[Pane Talev]

quote Mark Elvin:

Hi, we did a couple of vans last year for a customer, both transits and fitted printed panels into the side panels and rear doors and trimmed in with a scalpel to follow the contour of the panel.

The customer now says his vehicle is rusting where we cut the prints. How does everyone else do this sort of job? Do you cut them on or off the vehicle?

Is the customer being reasonable in his expectations?

Any thoughts welcome.

Mark

Agree with the knifeless tape.
Another way is to print panels.
Trace panel on the van with backing paper.
Trim prints on he table using the traced template.
Apply pre-cut prints.

[Pane Talev]

Another half a moan/half a view point.
Never under charge a job while thinking – Its only a print job. I will start the printer and do something else…
It never works that way… (corrupted files, gradients effects…)

[Pane Talev]

quote Jean Oakley:

You could keep it on the vehicle and put writing on it to say ‘This is why you must pay for the right material’ on the other side print with the right material and basically use it as a sample vehicle. When customers think the cost is high and want cheaper material you walk them round to the van and show them why its not a good idea

Love it! That is great advertising!

[Pane Talev]

quote Kevin Mahoney:

Is the file cmyk or rgb?

I was hoping this will solve the problem. File was RGB, changed to CMYK and I get the same grey-ish print.

After another hour of playing I’m close enough to the sample result. (adding Cyan and Magenta in the RIP mixer)

Thank you for the suggestions Kevin.

[Pane Talev]

quote Kevin Mahoney:

I would copy & delete the text, rasterise the background in illustrator, replace the text & save as an eps file

Thanks Kevin. Tried this just now. Still grey-ish. Will continue in the morning.

[Pane Talev]

No. Its a print file. I cut on a separate Summa.
I tried PDF, JPG, EPS.
All grey
Im having some success by adding cyan in the RIP mixer
Must be something to so with how this file is made / saved as…

---

Attachments:

[Pane Talev]

Same job. Two years later. Same problem.
The is the only file giving me problems.
Colour on screen is blue. Colour printed is grey. :bangshead:

---

Attachments:

[Pane Talev]

Honestly, I thought, ok its small recess, let’s try MD5.

Second day and I don’t see this lasting as it is popping out on all small recess.

[Pane Talev]

I always trim contra-vision 5mm from the edge of glass and seal with 10mm clear long lasting vinyl

---

Attachments:

[Pane Talev]

Good morning all and thank you for your comments so far. Perhaps I should have asked the question different.
In my workshop I only stock MD3, MD5 and Arlon SLX. Wrapping always with SLX.
I agree with you MD5 is not the vinyl to be used for this project.
Being my personal vehicle I did this job as a test and to spend my remaining roll of MD5A. T6 is pretty flat van an the application was smooth. At a moment where vinyl is lifting and starts to look bad-I can remove wrap that very same day when noticed.

I have only 2 sides printed. I will do other side today.
I’m not wrapping the bumpers.
I will wrap the back with Arlon SLX.

I will do a cut line as @David Stevenson suggests and hope that I will get 3 years from this wrap.

[Pane Talev]

quote Hugh Potter:

if it’s already pulling out then I guess that’s a fair indicator.

Metamark MDX would’ve done it, not a whole lot more than the MD5A,

H

Wanted to spend my last roll of MD5A-will not use MetaScape again. I prefer normal MD5.

[Pane Talev]

quote David Hammond:

I doubt it will stay in place.

Agreed David.
I’m sure a lot more will pop up. Just thinking of a way to fix it.

[Pane Talev]

quote Simon Worrall:

few raised bubbles.

Thanks Simon, yes thats what I meant.

---

Attachments:

[Pane Talev]

Love your work Kevin! It’s a different level!

[Pane Talev]

quote David Stevenson:

Has anyone any idea why Coral is so cheap on eBay? Seems a tenner can buy you v12 with a lifetime licence! Sounds suspiciously dodgy to me!

