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how would i fix signage to this building?
Posted by John Harding on May 8, 2007 at 12:44 pmHi All
A client has asked me to hang his sign across the corner of this clad building at an angle of 45 deg so that it can be viewed from two aspects.
The sign is approx 6’ x 3’ 6mm foamex, my plan was to house in an proframe trim complete with ally backing (Cherwells) and support on welded Iron brackets.
My concern is that there is no access to the rear of the cladding so only screw fixings are possible, do you think this is feasible? I am concerned about the wind load and have been warned by my brother in law who is a very experienced builder that even if the fixings hold, an adverse wind could pull the sign and cladding away as one.
Thoughts please guys as to how you would design this or would you refuse to fit across the corner 😕
Thanks in advance – John
Peter Normington replied 17 years ago 9 Members · 23 Replies -
23 Replies
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Oooooh, I can understand your concerns. I did a similar thing, but it was only 8′ x 1′ and fixed to brick.
Can you fix into the steel subframe? (purlins I think they are called.)
Screwfix do a self drilling bolt that is designed for this.
Alternatively, is it possible to use a printed mesh instead of a rigid panel?
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Tecscrews are designed to self drill straight into cladding, mind you I always drill a small pilot hole first.
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Hi john , I did a similar job in london few years ago,like andy says there must be a frame inside the building, have your welder make you some straps/ plate that have bolts welded onto them that saddle the sub frame and drill the holes out through the cladding and bolt your sign up from the exterior, if you see what i mean, its a bit difficult to explain.
hope it helps
rich 🙂
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sorry john missed the bit about no access from inside whooooops. (!)
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You could pull that scaffold over a couple of feet, couple a coats light grey paint, few tie wraps bit of silicone…….BINGO job done! :lol1: 😉 😉
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Thanks all for the feedback so far – forgot to mention sign is portrait not landscape although it doesnt affect much I guess
quote :Screwfix do a self drilling bolt that is designed for this.Andy do you have a link or item no. for this please
Thanks again
John
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This is the kind of thing, although I think you’d need bigger ones. Rob uses them I think, so maybe he’s got a supplier for bigger ones.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro … 9&id=15279
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You’ll be able to pick these things up in most hardware places. I wouldn’t pre drill, there designed to go straight in so no need to double the work! (they go through ally angle no bother by the way)
This comes up with us from time to time, at the minute were doing a folded dibond panel for a similar thing, but it’s a lot smaller, would interested to see what you do for the final version.
Cheers
G
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Hi John,
Good to meet you at the show last week.
IMO I wouldn’t feel comfortable about doing it, if you can’t get a fixing on the inside.
I just don’t feel Tec bolts (great though they are) are good enough alone for a sign that’s standing off 3 feet.I’d put them off the idea and sleep soundly at night. 😕
Here’s another link to cladding fixings.
http://www.cladco.co.uk/fastening-systems.htm -
John, portrait does make a diff, only 18" sticking out instead of 36"
make up the brackets and attach to the purlings that are behind the cladding fixings. (where the cladding screws are)
You can use butterfly bolts to secure, far better job that tec screws.
Peter
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quote Peter Normington:John, portrait does make a diff, only 18″ sticking out instead of 36″
Peter, the sign is 6′ x 3′ clean those glasses 😀 .
Also great to meet you and lynn last week.
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Hi Martin
Good to meet you (again) also (met you the year before if you remember)
Thanks for the link mate
Peter – Nice to see you again too
quote :You can use butterfly bolts to secure, far better job that tec screws.do you have a link for these please Peter they sound better
quote :John, portrait does make a diff, only 18″ sticking out instead of 36″Martin I think Peter is refering too the distance from the midway point to the edge of the sign this being the amount protruding either side of the corner
Really appreciate all your advices
John 😀
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Martin, me specs are crystal.
6′ x 3 ‘ portrait
so 3’ = 36" divided by 2.18" sticking out each side?
In reality its a small sign, size of an average door?
anyway looking at Johns photo of the building, any bigger would be blocking light from the windows?
Peter
Great to meet you Martin,
you were a lot smaller than I imagined
😉Peter
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quick reply…
like Andy says, i use tech screws allot. techs come in various types, lengths etc you have techs for hard metal, soft metal, even wood. they also come in a range of sizes from .5 inch up to about 8 inches long, maybe longer, i have a bag of these long ones i keep handy in the off chance i need to try and hit some steel frame work for added support with a sign. that’s not often though because if i feel i need a bit of a better grip on a cladded building ill drill 4mm pilot holes, followed by wood techs.
there will be a video demo on fitting large flex-face signs loaded this week, you will see me using techs in that.
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quote Peter Normington:Martin, me specs are crystal.
6′ x 3 ‘ portrait
so 3’ = 36″ divided by 2.18″ sticking out each side?
OOP’s 😳 😳
Peter lend me those glasses 😮
It’s been a long day.
Happy anniversary to you and Lynn
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Peter
As mentioned in my post above – any chance you have a link for the butterfly bolts
Also rob where do you acquire wood techs and how do these differ?
John
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ill have to look out details, ive just switched suppliers and name slips me…
wood tech is same idea as metal ones but because it is into wood there is no need for a self tapping tip on the screw, "its a point" they are broad threaded and really claw into the metal once they have a bite, but to get it going a small pilot hole is required due to the tip.
when ordering any sorta screw, always try and get "full" thread. some come in weird choices of thread for cladding purposes, but hopeless for sign fitting. so full thread is always safest.
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something like this john, they need a largish hole, but offer a positive fixing, I am not always confident with techscrews to cladding as the cladding is very thin, I have used techscrews, but like to have a few more robust fittings, just for peace of mind….
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro … &id=31268#
Peter
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Thanks guys – Peter I’m with you on the overkill philosophy
John
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great stuff mate looks good
the welding was much easier with your drawing and with all the correct angles listed for me !!! yeah right !!!
looks like even the small c’s worked out okso its richard from dynamite signs and
richard from dynamite welding
just a quick one gosh i dont miss getting covered in crap all day !!!
rich -
Looks red hot to me,
😉Looks like a sturdy job, well done.
Peter
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