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  • what vinyl can i use and what way will i apply it?

    Posted by Harry Cleary on February 27, 2007 at 10:17 pm

    Having very little experience applying vinyl Im wondering do any of you see major problems applying the yellow stripe or have any tips. What vinyl would you use and would you use heat etc? Just a bit nervous about it. I posted the pic of the van so you could see the contours better. Thanks for your help, once again.


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    duncan24 replied 17 years, 2 months ago 9 Members · 22 Replies
  • 22 Replies
  • Peter Mindham

    Member
    February 27, 2007 at 10:19 pm

    Harry
    what are you drinking. Pour me one so I know what you are talking about 😮

    Peter

  • Harry Cleary

    Member
    February 27, 2007 at 10:21 pm

    whoops, its the lack of drink Peter, believe me. When does Lent end (hot)

  • Lynn Normington

    Member
    February 27, 2007 at 10:31 pm

    Hi Harry the only problems I can see are the door Handel, key lock and rubbing strip you can cut round the handle and lock, but I think you may find you can’t go over the rubbing strip, they are sometimes treated with stuff that doesn’t like vinyl, but you can always fit up to it and chop it out, it won’t really detract from the overall view, another thing I would say is I really don’t like the text above the stripe on a slant it would look better straight. you may need a bit of heat where it goes over the ridges on the door. You may have to change your thinking for the other side 🙄

    Lynn

  • Harry Cleary

    Member
    February 27, 2007 at 10:40 pm

    Thanks for that Lynn, I see what you mean about the slanting text, I have tried to talk the customer out of it. It looks much better on the other side as it goes up with the slant, it was the side I showed him first, which was a mistake 🙁

  • Shane Drew

    Member
    February 28, 2007 at 10:36 am

    Harry, I’d use a cast material to be safe. Otherwise, I don’t think it will be as hard as it looks initially.

    Be conscious that if you start from one end, with little experience, you may find yourself ‘dipping in the centre. I’d start from the centre and move back to the ends, if that makes any sense. Lowers the chance of a mistake.

    Cheers

  • Harry Cleary

    Member
    February 28, 2007 at 11:11 am

    Thanks Shane, just ordering cast now, I’d value your opinion on the slanted text that Lynn mentioned, is it gonna look awful or is there a way to make it look better?

  • Shane Drew

    Member
    February 28, 2007 at 11:31 am

    the only thing I’d change is to have the text ‘low overheads etc’ on the one line. It will sit above the yellow nicely, and being in one line, will not seem so out of place as it does now. The higher the lines sit away from the yellow, the more obviously ‘wrong’ it becomes. I guess its a gravity thing

    Other than that, I can’t see any other way around it to me honest. 😛

  • Shane Drew

    Member
    February 28, 2007 at 11:34 am

    Just thinking Harry. Are you sure the white is going to stand out on the yellow? Perhaps its a melon yellow or something? or are you doing a fine black key line around the white?

    Sorry mate, just thinking ‘out loud’ 😳

  • Harry Cleary

    Member
    February 28, 2007 at 11:49 am

    Hi Shane, I think you have cracked it with the text on one line! thanks mate, I feel much better about it now, The white was always gonna have a red outline, just forgot to include it.

    sorry dont know what happened the colour


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  • Shane Drew

    Member
    February 28, 2007 at 9:17 pm

    Thanks mate, I think that looks much better too.

  • Lynn Normington

    Member
    February 28, 2007 at 9:37 pm

    yes Harry that looks a lot better as for vinyl I would probably use oracle 751 or mac 9800 there are no serious groove’s so should be fine, sorry see you have just ordered cast 😳 that will be fine as well.

    Lynn

  • Richard Urquhart

    Member
    February 28, 2007 at 9:48 pm

    i did a connect a while back the contours are easy and not sharp mactac 9800 will be fine
    remove the door lock and handle and replace after fitting allow 1 hour per door card or a little more if you have not removed many door trims, fitting looks a million dollars after replacing

  • Peter Normington

    Member
    February 28, 2007 at 9:55 pm
    quote Richard Urquhart:

    i did a connect a while back the contours are easy and not sharp mactac 9800 will be fine
    remove the door lock and handle and replace after fitting allow 1 hour per door card or a little more if you have not removed many door trims, fitting looks a million dollars after replacing

    Removing the handle is easier said than done, takes a bit of experience, and more than a bit of patience,, Rich do you know a quick way to get to the hidden screw?

