how can i get a nice clean edge when cutting acrylic?

[Jill Marie Welsh]

The only time I did this, I scored it on both sides using a Stanley knife
and a straight edge clamped to it.
Score the heck out of it and then don’t be shy about snapping it.
If you have any burrs, you can carefully file at em.
Mind you I only did this once, with help.
The piece I did myself I only scored one side and when I snapped it it broke diagonally! GRRR.
Love…..Jill

[Shane Drew]

Chris, I use a circular saw or a jigsaw with a plastic cutting blade. If you can’t get one of them, get a blade that cuts aluminium, the more teeth the better, will also work well. With a jigsaw you may have a rougher surface than the circular saw, but I just rub it back with a fine wet’n’dry paper. Always keep the protective surface on tho until you are finished.

Hope that helps.

Shane

[Chris Hooper]

Jill – Its always what you think is going to be a simple job that turns into the nightmare. We scored and snapped and like you it just shattered.

Shane – I think I will head off down to the DIY later and pick up a fine tooth saw – I also have an old tile cutter saw – on a small flat bench no teeth on this as it is more of an abrasive wheel. I guess I
its a bit like drilling this stuff – somebody recommended once to use a blunt drill bit and melt your way through rather than drill your holes per se.

Thanks again

[Shane Drew]

Chris, that is true, Never use a new/sharp bit to drill thru perspex or acrylic. Always use a blunt drill bit, and let the drill do the work. Don’t put weight on the drill as it will likely crack as it comes out the other end.

I don’t think the tile saw would work tho.

The secret to cutting perspex is ‘slow and steady’. The minute you rush it, things will turn sour.

Hope that helps

Shane

[Chris Hooper]

Shane – brilliant thanks

Slow and steady is the way to go – just cut the job with fine tooth blade and its 100% perfect!

Cheers mate

[Rodney Gold]

Heres a tip for this , dont put too much heat into the acrylic as it really stresses it and it will devlop cracks in time. Use a reasonable feed rate and a non ferrous metal tungsten carbide tipped blade or a blade specific to Acrylic cutting (see below)

If you use other types of blades , use soapy water as a coolant (even if you use the right blade) and this will give a far far better cut.

Ideally you want to use hollow ground high speed blades with no set and at least 5 teeth per inch. Carbide tipped blades with a triple chip tooth will give the smoothest cuts. These are specialized blades and are really only useful if you do a LOT of acrylic

[Shaun Gallaway]

Hi all

Just a quick tip on a method I have found works well to drill holes in acrylic.

We use a masonry drill bit preferrably on the drill press drilling 11mm / 7/16″ holes in acrylic with not even a hint of grabbing/chipping etc.

As mentioned above slow and steady is the way to go.

Cheers
Shaun

[Peter Normington]

Here’s a few tips
http://www.plasticsmag.com/features.asp … Sep/Oct-01
http://www.acrylicbirdcages.com/plastic … _tools.htm
http://www.bertram31.com/proj/tips/drill_acrylic.htm
Peter

[Vince Francis]

Hi

You could always get the edge flame polished, failing that a quick cheat:

Scrap the edges till smooth, then use a clear varnish! ‘Cheap as chips’

Try it on a spare piece 1st, but it works

Vince

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