[Stafford Cox]

I don’t tout for business on here. Up until a few moments ago I offered free advice to those that needed it. It’s a shame how one post can ruin that.

[Stafford Cox]

Can you power on holding the cleaning button on these? It’s been a while.

[Stafford Cox]

Daniel, I’m not into throwing mud around on a public forum and neither do I plan on doing, but as a right of reply and for all interested parties, I would like to point out that the last time UK Print & Promotions ordered ink from Atlantic was 10th March 2017. That’s over 2 years ago. Our inks, like every other manufacturers inks, have a shelf life of approximately 12 – 18 months. Could it be that you are either mixing another manufacturers ink with ours, or you are continuing to use our inks, anywhere up to 12 months after their expiration?

Stafford

[Stafford Cox]

Wednesday was definitely the best day for us. I guess I see it from a different angle to many…?

[Stafford Cox]

Certainly not the best Sign and Digital I’ve been to. Smaller overall and less attendees in my opinion. Hopefully the next few months will prove me wrong but I’m not sure it was worth the investment…

[Stafford Cox]

I’m there again, stand D10.

[Stafford Cox]

We’re being asked a lot about this. You can’t buy the original 25500 inks now apparently. We’re running some tests on one using our own ink and some 26500 parts in the background at the moment but it’s not something that will happen over night.

[Stafford Cox]

Changing profiles for each media is the correct way to do it. Back in the real world, most people find 1 or 2 profiles that work for their setup and environment and stick to them.

[Stafford Cox]

I’ve got a few customers running these machines. Avery MPI2000 seems to be a common one.

[Stafford Cox]

That’s the whole assembly you’re looking at. You can buy just the rollers for a fraction of the price. There are inner and outer ones, make sure you get them the right way round.

[Stafford Cox]

I’d start by replacing the pinch rollers and cutting strip. Both consumable items and user replaceable, then make sure the print and cut alignment is correct.

[Stafford Cox]

Obvious things first. Have you shaken the white cartridge vigorously to make sure the pigment and carrier haven’t separated? Is it definitely only white? Or is it only with heavy coverage?

[Stafford Cox]

I’m only really familiar with the later 8600 but it could be the cable that runs between the main board and head board. These can cause some really strange and erratic things to happen intermittently.

[Stafford Cox]

This is a familiar story unfortunately. I’m not sure what we have in stock at the minute as I’m working away doing an install but the UK distributor is Colourgen. They’ll be more expensive but it depends how desperate you are. 01628588755 for support, speak to Ben or Garry.

Good luck.

[Stafford Cox]

Hi Dave, good to see you on here again.

[Stafford Cox]

As Chris says, that K head needs sorting out or replacing before you’ll get decent prints. Even at high quality with v pass. Does the nozzle test improve or change at all with powerful cleans?

[Stafford Cox]

It’s not cheap, but it’s not thousands. The main cost is the capsule filters that need replacing but Hybrid make such an enormous markup on them. I think we can get them direct from the manufacturer for about a fifth of the price from memory.

[Stafford Cox]

It can be changed over to 150 apparently, Warren. We have a customer who has asked us to do it for him once he’s finished his campaign.

[Stafford Cox]

Hi Russel. This is something I’ve been asked about a lot lately by my customers so doing some digging myself. From what I hear from the other engineers, LUS-150 is the ink of choice. Many have LUS-120 because it’s a lot cheaper but I’m told that without the optional deioniser(?) it’s really not great. I can’t comment on the other types and don’t have any documentation but I’ll post again if I see or hear anything more.

Stafford

[Stafford Cox]

I had a demo on one of these late last year:
https://www.graphtecgb.co.uk/product/gr … g-plotter/

[Stafford Cox]

What sort of thing are you trying to cut?

[Stafford Cox]

It could just be a that it needs a bloody good clean. Have you cleaned the head manually?

[Stafford Cox]

Have you tried lowering the head height?

[Stafford Cox]

It’s probably just emptying the caps and pumps. Id imagine the heads aren’t in the capping position when it does its clicks every hour or so.

[Stafford Cox]

Mutoh recommend a new maintenance assy every 12 months. I think that’s a little excessive and 18-24 months would be fine.

[Stafford Cox]

It’s not particularly easy on the VJ’s as the cap, pump and wiper is an all in one ‘maintenance assy’. Either of your suggestions would work in theory but I personally would clamp the pipes between the cap and pump. It’s very awkward and you will likely struggle to get it back together if it comes apart.

More importantly, if you have one and a half nozzles missing, I wouldn’t worry too much. Particularly with the wave configuration of the Mutoh.

Have you replaced the maintenance assy any time in the year or so?

Stafford.

[Stafford Cox]

Try and keep the media warmer over night. It’s the sudden cold to hot that causes it.

