[Steve Maple]

hello
its
sign tek uk
neon supplies

I can loan you a burner
buy a box of clear 15mm tubes from them and have a play

no one will give you any information – in the whole wide world!!

the book you need to buy is called
neon techniques

its 30 quid.

the very LEAST you can glean from the book is setting up a burner and then practising tube bending

no one will help you

[Steve Maple]

the halogens may melt those letters 1000 watts will.
all looks a bit low.

[Steve Maple]

hello
use button head screws
leave the protective film on the face until you have fitted them
IF there is no protective film on them, considering you are a novice, take extra care
in making sure you have the letters the correct way around before sticking the males on.
I.E. make sure the ‘c’s are the right way up and the ‘U’s are not back to front – plus all the others.
when you are pressing the letters into your drawing, make sure you are looking directly down on them.
note the locators are made from PVC and not acrylic
don’t use tensol to stick them as the you will see the tensol glue shrinkage through the face
before you start glueing them on…. tape down some 60/80 grit glass paper on the bench, count out
how many you need – at least 3 per letter, m’s and w’s want 4
sand the surface to be glued – there is always a bit of flash on them and the sanding helps the adheision
when about to glue, spin your thumb with some glass paper in the area you wish to glue to roughen the letter
try not to place them too close to the lower edge, as you don’t really want to see them

the most important this is to mark similar letters on the back 1-2-3 and on the template to correspond.

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@51.47202 … 312!8i6656

I didn’t do this but I laugh my tits off every time I pass……..

[Steve Maple]

just so you know …. if for example he starts rubbing his eyes….
oven cleaner is caustic soda.

‘oven pride’ , comes in a box, as a gel- with a big plastic bag that you put your trays and that in and let chooch.
i.e. a gel that’s easier to apply.

[Steve Maple]

have you got the room for it?

8 by 4 table for a monkey
with auto tool changer that you can flog on….
plus the electronics that can re-sell.

vacummnnnnnnnn mmmm

I bet it has servo motors too.

plus a 3kw spindle

rack and pinion

its a 2003 model,

[Steve Maple]

new out october this year 24v usb bobs – lets you run a servo pulse train at 24v from mach3

who bought that isel fb2 then……………………

[Steve Maple]

quote Chris Wool:dave i would ask steve to build you one 😀 if i thought i had the time i want one.
hello.
Its really quite simple my next move is to build a stand alone full atx tower pc, with all the latest giblets
i9 chip
32gb ram
4gb graphics
4tb hdd

note you can’t run a parralell port at 64 bit windows!!! 32bit only
and fit the cnc controller giblets inside the case
usb connection straight to board – 3 motor wires in
then utilise the pc’s case cooling and have extra fans direct to the drivers
.

corel
sheetcam
mach3

note, its because the drives are now 2 by 3 inch, and the breakout is small

the psu can come out of its case and sit inside the pc tower, get the heat out

[Steve Maple]

merchandise stock the isel 1604 ball nut
the bearings are split bosch items on the fb1 – not the fb2, thats why the gantry is slimmer, the later fb2 uses 1 piece rail bearings = anyways, I think as the fb1 is so old, finding the ‘ bosch Rexroth ‘ tychoway bearing might be an issue, as you know they are in two bits = old school 1985 too……..
although the fb2 I have is from 1988 – its still the current model…. the isel = expensive – best

• This reply was modified 3 years, 10 months ago by  .
• This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by  RobertLambie.

[Steve Maple]

ok.
you will regret having to use a parralell port old pc
you will regret not having a usb controller with seperate drivers
you will regret not having 8 wire bi polar parralell motors at 36 volts
you will regret not having 1605 precicion ground ballscrews isel bearings
you will regret not having isel anti backlash ball nuts
you will regret not having your end stop switches hidden in the motor covers
you will regret not having cy sheilded cabling
you will regret not having a thick t-slot bed
you will regret not having thk bearings and rails
you will regret not having plastic sheilds on the y axis

thast 10 reasons

[Steve Maple]

IF I were you………..
buy sell on the controller for £500

make a USB controller
use the machines motors and cables
buy new 36 volts 10 amp psu
3 toshiba tb6600 drives
buy a leafboy usn break out board for £109
buy the box
ferrite rings and iec chassis socket

this is exactly ewhat I have

run it 36 volts 2.5a
1/16 micro stepping
the screws are 16mm fat with a 5mm pitch, run mach3 at 760 steps per.

buy DOUBLES of all your elastics so you have a COMPLETE SPARE controller

wire it up YOURSELF so you know when it goes wrong you can SIMPLY FIX IT

P.s as you want a mere 1220 square machine, i dictates that you don’t want to do a full sheet anyway, so a smaller machine will do you.