I bought a copy. It was blocked within a month.

[Pane Talev]

I also apply printed contavision. Then trim inside the glass edge 6-8mm. Then I apply 15mm strip of clear MD5 to seal the print. Did my car without the strip seal but is failing after two years and dust, snow, ice enters inside holes.

[Pane Talev]

post491259.html?hilit=print%20registration#p491259

[Pane Talev]

Second attempt was ok without a cut. But we didn’t drink beer this time. So more patience;)

The glass is making this part difficult as cannot pull down properly in the gap, otherwise very doable without cut.

[Pane Talev]

Parcel2go or parcel monkey. Insure each parcel at full amount. This is what I do now after recently DPD lost my parcel. Without insurance claiming is almost impossible.

[Pane Talev]

Thank you gents.

Second attempt tonight. It is printed Arlon SLX. Spoiler is part of the door so cannot be removed. If glass is removed will be an easy job but that is another matter.

Will post photos tonight.

[Pane Talev]

Has head or cleaning station being replaced recently?
Make sure head rests well on cleaning unit.
How is the nozzle check print?

[Pane Talev]

This is common problem and I had it personally since 2008 and didn’t do anything about it until recently.
I’ve been asking my self the same question for years and have been postponing the problem for years. Something similar to reading a manual when we buy a new SLR camera. Never enough time to read the manual.
After having my printer for 3 years last month I got a high profile job with a lot of proofing involved for a very famous client.
The colors that my printer was printing where not good.
A lot of magenta was going into my printing (apparently)
I run a Mutoh 1624 with a SAI rip.
I reserved few hours with friend who know about mixing colors and we did a lot of tests. I cannot do this, but when my friend sees a print, he knows what color is extra / or dominating in the print.
After 3 years my printing has improved quite a lot and it felt really good.
We did spend good 4-5 hours and 10m of vinyl writing down what we are doing. It was all worth it at the end.
Last night we did some black printing for couple of hours.
Inside the menu of SAI we played with the channels (50% less magenta, etc) and got a quite a good black. At least a better black then I was printing before. So it was worth it.
So in my opinion, there is no quick fix on this.
A lot of tests. And be aware that you might get your grey spot on – but your other colors can change!
Just my two pence on this subject. Will be nice to hear what others say.

[Pane Talev]

Thanks.

[Pane Talev]

Good projects Kevin,
A lot of good looking sign written vehicles are coming out of your workshop.
I like the Junk Monkeys.
Is the whole side digital print? And what media did you use here in particular?
Looking from photo, the whole side is a print and cut job?

[Pane Talev]

Interesting question. I’ve done floor graphics “Shoe shapes” stickers in the past and stuck them to pavement slabs outside my shop. They lasted for few months before council cleaners removed them. So my guess will be brick wall vinyl or floor vinyl. But not sure of durability.

[Pane Talev]

Thank you gentlemen! Point taken. Will pass.
Good day!

[Pane Talev]

quote Kevin Mahoney:

Hi Pane, I’ve used a thermal block window film in the past, do you know if the glass is laminated or plate?

Hi Kevin,

I don’t know what that means, sorry.

[Pane Talev]

quote Bernard Gallagher:

What’s everyone using now for there standard frost?? Used to love the bullet proof Multiflix frost was brilliant never got one in as happy with since. Agree the air release Metamark stuff is horrible stuff.

Metamark M7 Crystal Etch – Standard, NOT MetaScape version.

[Pane Talev]

quote Iain Pearson:

Its awful stuff, i would only ever use it out of sheer desperation, which in fact would be never.
bubble free frost is IMO is the worst variant of self adhesive vinyl there is :shocked:

quote Chris Windebank:

its embarrassing to use with a new client telling them it will go away in time. Not good enough. Have ripped it off and used the normal frost after and happy client.

