[Radu T]

I am also in need of a maintenance manual for JV3. If anyone can help, it would be most appreciated.
Thanx.

[Radu T]

Happened to me several times also on the latest Flexi. Try saving (exporting) Your work as an .eps file (just in case if You have cut paths etc) and restart Your software.
I think the software compresses the images every time it saves. Might something related to failing compressing the images.

[Radu T]

Try this link http://www.sharpbyte.com/
I don’t know if it helps, but he software is thought to send large pictures from photographers to publishers etc.

[Radu T]

I sure hope You are printing with the media clamps on, as depending on the banner type, the lints on the margin fine scratch the heads resulting in the formation of small ink drops.
A broken damper (that takes false air) could also be a cause, but normally ink spraying and ink drop-outs are the phenomena for this one.

Also please note that the SP540 has some grounding problems, so electrostatic charge forms quite easy.

[Radu T]

Had the JetBest Eco ink for some time in a Spitfire. It performed very well, very strong colors. One of the best Eco inks I have encountered. If an ink runs well in a Spitfire, it will run exceptional in other printers.
After some month, I got deflecting nozzles on some heads. But I’m not really sure if it was the ink, as I had also a head crash meanwhile.
I recommend this ink. Price /quality – very good.

[Radu T]

Great! Just bought myself a slim backlit cassette for profiling purposes and decoration.
So I guess the second purpose still works.
Anyway, I will make some measurements with the iO and see what happens.

[Radu T]

Tried yesterday also the PhotoPrint 5 and made a profile with it’s internal profile generator (normally it does not support OrGr for SJ Pro II 645, but the Asbru driver allows it and I own an Asbru ). Everything was peachy until I finished the profile. After that I got "RIP error" when trying to rip any file. I’m so doomed.
The ink order, the Wasatch was referring to, was actually the cassette order from the back and not the actual head/color order.
Still I am stuck. If anybody knows something about exactly which patches need to be generated from Profile Maker or Monaco Profiler and what is to be done so they will be correctly printed by the RIP, I would appreciate it.

[Radu T]

I think I know where the problem is. I always generated from Monaco Profiler the 6 color patches. Now when I save them in tiff format, it converts them to CMYK and changes the colors. When I save them in DCS format, it’s a Multichannel color format, which will not be recognized by Wasatch.
Generating CMYK patches, does not make any sense to me.
Anybody ideas?

[Radu T]

Thanks anyway Shane.
I would really like to know the ink order in the Test Print of a Roland printer. And second, if You could look in ColoRIP (in Wasatch You can do that) in the Properties Tab of a profile to check the Ink Set ink order (Head1 – Cyan etc.)
Thanks in advance.

[Radu T]

That’s an idea, but as far as I know, the ColoRIP does not support the SJ-645 EX printer. Only the 640.
Anyway I was trying this time the Wasatch SoftRIP 6.1, which is more or less the same.
Of course there was no predefined ink-set for Or&Gr, so I had to make a new one. I had some problems with the head order when making the new ink set. Finally got it working, but again when I print out the ICC patches, the colors are way off. So I thought there might be a slight chance that I inverse Orange with Green colors.

[Radu T]

I am trying again Orange and Green profiling. Just to make sure, can anybody tell me the ink order in the Test Print with CMYKOG? Mine is CMYKGrOr. Yhanks

[Radu T]

It has to do with the ICC profile. Try turning off the output profile and You will see clear Yellow.
You can also play with the rendering intent from perceptual to colorimetric or saturation. In some cases it will help.
But new profiles are needed.
Regarding ink – I think the color densities are too low in InkTech, so printing in high speeds makes profiling quite hard and in some cases impossible to get nice saturated colors.

[Radu T]

I don’t think that deflecting heads means something went wrong with the piezo. I have seen deflecting heads that by some reasons (beyond my comprehension) recovered themselves. I myself, had around 8 deflecting heads that I changed. The last 2 I didn’t want to exchange anymore. After printing a huge mesh with large fixed dot and suddenly the heads looked like new.
Regarding room temperature, I think it depends on the printer. I don’t know Seiko, but I have a Spitfire and it is extremely sensitive to temperature and humidity and I had a lot of problems with it. Now I keep my room temperature between 20-23 C and 40-50 relative humidity.
Deflecting usually happens when changing ink type.

[Radu T]

My only main concern is the scratch resistance for outdoor prints. I have printed on an exhibition with Agfa ink on a Roland VersaCamm and the colors were impressive. But it is more to Eco than to Solvent.
So what about scratch resistance? Customer satisfied?

[Radu T]

Maybe You should take a look at the OCE Arizona 250 GT. From the specs it should be the best UV printer.

[Radu T]

1. You should put Your Color Management in order. Decide what profiles You like to work in Photoshop, Corel etc.
I would suggest always save Your files with embedded profile and turn the feature on in Versaworks.
If You don’t have that, make sure that the working profile in Photoshop matches the input profile from VersaWorks. If the input profile does not match the file You wnat to print, Your ICC a profile has no value.
2. For raster images I would go with "perceptual" and for vectors with Relative Colorimetric, Absolute Colorimetric or Tone Curve, depending on the types of jobs You are doing.
3. Another thing that could influence Your colors is for what viewing light the profile was made.
Be careful with changing ink limits, as the profile have pyramidal structure and changing anything at the bottom will affect the top, which is the ICC profile.

[Radu T]

No problem Usman. Actually I have a Spitfire, but it’s not so different.

[Radu T]

Q1: I would go through the panel.
Q3: Go to the parameter menu / parameter update and enter the head ID for the head You changed. This will make the corrections for the driving voltage of the head.
There is also head voltage compensations value that You can change, but that is only done when having problems with 360×360 dpi, though I can’t imagine why somebody would use that resolution.
Q2: You can change as many heads as You want. Just keep in mind that when filling ink 1 pump means 2 heads. So You will loose a lot of ink if You change one after the other, doing every time the fill ink.
You can override the filling and do the filling manually with a syringe (that’s how I do it. And if I am not mistaken You have to flush the heads first with cleaning (as I don’t know if You go with the original ink and there might some rests from it in the head, also I don’t know if the heads are Mutoh heads or not)

Anyway I would recommend that You get some qualified technician to do the head change.

[Radu T]

I am doing the profiling myself. It seems that Onyx has some issues or I am doing something wrong. Anyway I tried a lot of settings and ways. It still looks bad. I don’t have the Wasatch, because i would surely try it. The PhotoPrint does not recognize the Xrite Pulse (DTP20) that I have for profiling, so I am I’m getting crazy. The Onyx guys are sending one email pro day, which does not help either. I have a new printer and I’m not able to print something useful. Luckily I still have a Spitfire 65, but that one gives me headaches from time to time.
Tomorrow i convert to Lc and Lm and I’m waiting then until I got a Wasatch or I have more information regarding the CMYKOG profiling.
What are You using as an ICC profile generator?

[Radu T]

Just bought an Asbru 645 (Roland Soljet Pro II modified). I’m using also TechInk. The only RIP that I have that supports CMYKOG is Onyx. For 2 days now I’m trying to make a usable profile without success. Everything seems fine until I print my ICC patches (generated from Monaco Profiler). The patches look awfully; everything is greenish.
Getting desperate here. I think I will switch to Lc and Lm.

If somebody has any experience with profiling in Onyx Postershop, I appreciate any help.

[Radu T]

I have an Asbru Pro 645. It’s really good!