Robert Neill
Forum Replies Created
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Thanks Ewan
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Anybody ??
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Cheers guys. I have now ordered a sheet of glass for the top [emoji106]
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Ye that’s pretty neat idea Hugh. I will prob give that a go [emoji106]
Thanks
Robert -
Thanks Peter and Martin…. I can’t get your photo to open on my phone. Will have to try from my pc when I get home.
I was also wondering what kind of material I should use on my table for cutting on ? It’s a big table and I had read up about people saying to use a Lino as that works well… So on that basis I was thinking that I could maybe use the vinyl that gets laid on the bus floors. As I work in a car and commercial bodyshop. So I have that stuff to hand. Do you think that would work ok ?
Thanks
Robert
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I managed to get it working using a serial cable. Although the cutter doesn’t seem up to much. Will keep my eye out for another Wee cutter I think.
Thanks
Robert
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I have and i have also registered, but when i goto the drivers page, i click on what i need and nothing happens…. I have tried different browsers for opening page and still nothing
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Fantastic Chris…. Thank You
Robert
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It’s a direct USB connection he is using. Or was using as he has now returned it to the chap he bought it from and luckily got all his money back. So lesson learned I think.
Thanks for all your suggestions guys….I appreciate it
Robert
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Sorry also its Flexi 10 he is using.
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Ye as I am still doubtful that it is a cutter issue as why would the likes of Grafityp sell such cutter if they could only cut wee small things, that doesn’t make sense to me.
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Cool thanks George, I will say to my brother and get him to return it.
I have a Graphtec myself so I am ok lol
Cheers
Robert -
Hi George…. Its a Sable SB60 with 500kb of memory, but it says that it can cut 3m tracked ?
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USB connection
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Thanks for the reply Robert.
But not sure it’s that. He says that’s it will cut something long as long as it’s just maybe a simple silhouette or some text but as soon as he tries to do something with more detail then that’s when it stops half way
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Which program you using Micheal….? I know that in Flexi it has an overcut option so the blade runs over a wee tad to make sure the cut is complete.
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Ah cool.
Thanks Vic
Robert.
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Hi Vic.
So by doing that the settings on the cutter itself then override the setting in flexi. Is that what you mean?
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Excellent…. cheers Ewan, this issue has been bugging my a*s for a while now.
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It has just dawned on me…. I bet my machine at home is set to 50 speed on flexi and this is why it is over riding any setting that I enter on the machine itself…mmmm
I shall have to check that once I get home today.
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Ok….so you would just go into that screen shown and change the speed and save it ye ? and you also think that maybe I should untick the FD.
Regards
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Is it this page…? And if so what is the FD that is ticked ?
Thanks
Robert
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Hi Ewan… could you add a snapshot of the screen, so that I know that I am in the right screen, rather than messing with stuff I don’t have to.
Thanks
Robert
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Oh really…. Thanks very much Ewan, I shall go and check this out.
Thanks Again
Robert
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Ye flexisign 10. So how do I do that then?
Thanks
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Hi Gil….just trying this out, could you explain your second idea please, the one about the line, i dont quiet get that one.
Regards
Robert
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Ah right ye i think i get what your saying…. great ideas
Thank you Gil
Much appreciated
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Hi Kev…. ye it will just cut the lettering without weed border on, but i want the letters positioned in the centre of the vinyl, so thats the issue.
Cheers
Robert -
Ye. Polyester is more sportswear then. And no I don’t have a solvent printer.
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Ye know. There is one thing that keeps niggling at the back of my mind regarding sublimation printing onto clothing.
I have been reading a lot and from what I have read it seems that the sub ink bonds to polyester and not cotton, now if this is the case then that’s what concerns me as surely 99% of t shirts etc are cotton….are they not?
Is this the case guys?
Cheers
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LOL. Ok got it Hugh.
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So they last a while then. I am tempted to put in the gel Inks as it gonna take me while to get funds for the sub cartridges, can I use the gel then change to sub Inks
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Oh really. So your still on your original set, I guess I can’t complain at that then. It will have to sit in the box then until I get some funds together to get the sub cartridges.
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Waw they are expensive cartridges 🙁
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Magic…. cheers guys
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Thanks Jamie…. that’s kind of what I was asking ye
So best place to get sub inks ?