IF you buy this isel I can tell you actzacery what to do, even as much as get the guy who made my motor mounts make you a pair, as I have the exact machine

the makita rt0700 mini router is the BEST for the money, plus you can buy them in the shops locally – plus get back £40 on the base – i did!!!

down load mach3

down load the sheetcam tng demo – corel to g-code software 2.5d
these are both £125 each – use you exisiting machine – usb!!!
export from your ORIGINAL drawing hpgl – pen 1 layer 1

EDIT you will need a z axis stuff is the shizzlickles, in so much as you WILL NOT FIND better cnc stuff
PLUS these things are MODULAR – in effect you can lengthen the X USING stock stuff

PLUS you could EVEN simply go the panasonic minas a4-a5 servo set upIF you found a used set, then it would be sweet

• This reply was modified 3 years, 10 months ago by  .
• This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by  RobertLambie.

[Steve Maple]

anyways if you have some pay-pal go on ebay.com and get

1. USB breakout board £33

2. -three of these Toshiba 6600 drivers £30

3. one of these 36v power supply £22

4. go to Maplins and buy a iec fused and switched chassis socket£4

5.electronics project box 300 by 200 by 100 £34

6. motor connectors buy 6 drills out the centres and use them as glands – looks tidy

7. 5 metres of 7 core 1.5mm core shielded cy cable

8. 3 NEMA 23 motors

9. Makita rt0700 router trimmer variable speed 700watts

build yourself a 3 axis, USB, 36v, 2.5a, Toshiba chipped, 1/16 step resolution, Sanyo Denki motored, controller for mach3

driver on off off – 1/16

note 7 core – 4 for motors 2 for limit switches there is an earth in there just to loop the field back

[Steve Maple]

so you can use a large format stylus pro head from a
4800 7800 9800 – non teflon
4880 7880 9880 – teflon
these won’t be locked, but a complete used machine, even a old 4800 is still going to be 3-400 pounds 4880’s/7880’s still get strong money
I have a 4450 4 colour that I put a 7880 teflon head in.

so tha ‘locked’ samall format dx5’s can be found in
r1800/r2400 – non teflon – are they actually locked?
r1900 r2000 r2880 teflon

so today I went a bought a non working r2400, basically the same as a r1800, with the non teflon water based dx5 head in for £30. these machines are old hat now so what is happening is the ink pads fill up and they don’t turn on, the two lights flash and you need to reset the ink pad – easy enough, I just did it and three cleans later I now have a perfect dx5 head for £30, I ‘assume’ loads of these machines are now heading for landfill with perfectly good heads in them.
I ‘assume’ these small format heads are locked to only print upto A3, so EVEN if you get a free printer and have to pay 25 quid for the card…………………

p.s. the bonus is – you can use these little machines as head washers!!!
the carts simply sit atop of the manifold ‘HOWEVER’ I THINK THE ORIENTATION OF THE MUTOH solvent HEAD MANIFOLD input nozzles differs than the stock ones – i.e. how you would fit a solvent manifold and utilise the stock suction / capping station is a pickler I am ontp – also you will need a waste eseptacle.

I bet the early heads go straight on no locking as it was a retrospective thing, lets hope trouble is the head in my mutoh is now good – j cloth and solvent cleaner under soaking for 30 mins a time cleared it, I left the head of the cap and it STUCK to me vinyl -tee hee.

thank you

[Steve Maple]

does it not work both usb AND network

[Steve Maple]

the r1900 heads 186000 gold/teflon are locked for length and width

it would appear that the r1800 158010 non teflons are too.

25 quid delivered, but it says for the teflon only and not the earlier ones.
hmmmmm

[Steve Maple]

thanks but got some close to me in west london
DPM greenford £6.80 each
thank you

it transpires that earlier firmware can be reset on the machine.

uk machines want version 1 cards

us and asia i think are versio0n 1.2

SO you can’t even buy them from the overseas as they may not work.

