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  • when applying dry do the bubbles go away after time?

    Posted by Richard Urquhart on October 22, 2002 at 8:03 pm

    hello all as you know im so new to this so go easy on me !
    i have read loads of you talk about dry application and wet i was just going to ask if you do trap air under your job will the bubbles come out in time i.e a week or so or is that it for good, only i had a mini roof union jack to do , vinyl from rover ready cut i put it on dry and it had lots of bubbles ,the car came back for more work the other day (3 weeks after doing job )and all the bubbles had gone . now i know it looks like i have just answered my own question but is this common

    Deleted User replied 21 years, 7 months ago 5 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • Robert Lambie

    October 22, 2002 at 8:25 pm

    Hi mate
    ill do what i can to explain. if i make no sense just say ill try again 😀

    Vinyl is slightly porous… I have found anyway…
    This is not uncommon for trapped air to be gone a few weeks later.
    However, I would not recommend you use that as an excuse every time it happens.
    Not saying you will. Just I have heard so many people laugh and say give it a couple of weeks…
    If it is very small bubble then yeh.. In time they go. Most of the time anyway. Some take longer than others though.
    If it happens and you say that to the customer he gives it a couple of weeks. But by the time the dirt and rain hits the van they normally forget about the odd bubble or ten…
    😆 If you get a bubble / bubbles then use a safety pin. Just put one single or a couple depending on sizes at the edge or the bubble. Then with your finger push the air slowly towards the hole. It will disappear no problem.
    If its more a blister than a bubble. Give it a few pinholes. Again only on the edge of one side and gently push the air towards the holes. Blisters being rushed. I.e. forcing the air out to quick can result in the vinyl creasing or stretching. This ends up looking worse than the bubble itself.

  • Richard Urquhart

    October 22, 2002 at 8:49 pm

    thanks mate ,im getting there i think i dont want to tell a customer ,oh it will be ok in a week or so.its like painting cars ,how many times have a heard the bloke down my yard say thats ok mate give the paint a week or so it will match rubbish if it aint right now it wont be in 2 weeks still like you say they never come back
    think on the bigger stuff i will keep to wet

  • Robert Lambie

    October 22, 2002 at 8:57 pm

    😆 i know what you mean mate! 😉

    as for the application you did… applying dry to this area of a vehicle is never ever easy. if a few bubble is all you got you did very well… 😉

    dojng a bit of both, wet sometimes and dry others is always good. if you do to much wet you will never do it dry. when starting out. try applying maybe small text dry untill you get a feel for it. when it comes to large text and panels do it wet… as time goes on you will tackle larger text, and eventually feel more confident when trying a panel.

  • Lee Attewell

    October 23, 2002 at 9:10 am

    Hey guys…The first lesson I got as a window tinter was…

    It’ll dry out in six to eight weeks…..

    Words to live by.

    It seems that you know the philosophy Rob. The great Aussie saying is “She’ll be right mate…No Worries”

    No seriously do your applications using the hinge method, practice and it’ll go well.

  • Martin Pearson

    October 23, 2002 at 11:13 pm

    If you are getting a lot of bubbles it might be because you are trying to go to quickly and not applying enough pressure, as has been said above the hinge method works really well and allows you to hold the graphic off the substrate with one hand and squeegee with the other. Spandex sell a tool for popping the bubbles but I think it is a bit expensive. I use a pin tapped on a bit of dowel, works just as well as the spandex tool and is a little cheaper !!!!!

  • Deleted User

    Deleted User
    October 27, 2002 at 9:54 am

    I won’t go into things as I reckon Robert has probably covered dry application in other posts.
    His advice is pretty sound here also.
    However, I think most if not all use the wet app when starting out, I know I did.
    If doing it wet gets it on & on proper I mean…. then job done!
    There’s no point fixing what aint broke. At the end of the day its what works for you!
    I have to say though. I would only advise this on flat panels and gradual contoured vehicles.
    Deep recessed areas, vehicle wrapping etc are out!
    Vehicle wrap is far too expensive to have to replace a panel that is popping out.
    Digital printed ones I mean.

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