Checkers
Forum Replies Created
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There are a couple different manufacturers of Black reflective. As it’s been pointed out, most reflect white. However, Avery is one brand that reflects more of a gold color.
I normally wouldn’t use it or recommend it, because I’ve had failures with it. But sometimes is more appropriate.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
You know what they say about opinions, everyone has one and they all stink! 🙂
Here in my shop, I mainly use 1 PC, but I do have a second connected to the "network" as a back up. Internet access is routed through the router/firewall, plus, I use both software firewalls and anti-virus software on each PC.
Remember, attacks and infections are not just "net" related, so you also need to protect the computers from themselves and/or other users on the network. At my former employer, I couldn’t count the number of times we were saved by having every PC in the network protected with anti-virus software. We used and I would recommend http://www.sophos.com. Their system worked quite well on a network of 12 computers and 2 servers.
Sure it costs a fair amount of money, but how much would it cost you if you lost even 25% of your files and you had to reproduce them from scratch.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Jimmy,
I caught that too. Apparently, they’re a "must have" tool for vinyl wraps.
Not to say Rob was wrong, but the 200° (F) was still fresh in my mind from the 3M wrap class.
Also, would assume that different brands of materials require different temperatures. So, I would suggest that check with the manufacturer of the media you’re using.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Just an FYI…
All plastic has a memory, which means it wants to go back to it’s original shape when it’s stretched or distorted.
I was at a wrap class last week where 3M recommended raising the temperature of their Controltac vinyl to 200° Fahrenheit once its applied. This is to release its "memory" and permanently conform to the surface in which it is applied.
They also suggested using the laser thermometer to insure you’ve reached the proper temperature.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Well put Russ!
I just attended a 3M vehicle wrap seminar yesterday. The instructors said that the going rate for a wrap here in the states is about $14 sq. foot. I’ll let you do the math and conversions 🙂
This includes design, 3M solvent media and laminates, installation and the eventual removal. They came to this "average" by conducting an informal survey of the attendees of similar classes.Checkers
a.k.a Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya George,
How do you install digitally printed banners on billboards?
Around here, the common way is quickly becoming ratchet straps and conduit or rebar.
The banner is made with pole pockets and is slightly larger than necessary so it can "bleed" around the structure. On the back side, conduit is inserted into the pocket and the ratchet straps are used to tighten the banner to the structure.
If you want me to do a drawing, let out a yell.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hi Guys,
The heat tape I used was 110 volt and it warmed up 1/8" acrylic pretty quickly. I’d say within a 10 minutes of plugging it in, the tape was up to temperature. And, it only took a few minutes to heat up the material so could be formed. Thicker material would take significantly longer and require a lot of effort to get right.
I tried searching online for what looked similar to the tape I used, but I didn’t find anything. However, I did find some interesting info here…
http://www.tapplastics.com/info/video.php?
About 7 videos down, they’ll show you how to make your own plastic bender. The next video will show you how to bend plastic efficiently.Cheers,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Neil,
I’m not aware of any patch or filler that will not be obvious on acrylic.
As Andy suggested, you can try to glue the original chip back on using acrylic cement, but you have to be lucky make the repair look seamless.
The other option would be to radius the corners 🙂Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
If you’re only using it a few bends per month, or not looking for professional grade, you can make your own using heat tape (a flexible electric tape used to defrost frozen pipes) and some MDO.
Here’s a rough drawing…It may not be as efficient as the professional models, but it does work quite well.
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA
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Hiya Gert,
Are you using Corel’s generic CMYK and RGB color pallets when you assign color to a design? Or, are you using the PMS color pallets?
Either way, you’re going to have to bite the bullet and learn a lot about ICC profiling and how to use it correctly. It’s not difficult, but it can be confusing.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya SD,
A few years ago here in the USA, a lot of sign makers had issues with some of Avery’s vinyls. The problem was the material was shrinking and falling off the substrate on which it was applied within a very short period of time.
Although Avery claims the issue has been addressed and their producs have been modified since, their handling of the issue and subsequent claims left a bad taste in many mouths. I know of at least one person that is still waiting to settle their claim.
I’ll never say that one specific brand of vinyl is perfect. But I can recommend other brands, like 3M and Arlon, and I can comfortably state that these companies would handle the situation differently and in a more favorable manner for the sign maker.Checkers
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Hi again Colin,
I’m a little confused when you say that the adhesive will effect the final result. What would be your concern?
The reason for asking is because I’ve used a similar material with aqueous inkjet and the results were pleasing. The graphic was easily removed without issues.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian BornHarrisburg, PA USA
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Hiya Gary,
I’m sure you’ll get different opinions, but I like 3M’s Controltac with the appropriate laminate. Hopefully this link will work. If not, just search scotchprint.com
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/ca/fr00 … utput_htmlCheckers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Man, you want it all, don’t you 😀
Print the graphics in reverse on clear, adhesive backed, removable media and laminate to the clear acrylic.
I don’t recall if this was the exact stuff, but it may be worth investigating…
http://www.sihlusa.com/data_sheets/3648.pdfCheckers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Matt,
As it’s been suggested, good color calibration depends on your monitor. Unless you’re spending a $1K+ on a LCD, chances are you’re not going to get vey close.