[Steve Maple]

so its nowt to do with dx5 for solvent printers,
merely model spewcifics for their own stuff so you cant fit a 17 inch wide printers head into a 4 footer ‘you know, what you would do if you had bought a large and small printer from them’
This begs the question ‘DID they start doing this with the mark 2 teflon dx5’s’?
because, they must have realised that it was going on, then combatted it in the later stuff ‘although its the same.

groovy I say, so simply stear clear of the later gold ones unless you buy the 70 buck chip whatsname.

edit, i see there are 3 generations of dx5 4000 4800 and 4880
I wonder if the 4800 is still open.

[Steve Maple]

is it as simple as ……

a head is a head, you are lead to beleive you need to input the code on the new head, when in fact you should simply keep the original for the machine

i.e. you have a r1900 printer, its given the code – limit travel to ‘x’ , set voltage to ‘x’ for pigment water
when in fact you shouldn’t change the code at all, and actually remove the sticker from the original machines head and transfer it to the new.

surely a head can only overheat and mess itself up, if it is receiving too much power and its overheating – granted if it is not receiving ink – flow for cooling it will burn up.

[Steve Maple]

great
do lefties always drop shadow to the left?
or does the sun rise in the east where the lefties live…….

[Steve Maple]

sldo didn’t detect media width

of the 5 large flat head cables is it the top one that carries power to
the cutter
the width ensor
the hi lo sensor.

non of the above work, even if the slider was at fault for heads – surely I would get the above?

is there a fuse for the head assembly on the main board

[Steve Maple]

hello, turned out to be the micro switch on the lower side – the leaver had snapped off but wa jammingfull empty

not the ic chip, as that was a resettable one, although I did swap trhe around first

go ink, but wasn’t pullling it black and cyan
some one had fitted the capping tops backwards, and the black suck pipe was off.
sprayed the whole head in black ink tring to pull it up.

adjusted the head height twenty times.

finally figured out how to get into maintenance mode, and I can’t see the hi-low head sensor, so I must have bad ribbons to the slider from the main board.

all heads have asterisks

[Steve Maple]

i get it, there is a micro switch in the cartridge holder, even if it reads the chip – if the switch isn’t closed, it cannot do anything

-so how do you get the cart bay out?

rdit
so its worst than that
there is a low micro 2 way switch that preesses on the bag tab – when the bag is empty, it shuts off the chip
-if full lets it go

there a micro switch in the front to physically detect the cartridge
then there is the ic chip with the information ink type colour and the switch offness.

so, if I have snapped of the lever on the tab switch, it is ready empty, and telling my permanent chip that its empty X

seems like it is flickering on the lcd, so maybe its jammed a bit

can i not cut ands splice the wire to always closed?
leave the third open/empty

[Steve Maple]

more questions
1. I have bought reset chips dual cmyk and ss2 ink – do I now have to use ss2 ink
2. yesterday I bought a complete epson 10600 for the three heads in it, I know from popping one of the original heads that if mixing water/ipa to first clean them and then solvent cleaner it sludges up – so how do I avoid this? – i did this backwards using avery surface cleaner not realising it was water based!!!!!!! -after solvent cleaning fluid.
3. cleaning carts – I have 8 empty little carts, they have been used with colours in and have chips on – do I need to blank off the chips slots smooth? when you clean with carts, does it not need a chip ?
4. do I refill these cleaning carts with 99 percent acetone or is that too hot?
5. can I switch the machine on with the chips reading full but with no ink in them to first ascertain if the electric work, or will it automatically want to start to pumping ink? what I don’t think I want to do is fill up my clean heads with ink only to find something else doesn’t work……

[Steve Maple]

quote Stafford Cox:

Hi Steve.

I will only sell my Epson heads (once I find them) to a waterbased or dye sub customer as I don’t recommend running them on solvent machines.

However, it can be done, and as long as your manifolds and gasket are not damaged, you can just use the ones from your faulty heads. Alternatively, Digiprint sell after market ones.

yes, i have just received three new solvent manifolds from didgi print, damn that was quick, 4 weeks from china, 3 minures it seems from belguim and only 3 ponds more.

so how much for those heads?

