’d be interested to know if Phil or Martin have got anywhere with any of the suggestions so far ??

[Glenn Sharp]

Hi John,

Thanks for your suggestion but changing that setting only made a minimal difference

I’ve tried playing about with most of the different options in that colour management box and although some of them had quite obvious effects, I couldn’t get anything to match the original PDF viewed in Acrobat

[Glenn Sharp]

Thanks Alan, I’ll have a look at the settings you’ve mentioned

Davids input would be much appreciated as well

[Glenn Sharp]

I haven’t tried printing direct from Corel Martin but I’m not sure it would be possible anyway……I am printing via a large format UV flatbed that comes with it’s own software

I’ve tried converting the PDF’s to CMYK and RGB and although it does make a difference neither matches the original

[Glenn Sharp]

It happens in every Corel version we have….12, X5 and X6

[Glenn Sharp]

Hi Tim,

To be perfectly honest I’m not sure. I don’t know how I can tell.

Here’s the situation…….I get sent an artwork by email in PDF format…if I save the PDF and print directly from the RIP the output is very close to the original. As soon as I bring it into Corel, the colours change dramatically and if I was to then send it from corel to the rip the colours would be nothing like the original

I know I haven’t directly answered your question but I don’t know how to check the original values compared to when the drawing is brought into Corel

[Glenn Sharp]

Is that even possible David?

Have you found someone who can do it?

[Glenn Sharp]

It might be worth getting a price from a digital trade print specialist aswell David.

flood coating vinyl by screen printing is problematic at the best of times…..dust, squeegee marks, consistency of colour etc etc

I’m not saying it can’t be done but at todays digital trade prices (including lamination) you might get a better deal

[Glenn Sharp]

I don’t actually have the need for anything like this but my first thought would be to go for more of a washing line setup so the prints are hanging (pegged) to the line rather than lying flat

I would imagine it would take up less space and it would also allow the solvent gasses to ‘fall off’ the print as they dry

As I say, I haven’t done this……just a suggestion

[Glenn Sharp]

I second that Martin

All the best to everyone

[Glenn Sharp]

some really nice stuff there….particularly like the Jigsaw one

[Glenn Sharp]

Have you tried the latest Viagra software?

😳 sorry

[Glenn Sharp]

another different angle…..

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[Glenn Sharp]

quote James Phillips:

Am i the only one reading that as (A)RS(E) Joinery?

😮

not now you’re not 😕

[Glenn Sharp]

Nick,

I don’t know whether this helps you or not…

https://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.php?t=44375

[Glenn Sharp]

from concept to execution that is one of the best signs I have ever seen

Brilliant 😀

[Glenn Sharp]

quote DavidRogers:

quote Glenn Sharp:

Is it true Dibond?

There are many cheaper composites now that aren’t suited to bending because the outer aluminium skin is too thin

That’s what I used to think too.

Then I HAD to make a few trays out of cheapo i-bond / c-bond…and it worked perfectly fine.

Depth IS more critical to get right (leave 0.5mm plastic and the stupidly thin skin of 0.15mm) bends a treat.

I’ve also switched from using a 1/4″ half round to a 7mm flat bit for a more radiused edge.

I think you’ve been fortunate then David……we’ve done some tests with a few of the cheaper brands and have seen similar results to that in Adam’s picture

Surely the skin thickness must have some bearing on it or we could all be using hoarding grade ??

[Glenn Sharp]

Is it true Dibond?

There are many cheaper composites now that aren’t suited to bending because the outer aluminium skin is too thin

[Glenn Sharp]

It might also give you a burd bick

[Glenn Sharp]

second thoughts Hugh……you could try drawing the black border first……then draw on the white bits and trim them to the border (within Corel obviously…not on the van)

[Glenn Sharp]

Hugh…there is a similar option in the freehand pen tool and then select the brush option on the toolbar…It might be too similar though and give you exactly the same problem…

The only other quick fix I can think is to draw a border and nibble into it using the eraser tool….you might have more control that way

[Glenn Sharp]

😀

I’m glad this aint my round

[Glenn Sharp]

whoa, whoa, whoa a minute……Harry and Andrews parts in this were incidental…I think it’s clear that it was the colour change that brought this thread to a happy ending

cough..twelve pack of stella ..cough 😀

[Glenn Sharp]

The last one does it for me…cheers Harry

[Glenn Sharp]

I really like Andrews version of Harry’s design….just wondering what it would look like with the two greens swapped round…ie dark green outline

[Glenn Sharp]

That looks fantastic Ian…clean and sharp

How did you fix the cladding panels ?

