[Ian Muir]

Am I missing something here, for sure wouldn’t be first time….surely an oven is just that i.e. an oven…. set it to temp you want and stick in your ready mugs… what is with special oven scenario peeps……

ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Thanks for the confirmation Chris….. as you originally stated ‘simples’… but it is Saturday in my defense…. off now to go play with some print and cuts… :lol1:

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

You got me thinking here Steve… if there is not a simple ticky box somewhere to ‘clone’ the outer rim of the bitmap (and I think there should be) then… hows about for my example of text with a pattern fill then write text (hairline, no fill), contour outline (2mm should be enough), apply fill to outline not text…. voila, you have a variable colour bleed around the cutable text…………………….. least I think you do :lol1:

to be even more accurate, if need be, you could fill text again with your pattern i.e. powerclip-fill container……

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Thanks Chris, very informative…. don’t know where I’d be without certain members of the forum working together like a well greasy (oops, should have been greased) machine…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

another option, often cheaper than re-painting is bonding/trapping a panel of ali composite to the facia, pre- flood coated if necessary.

ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

as been said… pinch rollers = rubber rollers on top… grit roller = metal engineered knurled thingy on bottom…

they need occasional care, if material ruins off after you put it in straight then they do need care

Pinch rollers either change or take off and lightly sand till rough…

Grit roller bungs up wif glue so take a spark plug brush (copper) to it or dig shit out with end of a scalpel…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Q: Did you hear about the dyslexic Satanist?
A: He sold his soul to Santa. 🙄 😳

[Ian Muir]

There see, a logical first step from Phil instead of a shot in the dark by meself… :lol1:

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi Craig

Maybe way off mark but I had similar problem with me mimaki.

Cure was simply to convert my cmyk image to RGB and then import.

As I say just one thought, I believe you need to split the fault to narrow it down i.e. is it a hardware or software problem first…

More knowledgeable people than me should resolve this for you in near future I hope.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi Liam

A lot of engineering grade will cut with a normal blade even at same pressure.

Some needs pressure increasing and I believe a 60 degree blade is best.

Bizarrely I used to use old blades saved for this and cutting of reflectives sharpened the old blade up again to re-use for cutting normal vinyl….

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi John

Don’t have an account with Avery either but order over phone occasionally….. Avery 500 only costs £2.60-70 per meter I recall… call it £3.00, that’s still only £30 + delivery…

Think someone at Robert Hornes got their figures mixed somewhere, I would call and try again.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi
A long winded way but one which works on most design software is

A) if image is a vector then select all and make outlines and fill black, then trace… you got an outline.

If image is a bitmap then similar but you got to use a bitmap editor before tracing.

Of course images will trace but tend to trace all internal outlines too so you can delete those you don’t want.

Of double course some design software does this auto at click of a mouse when set up.

Then you have outline send to plotter as a hairline or as a fill with no outline depends what output software wants… if you send as a fill with hairline then tendancy is often for plotter to cut twice…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

please, where is portfolio section?

ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi

Got one a month before yourself Colin.

Once you get used to it’s a doddle but I had ‘teething’ probs too.

Things I can think of :- the collars at either end of the lamination roll should be adjusted for proper drag, when you insert the collars then the tightening disc should be as loose as poss so you can then adjust until it runs, perhaps you have set one collar tighter than the other or the inner cardboard core is damaged maybe.

Pressure on rollers should be minimal otherwise it causes ripples (certainly did for me) , i.e. wind down till just biting, set red mark at centre position then tighten no more than first graduation on the pressure adjuster.

Hope my limited knowledge helps, once I sussed it the easymount is a cool bit of kit.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

After plenty research went for Nissan Navara double cab Liam , much the best pick up around especially post 2004 (D40 engine), earlier ones (D22) engines suspect to blowing up occasionally.