[Steve Maple]

http://www.digiprint-supplies.com/jv3-d … 06159.html

taller bracket holds the taller dampers into the heads?

http://www.digiprint-supplies.com/rolan … 35836.html
get these, big dampers? when they say big – does that relate to the physical size or the bore of the ink line?

p.s. thanks

oh and p.s. buying second hand heads….
crap shoot?

I’ll have to wait to nuy 3 @ £1500, then probably fry them on initial start-up!!!!

[Steve Maple]

hello stafford.
yes i have bought a 10600/10000 for the heads once.
erm, that ad would appear to state that its the 3 heads and the adaptor
500 bucks 300 quid.

I have just popped 3 of my heads trying to clean them.
what happened was I was busying away with the proper solvent cleaner, and thought i’d try some avery surface cleaner for a chuckle, it co-agulated because its water based – in the head and they went pop, nozzle plate came off one, one burst at the sides the other one may be alright but its scratched on the surface anyway
anyway, what price your epson thing.

p.s. do you mind being hounded with questions? as I only bought my machine on saturday, and its already in bits.

[Steve Maple]

will it go through a dx4?
is it a mild ink?

is it particle size important?

[Steve Maple]

the epson 7600 – 9600 have dx5 heads
but the 7800 6880 9800 9880 have a dx5 – but with the golden non stick surface
-I think that was throwing me!!

plus I can’t see the logic in calling the 4 channel head a dx3………..
they must do it on purpose to confuse you.

[Steve Maple]

Oh,
I have a 7880, that has light black and light-light black
so thats an 8 channel dx5 head

the 7890 is ten channel – well it has 5 capping doofers – covering two channels.
so, if the 7900 has green and orange, its the same printer, bar the blanking slots for the crtridges.
and the head has two empty banks if its 7890 no orange/green.
thats confusing
also a pain as I only ordered 4 dampers for the mutoh 1814

so they jumped from a dx4 -two channel head to a dx5 8 channel head
then the dx6 10 channel head

so what is a dx7?

[Steve Maple]

the cartridges are on route

oh, the reason is the lack of light black and light-light black solvent ink…….
plus ‘i think’ the 8 channel head running 4 colours ‘maybe’ 2 channels per colour.
= fast? more-over say an early 2 foot solvent with 2 dx4 heads and 4 channels at 180, the 8 channel dx6 gives me 2 lines of 360 – 720 squirts per colour?
its almost like ram = the numbers game?
or- if you like I want to print vector graphics more over pictures with skin-tone fades and the like?

would be handy I suppose if I could in fact make it a 7700 and only needed to swap out 4 lines, then affix 4 new dampers and 4 splitters.

[Steve Maple]

i saw on the conde sublimation you tube thing,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl … UUc9vbC4Fw
that you can dual cmyk

i realise i think that the 7700 simply takes 4 + 1 carts – this must have a splitter on the damper?

is it possible in the stock driver?

if you do have one , the website you want to visit is
my x900 . com

i plan on running it solvent, I do have a 7600 and a 7880, but I know the dx5 is a 6 cannel head, so the 8 channel dx6 would be more suited to dual cmky.

[Steve Maple]

I have doe this before.
1st you have to pre cut gear so size leaving a inch for the long joint overlap
plus half inch each end to trim – if you go a bit squiffy
2. you have to apply application tape to the mirror gear, as one it will stiffen it up and two, if you don’t you will scratch the grandmother out of the job.

3 after you have covered your pre cut panels, mark the centres at the end, don’t however strike a line right the way through or you will see it in the finished job

4. lay the tube flat on the floor, put a bubble on it to find the tops at ech end – mark the tops each end on the end.

5. flip the mirror over on the bench and tear out a 6 inch strip through the centre

6. all you need is a light dust of soapy along the top.

proceed to apply one half, then the other.

p.s. if you try and do it in one hit from one side, all the way around and you are a few degrees off, – by the time you get all the way around you might run off

doing each half, halfs the error, plus you minimise the risk of creasing the gear

[Steve Maple]

I am between Olympia and Earls court exhibition centres
I think you simply paid the ‘I’m desperate’ pricing structure.
sadly, If the exhibition had a shell-scheel, generic name board system, there would have been someone there with a plotter doing ‘show-cover’ – late arrivals.
should have asked at the organgrinder’s office

[Steve Maple]

modern – i.e. non connolised leather.
i.e. the stuff they call leather nowadays is ‘pu’ leather
– the hides are schythed real thin, the thickness is returned in polyuerethane – the leather grain is then embossed into that.

so realistically, the mordant required is one which works with any flexible plarstique.

