red dragon
Forum Replies Created
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Thanks Rob,
What would be the best way to contact him, since I can’t remember the name of his window company 😕
Thanks
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Hi Linda,
I dye-sub onto numerous items, I would strongly recommend you take a look at http://www.dyesub.org. They are US based but a wealth of knowledge.
Novachrome also do a dye-sub t-shirt, and I believe Listawood are looking into this also.
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Don’t know on the Camm1 but considering doing a mix on the noises from the PC60, might even become the “Tried and Tested” of the week on Radio 1 😛
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I’ve used my Mug Pro press for over 4 years now, this is one of the first generation of presses (i.e. not capable of doing the steins or attaching the plate press). My only trouble with it came from me, forgot to put a mug back in and left element open, consequences new element needed. That was over 4 years ago now, and it’s still printing strongly.
I use Listawoods mugs (both earthenware and bone china) and adjust pressure, time and temp accordingly.
I’ve been considering plates for a while now, had thought of getting the puck available from USA, but also have the option of the plate press attachment onto my Geo Knight DC heat press. Guess I just need to know the market output before commiting to the cost involved.
Becky I can print round the mug up to about 1/4″ each side of the handle, doesn’t yours do that?
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Novachrome used to supply Sawgrass Sublijet (whoops I swore) inks.
I tried Lyson inks, but their black wasn’t quite right.
I now use Rotech from Listawood, and wouldn’t change for anything.
They “NEVER” clog, and they have now sorted out the chipped cartridges, so Epson Monitor readings are more accurate. (Know this since I’m just coming to the end of a magenta cartridge)
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If you are going the 6 ink road, make sure it’s with individual cartridges. You will find the one that gets used up the quickest if magenta. If all the colours are in 1 cartridge (except black of course) you will be wasting a lot of ink at every change.
I know this from experience my previous subli printers being an Epson 850 (still working but with ordinary inks), C80 (died a premature death), I now use a C82, and have had no problems with this or the cartridges.
It all comes down in the end to what size of transfer you are looking at doing, if you’ll never take advantage of A3+ there is no need to pay the extra £400 plus (for the Epson 2100).
Just my input and thoughts.
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Further on what Lorraine said, is your heat press a clam style or swing head. If you want to do metal and tiles it’s better to have the swing head one, since they tend to have a floating head (not sure on phrase here) but it allows for thicker items, and maintains a level heat area.
You will also need a silicone rubber pad which allows the transfer to mould itself around the contours of a tile or metal coaster.
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NovaChrome on Anglesey do this kind of coaster, it’s one I use myself often. Make sure you ask for the framed ones or you’ll end up with ‘orrible plastic stick on bottoms.
Metal comes in a variety of colours and finishes.
Forgot to mention we adhere ours with clear silicone, gives the coaster a bit of weight.
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Hi James,
To be perfectly honest I don’t use the colour correction software, only the ICC profile supplied from Rotech themselves. It’s very rare I have to correct colours (only one recently was for a particular breed of dog, which should be creamy, and the ICC was printing a bit to yellow, sorted in the end).
A lot of my subli items recently have been based around red items, and they’ve worked out fine.
I use Corel Draw 11, and noticed on the screen the difference in colours between 8 and 11, so I now only use 8 for files relating to Corel 5. I still have to load 5 now and again to open older .cmx files such as those from Corel Art Show.
Visit the Rotech site, register and they will send you a link to download the ICC, that’s they way I got mine.
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Aaaah the memories, Saw Hawkwind twice, early Genesis around the time of Nursery Crime album, and of course Yes at the Hardrock Manchester, Deep Purple (x2) Nazareth, Thin Lizzy (yes they even came to Chester in their very early days), thinking about it so did Status Quo! Those were the days. 😎
Trouble now is I’d feel like a Granny if I went to see Oakey & Tiesto. 👿
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I only listen to radio 1 at certain times, i.e. 6-9 Friday, 6-9 Sat, 7-9 Sunday. The rest of the time it’s radio 2 or the hifi.
When Claire was looking for music to accompany her garments in the Fashion Show at college we went through everything from Classical, Hawkwind (Hall of the mountain Grill, wonderful instrumetal on there), Alan Parsons Project, Ozzy (early Sabbath) through to Paul Oakenfold and DJ Tiesto (2 brilliant trance masters), in the end she settled for Rank1 and their track Airwave but in a chill-out beat, not the full on trance. It was then left to mum to edit and cut in at the right moment to give her 3.5 minutes of music.