Got a 2005 with only 30K on it, non farmer or contractor (known owner), ended up it’s an Outlaw model with premium pack fitted from new, not really sure what that is but for sure it’s got leather and chrome everywhere + electric everythings…

Would post pic but at moment it’s just like any other smokey grey navara outlaw and don’t think I can put piccy on this site unless I pay to join in any case.

Sure goin to have fun signin it up anyways, should look the part when done I hope.

Ian
:lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Well I’ve seen somewhere Karl that there is a printable reflective so can’t see why there shouldn’t be a printable metallic out there I suppose…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Thanks for input…

Yes Chris, experimentation probably is the way forward… was tending towards thinking of a liquid laminate until Steves point of ‘why bother to laminate at all’, especially if it’s our vehicle and we can pull off and apply a new design in a year or so + printer is solvent so ink is more hardy….. and of course thanks to Phill, hadn’t thought about if putting the pick up through a laminator might invalidate the warranty (of both the vehicle and the laminator) ……. :lol1:

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Okay, perhaps my original post is causing some confusion because of the poor way I have tried to explain my intentions…. I shall elucidate…. ah that’s better…. :lol1:

Just bought a pick up with metallic paint, want to try something a little different from normal to advertise ourselves on it, don’t want the now ‘getting tired look’ of the full colour all singing-all dancing print/wrap.

So thought about using some metallic vinyls in subtle shades (e.g. oracal 900 series), printing on to them some background shadings/ motifs and then applying these to the pick up… laminating over all the vinyl for protection.

If I laminated each separate colour of the metalic vinyl and then applied to the pick up I get the feeling that the joins would end up looking like a jigsaw puzzle instead of a single unit that might result from laminating in one sheet over the whole applied design…

That’s the sort of thing I would appreciate feedback upon folks

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

It would solve the problem that I have Robbie.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

exavtly as Mike says, versions of corel graphics from 6 up to 10 can be had for a tenner and when you’re ready to upgrade it is cheaper than buying new of course.

The earlier versions are plenty good enough for basic design, later ones just have more bells and whistles to design better and faster….

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Applying to windows dry can be a problem if you’re not used to it.

Applying to windows in general is a problem at first cos the glass ‘follows ‘the surrounding temperatures more so then metal + when it’s wet and you apply then the water does not escape when squeegying like other substates.

I would suggest feeling your way with it, e.g. spray a little water on the glass (no soap in it) then wipe most of it off until it’s nearly dry, you can tell by trying to press a bit of vinyl onto it, if it bites a little then good, if not then dry it some more until it does bite (careful if you choose to use a heatgun)…

Not exact science but it works for me…. :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

quote Nicholas.Gormley:

Customer now changed his mind on the van he wants done, he wants the logo and web address bigger and wants the whole thing to be a bit catchier. Anyone any ideas?? Help is greatly appreciated.

Probably easier in the long run to just shoot the customer…….

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Olympic blue is close to cyan????… how does that work??? :lol1:

Eco :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Straight forward gloss red ali composite for me Liam…

The money you save on clear as opposed to red acrylic will be more than offset by time taken to flood coat the rear… and I don’t think you’ll end up with a gloss look anyways, depending on the glue of the vinyl over time

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Another one for the list… I was recommended Grafityps wrapping course by someone in the industry but not connected to grafityp at all.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

As Tim says Liam, stick with official suppliers… Grafityp are one.

You need 0.9 for vehicles, 0.6 are for fridge magnets and Ebayer cheapskates… last 2 of 3 magnettic jobs were for customers who had bought cheap on Ebay and then found one of there mags had blown off while driving along…

As you imply, you have to buy 10 meters but some companies sell (more expensive) over the counter by the meter, Sidney Beaumont in Leeds used to be one I recall.

