Andrew Blackett
Forum Replies Created
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What channel is that Dan?? Looks very cool!
Might be a touch too big for our engraver but my brother in law has a huge glass sandblast unit so thats an option too.
Are the LED’s easy enough to put together?
Andy
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With a lightbox, presumably I need to use translucent vinyls?
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Andrew Blackett
MemberJuly 11, 2012 at 1:12 pm in reply to: Looking foR supplier of Steel poster caseKevin – just seen lockable frames in the Ashby catalogue, they look really nice so might be worth a look;
http://www.ashbytrade.net/home/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=247&Itemid=343
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberJune 27, 2012 at 8:05 pm in reply to: Can anyone recommend a next day delivery companyWe have an account with FedEx but used Parcel Monkey when FedEx van broke down and we needed a parcel delivered urgently the next day.
http://www.parcelmonkey.co.uk/
Andy
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I do the same as Phill – I cut down banner like this quite often.
Andy
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Nope sorry Rob, but you’ve heard of the vajazzle right?? Well I’ve wrapped both cheeks in di-noc carbon fibre.
Got third degree burns from the post heating though! Am launching a new site soon ; pimpmyarse.com
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Of course, I’m in one now – luckily I’ve managed to find one with 3G coverage.
Next I’m off to ram raid snappy snaps
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quote Phill Fenton:Me and Andy could do a duet together :lol1:
:rofl:
Just being showing my other half all of these, worringly I was told "at least you got a good looking one" 😮
I’ve not even managed to reply to that yet
Andy
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Hi Simon,
I normally find that if you set the page space to 60mm before you print, then change it to 80mm before cutting It seems to find them automatically and carries on
How did you find the alignment when doing them in small batches?
Andy
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Best of luck Simon!
I’ve found your email address on your company website and have sent the instructions through.
Andy
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We just have a piece of plastic 50mm wide, it’s held against the edge of the banner and a pencil line drawn on all round the banner.
Remove the backing from the tape and fold the outside edge of the banner to the line – works a treat!
Andy
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I dont think you’re doing anything wrong! I’m a firm believer that if you feel a different profile works better then that’s your prerogative.
As long as they dry nice and print quality is good then that’s good, i use oracal 3164 profile on "max impact" on most things, oracal or not!
I had an actual mactac profile for some media and it printed horrible but flicked to oracal and it was great.
Andy
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Hi Phil,
I messed about with trying to print the flag myself, not to mention the mess it makes, solvent prints with very muted colours and bleeds like crazy.
I’d be looking to sub contract it out to be honest. Ultima display can print, supply and finish.
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberJune 13, 2012 at 8:26 pm in reply to: whats the best method of applying graphics to a bar?If it needs to be stuck, my best suggestion would a good quality vinyl and over laminate with crystal/sandtex as this wont look scuffed like gloss would and is more resistant than a standard matt.
Andy
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Hi Simon,
I’ve just finished a tutorial on this which rob is putting on the site soon.
If you pm your email address I can always send you a copy if you like.
Andy
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Could it be that the pinch rollers have been moved – giving a bigger width reading? Clutching at straws! Ours barely move.
Andy
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Hi David,
Look at around point 94 in the linked pdf.
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/priced/power-guillotines.pdf It states that;
quote :Every six months a competent guillotine engineer or independent engineer/engineer surveyor should perform a thorough inspection of the machine which should comprise a series of performance checks and tests in addition to the various checks and tests carried out at each shift, after knife changes and every month. These are detailed in Section 3 of this publication. A written report should be issued and kept in your log (see Appendix 2).Andy
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Hi Warren,
I use a konica C500 pro, its on lease from Danwood on a service agreement. We pay a fixed "click" price which covers us for unlimited call outs, parts and toner. The 6500 is the newer model and is meant to be very good and is just coming into the refurb range.
Danwood are good as you can add the extra units to their refurb machine at no extra cost, we’ve got the large capacity tray and booklet finisher (staples, folds etc) Whichever you go for make sure it will print SRA3 size so you can trim down 2 x A4 with bleed. Also make sure they put you on a "single click" rate so that your SRA3 sheet is only one click rather than 2.