[Steve Maple]

http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CFS_Ca … l_534.html

[Steve Maple]

you need to thin the paint out
paint the panels flat
—————————

you need to kick the habit of using fixings through the surface
-i.e. on the larger panel affixed the panel , countersink, then fit the trim and nailed it with lost heads, touched in the nails.

the other method, on the door panel, would have been to use a ‘hockey stick’ moulding – spell checker is wrong
-inch and a half, if the panel is 1/2 inch, screw a batten to the wall, and nail it up sideways.
-this also is the method you should use on the longer sign, also i bodes well if your next go wants a panel length of more than 8 feet and you have a central joint.
battening across the joint-fill sand, fit hockey stick all the way around
-it does actually help you in the long run, as when you come to install it you are fixing a 2 by 1 to the wall, then simply hanging the sign on that – it helps if you are on your own.

plus the job will last longer, as there will be no water ingression into the joint.

plus on the long one, you could have had the longer runs curved, the trim would have bent at least a few inches, then the central ampersand ‘could’ have been as big as it is….
😀

---

Attachments:

[Steve Maple]

phosphor paint
shine a uv lamp on them

did a job in a club basement -rolled the paint on white matt sticky – let dry, put through plotter – low low low tack, then applied
shine the uv on them, they glow

[Steve Maple]

and when doing an internal emulsion/latex wall
especially if it a temporary affair, and the flats are all pissed.
don’t forget to have a crown and skirting – header/footer piece of timber
as not only does it stop the stick coming away from the damp edges top and bottom, it crispens up the lines

[Steve Maple]

i reckon its
-opal panel with no cutting – ‘diffuser’

-fit opaque vinyl onto it with lettering cut out
bond clear cut 10mm letters acrylic to acrylic laminate tensol
-same drawing/file
easy layout – just drop them in

face the letters

otherwise you haven’t got a light source into the clear letter, so to refract out of the sides
-i remember doing some glass table tops with yellow light – twas years ago though

[Steve Maple]

glassfibre?

[Steve Maple]

first you have to divvy up each drop, so as to have equal width drops.
you have to factor into that some bleed at the first and last drop
bleed it the same amount top and bottom

there is no way on earth you are going to line up a 10 foot drop if its a photograph applying it dry
-you have to float the complete panel on wet.

the tip is to have 3 people fitting – 2 high each side, one on the bottom pulling the backing off.
spray up the side, but squeege of the to 5 inches with your rubber edged squeegee – this will prevent the thing sliding down, but still let you get it off.
there is some credence in the seam against the drive, but thats here nor there
-the reason why you go from right to left, is because if you are right handed
your naturally going to be more comfortable lining up the image looking to the right
i.e. when you kneel down, your right knee will want to touch the floor ratehr than the left – its a built in second nature deal .
plus of course when you rub your squeezer – if you are right handed you naturally go from right to left!!!
-simple -you don’t want to be putting the the blasted water back under the last drop silly.

also worth noting, when a trailer is laden and on its jockey wheel rather than the tractor. you may notice the whole thing bows quite a lot.
thanks

[Steve Maple]

hello there
-in your local b and q, they do a floor tile 300 by 600 – ish, 10mm thick
the split slate/stone effect has the technimacle name ‘rivened’
anyway, they almost look plastic like but the excellent thing is they are cheap nice!!!
i think they come in a 3 pack for £17

[Steve Maple]

all your one shots that say chrome on them…

chrome yellow etc etc
=heavy metal poisoning

they won’t let you put galvanised nails in your mouth anymore do they?

[Steve Maple]

you have to put the capsules into cold water first, let them soften, then add warmer water, as you will cook them, they never then dissolve properly.

rabbit skin glue is used when making gesso, as it dries hard.
-i.e. you can then burnish it up nice, with your dog toof, i.e. if it were a soft glue like pva it would wrinkle , plus of course you can’t then scrape carve it, and the rabbit glue is reversible too.

