Help Needed!!!

[David Lowery]

I seem to remember that a conpany does clear plastic jointing clip so that the panels would not separate, If I remeber rightly it was SMP Metal Products, near Norwich (I think 😕 )

Dave

[Deleted User]

Basically i need to have the full colour image on the light box in 1 piece rather than cutting in so that there are no gaps for the light to show through.

the actual problem i have is with light showing through the gaps of the print which has been cut were the sheets join

[David Lowery]

FlexFace is your only answer to that one.

See if your box supplier can do a retrofit to the box so it will take a flexface 😕

Dave

[Deleted User]

Yes i was advised that flexface would be best but the only thing is i have already got the lightbox now.

is there any way ican use this lightbox? how is a retrofit fitted?

[David Lowery]

You’ll have to ask your supplier if it’s possible. 🙄

Dave

[Martin Pearson]

Who have you used as a supplier for the box and does this include the panels? If it does just tell them that you want the panels rebated as you should never rely on just two pieces of acrylic butted together at the edges. Lock the panels together with panel locks to prevent the moving apart.

[Deleted User]

quote martin:

Who have you used as a supplier for the box and does this include the panels? If it does just tell them that you want the panels rebated as you should never rely on just two pieces of acrylic butted together at the edges. Lock the panels together with panel locks to prevent the moving apart.

my supplier is a local plastic supplier company who also make their own boxes and supply.

the panels arent the problem the problem is the clear printed vinyl that goes onto the panels but needs to be cut where the panels join, this then causes about 1-2mm light to show through where it has been cut.

if only there was a supplier who could supply a 26ft x 2ft panel in 1 piece then i could stick on the digital printed vinyl in one go without having to cut but then i would have a problem getting the 26ft panel on site to go into the box.

im sure people on this forum must have had this problem and know a way around it.

[Glenn Sharp]

To be honest, I think you’ve already been given the answer.

Flexface is the only way I know of getting a seamless face….I know you have already bought the box but I can’t see a way round it unless as Dave has said your supplier could adapt it

[Robert Lambie]

i had this problem once… i.e. had lightbox and customer didnt want joins.
i used a company called "redline" (i forget the right name) they sell lengths of banner tensioning framing. i basically rivetted the framing to the face of lightbox, printed the sign on back-lit banner and fitted like flexi… worked very well but was very tight to fit without the use of a hammer. (i say that because the redline framing requires the beading to be hammered into place) this proves difficult due to the bounce/flex on a 6inch return lightbox. 😕
anyway, the job is still up and working spot on 2 years later… just thought ide mention it as an alternative.

[Deleted User]

I have been advised to have the signage printed onto backlit film and then just slide it into the lightbox infront of the opal acrylic.

does this sound good enough?

[Glenn Sharp]

I would say definitely not

the wind would get behind it and rip it right out…it wouldn’t last 5 minutes

[Deleted User]

Well what if the backlit film was sandwiched between a 3mm opal arylic (behind the backlit film) and a 2mm clear arylic infront of the backlit film?

[Glenn Sharp]

then you would be back to your original question….you would still have to have joins in the 2 mm 🙂

[Phill Fenton]

Martin has already described the answer to this, perhaps you haven’t understood his answer – the panels need to be re-bated (routed – so that the edges are "stepped" this way when they are butted together one panel overlaps the other.

[Deleted User]

the panels come rebated as standard, the problem is not with the panel its with the printed vinyl were the 2 panels join. i would have to stick on the print over the panels then cut down the print were the panels join and this will show light through. I need the print to be in 1 whole peice so that i do not have to cut into it.

[Glenn Sharp]

Ali

I don’t think you will come up with a simple solution on this one…as has been said…the only way to achieve what you want is to go FlexFace

I know you have already bought the box but Rob has given you a way round it

[Andy Gorman]

Unless you can get a piece of Perspex at 26 feet long then I reckon flex-face is the only way. Dunno if you can retro fit it to another lightbox though. Even if you applied the print in one piece after the panels were in place, you’d still see some evidence of the joins in the panels. That’s a very picky customer you’ve got!

[Deleted User]

I know rob gave me a way around the problem but thats abit too advanced for me. i know i wont get a 100% way around it by using panels but will using the back lit film way give me a better result than using printed vinyl and cutting down were the panels are?

i think if using the sandwich method using back lit will show less of the panels joining then i will go with that after all i did tell the customer that there will allways be something showing the joind in the panels

[Russell Spencer]

I think insight used to do a retro-fit framing system for flex faces, it replaces the standard beading on a light box..wait one….

yes here

http://www.insightsignsystems.com/spectraspeedflex.htm

bottom of page there is a ‘retrofit’ option

[Deleted User]

Thanks for that, at last i see some light at the end of the tunnel.

I will give them a ring and see if they can help me out.

[Phill Fenton]

Could you print the two halves separately allowing an extra 5mm or so overlap at either side of the join – then wrap this excess printed area into the rebate on each panel?