Make sure whatever you do you are on a service agreement, these things go wrong and would be mighty costly if you arent covered.
Guillotine, we run an ideal one from CJB printing equipment, if you get an electric one (which I’d recommend) then make sure you get it from a reputable company and ensure it comes with its safety certificate – you’ll need an inspection and certificate every 6 months (law)
Anything else, shout
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberJune 11, 2012 at 12:52 pm in reply to: can anyone help with pdf & poor print quality?Its under the "Quality" tab, "Colour Management" in the "Preset" dropdown.
It’s probably on "Pre-press US" as default, change it to "Density Control Only", whilst you’re there try a job on "max impact" its the only one I use now!
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberJune 11, 2012 at 12:46 pm in reply to: can anyone help with pdf & poor print quality?I believe it forces the Versacamm to only use black ink to produce greys and greyscale rather than using all 4 colours. My thinking was that if its only using 1 colour it might be less "fuzzy" where it lays each one down?
Long shot…….
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberJune 11, 2012 at 12:39 pm in reply to: can anyone help with pdf & poor print quality?Just a shot in the dark, can you not amend the colour so its made up just as a percentage of black? Then (I use versaworks) just use "density control only" so its only laying down black ink?
Andy
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Obviously I can’t say that this fixes all machines. I too had major problems with print/cut alignment but either one or a combination of the above "fixes" seems to have resolved it.
Might be "pot luck" but until such time it stops working I’ll keep doing them 😀
Andy
Just a thought does your machine have issues with registration on print and cut in one process or only after lamination?
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Andrew Blackett
MemberJune 7, 2012 at 7:09 pm in reply to: Printed Pens Trade-Only supplier recommendation’s?Speak to Senator Pens, not sure if its "trade only" but prices are really keen and never had a problem.
Andy
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quote Andy Blackett:I feel a tutorial coming on George!
Can you wait till tonight and I’ll type it up with screen grabs? PM with your email and I’ll send it over.
Andy
In your inbox now George, sorry I never got it done yesterday
Andy
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quote Paul Hodges:For anyone who gets this problem on a regular basis, if it’s any help, the only way to avoid it that we found was to print your document, take it straight off and laminate it, put it back on the printer and cut it – all in the one continuous session and it works brilliantly.
Where it seems to hit a problem is if you print a variety of documents in one session, laminate some time later and return for cutting some time later or following day, then results are hit and miss and you end up binning half your work.
Only "issue" with that being that the ink will be very fresh. Think its popular belief to give at least 24 hours before laminating.
Perhaps environment match before and after printing – before cutting might assist.
I’ve just finished cutting (laminated prints) down about 20m of small decals, 94mm x 52mm and window stickers, 250mm x 50mm. All of which were printed on one roll with the prints broken into small batches. Not a single problem. Weird isnt it 😕
Andy
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Try something like a standard vinyl profile as I find these put down less ink, I use oracal 3164 on high quality. Heaters on 40 and 45 (45 on dryer side)
Did a large (1500mm x 1300mm) black poster the other week and left it printing on its own overnight onto takeup and was fine.
Andy
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I feel a tutorial coming on George!
Can you wait till tonight and I’ll type it up with screen grabs? PM with your email and I’ll send it over.
Andy
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Its under the "Printer Controls" tab, put a tick in "Use custom settings" then choose page space from the drop down box.
Andy
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Hi George,
Hope I’ve interpreted your question correctly.
But yes the machine prints optical marks for each custom cut job. So your run of 250 decals is broken down into batches of say 50 each with optical marks. I set versaworks to give a 60mm page space when printing then adjust to 80mm page space when cutting. The machine detects each set of crops automatically and cuts.
Andy
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I haven’t used the media clamps in donkeys – tend to find that buckling is either temperature or vacuum power not being sufficient to keep the media flat. If the media is damaged on the ends then clamps are essential.
Is it one particular media or all that do this? The clamps won’t prevent strikes in the middle so I’d be adjusting the temp and vacuum first.
Andy
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quote Simon Worrall:Andy the 250 was a single job, I dont know anything about custom cuts. Neither do I know what you mean by Automatic print and cut alignment. Isnt that what it usually does? (Rather, tries to do)
Simon.