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Ye I have just ordered the printer, so that’s what I am saying, should I not install the gel Inks just yet?
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I ordered the ricoh printer today but it will be coming with the standard gel cartridges, should have it tomorrow. So you saying don’t set it up with the gel Inks?
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Ye I am just using regular ink from my inkjet paper and ye I believe it does leave the top coat of the paper, so what paper should I use for the ricoh printer and can I use the gel ink that it comes with
Thanks
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Hi Colin….see your gel ink printers, do you just use the gel ink that is for it or have you changed it to a sublimation ink ?
Thanks
Robert -
Could you also advise which paper I should use to print onto, because at the moment I use inkjet paper, and I see my supplier only sells inkjet & laser transfer paper.
Regards
Robert -
Yes that sounds the same as what I do at the moment, for instance the inkjet that I use for light garments gets printed onto the transfer paper and pressed then the paper removed. Leaving the ink print on the garment. So in what way is that different from using the inkjet to the sublimation…. I am still not getting it..Sorry.
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Does anyone also know…. with sublimation printing it is done by printing onto transfer paper and then heat pressed onto the item, whether it be a t shirt or whatever. But my question is… at the moment I use my inkjet printer to print onto transfer paper to then be heated onto clothing. So what would be the difference from me using sublimation to my inkjet that I currently use ?
Thanks
Robert -
Thanks Hugh…. not sure that this answers what my query was though. I was more wondering that if I purchased this printer, would I be able to go straight ahead and set up and print with the inks it comes with, or would I have to first purchase the sawgrass inks ?
Thanks
Robert
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Hi Ashley… just looking at your post regarding the ricoh gel printer. I am looking to get one myself, you mention that you use yours for various items. Is this all using the standard gel cartridges that come with it, or did you have to use an alternative type ??
Thanks
Robert
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Hi…. Just a wee update to let you all ken that I have my problem resolved. I went back onto Graphtec and spoke to a very helpful chap called Tony, sent him some pics of what I needed and he managed to track one down for me.
So happy days, I am back in business again.
Thanks
Robert
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Hi Chris…. Ye I bought the machine second hand and there was evidence that the piece that comes up to go between the two legs to make the contact had been hitting the sides of the sensor, there was also tape round about it. So someone had been in there previously, so it was temperamental since then until now as it has just stopped working all together now. I dropped it into a wee electronic company yesterday and he confirmed it was goosed but couldn’t help me with it.
Is there anyone you can suggest that could fix it?
Regards
Robert -
Thanks. It’s like when the machine is on it says load media, so when you have put your paper in and pulled the arm up this sensor then recognises that the arm has went up so the load media message changes. But with this sensor being goosed my machine is stuck on load media. Rendering it useless.
Does that help?
Regards
Robert -
Thanks Martin, will keep that in mind, this never even crossed my mind about them using design elsewhere…
to gullable
Thanks
Robert
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Thanks Jean….ye it is just for them to print flyers etc… Don’t think they are to sure what they need, so maybe someone has advised them that its hi res they need. I do know them well as a friend, so I am sure they wont be upto anything. But point taken and I shall be cautious of this for future. Thanks for the advice.
Robert
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Colin….your a star.
Just tried the export feature and yes that works perfect… superb.
Thanks
Robert
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Thanks Jamie….appreciate it
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Fantastic…. Thank you so much Chris
Good Man
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The applying of the app paper is interesting. As I prob don’t pay as much attention now to the pressure etc that I use in initially applying it onto the vinyl. You could have poss cracked it there Robert.
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Another
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Do you think application tape could cause the bubbling ye…. It did cross my mind that I have had that roll of tape since day 1… Does it have a shelf life ?
As for the crease on the A. It’s def not a crease, must be a reflection from something. I have attached another pic that i have of it. Coming from an angle. Nothing on the A. I would take any creasing out if they occurred.
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I know Martin. Lol.
I really go between the materials, not to do with cost as they are all a muchness. It’s more because I work full time, decals is just something I do on the side at night etc. So if I need vinyl then it’s just where I can go and get it when I am available to. If you know what I mean.
Did you manage to zoom into the board and see the bubbling ??