[Glenn Sharp]

James….check your spelling of recommended 😉

[Glenn Sharp]

Just as well he didn’t apply the first rule of Engineering or DIY………..

1. Always use the correct tool for the job.

2. A hammer is the correct tool for any job.

3. Anything can be used as a hammer.

[Glenn Sharp]

What thickness was the tape?

Years ago we had a problem with acrylic pockets falling off our displays (especially near heat sources)……… we had been using 1 mm thick clear, double sided tape from 3M thinking this would be more than enough

It turned out that the weight of the pocket over time was effectively making the 1mm thick tape sag and then the pocket would fall off..in most cases bringing the tape with it. We were advised to use half mil thick tape as this would reduce the shear on the adhesive and it solved our problem

What were the conditions like when you revisited the shop to check the other letters?…….It may be worth going back on a hot day to see if there is any movement on the letters because the gel tapes will contract again and stiffen up when they cool

[Glenn Sharp]

quote Glenn Sharp:

I was typing while you posted that one….I think that’s the place for it as Tim pointed out

I would just tweak the monkey custard ( I reckon that’s the first and last time I’ll ever type that ) a bit…either right adjust or stretch ‘custard’ a bit so it’s the same length as ‘monkey’

[Glenn Sharp]

I was typing while you posted that one….I reckon that’s the place for it as Tim pointed out

I would just tweak the monkey custard ( I reckon that’s the first and last time I’ll ever type that ) a bit…either right adjust or stretch ‘custard’ a bit so it’s the same length as ‘monkey’

[Glenn Sharp]

I’d try a really subtle monkeys head in the top/rear of the tinted window and then drop the text down into the lower half of the window

I doubt it’s possible but can you apply the monkey’s head internally onto the film to make it even more subtle?

[Glenn Sharp]

I’m more inclined to think that the adhesive has failed between the acrylic and the composite.

The reason that they haven’t stuck the acrylic locators directly to the dibond is because it is problematic so to stick an acrylic backing to the letters will hold the same problems albeit with a larger gluing surface

As Neil has already said…it’s best to leave the cups with a bit of play….The letter stiffens up the cups when plugged into the sockets

[Glenn Sharp]

I would try and get as much information from your supplier as to exactly how they were made Phil.

What glue was used?

Was the Dibond laminated to the acrylic before the letters were routed or were they routed separately and then glued?……If it was the latter maybe they have been too sparing with the glue so it didn’t seep out over the edges?

Are the letters placed directly over a radiator or other heat source?

Does it have to be a Dibond face, could you not just use acrylic letters?……It’s difficult to tell from the picture what colour the letters are but even if it butler finish you could still cover acrylic letters in a brushed vinyl to get the same effect

[Glenn Sharp]

Nice one Martin….chuffed to bits for you

What’s your view on old ‘Hippo Heed’ though?…..I’ve been listening to a couple of hammers on a football forum who had very little time for Allerdyce even though they respected the position he had got the team into.

My view was just be happy with promotion at any cost and see what happens next season but as a Newcastle fan who had to ‘endure’ Big Sam’s way of playing the game I could also see why they weren’t overly enamored

Give me a shout if you plan on coming up to ST. JAMES’ PARK this season…..I’d love to have a couple of beers with you

[Glenn Sharp]

I couldn’t see any double sided ones bit it might be worth a call

http://www.greenham.com/c/pl/121288/600 … Sign-Frame

[Glenn Sharp]

Simon,

It sounds like a profiling issue (unless it is something which has just started happening)

We had the same problem with our UV flatbed and had the experts from Fujifilm come in and do some new profiles.