Custom cut breaks the one large job into smaller runs, each small run has it’s own optical marks so it’s a but more accurate.
Automatic print and cut alignment prints a small square and uses the sensor to detect it to calibrate its cutting accuracy. You can also use the manual print/cut alignment to correct things. This prints two graph lines and plots a cut through both and you enter the values to calibrate.
Andy
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Was the run of 250 set as one job or broken into smaller amounts using custom cut??
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Have you tried automatic print and cut alignment?
I do this on a regular basis and it keeps things tidy. I used to get the same fault but not anymore. Can only think its the steps detailed above?!
Andy
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Did you create the image George? Looks good
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quote Chris Windebank:its their own font Gary.
Andy, having trouble running that program, can I pm you later?
Of course!
Andy
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HI Gary,
Have extracted that font from the pdf for you, follow the guide here; https://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.php?p=426297
Hope this helps
Andy
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No Dan I am truly a genius!
I’m not certain myself whether its coincidence or not but until it stops working I’ll do it every time!
Have you tried doing the custom cut way yet? Set page space for printing at 60mm, laminate as normal. Put it back in the machine and square it up, change the page space to 80mm and it’ll automatically find each and every set! Dont forget environment match before you start though 😉
Andy
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We use proscribe from drytac, I seem to remember its cheaper too.
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberMay 25, 2012 at 12:13 pm in reply to: ‘strange’ request from customer, help/ideas neededWhat about mounting to 1mm foamboard Lorraine – its about £4-£5 for an 8×4 from memory. Would be stiff enough but not too heavy.
Andy
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Paper graphics have some stonking deals on Aslan 7 year polymeric vinyl. Data sheet says its a silicone pe liner so sounds good on paper.
Have used a fair bit of Arlon 4500, prints nice and release is good but would second the earlier comments about contamination. Had a few rolls where the markings on the backing paper had stained the face of the vinyl with pink marks.
Andy
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We bought 2 pieces of 10×5 toughened glass. Good few years on they are scuffed but no deep cuts that catch the blade and drag it off course.
Andy
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First check would be gunk on the encoder or fluff in the reader bit. Bend a foam swab and run it (gently) over the encoder strip on both sides to clean it.
Run environment match and try again.
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberMay 17, 2012 at 7:33 pm in reply to: What Colour best matches Matt Black for Visual Vehicle Wrap?What about something like 80-90% black?
Andy
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Sorted now. Solution in a tutorial soon.
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberMay 16, 2012 at 9:52 pm in reply to: help making a bleed for cutting out logoOh and I forgot!
If I was cutting that image, I’d vectorise it if its not already, create an image boundary in corel which just represents the outer edge none of the inner curves.
Depending on how big the graphic is, make an inside contour on the boundary of say 2 or 3mm. Break the contour group apart and centre the newly created cut path over the original image.
I know its kinda cheating but if this was say 500mm tall who would notice that its 2mm narrower?
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberMay 16, 2012 at 9:49 pm in reply to: help making a bleed for cutting out logoMy golden rules for print and cut after laminating;
As many pinch rollers as possible
Heaters as normal
New blade, reduces drag, correctly set pressure of course!
If its something big I reduce the speed of both cut and lift to 10
Move anything away from the front and back of the machine that might cause the vinyl to bang, buckle or otherwiseAlign the two front "optical cirlcle marks" over the cutting strip. I can normally feel the cutting strip through the vinyl and aim to position this at the mid point of each circle.
Run environment match before cutting
Used to always struggle but had some really good advice from Chris Wool (cheers Chris 😉 ) and a bit of trial and error and its good now. I find if its as much as 3mm out I’ve missed something from the above.
Andy
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No attachment I’m afraid 😉
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Andrew Blackett
MemberMay 14, 2012 at 9:07 pm in reply to: versaworks cannot connect to server problem?Result! You can relax now dan……. or work all night to catch up!
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Andrew Blackett
MemberMay 14, 2012 at 7:23 pm in reply to: versaworks cannot connect to server problem?Hi Dan,
Instead of trying to update through the application, try launching the "online update" program from the start menu, under versaworks.