Chris and Iain, I couldn’t agree more. I removed the MetaScape and installed normal frost. Super clean finish.

quote Neil Guppy:

Used it a few times. They do go. I still have the Mutoh you sold me btw. Still going strong :thumbsup:

Hi Neil. Good to hear that you are enjoying your Mutoh.

quote David McCarroll:

We use it week in week out, They will definitely go away. Sometimes can take up to 2 weeks depending if sun is hitting the glass they are on etc but don’t worry about it.

Neil and David. My experience with this product is not good. This product make me look bad so I will not use it again.
I will only use this MetaScape frost where using water application is not an option.

[Pane Talev]

Thanks Robert / Jason!

[Pane Talev]

In previous workshop I had the rolls sticking out. Looks messy and you dont see the colours.

I think like you have it – this is a space-saver.
I have it the same now.

Maybe you could of place the rolls even closer.
I know I could of done that by 20-30mm.

In my opinion this is best vinyl storage, looks good and is cheap to make.

---

Attachments:

[Pane Talev]

quote Chris Windebank:

Hi Pane,

I used a company in Portsmouth last time for the supply of vinyl, not sure but think Dacron rings a bell
profabrics.co.uk

worth giving these a call

Thank you Chris!

[Pane Talev]

Hi Chris. Just seen the 800. I need actual chrome recommendation.

Others members, please share your choice of chrome silver.

[Pane Talev]

Did some test cuts and this will work. Just need to locate these in the Europe. Otherwise must order from USA

[Pane Talev]

Can anyone please point me in the right direction where to buy (in the UK) self adhesive Insignia Adhesive Material in rolls?
Need to cut and apply to a existing sail.
Thanks.

[Pane Talev]

There is no substantial difference in my opinion. I will do what client wants and be on the safe side. He wants this, he approved this.

I can only see you going down this route is if you don’t own digital printer and you want to cut + apply this in house without outsourcing the job. In this case I will also vote for cut vinyl and doing the job in house.

[Pane Talev]

quote Chris Wilson:

Using Avery 800 this week.

Thank you Chris!

[Pane Talev]

I don’t know much about Roland printers, but if size is an issue, I will keep the big one and save the palaver of returning.

[Pane Talev]

Get help in my opinion. I attempted lifting my Mutoh 1624 (160kg) with another friend off the truck. We all most dropped it. Man with a van stopped and helped us. 4 people is safer, especially when you screw printer to stand.

[Pane Talev]

Funny enough.
Self-adhesive polyester sample arrived today. Internet name TAP-1530-13. Nice material but I will only use this for exhibition badges and similar.
Metamark M7 was sticking better than TAP-1530-13 on the rugby shirt.
3rd option – Arslan UltraTackMatt was sticking the best on this rugby shirt.
Because of price, client was happy to have the logo printed on M7 white for this 1 day event as it was holding enough for him.
A lot of palaver for nothing at the end. 😉

[Pane Talev]

Thank you all. Samples are in the post. Will update here as soon as I get the samples.

[Pane Talev]

Second time used. Very happy with Carbon Wrap Film Series 3M 1080

---

Attachments:

[Pane Talev]

Thanks Denise,

I will put this idea forward. I’m not sure if the light stitching will damage their rugby shirts, but that’s their decision.

[Pane Talev]

Thanks Jamie. According to Spandex MacSilky is not available 4-5 years now.

Any more ideas, anyone?

[Pane Talev]

I think is swings and roundabouts. It depends what you want to achieve and we you are in the business world.
If you are busy and your business is well established, you can do Monday-Friday 8-18:00.

If you are small business and want every call and email, answering an email on your phone after hours on Friday, can give you a full day work the following week.
My research shows that I get jobs quoted fast. Emails answered late have already gone to another company.

[Pane Talev]

My best friends
If I need to choose one – that will be the one on the right. Bodyguard Knife Teflon

---

Attachments:

[Pane Talev]

Today a Swiss sale rep with many years in the business told me that any brand cast cut vinyl will fail on a bonnet and certain weather / bonnet heat situations. He has a number of Oracal and 3M cast vinyl failing when the bonnet is hot, goes in the mountain – gets snow right away – freezes over night – and than car stays there for a week with day / night, freeze / defrost situations.

