[Brian Bollard]

As far as I know the only vinyls that will stay in deep recesses are 3M 480CV3 and Avery 1105.
We use 1105, heat away from the recess and never have issues.

[Brian Bollard]

A bit late sorry but this might help future sufferers.
Go to Configure printer>Device>Configure Port>Print to file.
Might be an idea to write down the existing settings for when you change it back.

[Brian Bollard]

Clean the contacts on the cartridge.
Try another cart.
If it is a dodgy cart HP should replace it.

[Brian Bollard]

I just bought one a couple of weeks ago – they had a discount offer here so I took advantage of that.
We already had 2 x 25500s and the 360 seems to have most of the issues fixed.
The 360 has an onboard i1 so you create custom profiles in about 30 minutes.
It’s faster – startup and printing.
The takeup reel is industrial quality now unlike the older flimsy version.
It can run vinyl at 6 and 8 pass whereas the older ones were only good at 10 pass.
It doesn’t heat up the media as much as the older versions so should be able to print on things that couldn’t cope before.
I’m still experimenting with media so don’t know exactly what works well yet.
I haven’t been able to get an uncoated paper to print well for some reason.. the 25500s print on that kind of cheap paper well so it’s a good thing I kept my older printers.

[Brian Bollard]

We use Autoglym Multiwash TFR on new vehicles.

quote :

AUTOGLYM POWERMAX III 5LT

Autoglym PowerMax 3 is a cleaner designed for copolymer coating (a coating applied to new vehicles to help keep clean but inhibit vinyls adhering to them) removal off new vehicles like the Mercedes Vito vans to ensure perfect surface preparation for vehicle wrapping. It comes in 5LT bottles.

Not sure where you can get it in the UK.

[Brian Bollard]

I know Bob. If they weren’t good mates I’d tell them to go Google something and leave me alone.
Just thought someone else might have needed to do this and found a good product.

[Brian Bollard]

Try giving your cutlines no outline and a solid black fill.
That seems to avoid some double cuts.

[Brian Bollard]

That’s the version I’m on too John.
To be honest I hardly use any of the functions in Winplot.
I set the job up in Illustrator, send to Winplot and just check for double cuts & roll size then cut.

[Brian Bollard]

Illustrator mate.
Open the file, check cutpaths and send to Winplot.
If it’s a print/cut job, set cutpaths on a separate layer, add opos marks then print and cut.
It’s very reliable and we’ve run print/cut jobs 3 or 4 metres long with no issue.

[Brian Bollard]

We used to use an old version of Sign Wizard which I did like however it stopped working in later versions of Windows.
I gave Winplot a go since it was free with our Summa D160R and haven’t looked back.
Illustrator skills are useful too.
It is far more reliable for print/cut jobs than Onyx Cut Server too.

[Brian Bollard]

Here’s another genius – this pub is our local:

quote :

Patron with a pool cue foils pub robbery
January 4, 2010 – 10:07AM

An armed crook who tried to rob a pub in Sydney’s south fled empty-handed on a bicycle when an angry patron attacked him with pool cue.

Police say the would-be robber got snookered at an hotel in Mitchell Road, Alexandria, about 7pm (AEDT) on Sunday.

As he started to fill a cloth bag with cash, a patron grabbed the pool cue and bashed him over the head with it.

The would-be robber, carrying a firearm and wearing a balaclava, ran out of the pub, jumped on the bike and disappeared.

[Brian Bollard]

Run them till the printer tells you to replace them, or when you notice print quality suffering and you can’t recover them by cleaning the contacts/doing a printhead recover. I get 4 litres out of some and barely one out of others. Average around 2 litres of ink per head I guess.

[Brian Bollard]

This is a common problem I have never been able to work out a solution to.
There always needs to be a bit of fudging to line up panels.

[Brian Bollard]

That’s a shame Mike, that’s a nice classic bike.
He should count himself lucky he can still walk.

I have kids but nothing has happened like this yet touch wood.

Forget about buying him a scooter. How about he works part time to repair your bike first, then buys himself whatever model scooter he likes.

Sounds like your wife needs to leave her social worker attitude at work and back you up too.

[Brian Bollard]

My work uniform.

[Brian Bollard]

Hey Neil. I get run out of town if I try and pretend to be strongbad here don’t I?

[Brian Bollard]

Thanks Shane I’ll do that.

[Brian Bollard]

quote Shane Drew:

James, I changed my Roland to TechINK bulk systems many years ago, and my second machine was changed over at delivery.

It has a lot to do with the pigments. Techink are an OEM manufacturer for Mutoh I think, so their ink would be OK.

Dave is right to a degree. Some inks will damage heads faster because being a bit course, the pigments act like sandpaper. The more course the pigment, the more damage over time. The more course the pigment, the lower the quality, the cheaper the product.

I’ve been thru 3 heads in nearly 5 years using TechINK, which I think is excellent. The ink is 50% the cost of Rolands ink, but maintenance costs are lower, from my own experience.

Unfortunately, your reasoning that ink manufacturers wouldn’t sell duff ink is not true. They know that some buy purely on price, so they target that market.

I know one sign shop in America that used a well known ink and went through 9 heads. He saw a post from me stating I’d been through 3 over the same period. He decided to try my inks, and eventually changed to TechINK and has never looked back.

Thing is, the other ink was way cheaper than TechINK, but over the years, replacing all those heads made the savings on ink worse than what I was spending over the same period.

Hope that helps mate.

Who do you get TechInk off in Oz, mate?