I think theres something to do with the permissions on windows 7 (you know the old "a program is trying to access the internet" message) If I launch the update through the program it doesnt work but works fine the other way.
Andy
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Hi Stu,
To give you a comparison – most takeaway menus you get through the door will be 135gsm gloss paper.
If its something more professional, I’d be tempted to go to a 170gsm but have a look at silk
Andy
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We had ours apart for about fifteen minutes while we moved and reinstalled it on its trolley. Just did a head clean and test print when complete.
I’m not an expert David but we certainly had no issues doing it this way.
Andy
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Hi David,
Cant quote exactly because we have an SP540 but theres a blue metal bracket that bolts to the body of the machine and locks the head in its docking position.
After that we just took out the carts and waste ink bottle.
Andy
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No problem – if you do a smaller one keep in mind that the smallest width tile that versaworks will create is 9.75mm ish – that annoyed me for ages!!
Why not just publish a blank page at the right size and familiarise yourself with it that way?
Andy
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Hi David,
Set your page size as quarter size the whole stand (i.e. the total width of the five drops)
Design as normal, publish with a 5mm bleed all round, no crops or file info.
In versaworks start by expanding it to 400%. Now under clip and tile you will create the drops. If its a 5 drop stand (3 middle and 2 ends) you’ll need;
7 horizontal tiles
3 vertical2 of the horizontal will be the bleed left and right and 2 of the vertical will be bleed top and bottom. The "bleed" tiles will be 20mm width/height (400% at 5mm original size)
I find it easier to tell versaworks how many tiles I want then use the "manual tiling" setting. Start top left and key the width and drop of the first panel;
location 1 – column 1 – 20mm wide x 20mm high (bleed size)
location 2 – column 1 – 20mm wide x "pop up height"
location 3 – column 1 – 20mm wide x 20mm high (bleed size)then;
location 1 – column 2 – "pop up panel width" x 20mm high
location 2 – column 2 – "pop up panel width" x "pop up height"
location 3 – column 2 – "pop up panel width" x 20mm highColumn 3,4,5,6 will be the same as column 2
Column 7 will be the same as column 1 (maybe give or take a fraction of a millimeter)Once you’ve keyed all these, right click on all the bleed areas to disable the printing of them (you dont want a load of 20mm strips!) You need to set an overlap on all corners of say 3mm (this will be your actual trimming bleed)
If I remember rightly it will automatically add the crop marks, if not just select trim marks. Centre the "tiles" on your media and away you go!
Dont know if you’ve already sorted it but I’d recommend the solvent pop up media from paper graphics. Prints beautifully and dries quickly, I just use our standard vinyl profile and temperatures as normal.
Hope this helps, shout if I can help further though David – best of luck.
NB. Dont delete the job until you’ve successfully printed, laminated and trimmed (and fitted to the stands) just in case you need to print one drop again!
Andy
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quote Denise Goodfellow:He went on a wrapping course when they first started to appear, and he said it helped him alot with his technique.
So I`d get onto Rob about the course ( I have also inquired)
PS, I like to use the squeege which has a felt on 1 end.
I’ll second that!! I really struggled hand applying vinyl (am great with a laminator funnily enough!!) I did the wrap course at William Smith – whilst I realised that wrapping wouldnt be our companies bread and butter I came away with a better understanding of the different types of vinyl, there use and techniques of applying.
Mind it doesnt help when you watch someone like Andrew Gamble, they make these things look so easy and you just end up depressed when you fail miserably 2" down the job!
Incidentally can I use a felt squeegee to apply masked vinyl?? I can apply laminated vinyl with a felt squeegee without a bubble but give me a plastic one and its like being the naive 16 year old trainee again!!
Andy
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Cracked it!!!
When printing set the page space to 60mm and when ready to cut set it to 80mm.
Works a treat, did 5 sets of "custom cut" jobs without having to base point between each sheet
Andy
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Really want to rip the black lettering off – its not there font style or anything. Its been there since the eighties looking at it!
Got to see him about some other things so might send a simulation over! Good call Glenn!