A few years back I struggled to get hold of Pink Floyds copy of “Obscurred by Clouds” no one had seemed to hear of it, now it’s available everywhere.
My favourite Floyd Tracks have to be “Coming back to life” and “Keep Talking”, but on the more up to date side it has to be Paul Van Dyk (for those who don’t know who he is he’s the bloke on the Motorola C350 Ad)and “Tell me why” off his Out there and back album.
Out of curiosity has anyone out there heard of a group from the 70’s called “Neu” they were similar to Kraftwerk, I came across their album in a small record shop in Chester during that time, and they were recommended by Dave Brock (Hawkwind) so I thought I’d give them a try, ended up buying all 3 albums they did!
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Sitting here listening to Pete Tong on Radio 1 at this present moment. Love that house/trance 😎
Also tend to listen to Floyd, Zepp etc that was the only way to get energy into music at one time.
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Kevin,
The bloke who owns and runs TG was/is a regular contributor on the dye-sub forum, he is quiet at the moment due to some law suit going on in the states with Sawgrass. It got very heated at one stage on the forum since a lot of the members use TG inks.
I know what you mean over the array of subtrates available in the USA, we are still very much in the infancy stage overhere.
Hold on! was talking to Ken Davies a couple of weeks ago, and he can cut any shape you require out of the Unisub sheets which can be obtained through Xpres or NovaChrome. He showed me a Kingfisher he had just done for someone it was superb.
He is a forum member posting an into a while back, was very impressed with his set up and Ken himself, well worth a query I reckon.
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I’ve been doing sublimation printing now for over 4 years. Started out with just mugs, and have expanded into t-shirts, tiles, mousemats etc (when I obtained my heat press).
I’ve tried various suppliers for their mugs, and have found Listawood mugs (both earthenware and bone china) to be extremely durable on their washability (is there such a word ?), this in combination with Rotech Inks gives superb piece of mind when selling on these items. I’ve got 2 mugs which live permanently in my dishwasher (1 earthenware, 1 bone china) the first one has been in the dishwasher for over 15 months now and shows very little if any deteriation on print. The bone china one has only lived there for 4 months so far, and again the same result.
Both mugs have photo prints on them, the bone china has an additional logo in a ruby red colour.
I use a Mug Pro mug press (obtained 2nd hand) and other than my own negligence (forgot to place mug in press when switched on 🙁 and had to replace the element ) it has not been any problem.
The Mug Pro press is obtainable from NovaChrome (UK) based on Anglesey
URL: http://www.novachrome.co.ukMy set up is as follows:
Epson C82 printer (individual cartridges cmyk)
Mug Pro Mug Press
Geo Knight Digital Combo Heat PressI stick with Epson Photo Quality Inkjet paper for mugs pressing at approx 370 deg.F. for 2.5 minutes (earthenware) – 400 deg F. for 3.75 minutes on bone china (the press requires extra silicone rubber padding to take these type of mugs, I use 2 pieces of Listawoods thinner rubber between the mug and the teflon coated element.)
For Tiles I again use the same paper pressing for 6min 10sec at 200 deg C. on the Duracoat tiles, have still to fully experiment on the gloss tiles. I have used the Rotech Jewel transfer paper but find it takes a long time to dry the ink, and can leave unwanted marks on the substrate.
Hope the above is of help.
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You know what you come up with if you play around with the letters of “Capri” now don’t you Phil? 😀
That’s what they generally get called here 😉
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I’ve been using a C82 for a couple of months now, no problems so far – touch wood, since I’ve already lost a C80 to subli-inks, one of those unidentifiable problems, but sorted by Listawood to both parties satisfaction.
Did you run the original epson carts through the printer before fitting the Subli inks, as this is recommended. Did the black print then?
Get straight on the phone to Listawood they will be more than willing to help sort this out for you. I have been using Listawood for supplies and inks for 15 months now and have had very few problems with their goods.
On UV artanium inks, did you get your system from Tropical Graphics?
