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Rear bumper wrap help needed!
Hi all, after a bit of advice from the more experienced vehicle wrappers.
New to the wrapping thing and thought i’d start practicing on my own cars. Now i’m doing my 350Z at the moment, i’m very happy with the outcome of it at the moment so far and am enjoying doing it but am having a lot of trouble with the rear bumper. What i’d like to know is how would you tackle the rear bumper, the numberplate recess is VERY deep, i’ve tried wrapping round the bumper and gently heating and working the vinyl in, also tried loosly going round but i’m still finding the vinyl coming away from the corners of the recess. Would it be an idea of starting the bumper from the centre of the deep recess and working outwards all round? I’m using the carbon 3M di noc vinyl so kind of a bad move on my part using expensive vinyl to start with!
Below is a pic of the recess in question:
Any advice would be great.
Thanks
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34 Replies
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The number plate recess will need to be infilled first as it is far too deep for that material and probably most with out seeing it.
After you have done that you will need two for the next part, maybe hinge half the bumper first what ever you feel comfortable doing.
Is this 3m carbon you are using?
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Hi Chris, thanks for that, had a feeling I may have to start in the recess first, what do you mean by hinge the bumper?
it is indeed the 3m di noc i’m using.
Chris 🙂
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3M DiNoc it’s not very durable and as I can see the recess is deep. Unfortunately I would recomend doing in 2 pieces. Fill the recess first then put one big piece on whole bumper and trim around recess. If you’ll do that nicely you won’t even see the join.
Ps. Is the whole car in carbon stuff?
Post some pictures when you finish.
Mike -
As the above guys said.
Only issue with me is the place you’ve decided to join the side panel/wing/door!Putting a join along the bottom, especially fitting the top first, all water and dirt will collect in/on it. Come on wrapping boys, you should have picked up on that!!! 😳 😳
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sorry wrong thread
c
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quote Matty Goodwin:As the above guys said.
Only issue with me is the place you’ve decided to join the side panel/wing/door!Putting a join along the bottom, especially fitting the top first, all water and dirt will collect in/on it. Come on wrapping boys, you should have picked up on that!!! 😳 😳
I thought with dinoc you did a butt joint not an overlap. Is this correct?
Is so it won’t matter if you did the top or bottom first.
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quote Matty Goodwin:As the above guys said.
Only issue with me is the place you’ve decided to join the side panel/wing/door!Putting a join along the bottom, especially fitting the top first, all water and dirt will collect in/on it. Come on wrapping boys, you should have picked up on that!!! 😳 😳
If you are referring to the bottom of the rear quarter, there is a join in the bodywork there anyway. The lower sideskirts are a separate panel.
Chris – what I think he meant by hinging the bumper was wrapping it in two pieces from the center outwards. The di-noc is only about 1200 wide (i think) so to do the entire width of the bumper in one piece you will have to go lengthways on the roll leaving you with a long, thin offcut. I suppose this can be used up on the sideskirts or any interior pieces so I would crack on with doing it in one piece. It will definitely look better without a seam down the middle.
Looking forward to seeing the finished article!
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thanks for all the replies guys!
Michael Szawacki – yes the whole car is done in carbon! My first attempt ever at wrapping so kind of gone in at the deep end! Will post pics when its finished.
Matty – as Owen said the lower skirt is seperate to the car so a nice recess which I have tucked both edges in.
Owen – with the rear I did do it all in one piece but started from one end (newbie mistake I suppose!), I thought that the vinyl would’ve gone in the recess ok. Luckily enough the offcut from the rear bumper was enough to do the front bumper!
I think i’ll try it as one piece again but start from the middle and work outwards both ways, done really fancy having any joins.
Kind of wished i hadnt’ jumped the gun and tried a normal colour first as I think it would’ve been easier (and a lot cheaper mind). Now its nearly finished the worst thing about it is i’m not sure if I actually like it! Looks very ‘matt’ finish and doesnt really suit the car.
Quick bit of advice as well, is using a normal cast vinyl (ie – a gloss white) be easier than using this Carbon 3M stuff or are they no different?
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To be honest with you I think that carbon it’s easiest wrap ever. Vinyl is very thick and it’s very hard to leave bubbles or any creases – sorry. 🙂
I still think you should do it in 2 pieces. Even if you will finish that bumper of one piece it’s case of few days and it’ll start coming off in the corners and will be look worse than with join – but it’s only my opinion.Mike
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How much is dinoc over in the uk?
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We pay about £29.99 plus 17.5% vat and delivery per metre, not sure how that compares overseas.
What normal colour cast vinyl would people recommend if I were to try a gloss white?