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Infact people…. see if you zoom into my white property hygiene sign that I have done you will see the bubbling and how bad it is.
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Alright Robert, how you doing fella ?
Crease on a letter, crease, enlighten me lol
The board is the aluminium with the plastic centre, materials are various. There Is Ritrama, Oracal 651 & 751.
The last van I just did (pic attached), I used a new material to me anyway DeTape, It felt really nice and soft to use, especially when weeding. But again lots of bubbles. I did contemplate whether it may have been my application papers tackiness, so I even tried soaking it to remove it, which did make it remove easier but never helped regarding the bubbles.
Technique…. I do use a new technique which I learned recently on one of they wrapping courses, the instructor swore by it…. he was a bit of a bomber, but had his good points…LOL He looked identical to that wee Dec fella from TV.
Anyway that’s neither here nor there, I am scunnered with it as I like perfection and I wouldn’t be happy to accept the work.
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Ye def not dust, its bubbles.
Very frustrating
I will attach a pic of the signs, not that you can see the bubbles from the pic (hopefully), but it will show the kind of text etc….
Thanks
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Clothes…. Ye I don’t really use any particular type, poss could be that.
Why would the edge if a squeegee cause rash/bubbling ?
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Thanks Martin
Ye technique. Again I thought of this, and with me being more aware of its possibilty of happening, I tried using diff strokes etc to see if doing one way would be better than the other. The more I talk about it on here I am leaning towards it being in the cleaning process. It’s to many bubbles, more like a rash. So I am now wondering if the spray bottle I have the IPA in is possibly breaking down chemically and this is causing an issue.
So on that basis I think I will ditch what I have and start again with new stuff…
Does this sound like a good route to try ?
Cheers
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Sorry guys….. just got back in.
OK Temp….variable, so dont think that is the issue….. Squeegee, again i do have a few diff sorts and pretty much was trying them all to enliminate them. Wet or Dry, again I was trying both, even tried soaking the application paper to let that come off with less pull to see if that made a difference.
On the last job i done, I ended up lifting the decals bit by bit to re-lay, but although the bubbles would flatten a bit, I was still getting left with like the outer ring of the bubble underneath. Like a glue ring which would not flatten.
Only think that i have changed is the cleaning of the panels. I have been using isopropanol now, so whether this has anything to do with it I dont know.
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Thanks. John.
Ye I know about holding the buttons for change. But can the be set in diff ways, do you know ?
Thanks
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Oh really lol sorry
Ye the Flexi has a very good vectorzing wizard which I use a lot, infact its prob the most used feature.
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Thanks Rae…. Ye I did/ have downloaded that version trial. But the source that pointed me in the direction of Signlabs said to get v5 as all above had to much that aint required for what I do….design & cut, no print.
So that was the reason for that…
Is your preference Flexi then ?
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Cheers Guys 👍
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Thanks Ray. Ye I have since found out about the f buttons for zooming, just thought the mouse wheel would be easier. All that being said. The wheel mouse on flexi doesn’t zoom in and out, it moves you up and down the page. Not sure if this can be changed ??
And Jon to answer your question if why flexi to signlabs. Main reason is recommendations from a very respected source in the sign world.
Although I must say that I am still swinging towards flexi at the moment lol
Thanks
Robert -
Hi. It’s a 44" Jinka 1351. Not sure if it’s good or not. It’s my first cutter so it will do for the moment.
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Cheers Simon….. I think I know what you mean.
I dont use the 751 right enough, I have 651 & Ritrama O
Robert
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Wee update – Switched PC on tonight opened Flexisign and I am no longer getting the Vectorizing bar….so ? I am stumped, really stumped.
Another quick question…. Any advice for cutting small lettering without them all lifting etc…?
How far should my blade stick out the bottom of the holder ?
Thanks Chaps
Robert
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Scanvec ??
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Well I did do a fresh install which I thought would have reset the settings etc.
I am more thinking now if it could be a windows update or something that is now conflicting with my pc and the program. I did also do a system restore to as early as it would let me but that did not help.
My next move I think is to reinstall windows on my pc.
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No Other suggestions anyone ???
Thanks
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I am pressing cut/plot…as i have always done. Dont know whats changed.