[Steve Maple]

roll on some screen ink through a mask
thin with acetone

[Steve Maple]

you have to first seal the timber with varnish-thinned
-as the natural sap/oil in the timber will throw the mask off
then you can use what you like

[Steve Maple]

select
gerber fastrack 650 in the software

-plug in the serial cable

-set the sheet width to 600

[Steve Maple]

if you don’t want corners to curl
-simply leave a 5mm border around the graphic
-run your scalpel around said border after applying low tack
-through the low tack
tell the chufftomer this is how it has to be
-then there is now extra on the materials

[Steve Maple]

fit a new nylon strip

OR turn the old one over, and hope it hasn’t been used before

[Steve Maple]

get an empty core
-and re roll it backwards onto it
if its 50metres, cut it in half!
25/25

you will put a bit of air between the roll, plus it won’t be so heavy

-turn the speed up!!!!
😀

[Steve Maple]

make sure you have the left hand gripper locked in
-it won’t know the page size otherwise

also, they sometimes get confused -so set the cutting head back to front right and ‘origin’ then ‘enter’

also if it stops half way it means the sheet length has been used
-i think its 25 metres top whack
-so if you are cutting something at 30
-do it in 2 bits

[Steve Maple]

you can get 3mm simopor – 8 by 4 foam pvc
from printall for 7ish quid a pop, if you buy 200 plus sheets

or you should all realise that you should group together and buy bulk
-as its all made elsewhere in the world

[Steve Maple]

measure the tread
ie the width and depth
-and supply it the total size

-the laminate for flooring is tough, but will scuff.

-if graphics are to be removed, then laminate with a lighter grade adheisive, as it is a biatch to not only get them up, but they will leave the glue
-plus if they are onto marble-yikes

-temporary floor graphics -always always always

[Steve Maple]

you should do it wet
-never over lap the app paper
or have a 2mm channel-masking tape-remove it before asquidging

-the reason, no – one want to do it wet, is because you have to go back
and remove the paper

tut-tut – lazy
–

-even if you are the greatest licker – sticker in the world

-the point being-you apply less pressure to it-enough to get the water out
and it dries flat and perfect

what is the point in risking ballsing it up dry.

???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

-plus you will always want to pull the paper off and rush it, stretch and tear it, ha bloody har

[Steve Maple]

it will always look pap

–

[Steve Maple]

rigid smooth wheel covers
-that lock around like a barrel lid

[Steve Maple]

scratch the heads with 120 grit silicacarbide
-wet and dry– get all the road grime off and away from the things

or just resort to a large hammer

[Steve Maple]

ist the 05 models have a different rar aerial-you cant remove it

-the upto 04 you can
-the rear middle eye brake light is removeable
torx tho t35

all the rain gutter trim just un clips

-these cars are coventry motors -ie they are shite-the clips break

-anyway the roof
-you have to stretch the sticky so much into the corners-ie at least 5 inches – so a straigth line -like that of a flag, would look crap

you WILL have to either completely wrap the roof in white – YOU WILL need 5 ft 1525mm sticky

pulling the corners in and hiding the trimming under the side plastic gutters and under the windsheild rubber

-or the BEST way of doing it, is to have it painted white

-then, it is a lickie stickie job

-get it painted, cos you may still balls the wrap

–

[Steve Maple]

and

u/v

don’t mix

[Steve Maple]

TELL THEM
-to use a different pen

a fibre tipped permanent marker

which can be removed with meths
🙄

[Steve Maple]

run the board through the machine, applying double sided sticky
then either throw the print down, and run it through
or rollit up and feed it through
-you CANNOT put ‘wet’ adheisive on foam board
-kappa -whatever as it will bow
-it will also bow if the pressure of the rollers is too high
-plus if it gets damp

-thats only if you cannot apply d/s stick ‘hot’ to the print
-then mount
-did you buy a metre wide laminator – what a waste of money
-5 feet or nothing – do it by hand

[Steve Maple]

http://www.pasma.co.uk/

[Steve Maple]

its not suitable for exterior use
-as the adheisive smells the same as scotch tape
-like pine apples – water based adheisive

[Steve Maple]

you had to outline any mac stuff
and save them as .ai
but less than version 5.5
in order to open them pc?

[Steve Maple]

there is a wheel base dimension
simply draw a thin box at this size and pull the
drawing up to it!
– then go check the wheel base!!!

[Steve Maple]

you allowed to use the mark black on yellow?
i always assumed it was white out of blue with
a certain amout of air?