Andy
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Something like that!!
Being 100% honest there was a couple – but only little ones. I’d of wrecked the whole print though trying to peel it back. Sure I can pin prick them out though if they hang around! Not that they are noticable from the pavement!
Andy
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Failing that speak to Merv at Microwhite, http://www.microwhite.co.uk/index.html Merv’s the daddy when it comes to engraving controllers and electronics.
He’ll probably have it sorted for you in a matter of minutes. Good contact to keep on your browser too as he repairs all the old controllers that the big suppliers wont touch….. as they want to sell you new ones 👿
Andy
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Hi Isaac,
I’m afraid I cant comment directly on this machine as I’m not familiar with it. However you need to be adjusting the "cutter lift" – this will adjust how high the cutter is lifted from its engraving position before moving to the next letter.
The lower the lift – the quicker the job completes but you run the risk of scratching if the material is a bit bowed or your table isnt totally flat
The higher the lift the less chance of scraping but make it too high and the job will take ages to complete.On our old cipher machines this was controlled by a setting in the driver file, this was just a text file with various settings – I just bumped the number up re-opened the software and tried it – just make sure you have scrap in the machine in case it goes horribly wrong!
I would hazard a guess that the driver file for your particular table will be somewhere in the program folder.
Andy
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Hi Cheryl,
Last time I got one was a semi-rigid one from Jag sign supplies. The face is plastic with a soft surround. They also do one with stainless trim around the outside;
http://www.jagsignsupplies.com/aqshop/catalogue.php?id=7
Andy
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Its a procedure the versacamm does to adapt for changes in temperature and conditions.
My understanding of it is the warmer or colder the room is will have an affect on the encoder strip as it expands and contracts. By running "environment match" the machine flies along reads the encoder and calibrates itself to its current size.
Just press menu, and then keep pressing up till you find "env match" hit the enter key and away it goes.
Andy
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quote Phill Fenton:Here you go Andy – Rob did this demo many years ago – tells you everything you ever wanted to know about building panatrim frames but were afraid to ask
https://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.php?t=17591
A couple of links are broken – here’s part 2
https://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.php?t=17587And part 3 is here
https://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.php?t=17586Ah good stuff there, if I was using say 3mm hoarding board and had a join – if I just high bond taped a strip over the join it would hold?
Andy
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Hi John,
I used tek screws through the front, where the join was on the two panels it opened up and looks bloody awful…. not a good advert!
How are the channels fixed?
Andy
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Found another "think it works better" type method too Dan – I always do "Environment Match" before I start the cut procedure, seems to work well.
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberApril 11, 2012 at 6:10 pm in reply to: anyone else got major probs with hotmail?didnt know I’d gone anywhere Rob – I just exist in the shadows waiting to spring on a reply like a ninja (bully)
quote Robert Lambie:quote Andy Blackett:What about updating your browser Hugh? Of maybe try swopping Firefox for Internet explorer or vice versa?also, good to see you back on the boards Andy, great stuff mate. 😉
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I’d put forward DTP supplies – they have there own tooling department so can make specials etc to order. I cant remember how much it was but its lasted donkeys and will probably outlast my career!
http://www.dtpsupplies.co.uk we deal with John Preston
I use their nickel plated eyelets – again like the one mentioned above they are very very heavy so dont drop it!
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberApril 7, 2012 at 5:26 pm in reply to: P-CUT0630 – problem with contour cuttingCan’t help with the particular plotter but you can save as anything you want in notepad. Just choose "all files" in the save window then in the file name window put say "test.csm" without the quote marks
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Andrew Blackett
MemberApril 7, 2012 at 3:45 pm in reply to: anyone else got major probs with hotmail?What about updating your browser Hugh? Of maybe try swopping Firefox for Internet explorer or vice versa?
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I tend to use the Oracal 3164 profile for all my vinyl work. Its whatever you find works best for you.
The only time I alter is if I set it to do "Max Impact" rather than the standard setting, specially if I want my colours to really pop out.
I tend to go to http://download.rolanddg.jp/en/color.html for my profiles, might be an obvious one but you can use the SP540v profiles on the 300 and vice versa.