Having run Sawgrass inks in the past and lived with daily clogging of heads, to the extent of wasting whole cartridges and still not a decent nozzle check pattern, any ink would be an improvement.
I currently run my C82 on Rotech from Listawood, and not one clogged head as yet, only had to perform 2 head cleans on my current set of cartridges which is no different from running any normal inks through an inkjet printer.
Kevin have you visited the Dye-sub forum on the net, they are a wealth of information and help.
URL: http://www.dyesub.org -
Another important factor with heat tape is definately match it to the manufacturer or supplier of your mugs. I learnt this when I changed to Listawood. Used the heat tape I had from NovaChrome and it left marks on the Listawood mugs. Changed to their tape – problem solved.
Works the other way too – tried Listawood tape with NovaChrome metal – marks remained. Used NC tape no marks.
Life is full of little foibles.
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Jom,
You are in the lucky situation of being in the States. The range of inks and options for cutting to you are far higher than they would be this side of the pond. 😕
For what you have outlined I would recommend the inkjet option, but instead of cartridges I’d look into a bulk ink supply system, utilizing Archival inks (this would double the longevity of aging along with the doming) these are available for many of the Epson range.
There is a program available out there marketed by a Swedish company called SignCut2002, they have a module called SignDecal Pro (I think that’s correct) this comes with a device which would allow you to cut out the printed decals, without having to buy any specific cutter. This can be used as a stand alone program or as a plug-in for Corel.
The company name is Whisqu Graphics
http://www.whisqu.seIf not have a look at Xpres they have also released a cutting system which you can use to cut printed items from another printer source.
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No but I’ve experienced Epsons Chipped cartridges and sublimation ink.
A word of warning UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES PUT 3RD PARTY CHIPPED CARTRIDGES NEAR AN EPSON PRINTER.
I’ve just experienced the print head burning out and consequently scrapping my C80 (11 months old). This was fitted with Rotech inks which obviously invalidates my original Epson warranty. If anyone is interested I can post pictures of what the end result looks like.
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Phil,
I don’t know whether the “ribbon saving” option on the PC600 a difference on their costs comparisons, but the PC60 keeps advancing its ribbon even if it’s not printing at a specific point.
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Welcome Paul,
Told you the Welsh were taking over Rob 😀
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Hey Becky,
My first car was a 1968 Austin Mini Cooper 998cc. Tartan Red with Black Roof, used to go around the Race Circuits marshalling.
Now drive other forms of FrWD. 😆
Don’t marshall now, haven’t since the kids arrived, just participate in the odd track day here and there. Next one due end June at Anglesey.
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If that’s the one with the stars and strippy bits send me your e-mail addy.
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I’ve put a picture of one of the tiles I’ve done in the “Show us your stuff” section.
It does give you an idea of what can be done with sublimation.
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Sorry Ruth,
Just noticed the end of your topic. What plotter do you have?
When I spoke to xpress last it is possible to print onto their t-shirt transfer paper then kiss cut using your plotter.
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Yes Sawgrass have lots of tech info and advice. BUT their inks have a habit of clogging in the print head. I know this from experience, having used SG inks for 3 years believe me I was glad to see the back of them. Yes, they supply colour correction software for free, BUT then again every time you buy any of their cartridges due to their high pricing you’re paying for this software.
It is possible to sub onto 50/50 T-shirts but the image will not be as well defined as those with a full polyester coating.
If you want to stay with non subli inks you can obtain better transfer papers than what is available at PC World. Quite a few suppliers now do these,
ie. Merlin Transfer Papers
Xpres
GraphitypI would recommend getting some Archival Inks for your printer and sticking to these if it’s only T-shirts that you want to produce.
Lyson do an ink called Lysonic – I got cartridges for my Epson 1200 from Cartex Limited they cost
Black – £9.99
5 colour £12.99 + VAT of course.It is also possible to obtain papers for printed onto dark fabrics, the trick there is to apply an outline area in a similar colour to the T-shirt you are using then cut and apply with the heat press. With using this outline you don’t need to be too acurate in your cutting as it will blend into the background.
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Wow, where did you find that!
It would mainly be for the car based items that I do, then sell them at the meetings held throughout the year.
I can do A3+ at the moment, but just wondered on the larger.