Lucky for me recently, moved on a lot of magnetics for some combine harvester advertising but unfortunately that sort of work doesn’t come along every day…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Just as an aside, reminds me of when I used to live in Greece; getting off the ferry after 24 hours I always made my way to a friends pretty posh restaurant and they had a similar black and white effect on the floor too, only in marble. It was a 5-10 min walk and I never felt strange until I entered the restaurant, then it was immediately like I was drunk again (partially true after 24 hours around the bar area on the ferry), I always staggered about crashing into things much to the amusement, anger, worriedness of any guests and diners.
Could sit looking at the ceiling for 1/2 hour then felt better until I needed the loo then I had to go down some very wide stairs with same design on the steps, back to square one immediately, had to hold on to side rail with both hands as I went dowwn and up again….. very strange…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Me too likee v much… well done

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Thanks guys, I did in end convert my drawings to bitmap (have x4 so one click) but it’s a bit of a pain to then have vectors and bitmaps to save all over the place.

Could be that it’s a bit confused with bitmaps (bevels) on top of vectors also I printed the background trucks out to show finished designs in place but the files were only about 10 meg each.

CMYK Chris, black is there.. maybe you noticed the offer of free toners which strangely are only for CMY and not black.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Answer as usual – oil

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Think you’re missing one Phill

Maybe fourth choice should be:-

It’s more complicated than that – for gods sake don’t let the politicans decide.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Cheers Chris will take a look at it…

‘the better way will be your new solvent inkjet ‘

Have been advised to go for 2 x CMYK set up instead of CMYK – LC – LM – White.
This because starting out from a standing start with printing, the company I am purchasing from believes I might not initially have much call for white (or indeed any other colour :lol1:) and therefore there would be a risk of having inks run out of date with the associated costs if that should happen.

Switch over to white is around £600 I understand so could go for it in the future when printer is more gainfully employed.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Thank you Chris, thought it was a blind alley idea but worth asking perhaps…

Ian 😀

[Ian Muir]

As Alan and Andy mention, numbergen free here http://www.unleash.com/jeffh/numbering/ + videos to watch also.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

I would expect, having donew many of these, that the customer would not be changing prices daily, so vinyl onto composite, would be no hardship to remove individual vinyl numbers and replace occasionally…. either leave customer a strip of numbers or have customer call you when a change is needed…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

‘I’m usually busy laying a sign’…

I believe each to their own…..Whatever floats your boat sir, you obviously have a great love of signs…..me, more traditional, boring if you like, prefer nice women…. :lol1:

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Yes Ash… that’s about it… just pieces of sticky plastic really….. you know like you get in kindergardens to play wif…

As to which one to use, I’m afraid everyone seems to have their own favourites so difficult to pick one out….

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

oops sorry, now you mention foamex

10mm would be sturdy enough, weak point is the hinges… how to fasten them on, glue and small nuts and bolts perhaps, piano hinge glued and screwed is another option, holes with keyring thingies I’ve seen…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

As Peter says, each job usually being unique there are no hard and fast rules for a small sign shop, larger shops tend to have help from sign pricing structures in their systems.

You need to make your own basic structure i.e. cost of materials (e.g.cost of print per sq foot/mtr either printed yourself or bought in + mark up).
You then have to have experience in gaging how long the job will take including running to and fro, communication, design time, manufacturing time, delivery…….. one mistake here can turn a profit into a loss for a small job.

In your case I don’t know if you are talking foamex boards or wood, if wood then cutting, sanding, priming, undercoating, glossing, trim etc all have a cost in both time and materials… I have that worked out by the square meter or running meter on an excel spreadsheet so know what my baseline is be it an A-board or traditional facia, then time is added and other factors.

So I have a quote with profit, I then see if I can increase my profit by streamlining my work, for example for your wooden boards then I would probably look at cutting and preparing 3 or 4 A-boards along with it, I use them quite frequently so to have some ready is an advantage do all the preparation for lots of things in one go, it’s amazing how much time is spent moving from one aspect of a job to another.

Hope that gives you an idea, mine might not be best methods but it works for me.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

oops, it should be 00-99 not 01-99 of course….

