Simon Hulme
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Morning Dave, just seen your post.
Had a similar issue no result from conventional sources.
Found local colleges a good source, depends on what staff you actually want?I contacted local college and got a couple of guys from the Signwork course on work experience.
Worked really well. Takes a bit of time and work from yourself as not quite ready to be let loose on their own but found willing to learn.
Eventually set one on full time, still with me 2 years on
Going down same route again now -
we used trim with the knife, takes practice not to cut the paint or lacquer.
Not recommended if you’ve not done it before!
Paint is so thin now, especially on the metallic, these days we use the wrap tape.
Takes a little longer but no nasty phone call in 6 months when the paint starts bubbling.
Make sure you get the one suitable for curves -
Advice is to Buy it in to get a feel for the type of work you’re getting asked for. Sounds like a similar position we were in 18 months ago.
We were getting asked for print more and more so took the advice given here and started buying it in. Within 6 months I was spending £500+/month, more than enough to pay for our own machine!
Benefit is that it gave us time to look at the kind of work we were getting so ended up getting a different machine than initially considered. -
My first reaction is why?
A quality contact adhesive will stick canvas to wood but if you’re planning to wrap or tension the canvas on a frame (which you imply as saying not going to staple?) it probably wont work as most adhesive bonds are weakest when a shear force is applied -
Talk to Graphtec, were really helpful when we has a similar issue. Eventually decided it was easier to return to them to be fixed but happy to send parts if you prefer.
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We’ve used some Ritrama I think it was on a fleet of buses with no issues. Also the Avery is quite good if a little thin and will bend a little round curves. Main thing is to make sure it’s got the solvent adhesive. Some of them have water based for interior use.
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Metamark are our main supplier of vinyls, have been for years. Seem to change sales reps every so often as people move on. Occasionally have issues with the orders but always sorted. Use Hexis for their wrap film which is excellent but I don’t find the standard vinyls as ‘easy’ to work with. It’s a matter of taste and what you’re used to. Great believer in having a good relationship with suppliers. Give a little if they make a mistake and will help you when you do!
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As Jill says save time and grief by buying it in. We’ve been doing that for the last few years, make money on the design and installation, small mark up on the vinyl This year the amount I was spending a month justified the cost of our own printer. The history of the kind of print my clients wanted helped with the decision on the printer.
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quote Stuart Davies:simon who is your supplier for your metamark
stuHi Stu,
http://www.metamark.co.uk/index.htm
on supplies toolbar
Simon -
Vinyl is a bit of a minefield as everyone it seems has their own favorites, I suppose it’s what you get used to.
Good and bad experiences with both manufacturers and distributors also play a part, my own prejudice is that I won’t touch Hexis after a bad experience!
I use mainly Metamark 5 and 7 series for my vehicle graphics, good range of colours, usually in stock and order before 6.00pm I get it next day.
I only use ‘cheap’ vinyl on short term promotions, usually not worth keeping in stock as the material cost is only a small proportion of the overall job cost. -
Thanks for that, will see what they can do
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Don’t know if it depends on the model but mine was held with a circlip (see pic)
pushed it off with flat blade screwdriver, Be careful or it’ll fly off and disappear!!
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I’ve not done a Scania but my advice is DON’T DO IT!!!!
We always get the workshop to sort and show us how if possible?
New DAF is a pain with the central locking and anti theft bits, told us to come back in an hour on the last one!
And as for the New Actros…….it was easier to leave in place and trim!
Sorry I can’t be more help
Simon -
Assuming you cleaned and de-greased, polish is an issue it’s probably a combination of cold and application fluid but mainly the fact you used application fluid!
Sounds harsh but you should be able to fit graphics dry.
No way will Ap. fluid dry when it’s cold.
We’ve used O grade for years with no issues.
Last week we were scraping the ice off 4 vans so we could apply the graphics, thats cold! -
Hi Ben, 2nd vote for Frog Juice if you want a liquid/spray protection but we’ve laminated signs with Anti graffiti film for the last couple of school signs with no issues.
Simon -
This is the template we use if it’s any help? Seems to cover us for most jobs.
I try to leave as vague as possible as there’s always something they haven’t told me till I get on site! No one’s ever checked I’m doing it as my MS anyway!
Another tip is to carry a copy of your Public Liability Insurance, we’ve been asked for it on 2 of the last 3 jobs.Hope it helps
Simon -
Sorry Joe, not sure I can help with your problem either but round here they don’t remove the old, just paste over the top!
Occasionally you’ll see one where it gets too wet and the weight of the mass of paper pulls it off the backing sheets but wouldn’t like to say if they were aluminum or steel?
My only experience is with powder coated panels for churches where the posters stick OK so maybe paint? -
I agree with Martin & Lee, try your local college if you’ve got one but give them a typical sample client or job. Ours is always looking for work experience for the students.
I’ve employed 2 good guys using that route (and weeded out 3 that weren’t suitable) but what they learn in college doesn’t always translate to the ‘real’ world of signs.
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We’ve done a few of these so a couple of points.
The design, have you seen one ‘in the flesh’? I’d really recommend looking, the ‘step’ on the bottom of the body is surprisingly deep. (See pics) We printed from the clients supplied design. If you lined the top of the image as his visual it wouldn’t stretch to cover the bottom. Line up with the bottom (our solution) it didn’t reach far enough up the body.
