More Plotter Advice Please

[Mike Brown]

Paul,

Can’t help with the plotter type I’m afraid – heard of them but never used one.

Regarding ‘tangential emulation’, imagine cutting a square…

An actual tangential blade machine will cut one side of the square, lift the knife, turn it in the direction of the next cut, place it down ‘bang-on’ the corner and continue on its way…

The dragknife tries to emulate this but, as it cannot turn the blade (only drag it around), so it lifts the blade after the first cut, then lowers it a short distance outside the start point of the next cut. As the blade begins its next cut, this small distance allows the blade time to ‘pull-round’ facing the direction of cut – and intersect the corner with a clean cut.

SignUpDate Magazine…

In the meantime, the Editors name is Roger Hinchliffe, they’re based in Banbury, the phone number is 01295 660666 and the email address is: magazine@sign-update.co.uk

more soon

mikethesign

[Lee Attewell]

Hi paul, I’ll try to help out with this one. I use one of the earlier models of this plotter I use a GCC Lynx. It’s been ok I suppose. Nothing flash. I had to have the motors and main board replaced after about six months since then…No dramas at all ( touch wood)

I’m actually thinking about updating my plotter to the Jaguar. Just because I want a better plotter. This one has some groovy looking stuff.

Listen though to the other guys here though. They all seem to use similar plotters either Graphec or Roland ones. If I had the dosh to blow I’d probably go for one of those. As it is I can trade mine in for a good quid that’s why I’m looking at GCC again.

I hope I get this one right…Tangental cutting is where the blade is lifted to face the direction of cut before it cuts as opposed to drag knife cutting whick most plotters use. Mike just explained this in another post. I’m not sure if you have access yet, try a search .

Anyway with Tangental emulation, What I think happens ( I’m really guessing here) is that the blade is lifted and realigned to the direction of cut before cutting by the software touching the blade down before cutting and swiveling the blade by friction before doing the proper cut.

I’ve just confused the bejesus out of myself…I hope I haven’t done the same to you.

Lee

[Mark Horley]

lee…
Isn’t it amazing how the spoken word is different to the written one….
If you would have told me….I would have said ‘OH YES’
But reading that…i got lost in the word…. 😀
Is it a bit like explaining the off side rule to my cat!!!!! 😀

[Neil Stevenson]

Hi Mark,

Tangential emulation is for thick materials like SBR or SB plastic, it makes a drag knife cutting head work in a simalar way to the old tangental machines. It is not needed on most materials especially as the Jags have 600grams max cutting force and a very high spec in all other areas. Come down to the showroom and try one, no pressure, we will even leave you alone to try it for yourself. If you like it I will make you a special UK Signboards offer.
Let me know if I can be of any more help.

Best regards

Neil

[Gi Graphics]

Hi
Many thanks to you all for the advice. I get the idea with the emulation mode. Can I assume that a true tangential cutter is therefore quicker than an emulation job. Just one more piece of advice that would really be useful is what width machine is the most useful. What criteria should I be considering to make this decision.
Thanks again
Paul

[Lee Attewell]

What Mike said… 😆 😆 😆

[Neil Stevenson]

It is hard to suggest a best size to buy, this depends on the type of work you do. 610mm is the biggest seller.
The thing to remember with the Jag plotters is that they are true cutting widths. 610 can cut 610mm wide 1320 cuts 1320mm etc. this can sometimes allow you to get away with a smaller cutter than you think you require. 610, 760, 1016 and 1320mm are the options.

Regards

Neil

[Henry Barker]

Sizewise I think you have to look at what you want to do. Most dealers who sell vinyl and machines will point you towards a 610mm machine because, they just split 1220 logs in two, and don’t have too many sizes to deal with.

We had Gerber plotters here before at 15″ and 30″ and found that 15″ (375mm)was always abit small, and 30″ (750mm) was a good size. If you’re doing alot of negative backlit signage a full width machine would be good.

I find that 750mm is great to handle by myself on larger jobs or paneljobs. I buy full width rolls and split them 750 plus rest which gives you a second roll with cutting area of 450mm. Over here you get much better prices on full width material.

Neil might have a great machine I have never heard of them before. I think its abit misleading to say “older tangential machines”. Our Summa SignPro T series is less than 3 years old and still their top model.

I looked at Gerber, Graphtec and Summa, I could have bought a Graphtec, I think it was an FC 4100 or something like that (full width) for a very little more than I paid for the Summa, but the Summa is in a different class. I cut sandblast resist, we also make pounce patterns , and then there is the OPOS on Summa too for contour cutting digital media.

If now you know what the tangential is all about, and its not a must , check out the Summa D-series, and the Graphtec, those would have been my choices, had I not wanted the extra facilities. While your at it see what Neil can offer you :).

The service over here is great for Gerber, Graphtec and Summa

[Mark Horley]

Paul…It may be worth looking at a price list for the vinyl…I know that amari charge the same per metre for 610mm as they do for 500mm

I would recommend a 610mm machine most fascia designs will not have lettering over 450mm due to the length & layout….and if its cut in ‘relief’ design in a ‘stripe’ to run the length of the fascia this way no awkward joins.. Just my thoughts mate…Hope they help