-
Can I remove a window flood coat backing, leaving lettering?
Hello All,
Still doing lots of small decal stuff which is all well and good but would like to venture in to more signage type stuff and so..My accountant had their window done by someone when they first moved in but have since changed contact info so need it altering.
It is black lettering with a flood coat strip of etch vinyl behind it. (I have attached an example picture for reference.)For example, they want the details in the center strip changing. I haven’t used it before but I imagine etch/frosted vinyls vary with different brands.. So unless I can find out the brand that was used and get the same stuff in order to replace the center section only, can I remove all the etch backings leaving the letters in place and then re flood coat with new etch? Or will removing the old stuff remove the lettering also?
So I guess, is it a case of find out what brand the etch is so it matches or redo the whole graphic?
Sorry if that was a little long winded or the question itself is silly 😀
Any input appreciated.
Many thanks,Jon
Attachments:
-
13 Replies
-
"flood coat" screen printing background me thinks 😀
your correct , etch does differ from supplier to supplier , you might drop lucky and get a match , or how about making a "feature" out of the middle window and do something different ?
-
Apologies if I used the wrong term. Nope, no screen printing background.
The window is currently laid out similar to the attached, where the logo is the main block and the lower section (to be replaced) is the contact info etc so not sure making a feature out of it would be quite right.
I guess the removal of the etch, leaving the lettering in place, is a no go then?
Attachments:
-
its very unlikely, the etch will possibly leave a glue residue and trying to get that off and not damage the lettering (if it stays on) will be hard work .
strip it and redo it , just don’t have a cup of tea off your accountant as you do it , you know what their like he will charge you for it lol :lol1:
-
Indeed 🙂
Thank you for your input, Rob -
I would remove the lot, as we print in house, would reverse print on clear vinyl and back with etch vinyl.
Did a small office using this way earlier this week, quick and easy.
-
Thanks David.
Yes, that would be ideal. I also have a printer but the orange would suck compared to an orange vinyl like is currently on the window. Unless you were speaking of just the bottom section.
Regarding printing it, I presume you would do the clear section the same size as the whole etch panel. Would look a bit rubbish otherwise.. -
Our printer is surprisingly good on vibrant colours (although not tried orange) but I get what you mean.
What I would do is print each section, apply the frost on the laminator and then trim to the crop marks, I usually allow a few mm extra to trim it flush to seals on the window.
-
I think I saw you had one of the new seikos? They do fluorescent inks don’t they?
I have a CJV30 but the old one but the new model they now offer with an orange ink. http://www.mimakieurope.com/products/so … 50-series/ -
Yes the Seiko can be configured with florescent inks, however ours is just 6 colour with Lc & Lm. The ink is really dense which helps.
I’m sure I’ve read about some printers coming with RGB inks as well as CMYK to widen the gamut.
-
You wont get a match on the etch unless you know the exact brand.
Even then, You may get differences due to the time it’s been exposed to the sun etc.Removing the etc at the right angle and temperature may remove it without lifting the text. but there is likely to be adhesive left behind which will be time consuming to remove without a blade scraper and suitable chemical like tar & glue remover.
The time you take trying to save the customer some money, will have cost you much more.
Remove the lot. clean down with a blade scraper, adhesive remover and isopropanol and give them a fresh new window.
alter the design a little even, make it look new, fresh rather than just a details update and charge accordingly.
Use "their problem" as an excuse to upsell your work.I would apply cut vinyl graphics and flood coat the back with etch.
if you find flood coating difficult you can now get a bubble free adhesive system on etch.best of luck
-
Thank you for your input Rob.
Yes, being new to signage I have already opted for the airrelease route. It isn’t a great deal more and would make things a lot easier for me.
Do you have any links to blade scrapers and adhesive removers youd recommend? I already have access to lots of isopropanol via my airbrushing/paints background.
Kind Regards,
Jon
-
typical blade scraper and glue remover that i use is these…
you can get better quality blade scrappers but i do prefer the "Tar and Glue" remover. spelled that way because there are differences and not as strong.
soak the adhesive and leave for a few minutes, soak again and scrape off. once adhesive is off clean down last with isopropanol thorough before applying graphics because any residue from tar and glue will prohibit adhesion of the new graphics.
-
Great, thank you Rob
Log in to reply.