I’m probably over simplifying it because they did various tests which were measured with some top end calibration gear but effectively the profile we had been using was putting too much yellow down. Not enough to see in other colours so much but it meant the greys always had a green tinge to them

I don’t know what control you’ve got but maybe you could try dropping the yellow a bit

[Glenn Sharp]

Can you not sell them the idea of backing the bottom windows up with white or frosted or something Andy?

[Glenn Sharp]

I’m not sure if this information is a 100% accurate but I was once told that the expansion/contraction for 5mm acrylic is plus or minus 3mm per metre

I would say it’s a definite case of everything being fit a bit too tight

[Glenn Sharp]

No probs Jason…..glad you got it sorted

[Glenn Sharp]

Jason……

I think you might be missing something with the envelope tool. I’ve just tried it with an image I had on my screen of an estate agents board and it worked well

I grouped everything together……….Used ‘Putty’ mode and clicked on the little ‘unconstrained’ icon

On my image were eight control nodes…..I removed the centre node from the top and bottom and dragged a nice curve shape that would suit a mug

as I say…..it worked well for me

[Glenn Sharp]

I can’t offer any advice based on experience but if it was me doing this for the first time I’d be tempted to go with the second option Peter

I would mount the prints then cover them with with application paper to protect them while you rout the backs

I’m just imagining potential pitfalls with floppy ends through the easytaper 😮

[Glenn Sharp]

my particular favourite was the one where the firefighting planes were filling up with water over the sea……..weirdly though I didn’t notice any planes

[Glenn Sharp]

it sounds more like a template thing George……I’ve never done it before but I would imagine you could set it up as you want and then save it as a template….then open new template rather than drawing??

maybe??

[Glenn Sharp]

excuse my ignorance but what is the purpose of this kind of utility?

[Glenn Sharp]

I can’t help with your first question Andrew but hopefully I can with your second

There are a couple of ways to radius selected corners….

1) Using the shape tool….. Click off the selected object to deselect the four corner nodes and then simply click on the corner node you want to radius and drag

2) in the toolbar when you have the shape tool selected you will see a padlock centered between four dialogue boxes….you can type a value for each corner in there and treat each corner seperately

[Glenn Sharp]

To John

[Glenn Sharp]

Neil….I’ve found Corel does this once you tweak the shape of the rectangle. If you draw a shape on screen and then immediately round the corners it seems to do them evenly….once you change the size of the rectangle it seems to distort the corners for some reason

My work around for this is to draw the rectangle or square you want by stretching and scaling until it’s the correct size and then using ‘snap to objects’ draw another rectangle on top of your original……..because you haven’t stretched this one it should round the corners with no problems

I’m pretty sure this was covered before and there were a few alternative ways but this has always been the way I’ve got round it

[Glenn Sharp]

Howdo Jimmy 😀

[Glenn Sharp]

what was the brief Phil ?

[Glenn Sharp]

yep….the other way to do it would be with a ‘front loader’ but these have got to consist of at least two panels. This way you would fix the frame to the wall on all 4 sides and then fit the panels into the open aperture of the frame

There is a formula to follow with the panels being shorter than normal but you add springs into each end to force the panels back together again

The way you have made it just leaves the one end removable for future maintenance or panel changes

Just a word of warning Mo and apologies if it’s something you already know…….don’t use the permanent corners for your removable end….you won’t like yourself for a few hours

[Glenn Sharp]

You don’t Mo…….It just fixes to the top and bottom section of the frame

[Glenn Sharp]

Thanks harry…..great find

[Glenn Sharp]

Thanks very much Alan, that’s sorted it………I’ve heard about the F8 start but never had to use it before

Thanks as well George

[Glenn Sharp]

Thanks Alan

[Glenn Sharp]

I’m not sure if you can do it with the contour tool Neil…….can you get away with just putting a thick outline on and changing the corners to round ?? (all done in the outline pen dialogue box)