[Stafford Cox]

Which model is it Steff?

[Stafford Cox]

quote Daniel Evans:

Could Cyan be down to the damper then?

Entirely possible. I think it needs somebody to have a look

[Stafford Cox]

quote Daniel Evans:

Vsi

Go to Sub Menu, Ink Control and Light Choke CL.

[Stafford Cox]

Remind me. Is your VS or VSi? VS has a manual choke valve and VSi has automatic.

[Stafford Cox]

Dan, do NOT get one of those flushing kits for your machine. Your VS has a DX7 head, not a DX4 as pictured. You won’t get that damper inside your printhead. Best thing for you to do on your printer is a choke clean (CL clean I think it’s called from memory). If that doesn’t fix it you’ll probably need a damper replacing next. Let me know if you want me to come and do that as I think you have a maintenance contract with us don’t you?

[Stafford Cox]

I’ve been reliably informed that the SP540 does have Ethernet but the SP300 doesn’t.

[Stafford Cox]

I think so. But it was also a more expensive machine. Bare in mind there is a an SPi and VPi too, which were later models and mostly identical to each other apart from the head config. Early SP is an SP300V or 540V and has a motorised capping station unlike the VP.

Confused? I was for years 🙂

[Stafford Cox]

I’m not aware of the OS version incompatibility but main difference is the SP runs 2 heads and the VP runs 4 heads. SP also runs USB and VP runs ethernet.

[Stafford Cox]

I’d look at replacing that black head before stressing about calibrations. All the heads are calibrated to black and with that many deflecting you’re pretty much aligning by guesswork.

[Stafford Cox]

Well done Dan. Always use crop marks too in case there’s a white space in the customers artwork.

[Stafford Cox]

Looks about right to me.

[Stafford Cox]

Have you tried the normal user calibration for feed?

[Stafford Cox]

Yes, most likely calibrations. What calibrations have you done and in what order?#

Stafford

[Stafford Cox]

You should be able to pick them up from anyone who sells their own alternative inks to SS21.

[Stafford Cox]

Yes, you most definitely can, but just bare in mind that they are dated for good reason. I’d imagine Mimaki are a little over cautious with their dates but if you’re talking years out of date I’d be very wary. Particularly if you have a contract on the machine, it will likely invalidate the printhead.

[Stafford Cox]

It depends on how out of date they are. I think you can use them up to 3 months after the expiry date from memory.

[Stafford Cox]

Sorry John, I can’t PM as I’m a supplier. I’ll have a look for your original post…

[Stafford Cox]

Hi John. Yes, we do. We have Mimaki trained JFX200 engineers working for us. Probably best to start a new post and I’ll see if I can help you.

Stafford.

[Stafford Cox]

Well done Kevin, I was going to suggest cap to be honest. Maybe you should add Mimaki Stafford to your phone contacts for next time, just in case 😀

[Stafford Cox]

Yeah, I guessed so. It was quite good actually. Seemed slow but I had time to speak to people properly and the leads are really solid. Sold 2 machines already 🙂

[Stafford Cox]

Thanks Iain. I was hoping to see you at the show last week.

Hi Kevin. Which Mimaki have you got and what’s the problem? Maybe I can help on here? And who seems to have gone on the missing list? I wouldn’t want to tread on anybody’s toes.

Stafford.

[Stafford Cox]

Is there anything I can advise with on here?

[Stafford Cox]

Thanks Chris. Yes, you’re right on all counts. (I hope this is OK, mods?)

[Stafford Cox]

Sorry Dan, I’ve just not had chance to check them what with show preparations and breakdowns. Probably best to speak with Lucy in the office on Monday as I’m off up to the NEC now and won’t be back until late Friday.

Sorry
Stafford.

[Stafford Cox]

It’s a good show. The first one was last year in Telford but they’ve moved it to the NEC this year. I’ll be there in stand C40.

[Stafford Cox]

I’ll have to check how good they are tomorrow but usually around half price, £350.

[Stafford Cox]

Yeah, we had 4 come in from a machine last week. I think 1 is spoken for already though.

[Stafford Cox]

We may have some ‘previously enjoyed’ ones from demo machines if they’re of interest?

[Stafford Cox]

Roland list price is £724.99 + VAT each.

[Stafford Cox]

Yes, they are. 1000002201 from memory.

[Stafford Cox]

This happens far too often unfortunately. That M/Y head definitely needs replacing as you say. I’d also start by replacing the K damper on the other head and maybe even the cap. Depending on your budget, I’d recommend at least 1 head, 2 caps and 4 dampers and see where you are from there.

Stafford

[Stafford Cox]

quote Gary Barker:

http://www.applied-image.com Roger / Mark

if you know what parts and your fitting them yourself
http://www.digiprint-supplies.com

Mark is currently away on holiday so Roger should be able to help. Let me know if you’re stuck.

