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  • is goldleafing onto di-bond possible?

    Posted by Harry Cleary on May 13, 2008 at 9:50 pm

    I have a Church board to do…….normally I would do these on marine ply but they want something long lasting, I was wondering have any brushies had experience of goldleafing onto black Dibond? Any tips?

    Harry Cleary replied 16 years ago 10 Members · 20 Replies
  • 20 Replies
  • Ian Bingham

    Member
    May 13, 2008 at 9:52 pm

    how about gold leaf vinyl, there’s an American one with ten yr life, forget the name though
    Ian

  • Jill Marie Welsh

    Member
    May 13, 2008 at 10:12 pm

    I have used gold leaf on Alumalite with good results.
    Be careful if you are using a mask because you can get this weird ghosting from it.
    I think it would be a "sin" to use vinyl on this.
    It would also be more cost-effective to gild, when you consider the time involved and the fact that SignGold is almost $100 for 2 yards.
    Love….Jill

  • Harry Cleary

    Member
    May 13, 2008 at 10:20 pm

    thanks folks,
    they want goldleaf not vinyl. Any more info on this ‘ghosting’ Jill, is there a way to avoid/fix it?
    Also, I would imagine Dibond would get extremely hot, would this have any effect on longevity?

  • Jill Marie Welsh

    Member
    May 13, 2008 at 11:43 pm

    By ghosting I mean that where you lay down the mask, it leaves like a ghost of itself after you remove it.
    It’s really difficult to get off. It’s like a slight clouding of the background wherever the mask lies.
    I can’t explain it better than that. I get it when using mask with aluminum of any sort?
    I get it on 1-Shot backgrounds too but not as frequently.
    maybe it’s the Oramask.
    As for the heat thing, Harry, where will these go?
    I can’t imagine DiBond getting hotter than any other black substrate.
    They could also double as griddles when the church hosts a pancake breakfast.
    🙂
    Love….Jill

  • Harry Cleary

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 9:44 am

    Thanks Jill, I just thought that the metal would behave differently to a painted surface. It will be in full sun all day on a very exposed hillside.

  • Tim Hobbs

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 12:03 pm

    Hi Harry

    I have done this on quite a few occasions now.
    Only if the lettering is of a fair size though, waste of time if the type is very small.
    I use mask for the lettering.
    Lightly abrade the surface when the mask is in place with fine grade wire wool to provide a key for the size, be careful and you’ll find that the mask will protect the surrounding area OK.
    Then I use one hour goldsize from One-Shot and remove the mask when the size has reached suitable tack, don’t let it dry completely as the mask will leave a feathered edge when you remove it.

    Then apply gold leaf in the usual way.

    Hope this helps mate.
    You can achieve some really nice looking signs this way.

    Tim

  • Tim Hobbs

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 12:06 pm

    PS.

    It will be fine in the sun. Nothing lasts like gold. If anything the size breaks down first. If worried use a longer curing size, as a rule of thumb the longer the tack time the more durable it is outside.

    Tim

  • Joe Cieslowski

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 1:23 pm

    Here’s the scoop on the properties of the different types of size…
    http://www.handletteringforum.com/forum … php?t=2164

    Hope this is helpful. 🙂

    Joe,

    Makin Chips and Havin Fun!

  • Mike Kenny

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 2:01 pm

    Hi Harry,
    I agree with Tim, a slow size , (if you can keep the dust down) is far better for lasting outside as it never fully cures. just make your holes in the dibond slightly larger than the screws to allow for a little movement, that black is going to get hot!!!
    cheers
    mike

  • Brian Little

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 3:13 pm

    ive had no problems with this atol Harry in fact its an excellent substrate to use

  • Harry Cleary

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 9:19 pm

    Thanks folks…….its a go then! 😀

  • Lynn Normington

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 9:25 pm

    love to see it done Harry so pic’s please 😀

    Lynn

  • Lynn Normington

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 9:34 pm

    this is a ps to the above as I can’t edit it. maybe a step by step would be good Harry if you have the time 🙄

    Lynn

  • Harry Cleary

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 9:39 pm

    I’ll try to get the time to set it up Lynn.

  • Jill Marie Welsh

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 9:50 pm

    Definitely use the slow size.
    I’ve been gilding 10 years now and I still suck at it.
    But the slow size seems to be easier for me not to screw up.
    All I can find as an example is gilding on Alumalite for last year’s Letterville Panel Swap.
    Not my best work by any means.
    The church folks might complaint that the DiBond is much thinner than the regular wood.
    If gilding with a mask, I always cut an additional thin outline but don’t weed it. I apply the size, then take off the outline. This keeps the lettering from getting a "lip".
    I’ve been liking that "Crocodile" gold, I think it’s from Oz.
    Also trying to show something I gilded with a mask that ghosted on the background. It’s a formed HDU Caravagio blank.
    It probably won’t show up…you know how ghosts can be.
    Love….Jill


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  • Peter Normington

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 10:02 pm

    Ghosting shows up fine, jill

  • Peter Normington

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 10:03 pm

    Ghosting shows up fine,

    Peter


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  • Jill Marie Welsh

    Member
    May 14, 2008 at 11:26 pm

    😀 :lol1: 😀 :lol1: 😀
    So does the rust on my bumper, unfortunately!
    Love….Jill

  • Neil Davey

    Member
    May 15, 2008 at 9:34 am

    You should be OK using Dibond, using a size with a longer ‘open time’ will be better if you have alot to gild and will also give a better lustre.

    You could use some hardwood framing to ‘beef-up’ the sign
    http://www.jagsignsupplies.com/aqshop/catalogue.php?id=360

    I do quite a few sundials which are goldleaf but on a painted brass and these weather fine.


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  • Harry Cleary

    Member
    May 15, 2008 at 2:20 pm

    Thanks again everyone, feel confident tackling this job now………even if I’m afraid of ghosts! 😀

    Don’t need that framing for this job Neil, but I have one coming up that it will be perfect for….cheers for that.

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