[Glenn Sharp]

they’re alright I suppose…….if high quality, classy concept signage is what you’re into :lol1:

[Glenn Sharp]

I’ve seen better creations made out of egg boxes and err… sticky back plastic on Blue Peter

[Glenn Sharp]

yep…re-wetting can be a problem

Prints feel touch dry on the surface but effectively they’ve just got a thin skin on them….placing something on top of them prevents the solvents from escaping which then re-wets the surface and you end up with all kinds of problems

[Glenn Sharp]

If I’m understanding you correctly Harry I think you could just have multiple pages to do what you want rather than layers

[Glenn Sharp]

I reckon there’s more than enough room to cram another one in 😮

[Glenn Sharp]

quote Denise Goodfellow:

“Black Mamba”

mmmmmmmm name rings a bell, but can`t put my finger on it! 😀

just as well it wasn’t on the tip of your tongue 😮

[Glenn Sharp]

Cambridge to Newcastle Martin…not even different countries.

Their idea of a compromise was that we could send our own courier to pick these up but I kid you not when I say that these items could have been put in the post for a couple of quid in a normal envelope

[Glenn Sharp]

similar thing happened to me this week…….

I wanted to order 10 small plastic filters for one of our machines @ £3.30 each inc vat…..I was then told that there was a minimum order value of £50.

I begrudgingly bumped the order up with some more items to reach the minimum order value to then be told that carriage was £50.00 for standard service (2-3 days) or £150.00 for next day

so in order to get the ten little filters (£33.00) which would have rattled round in an A5 jiffy bag it was going to cost me upward of a hundred quid.

I’m looking elsewhere without much success at the minute

[Glenn Sharp]

As I say it’s ages since I last used one but I thought it had to register all 6 cartridges before you could do anything

[Glenn Sharp]

It’s that long since I used one but does it do a cartridge check when it starts up?

Could it be it’s looking for a cartridge that isn’t there or there is a cartridge in each holder and one in the head?

[Glenn Sharp]

I personally think you’d get away with 4 at that size….it’s a narrow display and if someone does lean on it it would only bend

In the past we have used 25 mm Satin S/S standoffs with a couple of the snapfix Jumbo locators invisibly fitted in the middle just to stiffen displays up whilst not looking too industrial and keeping costs down

[Glenn Sharp]

Macky,

Never had any problems dealing with these people….

http://www.seagullbalustrades.com/indiv … mps-clips/

[Glenn Sharp]

Any good?…………

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[Glenn Sharp]

what thickness are the letters Hugh?

have you got enough thickness to drill and tap the letter to accept threaded bar?

[Glenn Sharp]

I’ve never actually done it George but I would imagine you could place a transparency lens over the sign to darken it as if it was night time and then use the interactive transparency tool (the little wine glass) to create a fade effect of the light getting darker the further down the sign it goes

I think 😕

[Glenn Sharp]

in Brush Script?

[Glenn Sharp]

what decal are you putting on Phil?

Mind
The
Steps

😉

[Glenn Sharp]

but you want too don’t you? :lol1:

[Glenn Sharp]

I can’t offer any help with the font John but just wanted to comment on what an awful name that is to read

I was reading it MIGAN GLIA & MIGANG LIA before I realised what it said..

[Glenn Sharp]

Not sure if you are asking for advice on this one or not David but I would stay clear of foam for a job like this. Although you would probably be hanging the panels they would still be liable to warp and they will no doubt give you problems over time at the join.

You can get ACM for under £30 a sheet now….I would suggest you look at that before jumping into the foam route

[Glenn Sharp]

Have you looked at the Spandex Slatz system Peter?

http://www.spandex.com/UK/sign_systems/ … Slatz.aspx

[Glenn Sharp]

That looks fantastic Ade….top drawer

[Glenn Sharp]

will it be up for long Brian or is the season over before you know it ?