[Stafford Cox]

Hi Richard.

I’d go with dampers first, too. The fact you can get the nozzle test back from cleaning would suggest to me that the pump and cap are doing their job. I only use/sell genuine compression dampers on these machines as generic ones have proven temperamental in my experience. Just replace the ones that need replacing though.

As for overspray, it could be anything. Pictures say a thousand words in these situations. Post some up and I’ll see if I can help.

Stafford

[Stafford Cox]

Move the carriage very slowly to the right until it’s just a couple of mm away from the end and it should lock in.

[Stafford Cox]

Loads of places will sell genuine SS21. Xpres, GPT, YPS, Granthams… As Bernard says, 3rd party inks will save you heaps of money and will most likely give a better after sale service. Just do your research into whatever company you decide to give your business.

Stafford.

[Stafford Cox]

I just use the torch on my phone these days but I used to have one with blue LED’s which was so much better.

[Stafford Cox]

That’s what I suggested to Leo, Mat. I have fitted VS printheads to JV/CJV-150/300 in the past, and it does work.

[Stafford Cox]

That’s interesting Loic, my understanding was that the voltages and waveforms were all stored in the head memory board. I could be mistaken though, of course.

Anyway, nice speaking to you today, Leo.

[Stafford Cox]

Thanks for your recommendation guys. This time of year is always difficult for response time what with people on holiday and so on. Without looking at the schedule I’m sure we could get somebody to check it out early next week.

Stafford.

[Stafford Cox]

quote Philip Gibbs:

I’ve got to say i am tempted to buy a new printhead and mainboard from digiprint.

Could it be anything else that I haven’t thought of?
I’m just worried there is more wrong because of it not going into service mode.

If I fit them correctly what do you think the chance that they will fail in the next 3 years?
Am I throwing good money after bad?

It’s really not easy to say. It depends on so many factors, from inks to maintenance etc. And you just can’t predict electrical faults.

[Stafford Cox]

quote Philip Gibbs:

Thanks for trying.
The guy who I bought the printer off says he might have one but he is on holiday too. Do you know anyone reliable over here in Spain?
Or do you fancy a holiday here? hehe

If you’re paying, sure!! [emoji3]

The only techies I know in Spain work for Ricoh I’m afraid and they probably won’t know your machine.

[Stafford Cox]

I think this is a fantastic idea 😀

[Stafford Cox]

Hi Philip.

Unfortunately we have no ‘duffers’ here. The only thing now would be to get an engineer (from whichever company you choose) to visit I’m afraid.

Stafford

[Stafford Cox]

I’d look at replacing the cut cable and guides first. Fairly cheap simple to do and worth doing every so often as they are a common failure.

[Stafford Cox]

Morning Philip. Today is my first day in the office as I had to go and rescue an installation on first day back. I’ll have a look when I get there and let you know…

[Stafford Cox]

First day back tomorrow, I think it’s going to be a bit of a shock 🙁

[Stafford Cox]

Yes, that’s exactly what I mean, and for the same reason. To discharge the caps that might still be charged.

To be honest, I’m not sure what to suggest next really without seeing it. I would probably want to put a duff head in there next to try and change the fault.

[Stafford Cox]

The waiting 15 minutes thing is normal on that Mutoh. It’s some sort of protection circuit. You need to go into service mode and test all the other components to eliminate that first (up, down and right at power on). I’m currently away on holiday so can’t do much with limited internet access but saw you were stressing out about it. It could well be a print head as you say but might be a carriage board. We probably have some duff printheads you can try in there to see if it changes the fault but I’m not back until the week after next.

As a side note. ALWAYS switch off and unplug the power cable then switch on the sub power before disconnecting any internal cables.

[Stafford Cox]

You can buy them from us or any Mimaki dealer. Probably the best thing to do is give them all a call and see who has the best price.

[Stafford Cox]

Hi Russel. Is it version 7 or 8 you need?

[Stafford Cox]

Are you looking for a print and cut machine or a separate printer and cutter?

Print and cut combined is great if you’re tight on space but you can only cut whilst printing or print whilst cutting. Roland do the VS/VSi which are belting machines, TruVis I’ve not heard great things about. Mimaki do the CJV which pretty good too.

Separate printer and cutter you have more options but take up space of course. Mimaki do the JV printers and CG-FX cutter which are fantastic and would be my choice, but you also have Epson, HP, Mutoh, Ricoh, Oki…. and then Roland, Mutoh, Graphtec, Summa cutters.

Work out your budget, width and preference of combined or separate machines and ring all the dealers and let them battle for you custom.

Good luck.

[Stafford Cox]

Assuming it’s a JV33, replacing the cap alone doesn’t need calibration. Replacing the whole station will need recalibrating.