Suppose I could stick with the tile mural option, but get Car people to pay the price, may as well go looking for Broadband around here 😆
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Hi Rebecca,
I now stick with Listawood on both Inks, and supplies. Their mugs I have proven to be dishwasher proof (now testing the Bone China type).
Have recently started subbing onto tiles, they are so easy, and the end result can be stunning.
I currently use an Epson C80 for my subli work (4 individual ink cartridges) there have been a few problems in the past with these, but they now seem to have been sorted.
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Didn’t mean to step on your toes Phil. 😳
Just trying to help (angel)
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No Phil,
You changed the machine 😮
Adrian said PC60 you said PC600
only 600dpi between them 😉
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Martin C,
With you using flock a lot, how does your machine stand up to this, does it end up with a build up of filaments from the flock at all?
Just very cautious about putting this near my PC60, don’t want another bill for a head yet.
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Martin,
I’ve subbed onto a flag for a friend, watch out for the nylon thread used to assemble these things, it MELTS bigtime. Had to re-sew the edges, couldn’t give it him back that way.
😮
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I can definately confirm they are dishwasher proof 😀
I’ve had one living in my dishwasher since I changed to Rotech inks and Listawood mugs April/May last year, machine used everyother day (unless there are lots of pans 😡 ) hot fill running through a full wash cycle at 65deg. The only part I don’t use if the drying cycle. Water temp is hot enough to dry them anyway.
I’ve now got this one and a bone china in there.
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I’ve used NovaChrome Mugs, Xpres mugs and now stick with Listawood, but then again I make a point of stating mugs are british made. The conical problem would have been introduced at time of initial manufacture by Tams, and nothing to do with the coating applied.
Haven’t had any problems with text.
I’ve also just started using Listawoods Windsor Bone China mugs, only mod required was an extra piece of Silicon Rubber placed between mug press and mug, an increase in pressing time and temp. They’ve worked out well.
If anyone needs a piece of polar fleece to experiment with I have some offcuts here, let me know.
Becky, with you stating NovaChrome I assume you have the Mug Pro press. I wonder if these plates are the ones for Steins and the 15oz mugs available in the States. Interesting thought that.
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Hi Kevin,
Chris has the feeling it involves vacumn and heat tunnel, rather like the shrink wrap machines which form packaging.
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Hi Martin,
They’re hoping to introduce the jewelry boxes, but like most things it all depends on the price. I’ve asked Becky to keep me informed on these, and any other interesting items they may add. I’ve just started to do some tile murals admittedly it is only 18×12″ but you have to start somewhere.
The 3D box allows application of special sublimatable film onto a 3D object, you print onto the film, then place into box and it then applies this onto said object.
It took me a couple of tries to get to talk to someone at Xpres, I asked over the fleece thing, but since I don’t want to put flock near the PC60 I never took it any further.
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We went along Wed 19th. I was rather disappointed to, hoped some of the subli suppliers would have picked up on the goodies available in the States but NO.
Listawood are in process of introducing a couple of things which apply more to the things I do, their wooden jewel boxes for tile insertion looked interesting, and learnt what other things they hope to introduce in the future.
Chris examined the 3D box thingy (can’t remember what its actual name is) and we may have discovered a way to do these type of things without spending on the box, hehe. I’ll have to get some of the foil to experiment 😎
I’d also been after those glittery mugs since I first saw them at Nova Chrome a couple of years ago. Thanks Xpres for introducing them, now all I need is a bronze coloured one 🙂
Learned a couple of things, like how to pad out bags etc to apply transfer film, and not melt zips and what haveyou. Yes I know it’s logical how it’s done but I’ve never done them before.
Had a couple of things to deliver whilst down there so thankfully missed out on to much of the Motorway mahem.
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We’re going down. Again not sure which day yet, have to sort out someone to take care of Matthew, he’d be bored silly if we took him along 😕
Chalkie, yes you can just turn up at the door and fill in the form.
Our tickets came through last week. I’d tried to register online but their link was not working. Kept getting “Sorry we don’t know who sent you here” blurb. So I phoned them the following day and just faxed the form through. -
Jill,
Avery do a Polyester based Industrial Label.
This is supposed to be petrol, oil and grease proof.
If you’ve got a Fineline or suchlike catalogue they are in there.
