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stainless steal
Hello
I’m after abit of knowledge. I had a large company e-mailing me today asking if a can engrave stainless steal for control panels or do i outsource it. I think they want to keep their contact local but would be happy if the work was out sourced as long as the work was of a good quality.
So what i want to know is what kind of files do you need etc. What makes a better job a router or an engraver? And what would the normal cost be? And Pitfalls to watch out for.
Thanks
Martin
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10 Replies
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Engraver, laser or acid etch then infilled with paint.
Any vector file, but EPS is probably the most universally accepted.
Pitfalls – getting it wrong!
Dave
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Hi, doing some of these at the moment, I got samples of lazer etch which worked out cheaper, but we and the client not happy with the final product, so in the end acid etch filled in with paint was the winner. If its inside then 304 stainless will do, if its exterior then i would go for 316. We supplied files in eps format, but i would ask who you are outsourcing too first what they want.
pitfalls -think about how you are going to get the stainless to adhere to the final surface, some stainless has oils on it that can effect adhesion, clean with alcohol first! If you job is lots of units you need to add that time onto the quote!
cheers
Dan
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acid etch: is it necessary so that the paint sticks on the metal?
is etching and painting done with masks out of specific cut vinyl?
I’m just curious about the process
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Hi Fabrice, sorry have no idea as we are outsourcing the job!
cheers
Dan
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I would recommend etch and infill, eps or ai files, make sure you are aware from start how it’s been fixed so holes can be laser cut from panel or speak to someone re fixings with VHB tape.
If you send a file to a supplier they will best advise you on the method/route to go down. Also advise depth of material required, most done are. 1.5mm as a guide but do get asked for 2mm and 3mm also.
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Perfect! It always look better on your company when you talk to a customer and sounds like you know what your talking about.
Thanks
Martin
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Control panels are often down in 0.9mm as well Martin – hope you manage to win the project.
Sam
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Martin each process has it good and bad point etching is probably the nicest finish on the stainless steel but it is limited to the size of plaque you can use most etching machines can only handle up yo 600mm wide , laser engraving uses a ceramic paste to bake on the graphic good for fine detail but can be scathed of with very heavy rubbing, mechanical engraving either on router on engraving machine is a slow process and you need to pay attention to tool wear especially on stainless but on a router bed you can engrave full sheets which I have done quite a few times both etching and engraving leave a Chanel where you apply paint to highlight the text or logo which is always better than laser marking
Again I could go on if you need mor help let me know been doing this for 15 years
Cheers dave -
Martin each process has it good and bad point etching is probably the nicest finish on the stainless steel but it is limited to the size of plaque you can use most etching machines can only handle up yo 600mm wide , laser engraving uses a ceramic paste to bake on the graphic good for fine detail but can be scathed of with very heavy rubbing, mechanical engraving either on router on engraving machine is a slow process and you need to pay attention to tool wear especially on stainless but on a router bed you can engrave full sheets which I have done quite a few times both etching and engraving leave a Chanel where you apply paint to highlight the text or logo which is always better than laser marking
Again I could go on if you need mor help let me know been doing this for 15 years
Sorry Should have said any vector file is fine best is A.I file as it is normally smaller file size compared to EPS try and stay away from autocad files like Dxf and Dwg as they can give headaches when importing
Cheers dave -
We used to acid etch stainless panels a bit.
It is quite straight forward.
You cut out the designs, using a decent cast vinyl – oracal 751 is good.
Reverse weed them.
Apply the vinyl. Use some heat to ensure it the edges are well adhered.
Wrap the back and the sides with offcuts of the same vinyl so it is all covered.
Place upside down in a bath of ferric chloride, (available from electronic suppliers) which works quite slowly on stainless.
The reason it is upside down is that the crud can fall out of the etched voids and doesnt interfere with further etching.
When etched deep enough, remove and wash with water. Leave to dry, with the vinyl still on. Then paint through vinyl, which acts as a mask.
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