[Glenn Sharp]

It’s not just general spelling though that causes problems, it’s phone numbers, web sites and email addresses which the customer has to take a certain responsibility for making sure are all correct

[Glenn Sharp]

[Glenn Sharp]

David,

I wasn’t looking for thanks….just recognition that I hadn’t totally wasted my time

[Glenn Sharp]

I don’t want to sound too petty about this but it’s something that gets right on my nerves and I think it goes against everything these boards stand for…

David…This is the second thread where you’ve asked for design help or inspiration. On both occasions myself and others have took time out to offer suggestions and ideas and both times you’ve completely ignored those who have tried to assist.

Why ask for ideas if you can’t be bothered to reply?

https://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.php?t=48868

[Glenn Sharp]

As I say though Peter……this thread is all about accelerating curing times.

Just to repeat my point about the print line that we use……..we run it at 55 degree heat and the boards travel about 8ft in distance and come off dry (no re-wetting when the boards are stacked together……..If I ran the line with temperature set to zero which would still have the same air circulation than with the heat on the boards would be wet. It would be a lot cheaper to run if we could run them cold

I’m not saying that they are fully cured but in my simple mind the curing process has definitely been accelerated by the introduction of heat

Same thing with our Grenadier…..we have the heaters on so we can use the take up roll……No heaters = sticky prints and problems on the take up roll….heaters on = no problems on the take up roll

I’m no chemist but I would also imagine that most people are drying their prints at room temperature which I would have thought would cure quicker than someone drying their prints in an outside shed with no controlled heating

I might have got this totally wrong but I just can’t see how heat doesn’t play a part in accelerating curing times

[Glenn Sharp]

My two penneth worth supports the theory that heat definitely aids the curing process

I have over 25 years experience in the screen printing industry and most of those years were spent printing double sided estate agents boards. Back in the day we would be doing runs of 50 – 100 boards and the only way they would dry in time in order to print the other side was by using heat. Our setup was basically vertical racks where the boards would be slid in flat and rested on nails either side, an extractor fan at ground level to take away the fumes and a space heater in front to heat and blow air at the boards

In simple terms…Fan on and no heat = Boards don’t dry quickly enough in order to turn over and print other side……Fan and heat = Boards dry in about 5 minutes

We now have a three quarter automatic line. The drying unit uses hot air which allows us to print around 400 prints an hour. Try doing 400 prints an hour with no heat on the unit and you’d be left with a complete mess in the collection tray

Although we have had our Grenadier for about 10 years now we have never needed to laminate for the applications we use it for so I can not offer any advice or theories as to how long to leave it before lamination. I do think however that supporting Peter’s theory….If you were to leave the lid off your solvent inks, I doubt very much that you would have the same amount of ink in the bottle after a week or so

My own theory is that the way Rob hangs his prints is the most effective way to allow the solvent to evaporate.

[Glenn Sharp]

some kind of L shape bracket screwed to the outside of the case and then to the the surface it’s sat on maybe?

Or take the outer case off and see if there is anywhere you could drill a couple of holes to screw through and screw fix to the bench ??

[Glenn Sharp]

Spandex do a range, as do others

http://www.spandex.com/UK/sign_systems/ … Slatz.aspx

[Glenn Sharp]

quick one from me…….

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[Glenn Sharp]

I agree with Phil….just duplicate the artwork on top of the original and make sure both copies are sent through together

I’ve got to ask why though ??

[Glenn Sharp]

some nice looking stuff Ben….really like the simplicity of the pallet force car

Thanks for sharing 😀

[Glenn Sharp]

could you post it up as an editable image George…for those who want a play

[Glenn Sharp]

Craig

We have had the Epson 9800 for about 4 or 5 years now and not had one problem with it. It isn’t used every day because we got it mainly to do artworks for the screen printing department.

It could be left for a month and you just switch it on, give it a quick clean and you’re ready to go. The ultrachrome inks are good for up to 70 years apparently

Never had the need for an Engineer as nothing has ever gone wrong

This printer is one I would have no hesitation in recommending at all….obviously if you are buying second hand the risks are the same as anything else

Great bit of kit