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Don’t you like Tigers then Rob 🙁
OR
Maybe it’s just 4x4s 👿
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Hi Becky,
At Printwear & Promotion last year picked up a sample for Ink jet from a company called Merlin Transfers (I think). I’ve not tried it yet, but it came with a sort of silicone transfer sheet. Seem to remember they also do one for Dark Fabrics. Will dig out phone No and Web addy and post tomorrow.
Also Grafityp do one for Ink Jet but sure it needs to be pigmented inks, mine are dye based.
I’ve been using Xpres stuff through the Citizen Printiva for the moment, and of course the Subli.
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Hi Martin,
I’m more than pleased with the colours on the mousemats. I haven’t tried this yet, but, on the dye sub forum they recommend pre heating the mousemat for a few seconds (similar to tees).
With you getting everything of Xpres I assume you’re using SG inks – watch those printer heads – they will clog. I used SG for 2 years and was glad to see the back of them.
I get my tees, polos (subli) and cutting transfer film from Xpres, and find them a great firm to deal with.
For mugs, mousemats, inks I stick with Listawood, I prefer their mugs, and they really are dishwasher proof. I’ve had one living in the dishwasher since I first installed the inks (april/may) washed at 65deg (hot fill dishwasher) and it’s still good.
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Careful Rob,
Us Welshies are catching you Scots up! 😆
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Ah but how many of you knew that the Gill Sans font is the one used currently by SAAB on their vehicles.
Not a lot of people know that 😮
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Thanks Martin,
That was what I wondered, to be doubly sure I’ll see what we have hidden in the depths of the garage. Don’t worry I’ve only had to pay for the cost of the vinyl. So there’s still plenty of profit to play around with.
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Hi Mike, Martin,
The sign was done on 4mm Crystalite acrylic, A3 in size. These will be mounted on an outside rendered wall as warning notices. The reason for reverse mounting was the prevent the little darlings from picking the letters off. With some of the kids in the village they don’t need to be mounted low for them to have a go at them.
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Hi Jim & Martin,
For the blades I’d to Mathias who advertise on this site. They do a brilliant job, and they’re well priced.
Cartridges – Depends if you want OEM or compat. I get my OEMs from Signmaster Systems, if you pay by card at the time of order you get them for £10.00+ VAT+P&P. Still testing the compats not quite sure of their quality at the moment.
I currently get the self-cling from Victory Designs it costs £2.15 per metre it’s 1M wide but they will splice in half at no extra cost.
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nother fairly good source for software (programs and clipart) are the computer fairs. A lot of the programs tend to be OEM, but they still perform as they should. I’ve obtained quite a few clipart collections this way. Biggest bargain though was a couple of years ago, IMSI Masterclips 100.000 full whack for £30.00, it normally retailed then around £65.00. The other was Corel Gallery 100.000 for £10.00 only problem was the program didn’t have the english version on it, but who cares when it’s the pictures your after.
Look at a few of the computer magazines in the newsagents, they sometimes come with a free clipart disc (This months PC Advisor has one on it)
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Hi Gav,
This was similar to the problem I was experiencing with my PC60, when you print using spot colour, are you getting white lines between, instead of the coloured banding? If so then it could well be the head 🙁
Have you tried cleaning the head with the supplied Alcohol pen, or cleaning sheet?
Visit http://www.rolanddga.com and read their forum pages for colorcamm, it may help you find a solution.
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Hi Gav,
I have my Epson C80 set as a dedicated sublimation printer, since I have the use of 3 others it’s not a problem.
Lorraine is right in respect of not changing from one form of cartridge to another. The main reason being if i recall correctly is that some of the ink remains in the chamber, and if changing from normal to subli would not give a vivid enough transfer. Even when you fit the subli inks for the first time its always better to print off a couple of A4 sheets (obviously at the lowest resolution) to ensure the subli inks are coming through the head and not the remains of standard ink.
If done visa versa, then the normal ink printouts would like very washed out.
From my experience the Rotech (Listawood) inks are definately not as problematic as the Sawgrass inks, in that they do not appear to clog the print head with pigment residue, and it might be worth trying.
I always print a nozzle check before printing out anything anyway, it’s cheaper than a lost A4 sheet. 😛
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Hi Gav,
I use the sublimation inks for transfer onto mousemats.