[Stafford Cox]

It’s because RIP’s try to produce grays from 4 colours by default. See if the RIP has an option for Mono Print or similar, or maybe even try switch off the colour management altogether. Although this might cause a latex to over ink (it does on ours anyway).

[Stafford Cox]

The 6000 and 8600 Graphtec are both good. Many people don’t see the benefit of the extra cost of the 8600. It is faster though and the tracking is apparently better but the print and cut is pretty much identical on the two.
The Cutting Master software runs on Mac and PC.

mod-edit

[Stafford Cox]

Has the machine been problematic from install?

[Stafford Cox]

Morning Craig.

I don’t personally know much about the JFX200 but I have a guy who does so I’ve messaged him to see what he can suggest. Also, I do use and support our own UV printers (not Mimaki) and can tell you that gloss can be vastly improved by printing the layer without the lamp and then raise the head a little and cure after printing. This will give you a really glossy finish and where the ink is not cured immediately, will also fill in any slight banding you might get.

I’ll let you know what our guy comes back with when I here from him.

Stafford

[Stafford Cox]

New one on me to be honest. Unless you’re having ink leaks or dropouts from the head, I’d leave the dampers alone. As said earlier in this post, you can potentially snap a manifold and while it’s not difficult to do, it’s down time for pretty much no reason.

[Stafford Cox]

Mo at P&P on here does t-shirt printing and a nice guy too. ‭01622 831750‬.

[Stafford Cox]

Always genuine for me. I’ve seen too many failures of ‘high quality generic’ parts in my time to run the risk. Do it right and do it once.

Mutoh recommend replacing the entire maintenance assembly and wiper every 12 months. They do get pretty crusty but 18-24 months is my recommendation.

Stafford.

[Stafford Cox]

quote Andrew Edwards:

Optimiser certainly isn’t a cause of delamination (nice try Stafford :rollseyes: ) Optimiser is simply a clear ink – nothing more. It just has an opposite electrical charge to the ink particles so they stick to the media quickly. It helps adhesion and allows for faster print speeds. It also sits underneath the inked surface and does not play any roll in laminate adhesion.

What a genuinely great post. I stand corrected.

[Stafford Cox]

Exactly as Pane says. The Summa comes with its own software call Summa Cutter Control. This can be used as I plugin or a standalone (I think) and enables you to embed the correct registration marks into the file.

[Stafford Cox]

The out gassing and delamination problems are not a latex problem, they’re an optimiser problem. If you find a latex printer that runs without the need of an optimiser you won’t have delamination problems.

Just saying.

[Stafford Cox]

What’s the problem Denise? Maybe I can advise?

[Stafford Cox]

Looks to me like poor quality printheads that have been poorly calibrated. Maybe even an electrical fault on your M or lm.

[Stafford Cox]

I am assuming you’re running it in a 2 x CMYK configuration? If so, have you tried pulling out one set of CMYK so it’s running just on the left for example. Run a job and see if it drops out. If it does, try plugging them back in and pulling the other side CMYK in and run the same. That way you’ve eliminated the M6 valves and solenoids on the back of the cartridge assemblies. If that fails, post on here again and we’ll eliminate the next bit….

Stafford

[Stafford Cox]

I daren’t recommend what I use for fear of being shot but try looking for an automotive paint adhesion promoter.

[Stafford Cox]

I don’t think Onyx is the fastest of RIPs but that does sound excessive. Maybe try backsaving the PDF as earlier version as possible (maybe v1.3) with as little compression as possible. Larger file size of course but should speed things up.

[Stafford Cox]

Try Michael at Signs Express Peterborough.

[Stafford Cox]

Glad you popped in Iain, was good to meet you at last.

[Stafford Cox]

As a supplier, I think it’s been great! We probably took more serious leads in the last 2 days than the last 2 entire sign shows. Happy day 3 everyone.

[Stafford Cox]

Come and take a look round Sign UK. There are other machines that print just as well, some of which are very close to the Hybrid stand and can deliver in a much shorter time.

[Stafford Cox]

quote Robert Lambie:

quote Hugh Potter:

just realised that it clashes with a long booked hospital appointment in London so I’ll not be up this year

Nice one, so your really going ahead with the Sex change Hugh? [emoji1] [emoji6]

[emoji1] [emoji1] [emoji1]

Having been here since Sunday lunchtime, I must say it actually feels bigger than recent years. Maybe it’s just just getting taller…?

[Stafford Cox]

I personally don’t like the dual DX7 setup on Mimaki or Roland as much as the single. For some reason they don’t seem to run as smoothly as the single DX7 setup on the 150 or VSi. I think it’s because of the way the ink lines are distributed across the 2 heads

My personal experience only of course.