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberMarch 26, 2012 at 6:53 pm in reply to: Static Cling does not cling – Any IdeasMouths watering at the thought Dan…. let us know as and when you do mate 😉
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Andrew Blackett
MemberMarch 26, 2012 at 6:15 pm in reply to: Static Cling does not cling – Any Ideasquote Jamie Wood:We rarely use white self cling any more – too many problems. We’ve gone back to
using clear with a white back-up.Same boat as Jamie!
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Hi Dan,
Sorry mate I’ve been googling, I used Transpond – which is like the calculator font.
Andy
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Used this on a client job dan – I just googled for it
Failing that I can upload it on Monday for you – would remote login and email from work but someone pulled my plug 👿
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Andrew Blackett
MemberMarch 10, 2012 at 8:59 am in reply to: Engineer for Uniform Cadet Plus 1400C SP540quote Derek Heron:just a thumbs up for colin tupman:thumbup2:
top man
derek
I’ll second that too – good bloke and incredibly knowledgable.
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberMarch 9, 2012 at 11:10 am in reply to: Printed Images Changes mid way through print.I’d hazard a guess at static, I’ve used static cling before and its a pain for static buildup.
Maybe try unrolling the media on the back of the machine first, let it stand a little and re-try
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberMarch 2, 2012 at 9:43 pm in reply to: is there an automatic image drop into a grid?I’d use photopaint and record a macro to re-size/crop them as squares (or get them all to 5×7 etc so its uniform)
Using either the "device independant postscript file" virtual printer or print to adobe acrobat distiller. Using the print imposition tool under the layout tab I’d create a page the size of the panel (8′ x 4′ etc) and tell it I want "x" copies wide and "x" copies deep with "x mm" space.
Check out my tutorial on serialised numbering as it explains this at the end. This is for draw but would work the same in photopaint – just dont expect to do much else whilst its processing.
Andy
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We use haines brothers, their website is;
http://www.thewipeshop.co.uk/index.php?cPath=23&osCsid=ffe47f2f1521084efc46408c1f29d717
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberFebruary 28, 2012 at 6:58 pm in reply to: what substrate is suitable for white board markers?We get ours from Dry-Tac, its called pro-scribe.
Andy
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One of my clients got a price of £12 for full colour digital, double sided on corex, the post, fixings etc………………………………………………. and fitting!! 😮
That was for a batch of 100 signs, which are obviously reusable too, I told him to take their hand off and just charged for artwork.
Andy
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quote Stu Gardiner:quite regularly they are only very small and it is usually towards the middle of the vinyl, I have noticed that the vinyl seems to raise slightly towards the center even though I have the vacuum on fully.
Dont bother wasting your money on the clamps stu – they only really stop the head getting caught as it passes the outer edge of the media. They’ll make little or no difference to the centre of the media.
I get this when the temperature of the roll is lower than the pre-heater, its particularly bad at the moment as its cold outside. Try lowering the heaters say 5 degrees and see if that alleviates it.
The Arlon 4500 I use suffers exactly the same but find 40 degrees pre and post print works well when it starts to buckle. You can always shove a halogen heater in front it you find you have heavy print areas that arent drying as quickly as you’d like.
Andy
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Just found this one which negates the tracing step;
It will let you download the finished code as pdf, eps and others
Andy
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Hi Mike,
I used http://qrcode.kaywa.com/ on a recent job (on the laser engraver) It’ll download as a png graphic but they trace beautifully in corel.
I think I got these down to about 15mm square on the tags – don’t think theres a maximum size, as long as the lens on the reading device can fit it in.
Andy
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The 100mm spacing didnt work, tried it today. The machine tried to find them but stopped about 20mm short, I’ve got some other jobs printing at the moment with a 60mm page space, I reckon this will be ok.
The take up system; I wouldnt do it with the standard "chinese style" ones, I had one but added a bigger motor and an optical sensor so that it only winds up when the vinyl is 3" from the floor. The motor and mandrels are mounted on the higher steel bar (the one directly under the heater rather than near the floor) so I get a good 500mm of free material thats not under tension – I break my cut jobs into 1320mm x 450mm runs then its cutting on the loose stuff, the next sheet comes out and the completed one is wound on.