Not tried transfer paper method.
You would be right though that you print in mirror, then transfer with heat press. If it’s still on the board I’ve posted a pic of one of the subli mousemats that I’ve done, take a look at that.
Best place to get them I would say is Listawood Trade Supplies
Tel. No: 01485 529100
They do three different thicknesses of mat prices start from 51p for rectangular and 46p for round.Hope this helps
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Thanks Lorraine,
I’d wondered about the stuff from Xpress sounds a lot more stable in the plotter. I’d backed the sheet of Texicut with some transfer tape to give it a bit more body, but finding the cutting outine was a bit of a pain. I’ll give Xpress a ring tomorrow. Have you had any experience with the Target Transfer stuff?
Rholee they don’t have a website as yet, but if Lorraine says Xpress product is far superior then that’s good enough for me.
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You may sit sorrected if you want Phil 😀
No it’s taken a long time to build up the database, that’s why I haven’t shouted about this side of things, still a lot to be done though. 😥
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Oh yes they do Phil, me. Even if I specialise in one marque, all the others are also available.
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Having read all the posts relating to this, I called Prnt One on Friday, and the package arrived this morning. They look interesting, will let everyone know how I get on with them. Some interesting metallics available by the looks of things.
It would appear from what they told me on Friday that if your machine has a particular version of Firmware loaded it can cause the breaking problem, and that’s why they send out a full set of samples to begin with.
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Hi Gav,
Yes I use a Mug Pro heat press, but they can be done in a domestic oven (if it can reach 200deg C), though reject factor is higher.
I tried the oven method on Listawoods Bone China mugs and it worked well, but I think there was a lot of luck involved, since this was the first time I’d tried this.
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Yes Andy they’d spliced the roll. Arrived nearly bagged in two 500mm. Not quite as many or as much for one of the jobs I’ve done on it. But left me with plenty of profit making for other stickers 😀
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I’ve just done some stickers using Static Window Cling. Worked wonderfully through the PC60. Seem to remember using something similar many years ago when I had the Cooper, saves having the visor in the way. Got it from Victory Designs but they only have it in white or clear.
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Hi Jill,
Have a word with Tim at Ruthin Car Sales, he does window tinting and may well be able to suggest applications etc.
Hope this helps
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This one was done a while ago, yet another thing I need to update. Oh and they’re laminated that’s why the scans not very good.
Hey I’ve just thought Mike only wanted these so he can phone us all up in the middle of the night, and say “gottya”
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Hi Gav,
Images now loaded for you. Just click on Subaru Images on main page and I’ve uploaded 6 different ones for you.
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Hi Gav,
To give you as good a picture as possible, and to save on the boards bandwidth I’ll load the pictures to the following site http://www.99turbo.co.uk this is my site that I use as a stepping ground for any pictures people may want. I’ll have to dig out the CD I’ve downloaded them onto, so please give me till tomorrow. Glad to be of help.
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Hi Gavin,
I don’t have an outline but plenty of our own pictures would any of these be of help?
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Hi All,
Just to whet your appetites more for Sublimation I’ve posted a picture of one of the coasters I’ve done recently. This is printed onto Matt Aluminium and encased in a platic surround. Printed at 1440dpi using the Listawood inks.
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Grear Rob,
I’ve been wondering myself where to get hold of a larger roller, like Andy have the small stamper version.
Thanks for the Welsh flag, now one happy dragon 😛
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Hi Martin,
I’d go to Listawood, they have vast knowledge of sublimation. Having used Sawgrass Inks for the past 3 years I’ve now moved over to Listawood’s Rotech inks. And so far they appear excellent. Black is more sharp, their Coffee Mugs are better too. Print definition is pin sharp to the extent you can even read the badge on the bonnet.
Listawood can be contacted at the following
Tel: 01485 529100
Web: http://www.listawoodtradesupplies.co.ukThey are at Sign UK next week, if you’re going have a word with them there.
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Eddie,
Have you looked at the Corel Plug-in called Sign Tools, this is an Australian software. It would appear to be capable of doing what you want. I’ve only looked at the trial version, so can’t comment on full ability. I think it retails at 395Au Dollars, if you do a search on E.bay for vinyl cutters available to UK, it comes up there. I know of a company in the UK selling this plug-in, go to http://www.signmaster.co.uk.