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I got a leaflet through from Hexis the other day about their HX2000 series wrap vinyls. They do 33 colours and are made specifically for colour changes and are pre laminated. They also feature some kind of air release vinyl so will be straight forward, although prob not great for the deepest of recesses.
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Avery are now doing one aswell, not cheap though – £18 p/m
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The dinoc is on special offer at the moment,
but should you guys really be giving prices out in an open forum?
Your customers may google and realise how cheap it is 😀Peter
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Peter is right I shouldn’t have asked in an open forum.
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Most people seem to know what the vinyl sells for as its all over ebay unfortunately. People get a little frightened when they forget that VAT and postage needs adding!
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Not to mention that anybody can buy vinyl from suppliers now, even if they are not in the trade.
One of our customers phoned a supplier and was given the 500+ metre rate straight off!
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Cfoster – any progress ???
I’d like to see what you’ve done 🙂
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Hi Michael, here are a few pics, pretty happy with the finish for my first attempt, obviously mistakes here and there as i’m still learning, the odd stretch mark here and there (particularly the tailgate and bonnet due to size restriction) but quite pleased i’m spotting them and correcting as i’m going along. Not 100% sure if it suits the car as it looks very ‘matt’, think i was used to the shiny paint!
God awful rear bumper, you can just about see in the pic the bottom corner of the recesses not adhering to the bumper:
Spot the incomplete mirror!!
Be gentle!
Chris
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From the photos if looks like a pretty great install and tidy too.
Great job.
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Question did you use any primer 94?
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Hi Jason, thanks for the kind comments, its not bad for a beginner!
I didnt use any primer no, just used Hexis O degreaser.
Chris
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Looks pretty nice 🙂
So how did you done rear bumper ?Mike
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That looks pretty darn good…….well done… :thumbsup:
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cfoster wrote:
"God awful rear bumper, you can just about see in the pic the bottom corner of the recesses not adhering to the bumper: "
So you’ve done it in one piece – what did I say ???!!!
Sorry but every customer will say: Oh yes, that looks nice but what is that?!
Only solution I can see it’s cut it and do the receess in another piece (as I said before)Anyway, very good job.
Mike
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I was reading into dinoc and it seems the recommendation is to use primer on the edges when your stretching it.
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We can’t buy Primer 94 in UK. Well we can on e-bay from USA but it’s not recommended because it’s leaving permanent marks after removing vinyl 🙁
That’s what I’ve been told by 3M rep.Mike
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Sorry been away all day!
Rear bumper admittedly i threw my toys out of the pram and left it!!
Having done the whole car to be totally honest I dont really like it (as mentioned a couple of pages back!). I will be removing it all so its back to its original blue.
With regards to the rear bumper i’m determined to keep trying to get it right but will be buying some normal colour cast to practice with so its a lot easier on the wallet. Its been great practice though.
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🙂
Leave the roof in CF and do the rest in matt white! It’s also good for practice as you have to really be careful with matt. Enjoy taking off and do it soon as possible as few members complains about lifting paint of CF.
Mike
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quote Michael Szwacki:We can’t buy Primer 94 in UK. Well we can on e-bay from USA but it’s not recommended because it’s leaving permanent marks after removing vinyl 🙁
That’s what I’ve been told by 3M rep.Mike
So this material is not warranted by 3m, for use on the exterior of cars, the primer is recommended, but leaves marks. so either way its a no brainer?
Are we sure we want to fit it to customers cars? I can see a few big claims materialising in the future, personally I dont think i would take the risk.
William smith and Spandex both sell this material, and for wrap use, but what guarantee do they offer? answer none.
Barge pole springs to mind 😀Peter
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It’s a huge worry, I just wonder what it will do to the datsun when it comes off? Have you tried taking any off yet?
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Sorry first time back on here, took all the vinyl off at the weekend and came off absolutely fine. No paint lift, damage or anything. Took a couple of hours gently heating and lifting at the same time. I’ve kept the roof and bonnet on as I kind of like it like that.
Michael – white was the colour I was going to try! Think i’d prefer gloss white though. What vinyl would you recommend for this? I normally use Hexis for my vinyl.
Chris 🙂
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Michael – ive only ever used Hexis vinyl so dont know any different. The 3M Di Noc was the first non-hexis vinyl i’ve used.
What cast vinyl would you recommend for me for a gloss white?
Chris
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I can’t recommend you any white because I’ve used only one so far – kpmf, as I said it’s more brighter than 3M and lot cheaper (good for playing around) but you have a lot of choices: 3M, kpmf, Avery, APA, Hexis, Grafityp … and few another.
I’m thinking of redoing my car in 3Ms white matt this time.
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