Stand off letters to stone wall advice

[Martin Pearson]

I have done it in pretty much the way you described David, have done both metal & acrylic letters, Aluminium letters had pins silver soldered to the back & on the acrylic ones I bonded Big Head fasteners to the back with Penloc.

Used a paper template taped to a sheet of hardboard but foamex might be better depending on how tight your curve is.
Just used a chemical fixing to cement the pins into the wall. Think that came from Eurobond the same as the Penloc but not 100% sure about that 😆 😆

[David Rogers]

Done it the same way too. The only issues come when you can’t see where a hole will go and its right on and edge, a very high spot or lost in a recess. Be prepared to not get every one the way you want.

As a tip – bending the rods VERY slightly to come in or splay out will help them hold in position whilst the adhesive sets by grabbing the sides of the holes.
i normally use evo-stick serious stuff.

Dave

[Steve Morgan]

I done almost exactly the same as Martin describes, stainless with M5 studding silver soldered to the reverse, and letters I made myself with Bigheads bonded with Penlock adhesive and M5 studding. I nearly always used 3mm foam PVC sheet as a template.
Probably the biggest difficulties to overcome are the positions of the studs – I always seemed to get a couple holes that needed to be right down the edge of a brick or stone and the other was holding the template on the wall securely for long enough to mark the holes.
I had one job with stainless letters on a curved interior wall where I got my local sheet metal fabricators to roll the letters to match the curve on the wall. It took a lot of work getting the measurements correct and the fitting was tricky but the finished job looked very nice.

[Vince Francis]

I would personally be careful about slightly bending the studs on stainless letters, it’s best to put the studs in as straight as possible as you don’t want the fixings to be under tension. Bend them too far and there is a good chance the fixings couldl fail at some point. I have lost count the number of repair jobs over the years I have done through fixings failing

[Steve Morgan]

Vince, we rolled the letters and that was done before any Bigheads were bonded. The tricky part was drilling accurate holes, on that job the wall had been finished with a very expensive decorative plaster finish so no extra holes :smiles:

[Vince Francis]

Hi Steve, I was referring to the post above yours. Thankfully I don’t have the headache of fixing 🙂

[Martin Pearson]

quote Vince Francis:

Hi Steve, I was referring to the post above yours. Thankfully I don’t have the headache of fixing 🙂

Your missing out on all the fun Vince 😆 😆 😆 😆

[David Hammond]

Thanks guys, I knew it could be done, just need to go and do yet another site survey to check the sizes, as I think the letters may be too small.

[David Hammond]

The customer is looking for 40mm tall letters to stand off the wall, which I think will be too small, as there’s less margin for error, and will likely only get 2 studs on each letter.

I’m thinking perhaps having a rail maid with flat cut letters welded to those?

[Stuart Miller]

quote David Hammond:

The customer is looking for 40mm tall letters to stand off the wall, which I think will be too small, as there’s less margin for error, and will likely only get 2 studs on each letter.

I’m thinking perhaps having a rail maid with flat cut letters welded to those?

In my experience a company like Trade Letters will not cut letters smaller than 50mm and the narrowest stroke width of 5mm.

[Vince Francis]

In my experience a company like Trade Letters will not cut letters smaller than 50mm and the narrowest stroke width of 5mm

Really? Why is that?