How do you all join two Di-bond panels.

[Peter Dee]

Never. I cut the edges square with a Stanley blade (Javelin cutter) from the back. I find this leaves little more than a hairline on the face when assembled.

[Chris Windebank]

From the toolbar, there is SMP (Sign Makers Products) This company do panel locks and are ideal for what you need.
signmakersproducts.ltd.uk

Click locks

[Martin Pearson]

Depends on the installation, if in a frame then something like the panel locks Chris has mentioned or by the use of 3 off cut strips of composite DS taped to the back. If fitting straight to an existing board then no just make sure the edges are cut square and butt them together.

[Ian Pople]

Thanks all,

I hope the supplier cut them straight.

Ian

[Robert Lambie]

are we talking the Di-Bond sign is going into a frame or flat on the wall mate?

as has been said, Panel Locks from SMP, there are also spring-loaded clips you can install on the outside sections of Panatrim and the like…

we produce a hell of a lot of Panatrim type signs, using both Di-Bond or aluminium sheet material.
if in a frame or if the join is left floating over a bridge of cladding etc I will rivet the panels together using a small backing plate of 1 or 2mm aluminium.
the rivets will be at top and bottom only, but on deep sheets, I will even do more in the middle.
i like to go with the thought of supplying signs that will last and look the same in a couple of years onwards than something that looks great until the cheque clears.

Ashby Trade Sign Supplies offer colour topped rivets that work a treat, but I generally use silver/mill finish regardless.

[Adam Zeit]

Usually we just put them together, just checking that they are cut straight, and there is hardly 1mm space in the middle. That is not much and it is not seen from distance.

However, I do ask the same question for a different project. I have a nearly 120m2 walls in a hall to cover with DBond panels, how would you indeed join them? I want to stick the Dbond Panels to the walls (afterwards I put vinyl and signage on that). Is there a double t alluminium profile to stick them together?

[Ian Johnston]

quote AdamZeit:

Usually we just put them together, just checking that they are cut straight, and there is hardly 1mm space in the middle. That is not much and it is not seen from distance.

However, I do ask the same question for a different project. I have a nearly 120m2 walls in a hall to cover with DBond panels, how would you indeed join them? I want to stick the Dbond Panels to the walls (afterwards I put vinyl and signage on that). Is there a double t alluminium profile to stick them together?

why on earth are you using ACM to clad an internal wall. ???
Totally wrong product for that type of application.
Not thermally stable for that size of wall, will show any undulation that lye’s beneath it,

Use 18mm MFC, Biscuit jointed at the edges, fixed through the face with a countersunk screw, and fill hole after wards. Sheet sizes of 2800×2070 will mean a lot fewer joints, also NO thermal movement or warping so flat print.

Ian

[Robert Lambie]

quote AdamZeit:

Usually we just put them together, just checking that they are cut straight, and there is hardly 1mm space in the middle. That is not much and it is not seen from distance.

However, I do ask the same question for a different project. I have nearly 120m2 walls in a hall to cover with DBond panels, how would you indeed join them? I want to stick the Dibond Panels to the walls (afterwards I put vinyl and signage on that). Is there a double T aluminium profile to stick them together?

I obviously do not know the look/finish you are after with this. so excuse me if I am way off!

for that size of the sign, why not just use a Flexiface system?

I have done huge shopping centre walls using banner media and they look excellent when finished.

* much cheaper to manufacture.
* quicker to erect.
* better finish zero joins.
* easily changed.

subbing it to a reputable print firm that can print up to 5m wide without joins,
such as macroart.com and then using simple Flexiface system? tensioning systems such as spirit-displays.co.uk/uk_about.html.
or indeed if the sign is supersize, then go for a proper tensioning system
available to our trade… many to mention sorry…

Whats MFC Ian?

.

[Ian Johnston]

quote Robert Lambie:

Whats MFC Ian?

.

melamine faced chipboard. Cheap to buy, (around £30-35 mark) for big sheets, Very stable, easy to work with, and the textured face is a beauty to apply graphics to, ( the original Easy apply) 😀

[Ian Pople]

Thanks all for you help sign is up and look good.

Ian

[Adam Zeit]

Hi Robert,

First of all, DBond is priced 7-8 pound a m2 in israel. So the price isn’t more than the cheaper melamine panels. Second, it is a multi-layer exhibit, and the walls look bad, and aren’t smooth. That’s why the DBond.
Afterwards we’ll put vinyl, perspex on standoffs and a fairfield cable system.

I had done projects with DBond applying on walls in the past, but usually it was 1-2 panels cut, and not 50-80 like in that project. Thought there was a better solution to make the walls "smooth".

[Robert Lambie]

quote Ian Johnston:

quote Robert Lambie:

Whats MFC Ian?

.

melamine faced chipboard. Cheap to buy, (around £30-35 mark) for big sheets, Very stable, easy to work with, and the textured face is a beauty to apply graphics to, ( the original Easy apply) 😀

cheers Ian… thanks for that mate.
actually got a small job to do and that "might" be the answer for it, though im not sure of the cores strengh/density is suitable for the weight of the object im fitting onto it. need to get my thinking cap on now… :lol1:

oh and MFC, go on, do wiki-it! none created for it as yet. 😉 :lol1:

[Robert Lambie]

quote AdamZeit:

Hi Robert,

First of all, DBond is priced 7-8 pound a m2 in israel. So the price isn’t more than the cheaper melamine panels. Second, it is a multi-layer exhibit, and the walls look bad, and aren’t smooth. That’s why the DBond.
Afterwards we’ll put vinyl, perspex on standoffs and a fairfield cable system.

I had done projects with DBond applying on walls in the past, but usually it was 1-2 panels cut, and not 50-80 like in that project. Thought there was a better solution to make the walls “smooth”.

Adam, i am sure you will know best in this instance mate.
I just cant get my head around the scale, finish, effect, labour etc involved in such a large scale project. do you have any pictures by any chance?
if not, not to worry, just curious/nosey…

best fo luck with it in any case mate.

[Adam Zeit]

Here is an example of an old work of applying DBond to floor and then putting a car on it in Israel. Just gluying it to the floor, joining the panels with 3mm aluminium profile.

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Attachments:

[David-Foster-]

quote AdamZeit:

Just gluying it to the floor

Hasn’t that ruined the floor? I would have just taped it to floor, gravity and all that 😀

[Adam Zeit]

Used double sided Tesa-Tape for the panels and aluminium profiles indeed.
It shoule be a one month project, however it is on for almost a year already.
Removing the panels shoule be very easy, and re-installing too. the only thing that should be replaced are the profiles.

[Gert du Preez]

quote AdamZeit:

Hi Robert,

First of all, DBond is priced 7-8 pound a m2 in israel. So the price isn’t more than the cheaper melamine panels. Second, it is a multi-layer exhibit, and the walls look bad, and aren’t smooth. That’s why the DBond.
Afterwards we’ll put vinyl, perspex on standoffs and a fairfield cable system.

I had done projects with DBond applying on walls in the past, but usually it was 1-2 panels cut, and not 50-80 like in that project. Thought there was a better solution to make the walls “smooth”.

😮 😮 I pay about GBP 28 per square metre here in Namibia!! If I could get it at the prices you pay in Israel, I will produce just about everything on Dbond!!

As it is, we use powder coated chromadek metal – about GBP8 per m2, but at the coast it starts rusting after 2 or 3 years. My new favourite way is to make aluminium frames, and stretch 550gsm digitally printed PVC over it.