Temperature advice on oracal black with air release

[Peter Normington]

Jan
Which series of oracle is air release? I recently used the 970, but although it has an option of ar, it is not yet stocked in the UK apparently

Peter

[Jan Storgaard]

Hi Peter, im not in the shop now and i cant remember, but i think its the 970 series. Ill check tomorrow. Thx.
Jan

[Peter Normington]

if it is 970, I dont think there is reccomended temp, it is a car wrap and is not designed for recesses, but like most vinyls the heat needs to be a minimum, rather than an excact figure, go for 90c and you should be ok, no guarantees though

Peter

[Jan Storgaard]

Thx, Peter. Thats what i did. 90 C° but it dosent smell good, tho’ ;o)

Jan

[Shane Drew]

From Oracal Australia site: Hope it helps

Oracal 970ra – Any deep-drawn areas, borders and edges should be carefully reheated with a hot-air gun after coating in order to quickly activate the adhesive substance. It is recommended to briefly reheat the film in deep corrugations to a temperature of ca 120°C. In this way the vinyl becomes a stable structure.

This temperature will not damage the adhesive substance and the car’s paintwork.

Specialized shops offer infrared thermometers which allow exact measuring of the underground temperature. Move hot-air gun constantly to avoid damage to the film.

Finally the film should be pressed into the corrugations again.

When the re-assembling is finished, reheat all borders, edges and corrugations again with a hot-air gun to 150°C.

Remaining tiny air bubbles under the film will diffuse through the film within a few days depending on the ambient temperature.

Only larger bubbles should be slightly punctured by a pin or pointed scalpel and the air should be squeezed out using a squeegee.

[Jan Storgaard]

Nice post Shane, 120 C° is HOT!, im using a laser and 90° is achievable with a heatgun, but 120 sounds way to much…?

Does anybody else have a comment on this?

[Shane Drew]

Jan, 120 deg is fine. I’ve use it at that temp many times.

Just let it cool before you touch it as it goes rather soft. I use a 3M wheel to push it down though, so there is no chance of it being creased.

The final 150 deg is a bit scary, if you have any small bubbles they will burn, so make sure it OK before you do the final heat run.

[Jan Storgaard]

What type is your heatgun, Shane ???

[Shane Drew]

bosch – goes to 200 deg I think

[Jan Storgaard]

rite, tried heating 180 °C today. Worked ok.
BUT what if the surface (bumber ) is painted plastic ?

Jan

[Shane Drew]

I doubt it would damage it Jan, Don’t let the heat concentrate on one area too long, but I’d be surprised if it did damage anyway. The heat process to make a plastic bumper is much higher than the temps we use with our heat guns.

[Cameron Steer]

Hi All,

Shanes post is spot on although i always shy away from recommending rapid air for deep recesses , ill have a look at the Austrailian web site though , its for this reason we only keep the normal repositionable adhesive version but can get the rapid air from Germany quickly enough if needed.

Regards

[Shane Drew]

True Cameron, I’d advise against ra for deep areas too and its a point worth repeating, but I’ve used it with ‘normal’ areas and recesses reasonably well.