I officially no longer warranty bonnets and roofs.

As always, I like to hear from as much people as possible.

[Pane Talev]

If that car has as flat panels as the VW sharan – I will print and cut this with MD5 air release.

I don’t see a reason why Arlon SLX is a "no go". If the budget allows, this job will go very smooth with Arlon SLX.

(no cut line between the blue, white and black) All items on 1 printed / cut piece.

[Pane Talev]

I improved my greys by adjusting the magenta only at 50%. (SAI) Suddenly all colours became better with this adjustment

[Pane Talev]

lewishowes.co.uk
Know them and use them for more than 10 years. Impeccable quality and attention to details.
I was is their workshop for 2 days as an apprentice 3 years ago, learning certain things from them.
Great bunch.

lewishowes.co.uk

---

Attachments:

[Pane Talev]

What about taking your vinyl and try cutting on your friend cutter?
Temperature in you workshop?
Are rolls near a radiator?
Are rolls on direct sun?

[Pane Talev]

Hi Iain,

Navy M7 just arrived today.

I did a test after reading your post.

Cuts and weeds ok 80g knife pressure

Summa D140

Cutter offset 0.48 as per Edwards Mathias advice

[Pane Talev]

quote Simon Worrall:

Sure we get snow here in the south island, Pane.
I have never had a fail due to the material.
I used to use Oracal 751 all the time, which is excellent but now I use 3M exclusively (unless a colour is not available)
Although more expensive, customers have heard of 3M and I find if I offer them the choice they will always choose 3M, and happily pay the extra.
Nobody, except a signmaker knows of Metamark.
And M7 is a calendered vinyl, not a cast vinyl. I wouldnt use it on a car.

Thank you Simon.

[Pane Talev]

quote Simon Worrall:

Charge a bit more and use 3M 180mc. That is all I ever use now. It is air release and never lets you down..

If 3M 180mc works – I can see this happening. (I ordered a sample and will cut same artwork and apply on the roof and bonnet) Otherwise, Metamark is good all-rounder. Price, weeds, applies, removes very good.

I’m not planing to stop using Metamark M7. I ‘m just trying to cover myself at the warranty I offer. When I quote 3M prices, people run away. 3M 180cv2 cost 30 sterlings per meeter at 1220mm.

Hope we get heavy snowfall for 2 reasons. 1) To test vinyl and 2) to ski more 😉

Living / working in Dubai many years ago, I remember all vinyls had 1 year warranty. Some vans I do stay in places around 1500 meters. This is where my car and another car failed at around 1500 meters . Lost of snow, car staying on one place for a week. Worm temperatures during day, -10, -15 in the night.

Simon, do you get snow where you are? Have you registered a fail on bonnet or roof areas with 3M 180mc?
Is your recommendation based on personal experience – 3M 180mc and you get snow and gold weather?
Is your recommendation based on the 3M 180mc being expensive and therefore very good and "known to be the best" as a brand?

[Pane Talev]

quote Simon Worrall:

I would only use cast vinyl for the temperature extremes a car has to go through.

Every car I do here in Switzerland will thick that box hence me looking for a solution.

1) Winter lots of snow – plus vehicles go up in the mountains/ ski resorts / closer to the sun
2) Summer – the same

[Pane Talev]

quote Alex Crosbie:

Have you tried Oracal 751?
It cuts and weeds really well, the cost is a little more than M7 though.

Might be worth looking at the technical specification of any vinyl you’re looking to change to as I’m pretty sure the warranty period is on vertical applications, from memory horizontal applications are generally half the life length due to the extra exposure to UV.

Thank you Alex. Much appreciated. That is a very good point about horizontal and vertical applications.
I will do a test with Oracal 751 on the roof, together with some other recommendation that I get here on this thread.