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

a difference in the toner? surely it’s just toner!????

Apparently not Hugh.. they had a big problem at TMT I believe of late cos toners were being made to be more ‘eco-friendly’, colours (especially yellows, were not remaining fast after washing cos all the acetyls or alkyds or sumthing had been taken out of toners…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

I think there is a macro that will do it in Corel… enter Alan from wings…. :lol1:

I used to print off 2000 labels a time in ascending numbers for a construction companies induction stickers on their hats… did it this way in Corel.

Set up a display of stickers 10 x 10 using move and duplicate tool (use whole numbers in mm or inches so you remember easy).

Centralised numbers 00-99 on this grid using same movement

Locked or put on an unalterable layer all this base stuff

Next just added ‘1’ at front of each number again duplicating across and down same as before.

Sounds complicated but only took less than a minute to get the new numbers up once arranged… as far as I can remember I got to silly figure like 86,000 before I sold the last business a while back…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

:welcome:

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Thanks guys, didn’t think of William Smith, use them occasionally anyways and they are fairly close to me….

Thanks again

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

That’s a very good idea Hugh…… with new equipment coming soon I expect I should be target mailing pretty heavily…. but if I don’t get round to it then of course you may have the dear old epson…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Thanks John, Colin I will be using rasterlink pro 4 as bundled, machine ordered thru Signmaster, of course will be thinking of many things to ask during the 2 days training..

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Actually I don’t think that’s strictly true… like burglar alarms in residential streets, thieves (dedicated and opportunists) tend to shy away from difficult entries and go for the softer targets…

Pal of mine makes security stuff and he does it in reverse to what has been mentioned, 1 inch square section steel with a 14mm stainless steel round rod inside to spin against a grinder or hacksaw…

My insurer stipulated 20mm round bar as minimum so recommend don’t go for 14 or 16mm.

Ian
:lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi

no idea but you could try converting to curves if it isn’t already, breaking it apart,try it, then combining or welding some of it again,.. not scientific reasoning but maybe fiddling with it like this will cure your problem .. I cut with a fill and no outline but I know many cut using hairlines instead as a cutting path.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Thinking again (dangerous for me, prob just as daft), when you take the pic the date and time stamp is not set to display, i.e. the pic is say a JPEG, you then tell camera to put date & time on it, overlaid on top with another file type.

Can you not just go back to original file in camera and download image without date & time stamp?

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Your probably right Steve, just thought that since you can access and alter all the different original settings on a raw file then perhaps the date stamp might be held in a separate alterable ‘box’ too.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Yes Jason, I believe it’s that sort of upgrade I am recalling…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Thanks for the responses, sorry to confuse but I don’t know the facts either.

As I was aware (and could be wrong) the upgrade was/is available for cadets and older versacamms, it included new inks, ink lines jets, updated versaworks (faster printing +) perhaps new mainboard etc etc… converting old model into a ‘new machine’ with 1 year warranty..

No idea why Roland made it available but wish it still was somewhere.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi

I think it should be possible if you took the pictures in ‘raw’ format as opposed to JPEG…. you probably didn’t though, but at least it’s a possibility…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Got told the same Steve, no drivers for 64 bit platforms as yet from mimaki, don’t know if there is a private fix for this other than using vista 64 clickable downgrade to 32 platform…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

oops that went wrong, use the rectangle (usually) of your sign blank to drag, right click to duplicate and read measurements from this.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

If the laptop used to do it then it should still do it, so something is slowing laptop down.

Try a registery clean perhaps (I use eusing reg cleaner, free to download)

Could be something silly like a lead or a dust blocked fan on the laptop, I put my laptops on a couple of blocks of wood to help circulation, sure speeds them up!

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Yes, will be fine indoors…. use matt perhaps..

A lot of people just use ordinary vinyl for banners in any case e.g. oracal 651, I don’t cos it can wrinkle in windy positions if the banner is not taught or when rolled up often.