[Steve Maple]

have you not been watching the crooks on tv’s house of horrors?
i’m not saying become criminal
simply charge at least 50 quid an hour
phone up your local ‘graphic designer’
and ask if they charge less than 200 pounds per!

[Steve Maple]

i paid 179 for a clutch at mr clutch wandsworth
it lasted 7 months
i took it back today
they changed it in an hour
i still had to give them a further 50 pounds
it was under guarantee

they use remanufactured parts
so guaging the material cost at 30 pounds
i reckon any uk mr clutch is whacking you at 150 per hour
so – 30 pounds an hour is just plainly unreasonable as an argument
and i’m not advocating you charge 150 per hour simply that
when you total up actual time taken to, for arguments sake do
a single colour transit, the customer being 10 miles away
travelling there and back twice is 4 hours
the initial consultation is 1 hour
design time should be at least 3 hours
cut weed stick 2 hours
total 10 hours at 50 pounds an hour
500 pounds – not including materials
trannys for even a couple of hundred is a joke.
charge for your time!

[Steve Maple]

you want a flat faced pop up banner
make on your self,
get a local metalworker to bend you up a inch lip in a metre by 400 wide
peice of steel, weld a peice of pipe in the middle to take either an alloy rod or a peice of dowel then get a bit of inch box a metre wide, drill a hole in the middle
and tessa tape the print to the 1 inch faces- put only enough tension in it that you need or it will bust
I made one for 14 pounds at i think it was 3feet by5.5
is the donny show indoor?

[Steve Maple]

pop up displays:
they come in a 400mm squareby a metre
wheelie bin affair
they aren’t panels they are prints, they have to be
in order for them to be rolled up and put in the wheelie bin
what you do is stick magnetic(flexible) strips to the pre – determined length prints they also have 2 tangs for location
any exhibition graphics firm will hire you one but insist you
use them for the printing

[Steve Maple]

the freeware only works with up to mac os9.1

[Steve Maple]

the others stevo – gone
real nick name nobby – gone
barney old nick name
suppose i could change it to steve2
can’t understand the mars thing .
mr sticker may know me from my college years 😮
never really done a cv type thing
but looking back it seems i tried to swerve the apple mac quark early
years and get in to another traditional hand craft
– how wrong i was eh? 😆

[Steve Maple]

did comparing a sign man to a spanner monkey come from?

[Steve Maple]

went from paste up – back in the day
to hammersmith and west london college
for the city and guilds – sign work
had a little shop in fulham for a year
went and done a hnd in architectural signwriting
heraldry and calligraphy at the reigate school of art
took a full time job at a london based exhibition firm
licking n sticking whilst the babies were young
now on my own doing a bit
currently trading as the sign works.
the name stolen out of signcraft-didn’t realise there were so many uk
firms with the same name!
might have to change it!!
any hoo actually painted a few shops in pimlico london
– when it was snowing recently.
last gilt lettered sign i did was about 4 years ago
done a few blasted timber signs
getting more into full colour on vans
done a few wraps
becoming a salesman for printed banners
mainly am subbed out to bigger firms at exorbidant daily rates
but mostly have to put up with the really crappy jobs
ie 12 big rig tractor trailer double sided – apply 10meter by 1 metre
prints to their laden soft sides-
so thats 24 10by1m prints to stick up in 3 hours!
yes it has been done – off a mobile tower – 1 guy pushing it along
me blading it down and another peeling the backing-and trying not to be run over with it!
any hoo again thats me!

spose that says i can draw n paint-pin line, gild and such

[Steve Maple]

got to be circa 1980 tho – cars
doubt very much if it was printed- airbrushed maybe
weird how the moire is only in that area?

[Steve Maple]

the local painter and decorator was the signman
probably all hand cut in hard wood with a coping saw
the bigger back ground panels are probaly 1 piece planks
thats if it was pre 1955-invention of ply
he obviousely knew what he was doing as its lasted so long
probably never been re-gilt either
so it was his shop and the best materials available to him
and the result is excellent
thats my opinion

[Steve Maple]

and his tattoo’s
for the resurgence of all cap tat
– spose at least you can peel off that laughable disgrace
vito’s – twin sliders too – nasty
impossible to do nicely

[Steve Maple]

i went to that show
i own a 1959 split pick up
alan flynn has one of those nova’s
weird