[Pane Talev]

quote Martyn Heath:

Hi pane. Im a user of Avery 700 and live and work in one of the most harshest conditions in europe. My work has to withstand temps of -35c and 1m of snow on the ground. Over the 6 years of being here and doing vans etc ive only had a couple of issues which 9 times out of 10 are the back window. Which gets covered in snow and ice from the road.
I cant comment on the MD7 but polymeric has been fine for me over the years.

Morning Martin.

The M7 fails I have recorded so far are only on bonnets and roofs (cut vinyl on vertical areas)

No fails on horizontal areas like van panels and back windows.

As commented before in this thread by other member, Avery 700 fails on vertical areas in parts on the world where there is snow.

All these years I remove Metamark M7. When removing M7 vinyl is thick and removes clean. This make me think that I maybe solve my problem as Kevin says, with good cast.

[Pane Talev]

quote Kevin Mahoney:

I personally won’t use a polymeric for cut text anymore, for the difference in cost, Avery & Oracal cast wins for me for peace of mind. I haven’t used Metamark for years now & have had no real problems like this since switching.

Thanks Kevin,

What series do you recommend I use?

(Avery and Oracal)

[Pane Talev]

quote Alex Crosbie:

If the red above is fine then I would question what the difference is, is it the same colour and roll etc. If there’s no difference then there must be another factor.

White vinyl is ok.
Red vinyl has failed.

[Pane Talev]

quote Alex Crosbie:

Just trying to work out how the bonnet is done, is it just two layers of vinyl? White and red?

Is any of it air release?

1 layer cut vinyl in white
1 layer cut vinyl in red
Standard non-air release M7

[Pane Talev]

All Metamark M7 series . Never use M4.

[Pane Talev]

I had another Metamark M7 fail.
Area: The bonnet of my car.
Top 5-10mm from almost every letter in red vinyl was undone. (Circled) white vinyl is ok. Both vinyl ls are M7.
Side and back are ok.
Job was done nearly 3 years ago.
In my opinion, time (3 years) has nothing to do with this.
I went skiing at around 1600m. Car was parked there for 7 days.
First day snowed and car was covered with about 500mm snow.
Next 7 days the temperatures during the day where 3-8 Celsius and snow was melting.
But during the night -8 to -10. This is when the melting snow froze and did the damage.

Do you have any suggestions?
What series vinyl will hold on a bonnet and roof?
How long warranty you give to your clients?
Will be nice to hear from people who have workshop in cold places where snow is affecting vinyl.

---

Attachments:

[Pane Talev]

They have replaced bad batch vinyl rolls in the past for me. Give Metamark a call

[Pane Talev]

I’ve been having weeding issues on a particular roll M7 contrast white. All other M7 colours weed ok. Can this be a bad batch?
Ian, have you tested other M7 colour?

[Pane Talev]

With a pretty old smart knife at the moment, my Summa cuts with 80g (M7, MD3/MD5) and 160g laminated MD3/MD5 with their recommended laminates.

[Pane Talev]

1) Wash a t-shirt and leave it to dry out on the open in London.
2) Wash a t-shirt and leave it to dry out on the open in Dubai.
One will dry quicker.
As Joe says, lots of variables.
Drying prints in one workshop in 24h, doesn’t mean that this will be the case with another workshop.
You need to test this within your workshop/ equipment/ profiles

[Pane Talev]

When artwork is too small / thin I sometimes create an outside offset path with round corners. This makes artwork easier to cut and weed. At this size you cannot see that artwork has been thickened because it’s usually part of a millimetres

[Pane Talev]

Probably a bit over the top but this should solve it

Also I’ve used these rings (sorry about the bad drawing, I’m drawing on the phone

[Pane Talev]

http://www.shopkit.com
best for me for over 10 years.

