Mimaki JV3 160 – print dryer? Help needed please

[Jamie Wood]

We run the post heater at 47, and usually make up our black at 25C/25M/25Y/100K
to give a dense black, and ours dry OK to go on the take-up. Do you have the array of
fans that go right across the front of the machines?

[David Rogers]

Our machine only has a pre-heater & print heater, nothing except the fans to dry it.

Took the back guard off the fans a few weeks back to help get a bit more airflow….only jammed my fingers in them a couple of times so far.

Machine pictured is as per ours.

Running Lyson 1300 inks (high solvent) and MD3 media for the most part.

Dave

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[Jamie Wood]

It looks like the same as ours, so I can only assume that it’s the ink or profiles. We
use Mimaki ink, so possibly the Lyson has a slower drying rate. Sorry I can’t be of any
more help.

[Stafford Cox]

Nazdar inks are pretty good in my opinion. I would suggest RIP or profiling personally as most of the JV3’s I have on cover run fine with just the heaters and fans.

Stafford

[David Rogers]

quote Stafford Cox:

Nazdar inks are pretty good in my opinion. I would suggest RIP or profiling personally as most of the JV3’s I have on cover run fine with just the heaters and fans.

Stafford

We love the Nazdar inks – run them bulk on the JV3 & Rockhopper.

Difference is on the rocky I can run it at any speed, any media and it’s touch dry by the time it goes on the take-up…JV3, not so much.

I know our RIP & profiles are biased towards saturated blacks & about 15% over saturation in the colours, but it gives the results we and our customers love…deep, punchy colours.

The JV3 was a ‘new’ addition in the spring to take up the slack and run 2 machines so I’d never had to contend with print post drying with fans only before. I’m seriously thinking about making a 6′ wide heated steel plate with heating strip on the rear…if I can get some as a few minutes going over a 12" heated dryer is worth hours of lead time.

I saw Digiprint do IR / FAN assisted front facing heaters for about £800 whilst I was getting wipers.this morning.

I know it’s not a common issue and my combination of dense inks, especially black in a cool room with the humidity at this time of year won’t be helping.
🙄

[Stafford Cox]

That may be your best option really. I wouldn’t say those fans on the front were ever particularly good for drying. With the combination of RIP and printer installations and training I used to do, they were only really needed for pushing the fumes down to the bottom extraction fans.

[David Rogers]

Well, have made it better and no longer a major issue by setting up 2 of the cheapo halogen IR heaters to shine onto the media as it comes down. Doesn’t heat up the air so ideal as very directional.

I’ve been through every setting I could see in our rip software and profiles but I’ve got no way of reducing the black ink saturation. It’s colorgate print server running the right profiles for our machines but scarily heavy on solid black for the JV3.

Aside from re-profiling it’s at least a useable machine now!

[Kevin Flowers]

Dave
i would change ink over, i used Nazdar 2000 series on Roland SC545 with no problems for years which is probably what the Mutoh is using and should solve your problems. However the full solvent should dry quicker than the 2000 series but obviously isnt

Kev

[Denise Goodfellow]

We have a jv3, we don’t have any dyer or fan in front of it. When we got it we installed jet best ink as we have used that ink on the CVJ 130 for the last 4 years with problems.

[David Rogers]

Not ink issue, more likely the profile from color gate as same results when we were running genuine Mimaki SS2 as now with the lyson bulk.

It’s really only the black that’s an issue…virtually pools when going down as 100%.

Turned up the pre and print heaters…helped a bit too. 35\45 degrees.

Why couldn’t they just fit a damn post-heater!