However to match a corporate colour for a yearly exhibition I had to use ordinary as a 100mm stripe over a 10 meter banner.. it’s in a normally windy spot up for 10 days a year for last 10 years and the vinyl is just now showing signs of wrinkling bad enough to warrant replacing (printed this time I will)…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Thanks for that info Stuart and Phil… definitely food for thought.

Thanks again

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi Tim

just to put your mind at rest it does import as pdf into X4 (some of the shading is out a little though for some reason).

Sorry, don’t seem able to put an attachment her (or I’m not trying in correct way), but someone of more knowledge will pop along here soon I am sure.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

As Graeme says Jason…. lawyer/solicitor time, just to see what ballpark figure you’re looking at.. sure it’s cheaper for them as an out of court settlement, so what?

If they’ve used your pictures without your permission, to compete with you using your pictures as their own then they are in deep shite.

Perhaps the client list they claim to have is false too.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

google for ‘Aslan’, they do three thicknesses

ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi

If only a cold lam then would think there’s no dastardly electronics … so, as said could be power supply if it has one i.e. motor is not 240ac.

Then to the motor

Does it had an illuminated panel, does this light

Only other thing which is decidedly possible is safety switch/es connections or switches themselves.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Yes will do, looking to steer him towards a central theme for the design but each cab different in colour or pictorals.. should be fun and a good showcase for my new gear.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

That’s both the beauty and the scary part Jason, customer will give me a free hand to offer designs. Nothing on paper or PC yet as a design, am meeting him this morning.

I’ve got a month or so to build up this job, pretty good really cos my print & cut doesn’t arrive till 2nd week in August.. pretty steep learning curve ahead for me… :lol1:

Previously he had the cabs airbrushed at about £1500 – £2000 per unit so I imagine fades etc might well have come into it.

Will let everyone know how work progresses if I can work out how to post pics here, if indeed I can.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Good advice, thank you.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Aha… neglected to say Graeme that prior to putting on the varnish I applied stone sealer to the block, the varnish peeled off in one lump.

With the interior filler I am now thinking of putting in a little yellow (sand ) colouring but I expect I should be able to remove it from the pores with a wire brush or a quick blow over with the gritblaster…. or at least I hope so anyways… :lol1:

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Actually 4 coats of water based varnish and the mask stuck very well….. unfortunately 4 coats of water based varnish DID turn out to be a better sandblast resist than the stencil itself so no flippin joy there…. 🙁

Eureka moment at 4am this morning, shall now try either interior fine filler sanded and a coat of oil based primer or some easy sand car body filler and then apply stencil this to see if I can get a result……. :lol1:

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Same as Jill I’m afraid John, never ever used clear since cos in the wet it didn’t allow vinyl to stick to surface, no idea why… perhaps they’ve altered the formula now though, that was some years ago.

A small tip for anyone that doesn’t know… as well as masking tape keep a roll of duct tape in your kit, perfect for applying hinges instead of masking when it’s hoying it down, sticks in the wet no probs..

Ian

:lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Well so far so good, 4 coats of water based varnish (plumped for that in case PVA turned out to be a better sandblast resist than the stencil itself) and now stencil is attached nice to the smooth surface, just waiting for some new grit to arrive then give it a go.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Probably a dumb question, I am not so hot with web stuff, but how big is a webpage?
I mean if I design a bitmap on an A4 base and then export to a web page the design comes in more than twice as large as I want, leading me to assume that a webpage is less than A5… 🙄
As I said, am pretty thick and easily confused on web stuff…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

All the best with your venture Kev, hope it gives you pleasure.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

I think that’s the spirit of any red blooded man Harry.. when faced with that outlook! Like the reaction on the face of the guy on the right….

