HP Designjet 2500CP Printer?

[Shane Drew]

I started with a 3500cp many many moons ago.

Printing on clear is no good, the ink is very transparent and has no opacity.

It prints on Canvas very well though, as long as its the expensive coated brand (Kodak and HP) because it has a very good dye ink. The pigment inks are good too, but the dye is the best on canvas.

They are an old machine now though. Not sure there is much product support for them now….

[Stephen Morriss]

Hi

I still use a 3800cp without the rip, just run the windows driver and print from Corel.
I tried the dye inks but they faded quickly so never bothered with them again, quite an expensive experiment, they were a bit brighter though.
All my printing on this is done using the UV inks, I’m using HP’s own inks and I’ve even done outside signs with it printed onto coated vinyl and laminated with a good quality laminate with UV block.
Still looking good after 4 years..

I do print onto canvas with it, not as good as the new printers but good enough for anything but very close inspection, even done prints onto Satin paper for artists and they were happy.
I only use it on best so it’s quite sloooooowwwwww, ok very slow 🙂 I just leave it to get on with the printing.

I also have a 30" Uniform Cadet so I’ve also been thinking of getting the 54" version as I do use the full width of the HP3000 (54"), I seem to remember the 2500 is 42".
If it’s a very good price then there is no reason not to use it but I’d also consider an Epson or Canon at that size.

Steve

[Roger Weichert]

Hi Adam,

I still use a HP 3500CP which is the 54 inch version of the 2500. I think that is only 36 inch wide though.

I understand all the rest is the same with either dye inks or pigment (UV) inks that can be used.

After years of looking I’ve not been able to find any after-market ink, so it’s either horribly expensive from the retailers … or take your chances off ebay with out of date stuff.

I agree with Stephen though, I have stuck with UV only as the dye ink fades very quickly. Makes me wonder how anyone ever made any money out of them to start with … must have been all short term prints.

Having said that, you get a lot of prints out of a cartridge .. as long as you dont do mainly solid colours.

I’ve done mostly posters on photo paper, banners on polyester type material and scrim … some backlit posters, and used some adhesive vinyl and also adhesive polypropylene paper.

I just bought a roll of canvas for the first time, and am impressed with the results so far.

One disadvantage of these machines is that you need special media … specially coated to accept the ink … you cant just shove through any cheap vinyl etc … although having said that .. I’ve picked up a lot of cheaper rolls from various online auctions and web specials.

One of my most recent jobs was the backdrop for a drama. I actually used the dye ink for this (on cheap bond paper), as it was only for three nights … but the image was of the side of a house … and life size. It was 20ft by 10ft, and looked pretty impressive stuck on the back of the stage.

I’ve never tried ‘clear’ so cant advise you there, though ‘clear film’ is listed as a suitable media for the machine. Wouldn’t be self adhesive though.

If you want more info just ask. I could point you to a free download of the users manual and also the service manual if that was of interest.

Regards, Roger

[Roger Weichert]

Hi Stephen,

Glad to see I’m not the only one still using this vintage gear 🙂

quote :

I’ve even done outside signs with it printed onto coated vinyl and laminated with a good quality laminate with UV block.
Still looking good after 4 years..

Can you tell us what vinyl and laminate you used please?

Do you also use any protective coating on your canvas prints?

Regards, Roger

[Stephen Morriss]

Hi Roger

The media was self adhesive polyester and the laminate was from Hexis.
I was also using Inktec inks at the time, don’t think they do it anymore so I’m using the HP inks now.

I have a polyester canvas I print onto for classic bus destination blinds of all things and I’ve found the Halfords acrylic clear spray is good for spray laminating them and Canvas art prints.

The scan belt has started to fall apart on mine, have a new one but looking at the manual I have to take the end off the printer to get at it and then you have to do a calibration print so I’ve been putting it off.

It’s been a really handy machine with the take up roll as well so I have left it for hours printing slowly away, certainly now high speed production on these is there 🙂

How have you found the inks of Ebay, any problems with the date blocking the printer?

Steve

Steve

[Bill McMurtry]

Hi Adam, I’ve still got my old 3500. I used to own a 2500CP which is the same as the 3500 only narrower and with the internal rip. They’re good for canvas and coated vinyl using pigment inks (dye ink fades real fast), although I haven’t really used the old beast since the JV3 moved in. I should get rid of it as it takes up a lot of workshop space.

The ink is expensive as there isn’t really a 3rd party alternative because of the complicated way the machine uses and self fills the ink cartridges from the ink tanks. But the ink does go a long way compared to the JV3 which needs a large sip of ink every day just to keep its heads wet. I’ve left the 3500 switched off for months and after a quick clean it’s up and printing again. Try that with the JV3 and you’d be up for a full set of replacement heads and god knows what else. Of course the upside with solvent pigment ink as opposed to aqueous pigment ink is the ability to print on just about anything.

[Roger Weichert]

Hi Steve,

Thanks for that info. I’m still learning about all the different materials and products that can be used on the machine.

I’m still amazed at the print quality and look of the stuff it will print.

… and you are right … it certainly is slow, although I dont have anything else to compare it with. I just set it printing and get on with something else.

I guess if I had enough work that the printer was slowing me up too much … I’d be able to justify something newer and faster.

By scan belt I assume you’re talking about the long one that drives the print heads across. I’ve not changed one on this machine …though I have replaced the trailing cable … but I have changed one on a 36in HP 650C. That wasn’t all that difficult.

I have rebuilt the service station a couple of times .. the plastic was all deteriorating and it’s fallen apart a few times.

It’s held together with super glue and copper braid melted into the surface 😕 Seems to be holding up ok … though I know the motor that raises and lowers it is a bit dodgy at times. I really need to find a spare in case it lets go completely.

quote :

How have you found the inks of Ebay, any problems with the date blocking the printer?

No. The dates dont seem to be an issue. I understand that after so many refills, the machine burns little fuses in the print head cartridge … and then eventually it will keep saying ‘low ink’ and if you persevere it will say ‘print quality not guaranteed’ or something like that. If you then carry on, it works fine.

Hi Bill … haven’t seen you on for a while. You dont have any spares for the old girl you want to get rid of? 🙂

Regards, Roger

[Bill McMurtry]

Hi Roger, sorry mate I don’t have any spares. These old units go pretty cheap these days so I expect you would have no trouble picking up a busted one for spares. But that might defeat your purpose if the busted bits are what you need :lol1:

You could try an eBay search for spares (here and the US). I’ve seen various bits offered on occasion.

[Roger Weichert]

Hi Bill,

No problems. It’s only when something goes wrong that I worry.

I’m always on the lookout for more ink, parts or machines.

The biggest problem with wrecked or dead machines, is that they weigh too much, and the sellers never want to pack up to freight them interstate … and we just about never see them available within South Aus.

I have bought ink from the US, and had great results, so I keep watching.

Regards, Roger