Anyway, if you’re on a PC, have a CRT, and use Adboe products, run Adobe Gamma. It can be found in the control panel. It should have installed when you set up the software. Follow the instructions and you’ll get a lot closer.
The other thing you need to look at before you run the program is to check what the monitor Kelvin(? The proper term escapes me at the moment) is set at. Most monitors are set to standard television setting which is too bright. To get more accurate color, you need to bump it down to about 5000k.Good luck,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
My standard gross profit margin is 40%. It’s pretty much the standard around here when you’re dealing with the major wholesalers. But, you have to be careful with your math. If you just add 40% to your cost, you’re not getting the 40% profit you need to run a profitable business.
So, If the letters cost you $100, you need to divide the 100 by 0.60. This will give you you retail price of $166.67 and the $66.67 is your 40% gross profit. If you multiplied your cost by 40%, you’ll only end up with about a 25% gross profit.
Beyond that, you still need to charge for your time and add any additional material needed to complete the job.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Roy,
Vinyl on a gun stock won’t last long if your client uses it for anything other than show. I would definitely suggest paint.
If you need some ideas, check out this site…
http://www.indocilart.net/flash.html
and look under corporate & special projects
I’m sure you easterners will love it 🙄Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Go for it Peter!
It’s been a long time since I jumped. So, the rules probably have changed since then. But, from what I recall, you were required to perform two perfect static line jumps before you can pursue freefall.
Here’s a link to the US Parachute Association…
http://www.uspa.org/
A person who you may want to contact is Bob Stephens @ Skywatch Signs in Florida. He jumps on a regular basis and I’m sure he can steer you in the right direction. His website is http://www.skywatchsigns.com You can get his contact info there.Cheers,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
That’s good news Darren and thanks for the update.
How did you finally determine that it was the media?Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya People,
I use 2 tables for production. A small 30" x 8 ‘ for weeding and taping of vinyl and a 4′ x 8’ for production and fabrication.
I’ll use glass and prefer not to use anything else for weeding, graphic prep & trimming.
IMHO, the best (and cheapest) production table surface is an old acrylic sign face. They’ll last for years and your client would normally pay you to acquire them 🙂 Plus, you don’t have to worry about them breaking if you drop something on them. When they get nicked or grooved from cutting on them, you can flip them over or sand them down to get a smooth surface.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Here’s the ideal way…
http://www.plasticsmag.com/features.asp … Sep/Oct-01Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
A good business plan is worth it’s weight in gold. So, finding someone willing to share theirs is difficult at best.
A good idea generator would be bplans.com. Another would be SBA.gov, but I’m sure you have similar sites in the UK.
Numbers are useless if you make them up. The question you really need to ask yourself is how much does the business need to generate in order for you to earn a living and provide for your family. If you don’t know that answer, you’ll need to take a step back and reevaluate your personal needs and goals. Once you have them established, you can start to entertain starting up and running your own business.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Gary,
I ran an Encad 700 for several years. Hopefully, you won’t be as disappointed as I was. The printer prints well when everything works, but the reliability of the cartridges suck. I would have to replace, on average, one per week because of failure. The other disadvantage of the machine is that you have to print on coated media, which costs a lot when compared to the solvent media.
When you compare the longevity and durability of an aqueous inkjet print to solvent or thermal, you’re going to loose. Even with GO+ inks and UV laminate, you’ll be lucky if you get 3 years. A realistic lifespan is more like 6 months to a year of southern exposure before fading becomes obvious.
That being said, I do have a banner, printed with GO+ inks, that has been facing north for a couple of years and it still looks very good.
Like I said earlier, when the printer works, it works great. It’s ideal for interior graphics, like trade show booth or display printing.Checkers
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Hmmm.
When you tried the other rolls of media, were they a different product, or the same product with a different lot number? If it’s the same material with the same lot number, you should expect the same troubling results.
If that’s not the problem, the only other thing I could come up with is somewhere along the line something got switched or changed. It’s time to play detective and figure out what has changed since the last time you ran the media. Did you recently refill the ink stations? Were there any spills or accidents near the printer, ink or media? Perhaps, the manufacturer changed their manufacturing process or screwed up (which is not uncommon). Maybe the inks were accidentially switched in the shop or maybe the profiles were accidentialy changed within your design software.
Sorry I can’t be more helpful. So, good luck!Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Darren,
Without seeing the prints, I would guess that there’s a couple of things possibly going wrong.
First may be that you’re using the wrong profile for the media which is causing the printer to lay down too much ink. If this is the situation, the ink would puddle on the media while it’s coming out of the printer. The fix here would be to use the right profiles for your set up, starting with your design software.
The other issue could be defectivematerial or that you’re using incompatible media for your ink. What happens here is the print may look fine when it comes out of the printer, but the ink isn’t penetrating the surface of the media. So, when you hung the prints to dry, the ink just ran down the surface. Contact your media supplier for a solution there.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
My gut says its the paint, but it can be the tape or the cleaners you used too.
Some newer coatings have silicon mixed in with them that makes them more durable, flexible and easier to maintain, but a lot of adhesives won’t stick to them 🙁
Check with the painter to see what specific manufacturer and brand of paint wa used and contact the manufacturer to see what they recommend.
When doing work for schools, I always recommend consealed mechanical fasteners for sign installation. But, when the client wants to cheap out, I recommend a combination of silicon adhesive and VHB tape. Knocking on wood, I haven’t had a problem yet.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Although it’s a rare occurance, yes, vinyl applied to glass can cause it to crack. Check out this link from another board…
http://signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10034Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
I’ve seen Solvent and thermal prints start to look bad in 2 years or less. So, I advise my clients that these digital prints should last for 2 to 5 years, depending on the colors used, exposure, blah, blah, blah.
If they’re concerned about longevity, the only prints I’ll stand behind for any lenght of time are 3M Scotchprint electrostatic prints. 3M warrants them for up to 8 years. And from personal experience, I know they’ll last for 7 without showing any obvious signs of fading.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
A fellow signmaker once said "charge as much as you can while keeping a straight face". I tend to agree 🙂
My pricing is along the same lines as Jills, but I don’t transfer ownership of the design at those prices, and I wouldn’t hesitate to charge a lot more if I felt the job was worth it.
Here’s an interesting read with some good links…
http://www.letterhead.com/ubb-cgi/ultim … 39591.html?Checkers
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Hiya Chris,
The trick is not to use the tape to pick up the graphics. You should peel the liner from the the tape and vinyl. So, after you have the graphic weeded and taped, flip it over and peel the paper away.
P/Tear is probably Perfectear™ from http://www.Maintape.com. I’ve used their products in the past, but I wasn’t really impressed.
Another good tape that should be available to you is http://www.transferrite.com, however, I’m also a fan of and prefer to use R Tape’s conform series of application tapes with RLA. My favorite tape for most applications is 4075-RLA. But, I’m a little biased though. Their New Jersey, USA location was right up the road from me, so I was involved with the product evaluations while it was being developed 🙂
You can find out more about the different products at http://www.trape.comCheckers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
I know of quite a few people cutting right from Corel Draw to Roland plotters without any special software other than the print drivers that you an download from the Roland website.
Visit letterhead.com and search for the topic on their Bullboard. It’s been covered there many times. The two pro’s at it that I know go by Old Paint (Joe Perbish, not sure about spelling) and Applicator (Dave Grundy). It may be worth the call to talk to them too. Both are quite helpful and friendly if you don’t wake them up early 🙂Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Soapy water is strike one.
Beyond that, there are many other factors to consider and address 🙂
What brand/type of media and laminate are you using?
What about inks, OEM or aftermarket?
What is the substrate?
How are you preparing the surface of the substrate?
How are you applying the graphics, by hand?
When do the graphics start to curl and fail?
My gut feeling is that you’re dealing with a combination of issues. Here are just a few:
Too much ink on the media can cause it to distort and curl.
Fix: check your profiles to make sure they’re compatible with the media you’re using.
Wrong media and laminate combo.
Fix: Use compatible materials; Cast media & cast laminate; Calandered medial & calandered laminate.
Contaminates on surfaces.
Soap can contain lubricants that will affect adhesive performance. Don’t use it. Substrate surfaces can be contaminated with any number of things. Use appropriate cleaner to prep surface according to manufacturer’s specs.Good luck,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Michael,
Since you’re mentioning a rotary cutter, I would assume that you’re just looking for straight cuts?
The easiest way is to use stop blocks or jigs to accuately position the graphics on the cutter itself, then cut. With a little planning and measuring, just some thin strips of tape of heavy tape, taped to the bed of the trimmer should work fine.
If you want to get fancy and spend a lot more money, a cutter like the one mentioned here, http://www.paper-cutter.net/apc/t4850ep/index.html, will work for cutting multiple sheets, but it would be pretty much useless for small quantities or rolled goods.Checkers,
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
The $2500 is probably for a rights managed file. That normally means that there’s restricted use of the image and/or you’re buying the ownership of the file outright so no one else can use it.
That’s really the only thing you have to watch out for when you’re using clip art from any source. If an image, like the ones from Istockphoto, is royalty free, it means that there’s very few, if any, restrictions on how its used. Plus, there’s a good chance that someone else may end up with the same image in their design. It’s happened to one of my clients in the construction industry. Fortunately, the client wasn’t too upset. However, if he knew he could have paid for an "exclusive" image he would have happily coughed up the extra $$Checkers
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Hiya Neill,
I guess it would depend on how picky you are about resolution. I generally look for images that will be around 100 dpi at full size and a 60 megabyte file size is not uncommon for wide format printing. However, with Vehicle graphics, you can go with a lower resolution if you don’t mind a lower quality finished product.
From what I’ve quickly read at the web site, their large file size is 6.7" x 10" at 300 dpi, which means that it could easily be reproduced at 3 times that size. But, is a 20" x 30" image going to be large enough for you?
If you have Photoshop, Genuine Fractals or a similar program, you may be able to enlarge the file more. But it’s a hit or miss process that depends on the original file.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Jon,
I’ve had a lot of luck with Comstock. They supply files that have enough resolution to enlarge to display size and digitally reproduce. The website is http://www.comstock.com
They do sell individual images, but it’s sometimes better to buy the disk. You can normally buy 2 or 3 large files for the same price as the collection.
When dealing with indecisive clients, I’ll even direct them right to the site and let them make the purchase.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Let me see if I’m understanding this correctly. You went to deliver a couple of signs and the client asked you to install it and you said no problem.
Then, as you’re installing the sign, the company’s health & safety officer, that is paid by the company, said that you are operating in an unsafe manner and you must stop the work?
If this is so, I would have asked for the guys signature on the delivery receipt and handed him the signs and wished him a good day.
If the company called to complain, I would politiely explain exactly what happened and offer to travel back to the site to install the signs for an additional fee – which would include the additional cost of the proper scaffolding 🙂Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisubrg, PA USA -
It looks like you’re not using enough rapid tac and/or enough pressure. If you use application fluid, both surfaces need to be soaking wet with the fluid puddling on the substrate.
If that doesn’t work, I would suggest either using a laminator to apply the vinyl dry or painting to to achieve a smooth even finish. Painting would be my preferred method because there’s no chance of air bubbles getting trapped.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Micheal,
I know Dan Antonelli personally and have a lot of respect for him. His work is top notch and has a big following here in the USA. He’s also published a couple of books called "Logo Design for Small Business" and "Logo Design for Small Business 2".
THe only thing I would suggest is to buy his books first and giving another stab at designing your own logo before you commit to a design from him. He’s not cheap, but neither is good design 🙂Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Graeme,
I put the tape all the way around the perimeter, but I use 1" tape wide tape and only use a 1" hem.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Garrie,
I agree with Karl, Download the ProfitWatch software. The EstiMate program is great too 🙂
My retail graphic installation price can be as low as $1.15 sq. ft. for vinyl application on a clean, smooth and flat surface. But, it would have to be a fairly large job. Tapes, cleaners and rags are additional, normally $10-$25 per vehicle.
I charge $1.50 per mile (in one direction) to cover travel time and expenses. Tolls and parking are additional.
If the client supplies the graphics, I also charge $5.00 per 32 gallon bag for trash removal of the client supplied graphic waste.
Any job that takes me away from my shop has a $150 minimum charge.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Mike,
Stay away from the Roland PC thermal printers. They’re not very reliable and your cost of printing is very high when compared to Gerber or Matan printers.
Inkjet is great, but the initial investment is normally higher than thermal if you want to do it right. Not only do you need a printer, you should also invest in a laminator, rip software and a new computer to run the software and printer.
If leasing is an option for you, get something new. It will be less headaches for you in the long run.
Also check out this link…
https://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.p … 01cc886216Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Stay away from that machine Adam!
Encad/Kodak discontinued it for good reason. And, since it’s been discontinued, in the near future it will be difficult, if not impossible, to get materials, supplies and replacement parts for it.
I also recall reading a lot of horror stories about the machine. Besides being very slow, it wasn’t very reliable and the quality of the finished product was less than desireable.
Here’s a link to another site regarding a very similar discussion…
http://www.letterhead.com/ubb/ultimateb … 41725.htmlHavin’ fun,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Matthew,
Shane’s on the right track, but several things can cause the problems you’re having. Heat and humidity rank high on the list. The other issues could be the media/laminate, the laminator, or operator error.
Temperature and humidity changes can not only affect the adhesive, it can also affect the way the media and liner interact, plus it can affect your color consistency too. A carefully regulated, climate controlled environment normally eliminates these problems. A tightly wound roll of media can adsorb heat and moisture on the edge of the roll causing it to expand or contract at a different rate than the middle. This can create a “wave” or “belly” in the material that will cause it to not lie flat, and wrinkle when you’re laminating. If the media is not perfectly aligned when laminating, the slightest imperfections become visible and amplified. Also, if you’re printing graphics with a lot of ink coverage or the graphic is over saturated the same can happen too. Be sure to check your printer settings, but, normally, letting the graphic cure for 24 hours eliminates this issue.
Another issue I’ve run into is a bad roll of media. I’m not quite sure what causes it, but during the manufacturing process, something goes awry and no matter how hard you try the laminate would not work correctly. One time my supplier blamed it on the way that the media was wound and slit. So, I would assume that if the core upon which the media is wound is not within tolerance, it could cause issues too.
Check your laminator. Most laminators need to be adjusted or “tuned up” every few to several years depending on how often and how hard they’re used. Check to see if there are any unusual gaps in the rollers when they are making contact. You can use several strips of paper could be positioned across the rollers, then apply pressure. If you can pull the paper out in one area but not another, you may have flat spots on the rollers. Be sure to test this with the rollers in several different positions. Under normal circumstances, you should be able to lower the rollers until they barely make contact but you should notice a slight gap in the middle as long as there’s no pressure being applied.
Finally, operator error can be caused by slight formulation changes or differences in material lot numbers in the materials you’re using. Although the material may be within the manufacturers specs, the settings that worked on your last roll of material may not work on the new roll.Good luck,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Phil,
There’s room for both technologies in most shops, but judging by what you describe, the Edge may be a better purchase.
Although the print costs may be higher, it is generally a lower maintenance machine to operate. Also, if you’re already stocking 15" punched vinyl material, you won’t have to invest much more ££ for inventory.
Another thing to consider it to try ordering a roll of media and laminate for a wide format inkjet printer for a 200£ job 🙄Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Lorianne,
Jill is considered the Coro Queen here in the states, so I’d listen to her advice!
The only way I would consider doing it cheaper is if I was to screenprint them, but you’ll still have the same p.i.t.a. issues. Just cutting and cleaning the substrates alone will take at least an hour.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Maybe my conversions are a little off here, but attempting to do a job for about $45 US sounds a little cheap.
By time you meet with the client and determine what he wants, estimate a price, write up an invoice, collect payment, record the payment, get to the bank to deposit the payment, digitize the graphic, cut weed and tape the graphic, clean up the mess you made, call the client to let him know it’s ready, explain to the client about proper cleaning and installation techniques, and send him on his merry way, you’ve probably wasted a lot more than an hour. And then you have to add your material costs 🙂
I work from home and determined that my hourly rate needs to be about £50 to make money. If I had a storefront in a decent location, the rate would be about £58. My minimum order is about £50. However, I may waive this charge for existing clients.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Your portfolio is a tool that should be used to sell the client on your design talents. So, as Jill mentioned, if the client is serious about an order, he shouldn’t hesitate when you ask for a design fee. If the client balks, you don’t need him or his headaches.
And for the record, just about any PDF document can be easily hacked with or without a password. So, if you’re going to send a pdf proof, do like like I do, send it as a screen reolution JPG.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Are you using Windows XP?
If so, I had an issue with a removable hard drive and a copy of a back up a little while ago when I reformatted my PC.
The backed up/restored files were accessible, but I could not open or use them because the "ownership" of the computer changed. It was a simple fix though. Right mouse click on the files or folders and select properties. Then click on the security tab, and advanced settings button. From there, click on the owner tab and assume ownership of the files.Good luck,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
On a job like that , I probably would have tried to sell the client on 2 copies. If they went for it, great! If not, I would have printed 2 copies any way, just in case one goes south duing the finishing process.
Other than that. I’ve printed many samples, ID labels/bugs, personal stuff or even "art" just to make the showroom/production area look better.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Here’s a copy of the instructions that I give to a client when he wishes to install graphics that I made for him…
Notice the line below the installation graphics, it reads…
"Checkers Custom Signs provides these installation instructions as a courtesy to it’s clients. However, we can not, in any way, warranty the performance of the materials or the results of your installation".Cheers,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
From what I understand, the only difference between insulation board and HDU is the density. I don’t recall the volume that is measured, but it’s based on the weight of that volume. 15 lb and 18 lb are common for sign use, but if you look here…
http://www.precisionboard.com/Sign/prod … ducts.html
you’ll see that many other densities are available.
A newer manufacturer of the stuff is http://www.everwoodhdu.com/ but they don’t sell across the pond yet. I got samples from them a while back and it’s a much nicer and cleaner material to work with.
The one last thing you have to worry about with any HDU is reinforcing it after you go above a certain size. Shortly after the stuff came out, we picked up a lot of business for carved and blasted redwood signs because the larger HDU signs weren’t reinforced and they were snapping in half just from the wind.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Sharon,
I’ve used Vista on a few projects. The largest was about 4′ x 8′.
The one thing you have to be careful of is if you don’t secure the face with some sort of mechanical fastener, it will blow out when a good wind gust comes along. Guess how I know 🙁
As much as I like Vista, if I was given a choice I would look at something else for larger exterior applications. After our first project, Vista later recommended that you use fasteners on all exterior faces that are larger than, I beleive, the V400.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Martin,
These products should be available in your area…
http://www.lord.com/
I’ve seen some very strong bonds of unususal combinations of materials that they’ve glued together.
I’d say locate a local distributor and see what they would recommend.Cheers,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya AJ,
I offer no guarantee on any products I sell. However I do expect my permanent signs to last 7 to 10 years. If I feel there are issues with the durability of my signs within a reasonable time period, I will fix it at no charge to the client.
I’ve been in the business for 14 years and I still have a couple vinyl lettered MDO signs out in the field from the first year I started. Although they do show some wear and tear, I still think they’re acceptable. My former employer has hand painted signs that are 25+ years old that still look great, but that was when paint was still good and Simpson Signal MDO was readily available.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Darrell,
If the client is supplying unfinished aluminum, $600 isn’t out of line. Finishing raw aluminum can be a real pain. That’s why I use prefinished aluminum in my price.
Any savings by the client providing an unfinished substrate is lost when you figure the extra time it will take to properly prep and paint the substrate.Checkers
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A shoot from the hip price for a 3′ x 8′ x .080" prefinished aluminum sign with a white background and 2 color lettering should be $450 – $500, depending on the design. I estimated a half hour to cover design time in my price.
Add an additional $2.00+ sq. ft. for lamination, but I would avoid that part because the laminate probably won’t last as long as the vinyl.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Darrell,
Putting 6 year vinyl on aluminum and clear coating it is, imho, a waste of time and effort. If you want the sign to last, buy HP cast vinyl, like 3M or Arlon/Calon.
Painting is an option, but oil based sign paints have suffered a lot over the years because of EPA regulations. So, unless you’re set up with the equipment and want to paint hte sign with automotive eurathanes for durability, vinyl with be the most profitable.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Nick,
I use Edoc Printer Pro. It’s available here…
http://www.iteksoft.com/
It’s a virtual printer that is very easy to use and it creates a PDF document from any program that you can print from. When you’re ready to create a PDF, you select the virtual printer and "print" your document or design. The software creates a PDF file of whatever you’re printing. The cost is under $30.
I also looked at the program that Dawn linked to. Although I haven’t tried it, you can’t beat the price.Checkers
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Hiya Tim,
The closest I could find is an avery 9 yr. color called Autumn Orange. But it’s a closer match to pms 158.Good luck,
Checkers
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Call me crazy, but I’m coming up with about $3200 US, for 2 sides, 9′ x 12′.
You’re basically installing a full wrap, without the printing, plus vinyl graphics.
For a typical non-rush job, I would estimate about $10 sq. ft.. Then, add another 50% for the rush fee to cover the additional expenses, such as rush shipping fees for materials and overtime pay for you and your employees.Good luck,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Brian,
My favorite surface for weeding & prepping vinyl is glass. You can’t beat it.
A good surface for a production table that can take some serious abuse is acrylic. It’s easier on your blades and when it gets scratched up, you can sand it smoothe again. The next time you replace a lighted sign face, just save the face and cut it to the size you need. If you have to buy new, you can get away with 1/8" (3mm?) thick clear, but the thicker the better and I prefer white.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Ian,
I’m not familiar with your machine, but I recall reading that sandblast resist works quite well as a replacement for the roland cutting strip. If you can’t find the replacement part or get it right away, it may be a temporary fix.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Man, that’s going to be a p.i.t.a.! I would send the job back and tell them to print it right.
If they won’t reprint, the only thing I would recommend is to make some sort of wheeled dolley that can hold the media on the roll at the height that you need to make installation a little easier. Something like this…
Or, cut the graphics down to managable panels and hope that they line up with the seams of the trailer.Good luck,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA[/img] -
Hiya Chris,
I like the EZ up and I’ve recommended them to quite a few clients.
I’ve also used the Marquee party tent, that Lee pointed out, for camping. If you want convenience, go with the EZ up. You’re set up in about 15 minutes or less. The Marquee takes just under an hour to set up.
Whatever you end up with, stay away from tents requiring strings to hold them up. They’re a trip hazzard and everything can come crashing down when you least expect it.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA -
Hiya Bart,
From what I recall, nothing really sticks to mudflaps well. But, I did a search on another site I frequent and here’s a link to what they suggested…
http://www.letterhead.com/ubb-cgi/ultim … ml?#000000Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hey Russ,
The pic you posted looks like a carved sign. That requires carving chisels or a router, not a sand blasting. Carving is totally different process that requires totally different skills. On the plus side, the process is a lot quieter and cheaper to get into when compared to Henry’s set up 🙂
Here’s what a sandblasted finish would look like…
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Money, or the lack of is a great motivator. While you may not have a problem collecting it from your clients, it does become an issue when the bill collectors come looking for you 🙂
I find inspiration and motivation by looking at other sign shop websites or checking out the sign mags. knowing that I can and must do better than them gets me moving.Havin’ fun,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hey, I’m busy! I was just waiting for some more materials to arrive.
They’re here now, so I have to get back to work. 🙁
I like the idea of the dual boot MAC, but didn’t they try that before with the Power PC or something like that?
If you’re concerned about bringing a Mac into a PC network, don’t sweat it. A former co-worker was able to plug his Mac right into our network and was up and running in seconds.
The only issue I saw wat that the mac would leave some additional files lying around after the job was saved and closed in a windows environment. It was almost as if the file was saved twice, but the duplicate file was more like a shortcut for the Mac.Cheers,
Checkers
a.k.a Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA -
Hiya Steve,
Here’s a link to what I purchased at my last job…
http://www.letterhead.com/ubb-cgi/ultim … 33108.html
It would be the minimum I would recommend, although you can get the 3 gig processors and you should be able to upgrade them later.
I would strongly suggest a minimum of 2 smaller hard drives, around 40 to 80 gigs; One for your O.S. and the second for Adobe’s scratch disk. If you go much larger on the hard drive, you’ll start to loose performance because your computer has to look through the entire hard drive to find the files.
You should also consider either a second PC to act as a server or at least a 3rd and even a 4th large hard drive for archiving. These can be the 160+ gig hard drives. The 4 drive would be a mirror of the 3rd if it should crap out. I would also suggest a DVD burner for archiving the larger files; but most single designs should fit on a CD.
2 gigs of ram is the minimum, I would recommend. If you can afford more, do it. It’s relatively cheap right now.
Stay away from LCD’s or plasmas unless you have a few grand to plunk down on a good monitor. The last time I checked, Apples were the only good ones out there and were running around $2000. Your video card should be fine, but it may depend on the monitor you choose.You can go with a MAC and it might be worth it. The only draw back is that you’ll have to buy new MAC versions of all the software you want to use. And that can be cost prohibitive.
Let out a yell if you have questions. You know how to reach me 🙂
Checkers
aka Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA -
Hiya Dean,
From my experience, a carriage access failure normally means that the carriage bushings are shot and need to be replaced. From what I recall, they aren’t expensive, but they can be a p.i.t.a. to replace.
Here’s a link to the encad technical bulletin…
http://www.encad.com/Support/KB/export/083.pdfGood luck,
Checkers
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I would assume that this is a new business and their menu may change a lot within the first year of business. So, I would go with the cut vinyl which should make it more convenient for the client to update more than prices alone.
Although, it really depends on you, what you quoted and what money is left in the budget. If you’re tight on time and there’s no money left to do it right, then print them. 🙂Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
If they can’t afford, or they’re not willing to pay for your design, what makes you think that they can afford to get the job done?
Your Portfolio is your friend and a great sales tool. Let them browse it for ideas and when they’re ready to commit, get a deposit.
If you design without a deposit, you’re working for free. And if you don’t mind that, I can send you a couple of design requests 🙂Havin’ fun,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Steve,
I don’t recall the name, but I’m fairly confident that it’s a standard windows font. Not that it matters now .
When you’re ready to install it, I may volunteer to lend a hand 🙂Cheers,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA -
Hiya Brian,
I’m a big fan of retractable banner stands, they’re portable, lightweight and relatively inexpensive.
Maybe you can find a wholesale source that can produce your design and you can sell it at a profit?
This is what I’m talking about.
Something like this would sell for about $1000 US, including design, but there are options that are less expensive.Cheers,
Checkers
a.k.a Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Harry,
I disagree with the others, it sounds like a good price to me if it works well and you can get materials for it.
I used a very similar, if not the same exact machine at my last place of employment. The only issue I had was getting rolls 20″ x 10 yds. of material for it. I would order 24″ rolls and cut them down to 20″ using my radial arm saw. Blades, pens, etc. weren’t an issue here in the USA.
If it needs work, that’s a different story. To refurbish the machine, you’re looking at around $700 american plus shipping costs.Cheers,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Peter has the right idea. I leave the roll in the plastic liner it comes in and tape it tight, then cut away.
The only issue I faced was when I was using a radial arm saw and the blade couldn’t cut all the way through in one pass. If I wasn’t dead on on the second pass, the paterial would be a little rough. So, if you cut off one end, make sure you cut the end that you don’t use for alignment on the cutter/plotter.Cheers,
Checkers
Harrisburg, PA -
Your location really depends the business your pursuing and/or your marketing plan. Do you want retail consumers or business people? You need to focus on one or the other because trying to pursue both can cause you to loose focus and do more harm for your business than good.
As idgni pointed out, you don’t need a retail location or storefront if you’re pursuing business relationships, as long as you market yourself well in other ways. Word of mouth is good, but you also should use direct mail, email and websites, outdoor advertising and other forms of self promotion.
To keep my overhead low, I’m starting off as a home based business, with a plan to move to a new location within a few years. In the mean time, I am starting to market my business and tracking where my clients come from and how they found me. This information will tell me what is the best form of advertising for my business and help me decide on where and what type my new location will be.Cheers,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Aaron,
Here in the USA, we have the Environmental Protection Agency (E.P.A. on a federal level), Department of Environmental Protection (D.E.P., state level) and Occupational Safety and Health Administration (O.S.H.A., federal & state) plus, a miriad of county and local agencies to deal with. And they all have their own set of rules that I must abide by.
The main parties that I, as a small business business owner, have to deal with are EPA & DEP. Their biggest concern is the environmental impact my business has and how am I controlling and disposing of what they consider to be toxic wastes. Their other concern is knowing and being able to easily identify the chemicals I use. To manage that, I’m required by law to keep and carry material safety data sheets (M.S.D.S.) in the shop and with me for any chemicals I may bring on to a jobsite. Without these sheets, I can get into big trouble and I can face fines and imprisionment.
OSHA really doesn’t apply until your company reaches a certain size (number of employees) or unless you’re doing a specific type of work that is classified as hazardous.
I would assume that there are similar agencies that you would have to deal with. So it’s just a matter of tracking them down and asking the right questions and fixing the issues before they find you and make life miserable.Good luck,
Checkers
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Yep Steve, He’s blowing steam in a big way. Check out this link…
ttp://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/ProductMediaSpec.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&infoType=Overview&oid=-8834&category=Paper+%26+Media
If it doesn’t work, it basically says…
Adhesive Vinyl is the perfect choice for outdoor signage that requires adhesive backing. This durable, wet-strength media boasts a waterproof base that’s ideal for indoor or outdoor use. In fact, it can be used for outdoor displays for up to four months before fading occurs. For longer life, a top lamination layer to extend the life of the print is required. Best of all, its pressure sensitive backing makes it possible to remove and reposition signage within the first 24 hours of application.
Cheers,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
Hiya Harry,
Not a problem 🙂
I feel that, to properly restore them, they will need to be removed, brought into a controlled environment, blasted and refinished. Trying to do this on site would be costly, more headaches than they’re worth and the finish probably will be less than desireable.
Im guessing that the size is less than 18″ x 24″. My retail price for a plaque that size would be about $700 plus any design fees. As a guide, I normally figure refurbishing an existing plaque about 50% of my retail price or about $350. But it’s an estimate only; a quote would be given after I have inspected the signs.
Since they can deliver them to you, that eliminates the cost of removal and reinstallation.
So, if you’re set up with a blasting cabinet, it shouldn’t take more than a half our per plaque hour to strip. If there’s any pitting or rough spots that need to be repaired, add another hour or so. Then priming and repainting should take another 1.5 hours. Allowing for some “oops” and practice you shouldn’t have more than 4 hours into each plaque.
If you’re charging $50 an hour for your time, you should have $150 left over for materials and profit per sign. If they bring you all of the signs at once and everything was the same, colors, sizes, finishes, etc, I would discount the price by 5%.
If you have to outsource the blasting/cleaning just add a few more dollars to cover your time to deliver and pick up the signs from your blaster.Cheers,
Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA -
Hiya Harry,
How big are they and where are they located? Are there more or are there just the 2? Are they being delivered to the shop or do you have to pick them up? What about reinstalling them and associated hardware, who takes care of that?
I don’t live far from Duncannon, PA. Is there any relation?Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA -
Hiya Dave,
I’ve been using the Vista Sign System for a little more than a year now and I am pleased with their products. I think I can post their website address… http://www.vistasystem.com and they should be able to ship to you.
The only minor concern would be the size of the panels. Anything larger than 400 mm may need some reinforcement to hold the sign face in the retainer. Email me and I can send you a link to a website where you can see how I used them.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, Pa -
Hey Rob,
I’m not sure if you can get it, but I would recommend Sihl Pop up with a satin laminate. It’s awesome for what I would call a retractable bannerstand. The only issue I had is when I used different laminates. One manufacturers brand would work great and the graphics would stay flat for a long time. But another brand would curl within a few days.
The other thing you have to be cautious of is the combinded thickness of the media and laminate. If you get too thick of a combination, the banner will not retract back into the canister.Checkers
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An artist always signs his work 😀
I always called it a bug. It’s small enogh so it doesn’t interfere with the design, but it’s large enough to read.
I’ll put the company name on everything except when working as a subcontractor or it’s an ugly, client supplied design that I wouldn’t want to put my name on.Checkers
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I guess it would depend on the supplier. I normally buy my letters from a supplier who publishes retail prices in their catalog. I get a 40% discount off their retail. I would sell them at the retail price and add shipping costs too. Travel time, materials, installation, etc. would be additional too.
Now if it was something custom that is not in their book, I would mark up my costs so I could still get that 40%. But, in order to achieve the 40% margin, I would have to mark up the materials by dividing my costs by .6. to achieve that 40% margin.
As silly as it sounds, do the math. If my catalog price for some letters is $167, a 40% discount would be about $67 and the letters cost me about $100. However, If I bought something for $100 and only multiplied by .6 the retail would only be $160 and I’m out the $7.00.
If this doesn’t make sense, please say so, it’s not as easy to explain as you think :lol1:Checkers
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Thanks for the words of support Jill, but you abvoiously don’t know me that well 👿 <- (this is supposed to be an evil grin)
Seriously though. my name is Brian Born. I’m 39 years old, married, and I live in Harrisburg, PA USA. I’ve been a sign maker, production manager, project manager, store manager and a digitial printing specialst for about 14 years now. I started in this business after being laid off from the newspaper printing industry wheer I spent about 5 years as a compositor/paste-up artist.
Right now, I am unemployed and starting my own business. Barring any surprises, it will be called Checkers Custom Signs.
Even though I’m starting small and making myself available for hire to other sign and display companies, my goal is to to go big time and land the larger, corporate identity projects where many different locations are involved.
I would consider myself a specialist in just about anything vinyl and I like wide format graphic installations. But, I’ve done just about everything there is to do in the sign business at one time or another.
My dream is to build the company that can support my family so I can retire and finally learn to hand-letter.
I’m in the process of rebuilding my website, but you can still see samples of my work and read my cover letter and resume which I sent to potential employers.(mod-edit)
Cheers,
Checkers
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Wow, there’s a lot of familiar faces! And thanks for the warm welcome.
Now if I can fgure out the rules and not upset the moderators, I’ll be ok 😀 -
Hey Rod (and others),
It sounds like the Avery EZ apply solution won’t be available for much longer. So, be happy that you can even find it.
3M won a patent infringement suit against Avery and their EZ apply graphics. If you search 3M’s site for the press release dated December 22, 2005, you’ll be able to read about it. I’d post the link, but it’s way too long.Cheers,
Checkers