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  • What paint do you use to signwrite with?

    Posted by M Brown on August 14, 2006 at 8:03 am

    Hi All,

    What paint do you use to sign write with. Got a little job that the customer wants the lettering painted on instead of vinyl… any help would be great.

    Dont want to do the job, just for it to flake of later on..

    Thanks in advance

    From
    Mark

    Brian Little replied 17 years, 8 months ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Dave Harrison

    Member
    August 14, 2006 at 9:03 am

    One Shot enamel gives good results, available from Cherwell Sign Supplies.

  • Jill Marie Welsh

    Member
    August 14, 2006 at 11:03 am

    When I was in the UK I also saw a paint called Keep’s. And maybe Kemp’s.
    Wright’s of Lymm is now making their own lettering enamel, which is comparable to 1-Shot.
    I use either 1-Shot or Ronan lettering enamel.
    I thin it very sparingly with turpentine, not paint thinner.
    But I usually just use it straight from the can.
    Some people add hardener (1-Shot brand) to their lettering enamel but I never have in 20 years.
    It’s good stuff.
    The brushes you use are equally important.
    Handover’s or Wright’s will have those as well.
    love….Jill

  • Duncan Wilkie

    Member
    August 21, 2006 at 2:39 am

    I’ve used 1shot since 1970. I works well for me.
    However, if you’ve never done any signwriting, I wouldn’t recommend practising on a customer’s work. Saleable signwriting skill takes a long time to learn.
    You can "Cheat" by cutting the layout in paint mask and then brushing the paint on. You still are giving him a genuine painted sign. If you do this method you can scuff the lettering area with scotchbrite after you apply the mask. This will ensure maximum adhesion. Also, if you go this route, either remove the mask before the paint tacks up to much…this allows the paint build up around the mask to flow out a bit or wait ’til the paint is thoroughly dried the next day or more and carefully remove the mask. If you try it when the paint is partially cured, you can sometimes lift the edges of the letters, as the thicker paint at the edges is still uncured. Small text is very difficult to de-mask while still wet.
    Either way test, it first before you try it on a customers job.
    As Jill said, thin sparingly with turps and use good, suitable brushes. If you’re masking and painting, the quality of the brush is not so critical…you can even use a small roller.
    Hardener is un-necessary in most cases unless you are clear coating with automotive paint…like airbrush murals on bikes and cars, etc.
    Hardener does toughen the paint and make it a little harder, however it contains isocyanates and should be used with great care and attention to instructions. I painted signs for 30 years with straight one shot before they had hardners, and with great success. So unless you’re coating over it with eurothanes and other catalyzed paints, don’t bother. In my opinion.
    Good luck and I hope you try some "freehand" lettering…it’s very gratifying to be a Signwriter, but like anything worthwhile, it requires a lot of practise.

  • Brian Little

    Member
    August 21, 2006 at 12:47 pm

    yep as others have said …1shot is the way to go .Ive also used humbrel as well if ive been struggling for colours …best of luck

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