Latex Printed Canvas Finishing

[Mike Grant]

I don’t know if its still available, but I used to use a product called "Frog Juice" Paint it on or spray it on.

[Myles Brewer]

quote Mike Grant:

I don’t know if its still available, but I used to use a product called “Frog Juice” Paint it on or spray it on.

Thanks Mike, I have heard of frog juice but never used it myself and not sure where to get it. Us it suitable for use on latex do you know?

[Kevin Mahoney]

You can get it from Victory design as a brush on or aerosol, not sure if it’s useable on latex. I’ve only ever used it once years ago on a couple of projecting banners. Took days to dry but once up on the wall, they lasted for donkeys years.

[Myles Brewer]

quote Kevin Mahoney:

You can get it from Victory design as a brush on or aerosol, not sure if it’s useable on latex. I’ve only ever used it once years ago on a couple of projecting banners. Took days to dry but once up on the wall, they lasted for donkeys years.

Thanks Kevin, I’ll give them a shout on mo Monday & see if they have any info re using on latex.
I did find what I presume is another brand of frog juice by Lion which states it’s suitable for use on cotton & polyester canvas which might do it too but again need to check latex compatability.

[Kevin Mahoney]

It works fine on solvent, can’t imagine any reason why it wouldn’t work on latex. Worth a try though, it’s not expensive

[Simon Worrall]

We use a good quality clear acrylic paint (water based)
it dries in about an hour

[Simon Worrall]

Its best to apply it with a paint pad which keeps the bubbles to a minimum.

[Myles Brewer]

quote Simon Worrall:

We use a good quality clear acrylic paint (water based)
it dries in about an hour

Hi Simon, Is that on latex prints? I presume you apply once the canvas is stretched & not before?

I do prefer the idea of a spray but not sure it would ship to Ireland?

[Simon Worrall]

We do solvent.
As others have said
It should be fine on Latex.
try a bit on a scrap piece of canvas before comitting.
Laminate it BEFORE stretching.
The clear will protect your print from the stretching process.

[Colin Crabb]

We used clear car lacquer (Acrylic based) from local car shop with the water based canvas prints, before move canvases onto the L360.

Can’t comment on L265 series (sorry!) but printing on the L360, we’ve never varnished or sealed any canvas prints – don’t think its needed personally.

The inks are waterproof, very stable against colour fade for indoor applications (away from direct sunlight) and good scratch resistant & do not crack when folding.
Never had a customer issue, (must of produced 100+ canvases in the last year) and for the last 2 years there been a canvas print in our shower room at home! – still fresh as the day it was printed :bigsmile:

[Myles Brewer]

quote Colin Crabb:

We used clear car lacquer (Acrylic based) from local car shop with the water based canvas prints, before move canvases onto the L360.

Can’t comment on L265 series (sorry!) but printing on the L360, we’ve never varnished or sealed any canvas prints – don’t think its needed personally.

The inks are waterproof, very stable against colour fade for indoor applications (away from direct sunlight) and good scratch resistant & do not crack when folding.
Never had a customer issue, (must of produced 100+ canvases in the last year) and for the last 2 years there been a canvas print in our shower room at home! – still fresh as the day it was printed :bigsmile:

Thanks Colin, I think you’re probably right that it shouldn’t need laminating really if it’s only going to be indoors certainly regards fading or scratching. My only other reason would be to make the printed image a little more vibrant as it always looks a little washed out on cotton canvas.
I may actually suggest also that once they have all the guest signatures on it they get a professional photo taken of it so if any disaster does befall the canvas at least a new copy could be printed from the photo. [emoji106]

[Kevin Flowers]

Myles
always used Clear Shield liquid from Landor on solvent prints play around with foam brushes, normal brushes or pads and you can create some nice finishes

http://www.liquid-lamination.co.uk/what-is/clearshield/

Kev

[Myles Brewer]

quote Kevin Flowers:

Myles
always used Clear Shield liquid from Landor on solvent prints play around with foam brushes, normal brushes or pads and you can create some nice finishes

http://www.liquid-lamination.co.uk/what-is/clearshield/

Kev

Kevin, you’re a genius!! :praiseyou: I think I may have a tub of that in the deep dark recesses of my shed :smiles: . I bought it maybe 10 years ago or more for laminating over UV direct prints on corriboard I was getting from another source which were prone to peeling very rapidly & hoped it may have prolonged the lifespan!! I think it helped slightly but in the end the inks still lifted, just with the laminate on top!!! Gave up on direct print UV for a while after that!! But I’d forgotten all about the Clearshield. I’ll see if I can dig it out & laminate a test print on canvas.
My only worry then with the customer version is that it’s already wrapped onto stretcher bars & I wonder if that may cause an issue as in the laminate bleeding through the canvas & sticking the canvas to the frame thus rendering future stretching impossible if required!

[Kevin Flowers]

Myles
had a quick read on their site & its fine on Latex from all accounts

Kev