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi Michael

As you say heat is one of best things to remove the vinyl itself, there are proprietory vinyl removers but I’ve never needed to try these so can’t comment.
Removing the residue, depends on how ande when vinyl was put on in first place and what kind of vinyl… worst scenario that it was applied just after a respray in which case it could have sunk into paintwork but that is unlikely…
If it was applied to a factory painted job and not a respray in a potting shed then be brave and use a plastic scraper with cellulose thinners and clean off last bit with meths on a cloth, that’s quickest way I have found + it removes grime from the whole surface nicely…

A careful approach is with meths, white spirit annd soapy water one to soften it, one to roll it into balls and one to make it want to leave the surface.

Another product which seems to do everytning inc. cleaning engines is sillit bang oven cleaner…

good luck

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Very good idea Kev… especially, and I kid you not, the shop is directly joined onto the main county council offices.. :lol1:

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Ah, I see what you mean Kevin, thanks, of course you are right on that part…

Yes will still be 820 candelas/sqm but 1 meter squared showing as emitting light and not 4 meter squared… that’s the bit I don’t get about the council requirements, they just want size of sign and it seems potential output not the actual output in situ with lighting effectively 3/4 blacked out.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Thanks Gary & Dan

I use Amari for some stuff anyway, never give them a thought, will look into it.

Found Cherwells myself, Proframe, published trade price about £30 per 6 meter lengths in coloured, so there’s another for the list.

Thanks again

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi Kev

Doesn’t really matter if it’s been worked hard, a summa, even the basic one, is at the quality end of plotters.. much rather an old summa (or graphtec, roland, mimaki) than a new chinese import (unreliable, unpredictable and little support)… so providing price is right then buy it, should last years longer.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi Neil

Grafityp are certainly one supplier, both plastic and stainless, cheap and quick delivery…
In fact ordered and received some several weeks ago, didn’t realise one was damaged at the time of receiving but a phone call to them when I did notice resulted in a next day replacement, no questions asked (apart for a request for the damaged one back and a suggestion (quite rightly) that I should have inspected them before signing for the courier).

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

I think for your needs from what you say, you are looking for corporate/ car/bike logos, maybe boy racer stuff as well as other clipart then first stop might be to google ‘brands of the world’, filled with usually vector logos to download….. site is totally legitimate as far as I am aware but as has been said, not sure of legality of utilising them to sell on, although, as has also been said, many on Ebay are doing so…..

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Well then go for it Fred, best wishes.

You mention vinyl, I presume you have a plotter rather than a vinyl printer, therefore you need to get your head around a vector drawing programme like Coreldraw or Illustrator, that in itself should keep you occupied for several years, I’m still trying to find how to work it better (bitmap & vector) after over 20 years!

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi Fred, ……….. welcome.

Please don’t think I’m trying to be flippant but you do not mention if you have skills in graphic design.. it’s not as easy as taking something off a web page (which is unlikely to have a good enough resolution) and working on it to output to a printer or cutter and then expect it to sell on Ebay in enough quantities to make it worthwhile.

If you research the other sellers of this type of stuff on Ebay, look at their selling history, you will find that most move only 3 or 4 items a week for a fiver each or so, not a lot of profit for so much work.

As to copyright, then you are right to breach copyright or to purchase pirated software is looked down on and carries possible serious consequences…. Ebay has cleaned up it’s act a lot and you are unlikely to find yourself buying dodgy stuff nowadays.

Point is though most of the clipart has already been bought and used by Ebayers, much better to design your own unique stuff of quality designs and sell that, much more profit.

Hope that helps, I’m sure others on this illustrious site will have their positive suggestions….

Ian

:lol1:

[Ian Muir]

As John has just said, double up the circuits, in one of my rooms (no window), only 5 meter x 4 meter I have put 4 x 4ft single daylights on two circuits, walls and ceiling white….. plenty bright enough after 10 mins warming up (bright enough initially as well), still plenty light with only two running for most things.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Oh, I am assuming you have small/medium workshop …. there are other industrial light fittings that work for larger areas….

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi Scott

I would stick with the strip lights, maybe double them up and then fit daylight tubes in.