Fitting not too difficult, but there are quite a few controls/pipes and safety stickers they never show you on the outlines which take time! The welds on the ones we did were quite large and took time to mold and were a bugger for trapping air pockets. Recess on the cab is deep and some kind of plastic, 1st couple popped straight back out so we roughed up the surface to give a better key. Used MD7.
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We had a similar request last month.
Tried photo stands and backdrops but not big enough or suitable for exterior.
Ended up building something on the dealers forecourt. Fence posts, originally with a banner but they weren’t happy with the effect so replaced with white panels.
Sorry, can’t find the photo. If you’re interested I’ll call and take anotherSimon
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Sorry to hear of your problems.
Simple solution should be to read the user manual that should have downloaded with the cutting master software?
Should answer your questions on settings etc. and where to find the corel plugin.
If you can’t find it you can download from the Graphtec website.
If still got issues please ask again.Don’t use corel much but the scissors icon is cut to clipboard which is why it disappears.
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Sorry, it’s very similar to CharlesWright the registration plate font I use but not quite.
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How long are you trying to cut and what height letters?
Longest We’ve ever cut is 7.4m at 575mm. can’t remember what Graphtech recommend.
Few things you can do, others may have there own suggestions.
Main thing is take time in lining up your vinyl, use the sheet function to see if running straight if you’re not sure. I’ve also extended the lines on to the rear to help.
Check your pinch and grit rollers aren’t worn/dirty. You can move them in a little if you don’t need the whole vinyl width to allow for slight variations.
Unroll vinyl so not too tight as can drag offline. -
There are guides on mandatory sizes materials and siting of temporary signage which all come under the chapter 8 regulations. Highways Agency and local authority also have the same guides for permanent signage. You must have the necessary permissions, certification and qualifications to work on the highways. We don’t bother anymore as it got too complicated for a simple signmaker!!
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Recommend Fairfield too. Excellent quality
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Hi David, did job recently
we to used 5mm fomex. hung them from wires on those special suspended ceiling clips.
In various sizes, 2 were 4′ x 1′ and were fine. -
I’ve used Century Plastics in Sheffield. Stock Alcom rather than diabond though?
Cut me a 4’circle end of last year. -
Depends on how long you need it up for?
We’ve used vinyl on a several jobs, different vinyls, heat etc. all lifted in various ways, one overnight others over a few months.
Ended up using paint mask and emulsion on the permanent ones, customers love it.
MD5 or the Hexis seems to last OK on the building hoardings we do. -
Why not give Reflexite a call?
Always been helpful when I’ve asked for info. -
I quite like the work on the new packaging.
Agree the truck need some work, reminds me of B & Q. -
Doesn’t seem to affect the premiums. However I’ve had a couple of occasions where I was told they wouldn’t cover the cost of replacing the damaged graphics when they were printed? Assume its down to cost but worth checking the small print.
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A few companies listed on UKSB toolbar, worth checking out?
I’ve used Bannerbox a few times, always helpful with advice and prices always seem quite competitive.
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Agree, toolbar would be my fist thought but I’ve just had an e-mail ‘New from Metamark’.
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Look like the modular posts by Ashby from the post and plank system? Never used them like that though!!
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I don’t think the semi permanent adhesive would work. I used it to decorate a hall for a Christmas party as they didn’t want it to damage the paint. Thought it’d be OK for one night but apparently it was falling off by the end of the party!
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Did similar job last year, used line paint (from Arco but I’m sure other companies do it) and made some stencils.
http://www.arco.co.uk/products/5717702/55824/Arco Line Marker Spray Paint
Gave them the option of the tape which should have been harder wearing but happy to try the paint. Told them it would wear off eventually but it still looks good nearly 12 months later. Surface needs to be dry so weather this time of year may be an issue.
It took a bit of practice to get it even and I eventually hired the applicator for the straight lines
I’ll see if I can find the photos
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I don’t think vinyl would stop the glass breaking if its hit, I’ve got a client with a big crack in a pane when someone hit it after we covered it. It held the glass together and it hasn’t fallen out yet. You can get ‘proper’ security film that stops glass flying everywhere if it breaks.
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There are various types of vinyl and window film available, what are they wanting it to do?
Advertise? Security?
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http://www.victorydesign.co.uk
Under suppliers of JAC Vinyl but do Chapter 8 kits too
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Sorry, see what you mean, edges are sealed on the kits. I’ve bought the ones from Victory but I’ve only seen them for the rear doors. Don’t know if the manufacture ‘in-house’ so might be able to do?
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If you know what the material is can’t you get it direct from Hexis UK?
Last year I repaired some Ambulance graphics using Reflexite which I gott direct as my usual suppliers didn’t stock it
http://www.reflexite.com/refl/emea/en/product- … a/items/59
didn’t need the edges sealing either!!
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A few years ago we helped with a Fosters Larger themed custom scooter. After it appeared at a show the owner was told by the brewery legal people to remove all trace as he hadn’t got permission to use the logos etc. The paintshop who’d done the work never heard a thing. I always cover myself with similar disclaimer to that already mentioned too.
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