    Not a job for the uninitiated

    peter

  • Martin Pearson

    Member
    February 28, 2007 at 9:59 pm

    Doesn’t look to bad Harry, but I would not cut the yellow band off with a straight edge as you have by the door, I would just continue it all the way to the wheel arch. I would also run it right across the back as well so it went up one side of the van, across the back and down the other side. Its not a difficult job with a van like this as its mostly flat. still think the text above the yellow band would look better on two lines and straight as Lynn suggested but everyone has their own opinions on these things. As Lynn has said the bump strips can sometimes be awkward to get the vinyl to stick to but if its cleaned properly and you apply a bit of heat once it is fitted it should be OK, I normally cut the vinyl where the bump strip is fitted at the top and the bottom that way if it does start to come off the bump strip then the rest is still perfect. The bottom of the doors is almost sort of like a corrugated finish rather than recesses and I would be inclined to fit the vinyl to the shape of these rather than fit across the high points and then try to stretch the vinyl into place.

  • Richard Urquhart

    Member
    February 28, 2007 at 10:04 pm

    Peter as you say this is not an easy job and the later vans are getting harder to strip due to the protection around the lock barrel and top of handle, there is no fast way but removing the window runner Chanel is a big help as for the rear door that’s just as hard
    the days of pulling just a horse shoe clip from behind are gone forever. I had major probs with a bonded one the other day, in the end i had no choice for refitting the trim and not taking wasting more time, years stripping and fitting ready for new door skins has played a big part

    Rich

  • Harry Cleary

    Member
    February 28, 2007 at 11:01 pm

    this job is booked in for friday and I think I will cut around the handles as I have never taken one off a new van. Thanks for all the advice, customer is chuffed so far and he has a nice juicy fleet, so fingers crossed! He was serverly reprimanded by Scania’s lawyers and so I have to fit another line of text in under the yellow band, (S/H, Altenative New Scania Parts) which is really annoying. The joys of being a signwriter!

    Btw, would the manual show how to remove the handles?

  • Shane Drew

    Member
    February 28, 2007 at 11:54 pm

    Harry, Scania are really into protecting their logo.

    I had a client here that sell EuroParts (cloned stuff), and mentions Scania on his sign. Scania hit him with a legal letter because the font I’d used was too close to the logo. Made him change it to a different font altogether to avoid being sued.

    Not sure how they can do that as it was a legit font anyway. He didn’t have the money to fight it unfortunately, so I had to redo the artwork and refit new signs. Then he hit me up for freebies because ‘it was my fault’ 👿 Not worth arguing about. Worse thing is, I lost him as a client over it.

    …. I love my job some days 😥

  • Harry Cleary

    Member
    March 1, 2007 at 12:01 am

    Isnt it amazing how they can be bothered, my customer reckons they came down hard on him because of the ‘brilliant logo’ (his words) I designed for him. Its the ‘home for the bewildered’ for us signwriters methinks Shane!!!

  • Graeme Harrold

    Member
    March 1, 2007 at 9:28 am
    quote Harry Cleary:

    Btw, would the manual show how to remove the handles?

    The only manual that would tell you is either Workshop manual for the vehicle or a Haynes manual. Fixtures and fitting will not be covered in the operators hand book.

    Failing that try a google search as there are plenty of DIY mechanics web sites out there.

  • Harry Cleary

    Member
    March 1, 2007 at 10:49 am

    thanks Graeme, customer, who is a mechanic, is going to take them off.

  • Graeme Harrold

    Member
    March 1, 2007 at 11:10 am

    Always the best way, even with the screws out some lock mechanism’s can be a total pain to remove esp on trucks, and the last thing you want is a pile of bits in your hands when the mechanism eventually comes off the vehicle.

  • duncan24

    Member
    March 8, 2007 at 5:33 pm

    transit connects are brilliant for wrapping. You could take the handle off, or slightly move the stripe back a little and cut the handle out!

    just take your time, start at the middle and work outwards

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