Foamex fitting question

[coolinshot]

I’ve fitted many foamex panels straight to fascias and walls and though it isn’t the best way to get a professional appearance sometimes it’s necessary (if the customer won’t pay for a frame for instance). Make sure the foamex is piloted – slightly larger than usual and don’t screw the fixings in too tight. If you counter sink the holes (5mm only) you can still tighten down until the screw head is flush but stop before it starts to bite into flesh. Never force the screw through un-piloted foamex as this will bow out in no time – believe me I have done it, as a novice, and to my cost.
Col

[Neil Kelly]

Had trouble with this one in the past try to avoide any signs that are bigger than two pieces not being fitted in a frame

also slack fixings is the right way to go with domed plastic caps as the washers hides the larger hole.

neil………

[Deleted User]

In my humble opinion, forget about using 3mm outside.
Whenever possible use framing and always use hanging strips bonded to the top edge.
Use panel hooks to keep the panels together if in a frame.
Rebate the centre vertical join and bond another strip along the rebate to stop bowing at the join, or bond alternate “tabs” to each edge to interlock.
I am just doing a charity shop (temp sign) which will be 4 pieces (10m in total) all lightly screwed to a fascia.
It has been explained to the customer that there may be some distortion due to expansion but you get what you pay for!

[Carrie Brown]

Thanks all 😀

Im now breathing a huge sigh of relief ……………… ~sigh~

We are piloting before fitting, to allow for expansion. Being a newbie I began to convince myself that we were fitting them all wrong & that the town was going to be full of bowed signs ……………… Nightmare!!!

We do offer customers frames etc, but if they dont want it or their budget wont allow it, we have to fit without & as best as possible.

Thanks again all, much appreciated 😀

[Fat Bob]

Hi Carrie

Talk to your plastic supplier and get some prices on polypropolyne or polyprop for short this is thinner 3mm and because the material is of a denser composition it is more suitable for screwing striaght to walls in the same manner as descriped in previous posts ask your stockists for some samples.

>>>FB

[Mike Grant]

Don’t forget that you should use the gloss finish pvc for outside work the matt stuff screwed directly to a wall will start cracking across the corners where the holes are as the stuff is not UV stable.

I personally allways try to educate the customer on the correct materials for the correct job, as in the long run you are putting YOUR name to the product and that could then lable you in the “cowboy” bracket in the long run.

DON’T CHEAPEN THE JOB FOR A FAST BUCK!!!!
YOU WILL ONLY CHEAPEN YOUR NAME! (!)

[Graham.Scanlan]

Hi Carrie

Talk to your plastic supplier and get some prices on polypropolyne or polyprop for short this is thinner 3mm and because the material is of a denser composition it is more suitable for screwing striaght to walls in the same manner as descriped in previous posts ask your stockists for some samples.

(please check this but i can see 2 problems with polyprop)

1, not really made to last outdoors (u.v, and will warp)

2, polyprop has a low density surface and vinyl wont really want to key to it,

[Fat Bob]

Hi Guys

I stand corrrected for the moment re polyprop we have been using a material out side for over 15 years and i have always assumed it to be poly prop and the surface is ideal for vinyl so I will find out exactly what this material is called and get back to you hope you got your post up before carrie bought any.

soon …FB

[Fat Bob]

Just been looking at the invoices and the product we have been using is cast pvc. which is Gloss both sides

Can we have your Views on this product please Graham.

[davidfx]

Have fitted direct to the wall before using Screws with head covers (for that neater look and pleanty of No nails or something simillar gunned onto the back of them. They have been up for years with no probems.