The bigger motor means I can wind up a good 35m (havent tried more yet!) and it doesnt struggle to pull! I found the standard wimpy motor would give up after about 15m!
I’ll let you know if 60mm is better for auto sensing.
Andy
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Senator pens, they are trade only. Or try premiumportfolio.com, the company behind this is Laltex, again trade only. I normally go on the tact of "I have a client who would like some….."
Premium Portfolio is a good one to get into as you get a big A4 book full of goodies that you can offer
Andy
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Roland to the rescue…..
Kai from tech supported reckons the following is the solution;
100mm page space set in versaworks
Turn off sheet cut
Use take up rollerAndy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberDecember 15, 2011 at 2:26 pm in reply to: Genuine Trade suppliers of Roll up stands.Have a try on alibaba.com, I’ve imported some bits and bobs using suppliers on there.
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberNovember 28, 2011 at 8:00 pm in reply to: What do you do with the old signs you remove?I’d imagine, and I might well be wrong, that she paid you for it so ownership would change hands to her at that time.
Although there is the argument that she abandoned it and at that point it "might" be classed as commercial waste :lol1:
Andy
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Heaters (both print and dry) on full as it will soften the laminate and make it easier to cut…… honest 😉
Andy -
Andrew Blackett
MemberOctober 26, 2011 at 9:21 pm in reply to: Anyone got a BRABANTIA bin with a busted lid? youl like thisHi Mo,
Thanks mate I’ll bare these in mind, I’ve highlighted the subjects I’m interested in
quote Mo Gillis-Coates:PC’s Builds and maintenance
Changing Nappies got that badge already
working late late nights are for pool and drinking not working
putting fires out next time I encounter a fire I’ll post a message requesting your advice
Emergency First aid including trauma care and defib Can barely manage with my little lads splinters so think defib might be a leap too far
flatulence I can get my other half to fax a copy of my competence certificate for this
Trumpet playing with the above???
more flatulence and why not!
Photoshop NOOOOO, thats the dark side….. -
Andrew Blackett
MemberOctober 25, 2011 at 7:34 pm in reply to: Anyone got a BRABANTIA bin with a busted lid? youl like thisArrived, looking spanking!!! Not the sort of great instruction I’d of expected to get from here but its helped all the same ;O)
Andy
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Hi Peter,
Sounds like the right idea anyway, had a visit from Gill (william smith) who suggested the same as you.
I’m just printing a test one now and will hope to fit next week – watch this space.
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberOctober 12, 2011 at 8:21 pm in reply to: Anyone got a BRABANTIA bin with a busted lid? youl like thisCheers fella!!!
If ours arrives (ordered through the brabantia website) I’ll be out of the dog house! I managed to break ours whilst under the influence 😳
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberSeptember 17, 2011 at 8:00 am in reply to: Help Finding a Tunic Supplier (Beauty Salon)Try Alexandra http://www.alexandra.co.uk/catalogue/beauty/tunics/
We used to get loads of tunics for our veterinary clients before subbing it out for embroidery. Ring and get trade pricing though as I think these are retail
Andy
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Andrew Blackett
MemberSeptember 14, 2011 at 1:14 pm in reply to: digital print how much left on a rollAh got it, thanks Phil!!
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Andrew Blackett
MemberSeptember 14, 2011 at 11:32 am in reply to: digital print how much left on a rollquote Robert T Walker:Hi AndyIts Sheet Remain
you set the full roll length then ‘PRINT MEMO’
when you come to take the media off the machine
‘PRINT MEMO again and it prints the remaining roll length
on the trailing edge of the mediaBeing blond (not grey for a change!!) is this in versaworks?? if so where am I not looking
Andy
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Just for clarification David, had a good long chat with them and samples were good but never placed an order so cant comment too much.
Use your own gut feeling though I’m sure you’ll be fine
Andy
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Try All Print Supplies, dont know if they do the media you require but they sell their digital stuff by the metre
Andy
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Dont risk it Adam, I’ve been there and thought its been dry and when I’ve tried to seperate the prints they’ve been stuck together.
Andy