Halogens seem brighter but throw out an unnatural, although bright, light, you won’t see the true colours with normal halogens.
I believe you can get halogens closer to the daylight spectrum (6000+) but don’t know where from.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

see where you’re coming from but if illustrators anything like Corel then perhaps get a wacom tablet and design on that into Illy, once you get used to it then Illy will be better for this work and you can do much more than drawing a couple of lines or writing text.
Ian

[Ian Muir]

As John says Liam, Illustrator would be good for you to get to grips with as your main logo design software, by far the most logos would be designed with a basically vector programme such as illustrator rather than a mainly bitmap editor such as Photoshop.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi
Sounds like you’ll be losing on this one in hourly rate anyways but if it’s a ‘friend’ job why not try do it good and get more business for the future…
You could cut a steel rim in half also, should only take 10 mins or so with a decent stihl saw, then mount rim on facia (suitably so it doesn’t pull facia down), then apply tyre over that… just a thought sir…

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Then again I would copy both colours Paul, then weld one yellow and one burg together, remove fill from this weld and set a hairline outline for the knife but no outline (which there isn’t anyway) for either of the colours to be printed.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi Paul

Not sure what you mean, there are 2 colours so they need to be cut seperately and then applied over each other.

If you mean to avoid lines/ridges in final result then make a copy of both, weld the yellow and dark red together on one copy which you then cut red and then cut yellow text to fit on top….

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Offset path?………… is that the same as contour that has been in Corel for decades except the illustrator method doesn’t seem to have the versatility that contour in Corel has….. :lol1:

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

As Peter says, trace with ‘squared’ backing paper (oracal or mactac are two), then recreate in your drawing program with drawing tools (squares, nodes etc).

If you try take a photograph of traced area take it from as far away as possible so it does not distort (like about 10 meters) and then magnify and crop to size.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Oh, I did re-install AVG and it worked second time, could then stop it continually finding my ‘resident virus’ and knocking out my access to programs all the time.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Thanks Joseph

Yes it did not install correctly, trying to open through programs or with that little button brought up an error message.

Most is working Ok-ish at moment, had to re-install a lot of stuff, signlab 5 is causing problems cause it’s an old disk and I’ve long since lost the serial number… might download roland cutstudio as temporary way to cut from Corel x4 reasonably.

Thanks again

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Didn’t mean supplier to cut Kev, but Owen, carefully on a nice clean table….

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

HI Owen
Maybe I’m missing something, if so apologies.. to cut 10 meters of 54" vinyl into 2 x 28" or 1 x 30" and 1 x 24" would only take 2 mins with a stanley knife and a 1 or 2 meter straight edge.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Cutters don’t take much power, a few hundred watts only, big printers take lots more, up to 2000 wattsfor general sign application ones.

If only a cutter then as said a geni + ups or leisure batteries and an invertor…. go for more expensive invertors that convert DC to sine wave as opposed to dc to square wave (which is fine for running drills and stuff but not so good for electronics….

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Grafityp also

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Thanks for that John, hadn’t considered the points you mentioned, very valid ones.

Strangely just had a customer call asking if I could run off some (not a lot) clear stickers with white on 🙄 , seemed like a job for an edge but he wants them to have a translucent quality, rather like stained glass. Ah well not from me will he get them…..

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi Dale
You don’t say if the wrap is a printed one or not, it’s the print that has lower life expectancy than cast vinyls used with wraps… with lamination and current solvent (even eco-solv) inks you’re likely to get double the 18 months at least for a print in this climate i.e. no sun…. 10 years + for a non print vinyl wrap.

Ian :lol1:

[Ian Muir]

Hi Paul
Also depends on how small the logos / letters need to be for a RC, a good quality plotter set up right will cut lettering 3-5mm high, any less and you need a tangentical (sp?) plotter, I doubt the craft robo is such a beast.

Ian :lol1: