[Jon Miller]

Yes, was running ES3 with white and silver.

[Jon Miller]

I have been using the ATS inks for my Mimaki for a while now and have been impressed with their performance.

[Jon Miller]

Cheerz Martin, a slightly more descriptive explanation than mine 🙂

[Jon Miller]

Very thin steel rule at an angle along the edges will prevent any graphic lift.

[Jon Miller]

Thanks Chris but would like to sell complete at present.

Kind Regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

Thanks Dave. Yes, I suggested a printed graphic partial wrap but he wants to keep the black base with some vinyl graphics so metallic colours can be used.

How would the example red truck graphic have been applied, simply cut out on the plotter, offerred up to the truck and each piece applied individually, eyeing the registration (or using a couple reg crosses on each piece perhaps)

Can anyone else offer advice on applying vinyl single colour checkers to a gas tank using the existing base coat?

Kind Regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

Thanks for the input guys. :thumbsup:

[Jon Miller]

Cool, thanks David!

[Jon Miller]

Will do, thanks James.

[Jon Miller]

Sorry bud, I don’t know the software so cannot say. I guess give Flexi a shout to see which versions offer this feature.
Maybe it is in there but hidden in a menu or under another tool name.

[Jon Miller]

Thank you Fred 🙂

Hi Ewan, had a quick search and this popped up. http://www.thinksai.com/blog/2016/03/24 … n-feature/

[Jon Miller]

Thanks Fred, I thought it must have the option!
Quick test importing file from illustrator, creating the sequential edits and saving and opening in to illustrator again.. worked a treat, thank you!!

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Attachments:

[Jon Miller]

Will try indesign trial tomorrow at some point and see if it is present there. Will do some digging regarding the omega too as I would have thought that would surely have a similar feature.

[Jon Miller]

Wow, most kind David thank you.
It will havve to wait until I am back in the unit. Will also have a look at the other methods first before troubling you. 🙂 as is something I need to be able to do myself really. What if you are on holiday or something just when I need it :D..

[Jon Miller]

Rasterlink 5.

Forgot to mention I also have omega 5 for the edge which I would imagine should have something for that given the type of printer it is. No use for inkjet though unless created in there and exported as vector..
Something else added to tge growing list of things to look in to 🙂

[Jon Miller]

As ya do 😀

Not a problem sir 🙂

[Jon Miller]

Thanks George, I shall have a go when I get a chance and keep you updated.

Kind regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

Cool, thank you David. :thumbsup:

[Jon Miller]

Yeh, sometimes I lightly go over the regs marks (if laminated) with a grey scotchbrite pad to give a more even surface to read, which you could also try David.

[Jon Miller]

I know the feeling, have had an abundance of software/hardware glitches recently. :bangshead:

[Jon Miller]

If I am thinking of the same setting then mine are I believe on 70 for x and y. When I had some issues I raised it to 80 or 90 for each

[Jon Miller]

A couple times I had to raise the sensor level on my fc8600 in order to read the reg marks on some fluoro material.
What software are you using, cutting master can be temperamental so maybe reinstall it and make sure firmward/drivers are up to date to try to eliminate any software issues.

[Jon Miller]

Perhaps the sensor has some dust etc on it causing the erratic readings and needs cleaning?

[Jon Miller]

ugg….

thank you for the update.

[Jon Miller]

Still for sale? Wouldn’t mind a larger unit for flood coating boards etc.

[Jon Miller]

They have been the most responsive so far it seems.

[Jon Miller]

Thanks James, just having a quick peek at all the above. :thumbup2:

[Jon Miller]

That’s great, Dave, thank you. 🙂

[Jon Miller]

Thank you for all the input.

I have supplied this customer on numerous occasions with no issues using this media. They have applied it to a matt air release vinyl. I imagine they would have applied them separately rather than layering and applying both at once. I am awaiting a response regarding the specifics of their install/application.

Middle photo shows the bottom of the circle graphic Rob so yes, it has.

Maybe the van has been pressure washed and the slightly lower surface adhesion on the matt vinyl has caused edges to lift?

Although, my initial thought was tension issues when laminating looking at the way it has lifted..

[Jon Miller]

Thanks for the responses guys!
Yes, all that you have mentioned had crossed my mind but wanted to hear some input anyway.
Media was matching, MD3AB and MD3 lam.
As you say, seems to be an overly even lift around the circle suggesting tension issues..

[Jon Miller]

Thanks David.
Yes, it was air release.

Awaiting response from customer to try and gain more insight as to what happened so I can then resolve the issue one way or the other.

Some responses to bare in mind for future though so thanks guys.

[Jon Miller]

Thanks Simon, thanks Martin.

Yes, I am usually most prompt in responding but a combination of Bank Holiday, just going out the door, customer contacting me via text and then leaving my phone led to a delay. Not making excuses, just what happened 🙂
Responded same day albeit several hours laters. Contacting again just now to resolve the issue so will see what’s what..

They are a newish company and were fitting them for a client of their own.

Tape used was Metamark M2000 (at least I believe that is the product code)

[Jon Miller]

Thanks for the responses guys.

I just did some for a customer and they have said they had trouble with creasing.

"We installed the two shorter vinyls (1 cut & 1 not cut) easily with no issues.
The problem came when we where working with the taller two.
What seems to have happened is the transfer tape had pulled the vinyl away from the backing while it was rolled.
So when we rolled it flat before applying it appeared to have creased and long bubbles across the width of the transfer tape."

I applied the app tape without any wrinkles or creases, rolled up the etch with vinyl facing outwards using an old 3" core as a base to roll it.
Unsure how to respond. If there were a gap in between the backing and the etch then I don’t imagine there would have been an issue as backing would be removed when installing the graphics anyway?…
They are a new customer so don’t want to lose future custom but also don’t want to have to redo any graphics out of my pocket if they think it is my fault when it could well be installer error.

Any thoughts on this please? I haven’t responded to them just yet as have been out all day and also wanted to hear from you guys first.

Kind Regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

Not sure what the jet runtime error is but I had issues recently with the printer just randomly stopping during prints and receiving an error. Was rather disconcerting especially with longer prints. Tried various things and then updated the Rasterlink and it has been fine ever since (touch wood) 🙂

No need to deactivate, simply click start button, all programs and select the program update in the Mimaki RL folder. Make sure drivers are up to date whilst at it too.

Kind regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

Not sure if these are of use but you are welcome to try.

Kind regards,

Jon

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Attachments:

chelsea.cdr

[Jon Miller]

Running white / silver in the other two.

Test prints haven’t been that bad with the light cyan before that I can remember and haven’t had any media strikes since last decent test pattern. I have had a couple minor ones in the past but were some time ago and has been printing ok since then.
Slim chance of a dodgy ink cart perhaps? Although running the SM3 inks in the others ok and as mentioned, the issue with the black was apparent before making the switch from genuine inks.
Who knows, maybe the SM3 inks have contributed to the deterioration of the head or the head was on the way out anyway being 5 years old and so just a coincidence.
Maybe another part as you say..

The test pattern is slightly better after numerous cleans/washes but the blue lines in the grey prints are still present.

I will let it soak overnight and see. It is my only printer, besides the thermal, so needs fixing asap.
Please feel free to get in touch with me regarding an engineer in the event there isn’t a miraculous recovery!
o7969 zero 15 3ll

Kind regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

A little tricky to get a decent shot with the phone but have attached a couple.

Inks are Signmaster SM3.

Kind regards,

Jon

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Attachments:

[Jon Miller]

Was hoping you might chime in Stafford. Hope you are well.
Yes, the solution fills the cap top and remains.

[Jon Miller]

Have tried cleaning and soaking the nozzles but the light cyan seems to still be missing quite a few nozzles. Any suggestions as to what I can try to remedy this? It doesn’t appear I can just discharge and wash the light cyan on its own via the menu.

[Jon Miller]

I cannot provide a more technical solution but a couple things I could suggest would be to make sure your raster effects used to create the shadows etc are set to a high dpi. Or if you want a crisp shadow then use a duplicate of the text set behind it like the attached.

Kind regards,

Jon

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Attachments:

[Jon Miller]

The light cyan seems to be missing quite a lot of nozzles.

[Jon Miller]

Thanks Kevin. I’m just doing some more cleaning and will then print a test and see.
What can cause a deflection, simply clogged nozzles? Or can other factors cause it?

Kind regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

Ok, thanks buddy

[Jon Miller]

Hi Stafford,

Happy New Year to you.
I have received the new cap top. Do you have any installation advice before I fit it? (I haven’t examined it yet so do not know how simple or not it is or if there are certain ways to undo bits/tabs, but thought I would ask beforehand anyway seeing as you will have done many I imagine)

Kind regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

I figured that may be the case re. the diagram.

Thank you, not sure what your company is so please feel free to message it to me. (not sure if you can post it here on the open forum)

Hope you enjoy the festive season and thanks for your help!

Jon

[Jon Miller]

That’s great, thank you. i was trying to find a parts fiche but couldn’t see one. Out of interest, do you have a link to the whole printer so I can see where all the bits and pieces are
I think I will replace parts 1,2,9 & 10 then(guessing 9&10 are a spring of some sort so figure it can’t hurt to refresh those)

If you say that part 1 can be installed without needing any alignment or specialist work then I shall get them ordered in.
Are there any manual or instructions available on how to replace these? Unless straight forward – I haven’t examined on how they may come apart yet, only to see that they need changing 🙂

Many thanks

[Jon Miller]

Thanks for the prompt response Stafford. 🙂

Just going by what the engineers at a firm have said would normally be carried out in the service. Are there any obvious signs to look for to show that any of the dampers need replacing?
The printer is 5 years old now.

But yes, everything seems to be working ok but the capping sponge and the sponge next to it need replacing. Can you replace just the capping sponge or is it best to replace the whole cap top/sponge combo?

[Jon Miller]

Not a problem, James.
I know it is easy to get sidetracked when you have a lot on.
Thanks for your response and I shall drop you an email bud.

Thank you,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

Thank you Rob.
I did try to contact him via the UKSG section to receive their price list booklet etc but never had a response..

[Jon Miller]

Indeed, a great looking eye catching pub sign.

[Jon Miller]

Received my order today from hanolex and the difference in quality in the eyelets and dies compared to my previous ones are night n day! Had to keep double checking as I thought I had two washers stuck together 🙂
Pressing felt a lot easier and more uniform.

[Jon Miller]

Thanks guys.
Normally the other way round isn’t Rob 😀

Looks like an even spread on the poll so far.

I was using 13mm chrome ones but needing a new die, have just tried some from Hanolex so will see what they are like. I have noticed on the specs though, that their 11mm eyelets have a total diameter of just over 25mm. My previous 13mm ones had 24mm. So a little more ‘grab’ from the eyelet can surely only be a good thing..
Not received yet so will see how their quality compares to my previous ones.

[Jon Miller]

Glad I could help 🙂

Jon

[Jon Miller]

No problem, let me know if you get stuck and I can do a quick vid of it to explain

[Jon Miller]

That is because the various components of the image are clipped.
If you create a clear rectangle on the top/front or new layer to the size of the actual image area, over the whole image, then select everything and right click & ‘make clipping mask’ it will leave you with a clipped single image that you can rescale as needed.
If that makes any sense… 😀

[Jon Miller]

Have opened it and opens as a single layer for me. I have saved it as an ai file for you, see if that opens ok for you..

https://backup.filesanywhere.com/fs/v.a … 5f747c6b9a

[Jon Miller]

What size and format do you require them in?

[Jon Miller]

Hold ctrl and move the cursor in and out to change the amount of spiral and shift to spin it around.
I think..only had a brief play earlier.

[Jon Miller]

You’re welcome & Thank you! I hadn’t even known about the spiral tool in Illustrator until searching following your request. 🙂

[Jon Miller]

There is also a spiral tool in Illustrator, under the Text button.

[Jon Miller]

Not exactly sure what it is you require.. Something the same as the swirls in the pic or just similar?

A search for filigree, floursihes, scrolling vectors or illustrator brushes bring up various options.

Couple examples of many..

http://www.vecteezy.com/vector-art/8732 … r-elements

http://all-free-download.com/free-vecto … 57871.html

Jon

[Jon Miller]

Great, thank you Rob

[Jon Miller]

Thank you for your input Rob.

Yes, being new to signage I have already opted for the airrelease route. It isn’t a great deal more and would make things a lot easier for me.

Do you have any links to blade scrapers and adhesive removers youd recommend? I already have access to lots of isopropanol via my airbrushing/paints background.

Kind Regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

I think I saw you had one of the new seikos? They do fluorescent inks don’t they?
I have a CJV30 but the old one but the new model they now offer with an orange ink. http://www.mimakieurope.com/products/so … 50-series/

[Jon Miller]

Sensible response David, thank you.
I don’t calculate my prices with the aim of being the cheapest but do like to be competitive if possible. There’s always going to be someone cheaper but would rather pride my work on its quality and not price.
I thought I worked out a reasonable price but was still a good chunk cheaper than what the other company charged and so wanted to see what others would be charging. I would have to double check but I think I remember them saying it was about £220.

[Jon Miller]

Thanks David.

Yes, that would be ideal. I also have a printer but the orange would suck compared to an orange vinyl like is currently on the window. Unless you were speaking of just the bottom section.
Regarding printing it, I presume you would do the clear section the same size as the whole etch panel. Would look a bit rubbish otherwise..

[Jon Miller]

Indeed, I am pretty sure it states that in the instructions that inserting the stock inks before inserting specific sawgrass subli inks voids the warranty..

In any circumstance…hold tight 🙂

[Jon Miller]

True, Kevin.
I guess my post came across differently than intended. Being a larger company I expected their prices to be a little higher, but the figure I cam up with was a good chunk lower and hence wanted to comparison against some other people.
Pricing is just one area I would like to improve on, business and marketing etc is one of many others…
So much to learn and do, only one mind to facilitate it all at present 😀

[Jon Miller]

Indeed 🙂
Thank you for your input, Rob

[Jon Miller]

Apologies if I used the wrong term. Nope, no screen printing background.

The window is currently laid out similar to the attached, where the logo is the main block and the lower section (to be replaced) is the contact info etc so not sure making a feature out of it would be quite right.

I guess the removal of the etch, leaving the lettering in place, is a no go then?

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Attachments:

[Jon Miller]

Being my first set of carts for the printer and wanting to gauge how well they lasted I kept every print I did. I got fed up after a while stacking them up so binned them…if that is anything to go by 😀

[Jon Miller]

Same as Hugh, I have a Ricoh GXe7700n and the inks last surprisingly well! I don’t use the printer very often and it still works well which is good as they are not overly cheap for what they are.. (I also make sure it is left on so it can do its cleaning cycle when not in use)

[Jon Miller]

Oracal do some, Oralite 5200, Oracal 5400 and Oracal 5600.

Apologies, just noticed the ‘textile’ part of your post.

[Jon Miller]

Probably a MAC thing then Jean..

Sorry I couldn’t be of help this time.

[Jon Miller]

Could you perhaps just add a thin stroke to create a false bold and then unite/compound it?
Same with the thinner version, create a stroke and then subtract it to make it thinner.

Or, a quick search came up with these if they are the correct ones..

Jon

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Attachments:

GothamRoundedBold_21016.ttf

GothamRoundedLight_21020.ttf

[Jon Miller]

Not a big profit job but I would always like to know how to do something the best way possible and work backwards from there should it be required.
Thanks for the input Robert.

[Jon Miller]

Fair enough Rob, thanks for your input.
I had done a test and ended up cutting the green in one spot and overlapping it by a couple mil. Will try a butted join also as would look a little neater.

Thought about applying the green to a piece of black vinyl and then applying that so there wouldn’t be any need for the transfer paper.
Would there be any issues with applying 2 layers of vinyl at once? Bubbles etc? Should an air release vinyl be used for the bottom/black layer of vinyl?

Kind Regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

Apologies, did not even look at the date, was just checking recent/top posts. 😳

[Jon Miller]

What size / type of print? Just front print?

Kind Regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

That’s greatly appreciated Iain, thankyou 🙂

[Jon Miller]

Thanks Iain and thanks for the input.

Yes, I would have the joins running vertical on the actual window too but that was just a test as I have never printed on the stuff, or used the tiling function of the RIP software or even done any graphic installation bar an a-board done for a friend. So as mentioned, rather new to it 🙂

On a side note, although similar, if the client is not near you and you opt to outsource the fitting.. If the client provides the dimensions would you..

– cut panels to given spec
– add a little extra size and have the fitters apply/trim the graphic to size
– or?..

Kind Regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

Thanks for all the input guys.

Up to now I have only done decals and banners etc so all aspects of shop signs and vehicle wrapping is new to me..

I do happen to have some contravision though as I use it for airbrushing to create mesh textures so had a quick print on some earlier. First time having printed on on it had a quick go laying on my patio doors. Went for just an overlap as was a bit dubious about taking a scalpel to the overlap in case I scored the window..
As I have read others state, it does apply super easily though 🙂

While cutting the overlap probably looks better I didn’t think the overlap left there looked too unsightly. (although to the professionals out there it probably does 😀 )
That filament cutting tape looks very neat Rob, thanks. I have not seen/heard of it before.

I’m using eco solvent inks, any idea how long the ink on the backing paper will take to dry, best left to sit for 24-48hrs?

Kind Regards,

Jon

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Attachments:

[Jon Miller]

Cool, thanks Dave

[Jon Miller]

Thanks for your input Dave.
Just standard MD3 clear? Cool, I wondered about it as I use it for some decals but wasn’t sure if the adhesive would be visible on a window graphic.

(I really need to get on a fitting course and find a fitter also to outsource to as it pains me to turn down work because of not having the knowhow etc..)

Kind regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

Thanks for everyone chiming in.

Fingers crossed everything seems to be ok now so far. I have done a couple A4 sheets of small decals on my inkjet Mimaki (monomeric unlaminated) and also a few sets on the Edge, fluoro vinyl, laminated and they all cut out ok.

I was running an older version firmware so updated to the latest 2.4 along with new driver, then did a factory reset.
Apart from that I didn’t change change much, I think I switched sensor speed from IMS? to normal, had to adjust the axis offest by -0.1 in the y direction, but that is about it.

Tech dude said Cutting Master 3 has been a bit funny when communicating with the plotter and Illustrator etc.

It didn’t seem to like moving the tool about too much and setting new origins etc. So these last times I tried to keep faffing to a minimum… loaded the media, placed tool in the reg and sent data from CM3 and it went off and did its thing 🙂

Again, fingers crossed all stays well from now on.

Many thanks,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

The cut feature on my Mimaki CJV30 is spot on, so I would expect (or should I say demand…) that a 5k+ standalone cutter would be at least up to the same level.

[Jon Miller]

Hey Chris,

Nope, just on standard digital monomeric..

I thought I had it ok but it just seems random, some of them are ok and some are not. (these are small decals in an A4 layout) Tried different settings and different reg marks etc..

Edge, going to be good for doing what it does but is completely different and that and the software are going to be a steep learning curve unfortunately…

[Jon Miller]

Thanks Chris

[Jon Miller]

The cutter I have is the FC8600 which came with cutting master 3. Just noticed the ‘convert rectangle’ option which let me create reg marks inside of the graphic. Not yet tested but will give it a go later.

[Jon Miller]

Yup, not overly cheery outside here too 🙂

I guess inverting the reg marks would achieve the same thing as the ‘grey’ ones but I think I noticed in the manual that when using that style of reg mark, they need to be completely outside of the artwork..??
I may be wrong though, not familiar with the cutter yet as have only just got it and haven’t had a fancy separate cutter before 😀

[Jon Miller]

Cheerz Chris, yes, thought it a bit of a doozy.
I am in Stamford, Lincs. I am willing to travel though in order to find a solution 😀

Kind Regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

ok, thanks guys.

i have a mimaki and a graphtec but am looking to add a gerber edge so just wanted to see about maximizing print area 🙂

[Jon Miller]

I have tried to flatten transparency of the object with the outer glow but that doesn’t work. Also converting to cmyk then back to silver in Rasterlink.

I think the best way would be to convert the glow in to a halftone fade and then expand that, which does work but now I am uncertain as how to create it as a nice even halftone fade following around the object as opposed to a one directional halftone fade for the whole thing…

👿

[Jon Miller]

Thanks for chiming in peeps. Airbrushing today but will be printing tomorrow so will have a go and let you know… 😥
We shall see… 🙂

[Jon Miller]

I know in the rip you can select to lay the silver first then colour or vice versa but have tried various settings to no avail, always unexpected results.

When using the spot colours I get an error/warning

”When spot colors are used with transparency,changing them to process colors outside of illustrator can generate unexpected results”

There must be something I need to do in order to solve this issue but I am still a novice with printing and Illustrator. A certain way to save or convert or export/import or some setting that I know not of.. 🙁

Silver can be printed over as you can do custom metallic colours but as soon as there is an effect over it like outer glow or drop shadow it acts up.

Kind Regards,

Jon

[Jon Miller]

One more for your list to check out Martin, GFG Plastics. Not sure how they compare price wise to others but I have used them before and found them to be helpfull and the prices seemed ok.

[Jon Miller]

Just must have been caught when zooming through the menus.

Thanks once again! 😀

[Jon Miller]

Superstar!

No idea how the heck that happened but mark detect was off???

I use the different cut settings 1,2,3 for non lam, lam media etc and why it was working earlier in the day then not later.

What a relief and thank you.

There ya go Denise, strangely it was something relatively silly. Still no idea how it happened.. 😀

Jon

[Jon Miller]

Hmm..interesting Fabrice, thank you. I will go check now and report back 🙂

Jon

[Jon Miller]

I know, sometimes it can be something silly that has been overlooked like that but unfortunately not in this case, I wish it was… 🙁