[Pane Talev]

I’ve done many orders with Jason @ Screen 2 Print
07731 826 937

[Pane Talev]

When you printing a nozzle check print – do you get all lines printed? (Photo will help)

[Pane Talev]

Years ago for a restaurant in London I’ve done some cut Metatex from Metamark and than applied on site using and old iron. Letters lasted longer than the gazebo. In my case this was a large restaurant gazebo, dismantling for heat press in the office was not an option, hence I did this job with an iron on site with another person holding piece of wood / metal in the back.

[Pane Talev]

Thank you all for the advice.
Much appreciated.

[Pane Talev]

Can somebody please tell me what printing media is used for this?

Thanks in advance.

---

Attachments:

[Pane Talev]

I guess that will depend a lot on your profile. Make and print these 3 and see the difference

[Pane Talev]

Personally, everything that is long term I always use MD5 for print or MD7 for solid colour.

[Pane Talev]

Try ebay. Screenshot attached

[Pane Talev]

Good afternoon.
I would like to use this thread instead of making a new one as my question is similar.

I have Mutoh ValueJet 1625.
I have 1600 laminator.
I start to get a lot of inquiries for conference backdrop.

Can you give me some ideas please:
Conference Backdrop that client will put up himself.
Conference Backdrop that I will install for my client.

The only important thing here is that I want to make it from scratch or buy a some kind frame and then rent it out.

My hiccups are: I don’t have banner welder
I cannot do 1 piece of 2000 x 3000mm print without join.
What are my options? Any ideas are much appreciated as I’m struggling with inspiration.

[Pane Talev]

quote Chris Wool:

why reverse the file before cutting ?? i don’t, sorry just thought depends on the work flow.

i just stroke light pressure a new blade around the reg marks and remove the white vinyl only the idea of the masking tape is good, saves cutting to deep.

not a lot of help really but i started so i will finish.

enjoy

You are right Chris. No need to reverse file. This is done a the beginning when preparing the file as normal cut file. Print on clear in reverse, backed with white.

Basically this job should be approached as a normal print and cut job – and care should be taken to "clear" the OPOS markers for the machine to read them.

[Pane Talev]

I was not using the application tape method.
I simply backed with white inside the OPOS marks allowing enough for the OPOS eye to do its job.

On the second job today I even added extra rectangles left and right of the artwork. This helps me Illustrator to place the marks further apart from the artwork.
This allowed me to back with white without coming to close to OPOS marks / cut artwork.

I did this mainly because I cannot control the placement on the OPOS marks with AI and Corel Draw. They are placed automatically around artwork. Maybe there is a setting were this can be changed. I don’t know.

I will always do the option in the middle of the attached photo as I think it saves time. But then I’m more than happy to be told otherwise.

---

Attachments:

[Pane Talev]

I do see them on Ebay many times.

[Pane Talev]

Fantastic. Thank you gentlemen!

---

Attachments:

[Pane Talev]

Great advice! Thank you John / Hugh. Will do this for the first time tomorrow.

[Pane Talev]

Robert, thank you for the detailed explanation. Much appreciated. Will follow this procedure from now on.

Yesterday I did apply the same sticker on a piece of acrylic (i had sitting in my workshop temperature) Appliend the sticker and left it for few hours in the workshop, before I left the workshop I placed the sign out overnight in the snow (-5)

This morning I took it out of the snow, placed the acrylic inside the workshop (it was covered with ice) after defrosting, the sticker was spotless.

This thread is not about bashing Metamark. I’m simply looking for advice how to master application in cold temperatures.

Thank you all for your input.

[Pane Talev]

quote David Hammond:

3 days to do some van signage? :yikes:

That’s exactly how I reacted!

[Pane Talev]

Cheers David,

Metamark promised to send me peel test results of MD5 and MD5 Metascape.

They also told me in cold weather:

Bring client vehicle inside my workshop and leave it over night. (example: Monday)

Apply graphics next day (Tuesday)

Client collects vehicle on the next day. (Wednesday)

Allow the vinyl to bond 24h and preferred warm workshop temperature.

