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FLood coating window inside a frame – personal advice please
Morning everybody
I have a job that involved flood coating a flat window within a deep frame, right up to the edge of the glass all round, to be seen from the other side.
I am trying to do this dry, but I cant seem to find anywhere to stick the masking tape onto to get it started with any accuracy. The placement needs to be very precise.
Without the frame it would be a doddle.
How would any of you guys handle this?
Simon -
17 Replies
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If your graphic is cut to size so it fits snugly inside the frame then unroll it & put it in place where it is to go. remove the backing paper for the first 6" or so & apply that to the window.
You should them be able to roll the graphic back up again & apply as you would normally.
Helps to have an extra pair of hands just to hold the graphic in place while you remove the first bit of backing paper. -
How about using some d/s tape onto the backing paper (Around 1/2 way down I’d suggest) to get it in position, then peel some down from the top, fold back into place and apply downwards as normal? (-)
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I would do it as Martin has suggested, depends how big the window is though.
Good idea from Paul also never thought of doing it that way
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here is two videos of me applying glass etch vinyl with logos cut out, fitted into window and door frames on my own and fitted dry with no bubble free adhesive.. hope this helps…
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How big is the window simon
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Martin – not enough accuracy in that one. It really needs to be lined up and held before any of it is stuck down.
Paul…your idea could have some legs… I will do a test.
Rob i have been denied access to that video. Funny I thought I was gold plus.Window is 1100 x 700.
If there was a blade you could get that would slit the silicone paper in the middle leaving the graphic untouched, so you could start in the middle without disturbing the edges – that would work for a lot of different situations including this one. I havent yet seen such a thing.
I am thinking this may be one of those situations where wet application is appropriate. 😕
Simon.
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quote Simon Worrall:Rob i have been denied access to that video. Funny I thought I was gold plus.
Hi Simon, yes you are… 😀 and will play… ive just checked. 😉
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quote Robert Lambie:quote Simon Worrall:Rob i have been denied access to that video. Funny I thought I was gold plus.
Hi Simon, yes you are… 😀 and will play… ive just checked. 😉
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Simon it would be lined up & if you have a second pair of hands holding it in place while you remove the first few inches of backing then if done properly will be completely accurate. In fact Pauls method is pretty much the same but just uses a bit of double sided tape rather than an extra pair of hands.
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quote Simon Worrall:quote Robert Lambie:quote Simon Worrall:Rob i have been denied access to that video. Funny I thought I was gold plus.
Hi Simon, yes you are… 😀 and will play… ive just checked. 😉
:lol1: :lol1: :lol1:
just checked again, you were in Gold Lifetime not Gold plus!
now you should have access… 😳 -
Thanks Rob 🙂
Martin if you imagine you are trying to put down a sticky corner/edge, (and very static as soon as you have removed the backing) and the first thing it does is attract to the glass.
So you unstick it and try to place it down again, but now youve creased it and it wont go where you think it is going to go.
And youve stretched it slightly because it has been pulled.
And you may or may not have a fingermark on it by now (Seen from the outside, remember).Well thats how I would end up.
Not saying it cant be done, just that it is probably beyond my ability.
Simon
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Hi Simon
there is such a knife http://www.signgeer.com/product/vinylguard-knife-103
we use it all the time to do exactly what you are doing.
Just align the graphic on the window tape it in place we sometimes use gaffa tape to tape to the window frame if there is no glass left to tape to just one line of tape right down the centre.
Fold back half the graphic cut the backing with the vinyl guard knife lay that half and then repeat for other half a window that size you can easily do on your own
have fun. -
Cheers Colin. That looks like exactly what I was looking for!
Rob I caught up with the video. You make it look very easy.
You were using app tape of course.
When you were lining up the edges at the beginning,
you touched the glue side with both your thumb and finger at some point.
This is what I am afraid of, reverse printed graphics backed up with white would show the fingerprints very clearly
Did that not leave any marks on the oracal?Simon.
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is there a reason you cannot flood coat wet? not sure if I mis-read the post.
Cut to size, spray and drop in -
Not really any reason, Chris.
I am trying to keep up, and current thinking seems to be to do everything dry.
But as I said earlier in the thread, there are some jobs that are wet-appropriate (so to speak) and this is probably one of them.
Simon. -
Simon, I try to apply graphics dry as much as possible, it is generally much easier & quicker once you get the hang of it BUT I also know I am never going to be as good at it as some people so some jobs are done wet.
As with most things its about confidence so if I don’t feel I could confidently apply a job dry then it gets done wet :lol1: :lol1: -
all my vinyls on boards and vans go on dry but with window graphics just do wet its easier I find
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