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notice board for post office
Anyone made a public notice board before?
It has to take tape and blue-tack.
Customer wants a 2 metre by 1 metre public notice board and has said it has to be black and shiny (that black shiny acrylic stuff to quote him)
Do you think I would need a ply backing down first?
And
I’ve never used acrylic before and am worried about scratches or breaking. (there is a thread on the forum about polycarbonate being better)
It has to go onto this type of wall.
Thanks for reading.
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13 Replies
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Black Gloss Di-Bond may be better. Just screw to the wall.
Bear in mind most acrylics contract and expand some 10mm per metre so make sure the fixing holes are elongated to allow for this.
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Tks
You’ve made me think about acrylic now but would the diabond not scratch easily exposing the aluminiun?
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Hi James, depends how abused it gets. We have been using black composite for our pub menus (as chalkboards) for over a year now, they regularly get cleaned off & rewritten, still look OK, if there are scratches etc I haven’t noticed.
Lorraine
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Tks Lorraine
I’m used to working with composite would make things alot easier.
Do you think If I had an 3/4 inch of ply behind the diabond I could finish it with strips of wood?
I’m thinking something with a rebate to cover the edges of the diabond.
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I’ve done Pub notice boards in black acrylic which they use to use to advertise events, most were fine but one Pub Manager did have a moan about them marking but it didn’t look bad to either myself or the customer that owner all the pubs. You will get a bit of marking on them but you will probably get that whatever you use and black gloss will show any marks up more easily than just about anything else. Polycarbonate isn’t brittle like acrylic so it won’t break but it will mark and scratch far more easily than acrylic. You will have to watch for expansion as Ian says but that’s not difficult to allow for.
Not used composite board for this sort of work but having read Lorraines post I would definitely think about using it if asked again -
Tks Martin
How did you fix and finish?
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James, they were all fitted into frames which might be the best way for you to do it to allow for expansion but unfortunately does increase the price. Some went into silver frames to match other signage the pub had and some I made wooden frames for, think I did about 11 over a period of time.
I’ve also drilled holes oversize and then used screws with the mirror type dome caps for fixing to internal walls. Only problem I find with that is that acrylic doesn’t always have the best edges when cut if it’s not flame polished, another reason for putting it in a frame. -
quote James Martin:I’m thinking something with a rebate to cover the edges of the diabond.
Put a Di-Bond tray instead. Will look good and then the edges won’t show.
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Or stockframe from Jag-probably cheaper than wood!
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Make a frame from architrave with a rebated back edge to sit over the dibond panel.
Just fix the frame over the top of the dibond panel to the slat wall panels.
The dibond sheet is cut slightly smaller so can expand or contract to it hearts content.Just another option.
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Architrave Tim, a new word, I like it.
B n Q with a smaller strip behind to make the rebate. fix the di-bond with
the mirrored caps………. wait a minute that would look shot, mirrored caps and a frame. The same would apply with any frame, stockframe as well. Cant have both.Do you think the tray option would be strong enough in the middle?
Baring in mind it is going to be 2 metres by 1, would it buckle in the middle when someone was pressing there X-box for sale advert on with blue-tack?
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quote James Martin:Do you think the tray option would be strong enough in the middle?Baring in mind it is going to be 2 metres by 1, would it buckle in the middle when someone was pressing there X-box for sale advert on with blue-tack?
You could always insert some fins behind the tray to prevent it being pushed in. Simple 90 degree folded dibond fins glued inside the tray should suffice
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quote Phill:quote James Martin:Do you think the tray option would be strong enough in the middle?Baring in mind it is going to be 2 metres by 1, would it buckle in the middle when someone was pressing there X-box for sale advert on with blue-tack?
You could always insert some fins behind the tray to prevent it being pushed in. Simple 90 degree folded dibond fins glued inside the tray should suffice
I would just fix timber batons to the wall, if you are worried about distortion, ( which I wouldnt be) depending on what adhesive you use, sometimes it can shrink and is noticable on the face side,
Peter
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