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(sorry to bring this up again!) laminating!
hi everybody
i’ll cut straight to the chase!i keep being asked for digitally printed work for a range of applications (labels, vehicle graphics, signs etc.) so im looking to invest in a uniform cadet machine.
all i really need to know is do i need a laminator? and if so whats the laminator to go for and a vague idea on cost!
sorry to everyone thats really bored of this subject but i dont want to spend 10k and then find out i cant do the work i need to!
thanks in advance for any help
regards
alex -
3 Replies
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If you use Oracal products, a cold laminator will fit the bill. Talk to Adrian (signco) on these boards about an easy taper. I have one, and they are perfect for use with the matched oracal substrates.
Graphytip, I am told, needs to have the laminate heated before applying. There are some cheap laminators around, an australian brand called emseal is probably a good starting point.
Avery (here in OZ) don’t reccommend laminating their 1005 material if it is being applied to convex or complex curves. Instead they suggest the end product is sprayed with a waterbased laminate once the job is applied.
If you are using a full solvent machine, a laminator is less of an issue, but an eco solvent prin does require lamination if you want to get the best life out of the job.
I started with an eco sol unit, and upgraded to a solvent version within months, because I did not have a laminator. Now I have an easy taper, I have the best of both worlds.
I don’t laminate stickers or car magnets usually, but I alway laminate half or full wraps. You’ll find most customers would expect a few years out of a digital print, and supplying one unlaminated to a vehicle that may be washed with harsh chemicals, would be a bit risky.
Hope that helps
Shane
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quote dsi:If you use Oracal products, a cold laminator will fit the bill. Talk to Adrian (signco) on these boards about an easy taper. I have one, and they are perfect for use with the matched oracal substrates.Graphytip, I am told, needs to have the laminate heated before applying. There are some cheap laminators around, an australian brand called emseal is probably a good starting point.
Avery (here in OZ) don’t reccommend laminating their 1005 material if it is being applied to convex or complex curves. Instead they suggest the end product is sprayed with a waterbased laminate once the job is applied.
If you are using a full solvent machine, a laminator is less of an issue, but an eco solvent prin does require lamination if you want to get the best life out of the job.
I started with an eco sol unit, and upgraded to a solvent version within months, because I did not have a laminator. Now I have an easy taper, I have the best of both worlds.
I don’t laminate stickers or car magnets usually, but I alway laminate half or full wraps. You’ll find most customers would expect a few years out of a digital print, and supplying one unlaminated to a vehicle that may be washed with harsh chemicals, would be a bit risky.
Hope that helps
Shane
I’ve cold laminated on Graphityp coated vinyl. It’s been on our company vans for 6months or so and looks fab, fingers crossed :pray:
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Hi,
I use the Cadet and have not laminated any graphics yet. I have done quite a lot of vans and wagons with colour images and nearly 12 months on had no comebacks. I have not done any full wraps though so I can not comment on those.Cheers
Ian
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