Will be nice to heat from as many people how they do vinyl work in the cold.

[Pane Talev]

Thank you gentlemen!

[Pane Talev]

Did you gentlemen laminated this easy dot vinyl?

[Pane Talev]

Thank you all for your fast reply and solution.

[Pane Talev]

quote David Hammond:

Perhaps an easy dot material, but I’m not 100% sure on glass, if condensation formed behind it, it may loose adhesion.

Thanks David.
I just googled easy dot.
Never heard of it.
This actually might work.

[Pane Talev]

quote Andrew O Brien:

Just to be clear you want to cover existing frosting with digital print and strip 6 days later?.

Thanks Andrew. Correct. My vinyl will be applied on the face of the frost vinyl. (On top of the frost)

There is no budget for removal – so client wants to be able to remove this easy by himself

[Pane Talev]

@Peter Johnson, you are approaching this from a very good angle. I never thought about it like you said it. Thank you.

[Pane Talev]

Morning all.

I would like to update on this.

I did not like the idea of having Mac and PC in the office because they didn’t talk properly, i was getting confused, as I don’t know much about computer stuff, and I sold the Imac. I did buy an equally expensive Acer Predator desktop.

For nearly a year now and work, print and cut from 1 PC.

1) Emails and design work is done in Corel Draw and Illustrator
2) Sai Rip running on the same PC.
3) Cutting Vinyl with plug in with Corel and Illustrator.
(all of the above on 1 PC – No other PC in the room.)

Not a single problem in 1 year with PC freezing, crashing, etc.

[Pane Talev]

Thank you Gents.

I tried this at home with canvas curtains but they curved a lot and locked really bad.

I’m guessing any material I use, needs to be thick? (Prints are 1500mm x 150mm)

[Pane Talev]

Thank you Colin,

Where do I buy these? Do you know the name of the product?

[Pane Talev]

The only reason why I use Metamark M7 is because weeds very nice. This is advise from someone who did miles of tiny cut gallery text in the last 15 years. Using Metamark with no complains from clients

[Pane Talev]

quote Robert Lambie:

Your customer is completely wrong!
The vinyl has done nothing but protect the paintwork, not damage it.
Purely through day to day use of the car, the paintwork is subjected to abrasion, U.V. and Chemical damage.
The only area isolated from all the above is the area you covered with the vinyl.
Once this vinyl has been removed, it exposes the protected paintwork alongside the weathered paintwork.
The key point here is, the area protected is the “undamaged paintwork”, the rest is the “damaged” paintwork.
There for your advice that the vinyl will not damage the paintwork is 100% fact because you now have the proof side by side!
You should now advise your customer to contact the motor manufacturer and complain their paintwork has deteriorated
and would like something done about it! [emoji6]

I think Chris / Robert just won your case!
Copy and paste to your client. [emoji6]

[Pane Talev]

On another note: just explain to client that almost every other car is signwriten, so removing vinyl and polishing (some colours are worst then others) is normal procedure before vehicle gets sold or returned to the leasing company.
If half human, he should compensate you a little for the buffing / polishing.

[Pane Talev]

Hi Rich.
Whatever you told the client – client will expect that.
I’m sure an hour or two of your time and t-cut will solve this matter.
I lease cars on 2 years. Nissan, VW’s, they all leave a mark (brand new pain where lettering was) little t-cut and paint work was as new and leasing company was happy.
I do tell client that lettering may be seen after few years when removed, but quick polish will solve the problem.

[Pane Talev]

I have a similar situation with Mutoh 1624 while printing on MD3 and MD5.
Preheheat plate was making the vinyl to rise up and touches the moving head. This creates smudging and print is ruined.
I solved by turning down the:
Preheater to 30ºC
Platen to 30ºC
Dryer to 50ºC
I hope this is somehow relevant to the solution you need.