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Hi Lorraine,
No problem. just ask away. Spent the rest of the day, printing and pressing onto Metal Coasters. Sure makes car body work look good.
Only thing must make something to lift them off the heat press (transfer temp 180deg, for 1 min) makes for very hot metal – ouch my poor fingers. 😆
Sharon
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I can’t comment tomuch on this, having only had mine for around 6weeks. My head replacement was down to negligence on behalf of the seller, long drawn out story would take days to relate and still leaves a very bitter taste.
I got this machine to reproduce classic/vintage car stickers and cut graphics, before getting this I used a Citizen Printiva 700 (same basic technology ie thermal printing) but their ribbons were not suitable for normal vinyl, had to resort to Inkjet vinyl which worked, plus it does not cut!!! What I think it boils down to is "horses for courses" I don’t do many large jobs in colour printing. But for the sticker side it’s great. Yes, it cuts fairly slow, but at the moment it’s quicker than scissors, and able to do the intricate sections which otherwise would be impossible.
I had considered Rolands new PC12 but varying reports on problems made me look further, and this one came along.
Bear in mind also the Metallic print capability of this machine, is there an inkjet/solvent out there capable of this?
Roland UK are now their own company having split from the mother USA in Jan this year, maybe their whole attitude now could change.
Just my 2pence worth.
Have a nice break everyone.
Sharon
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Hi Paul,
Thought I’d let you know i run my Colour Cam through a Manual Switch box (along with 3 other printers) have experienced no communication problems so far, even though Roland don’t recommend this, but then again neither do any other manufacturers
Sharon
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Thanks all for the help. Will look into suggestions. It’s great being able to enquire instead of spending precious time surfing and getting nowhere.
Sharon
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Brian,
There are a couple of CD printing machines up on Ebay at the moment. They come up under a search for printers. One is the Seiko Precision like Robert recommended. Worth a look.
Sharon
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Hi Paul,
Nice, my very first car was a 1968 Austin Mini Cooper, I still have 1 No. Plate, original steering wheel and sumpguard, but it was still a fun car. Now very much into Saabs (all kinds), we’re building a 2dr 99 Turbo to compete in Sprints, it’s a long job isn’t it. Now back on topic, I’m really after something that covers cars from the 60’s through up to GroupB and beyond. I know I’m asking for the earth, but there may just be something out there, you never know.
Thanks
Sharon -
Hi Robin-a
When I bought my heatpress last year, I went to Signmaster Systems in Market Drayton, they are goods people to deal with. They sell the Geo Knight range of presses, I went for the Digital Combi 15×15, mainly because my printer was not A3, so why pay the extra. The upside with this particular heatpress is that you can change the lower with accessories (extra obviously) to be able to print, plates caps or mugs. They are also cheaper than Xpress and the Magic Touch. Go to http://www.signmaster.co.uk and take a look.
Sharon
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Hi Rob,
I get my Mousemats from Listawood (for sublimation) they are much better quality than any of the others I’ve used, maybe slighly greyer, but once printed this doesn’t become a problem.
Sharon
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Thanks Robert & Brian,
The fact that it is such a limited market has been the problem for a while. At present I have had to resort to quite a few hours of hard graphic graft to get a lot of my artwork. It would have been nice to be able to just get something "off the shelf" so to speak. Especially when it comes down to the more popular classic/historic rally cars.
Sharon
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Oops forgot to answer some of the questions.
According to the seller he had no problems with banding other than when printing larger graphics.
I have not had any prints other than the black with the trapping option set without banding.
The machine was purchased orginally by the seller in 1999 from Xpress.Thanks again
Sharon -
Hi Robert,
Thanks for replying, there is quite a tale behind the purchase of this machine, rather long and complicated. So to cut it as short as possible, the printhead had to be removed to replace the cartridge holder which had been dislodged by one of the cartridges. It may well be that this is now out of balance with the ribbons. Althoug the cutting side works perfectly.
The reason I work with vector is so that the clarity of the finished item is more defined, some of these are made from solid colours.
I will try your suggestions and let you know how I get on, in the meantime it would be brilliant if you could ask the people you know. Thank you.
I was so pleased to find a forum over this side of the pond, Thanks for setting it up.Sharon