Fixing help to tiles please

[Kevin Flowers]

Warren
can you put upright timbers from top of existing sign (think its a sign picture is cropped tight) to fascia.

Kev

[Robert Lambie]

i would suggest creating an actual pan. maybe the top and bottom returns 1 inch. but make the two end returns, lets say 6 inches.
you now have your pan formed as normal but irregular returns.
on the rear ide probably use some L-Shape aluminium and using VHB tape, just tape some on the rear in key spots and the sign will become rigid.

personally, if this was the route "i had" to take, ide do it in 2mm aluminium, folded into a pan as above.
ide then use open thread /aluminium tech screws with rubber washers to tap into the aluminium window frame. (thats assuming the frame is nice and strong too…

[Warren Beard]

quote Kevin Flowers:

Warren
can you put upright timbers from top of existing sign (think its a sign picture is cropped tight) to fascia.

Kev

Hi Kev

Can’t attach anything to the bottom as it’s the aluminium frame with a flex face front which they need access to, the roof could be an option as there must be some batons behind the thin plywood panels.

[Warren Beard]

quote Robert Lambie:

i would suggest creating an actual pan. maybe the top and bottom returns 1 inch. but make the two end returns, lets say 6 inches.
you now have your pan formed as normal but irregular returns.
on the rear ide probably use some L-Shape aluminium and using VHB tape, just tape some on the rear in key spots and the sign will become rigid.

personally, if this was the route “i had” to take, ide do it in 2mm aluminium, folded into a pan as above.
ide then use open thread /aluminium tech screws with rubber washers to tap into the aluminium window frame. (thats assuming the frame is nice and strong too…

Hi Rob

Sort of along the lines I was thinking and good idea to put the angles inside the tray to stiffen it up. My main concern is the strength of the window frame as I don’t think it’s aluminium on the sides and just those coated foam like trims, more to finish it off nicely then to hold it up.

I got a feeling this is going to be more hassle then it’s worth and knowing my luck he’ll change his mind after seeing the price or won’t like the solutions?

👿

thanks guys

[Stuart Miller]

Would it be possible to remove a couple of tiles and fix a bracket to the wall behind then, cut a section out of the tile and replace with flashing covering the bracket.
Similar to putting a bracket onto a tiled roof for solar panels. May need a roofer to help.

[Tim Painter]

More hastle than it’s worth I think.
Especially with the you can’t do this or that.
Also what if you create a leak.

I would go for something like Rob says – but like you Warren I feel the window trims are likely not to be fitted to anything very sturdy.

[Gwaredd Steele]

Hi Warren.

I’ve fitted signs to these tiles a few times now. Last one was an 85" x 40" panatrim frame with a Dibond insert.

I was initially worried too & went with the intention of finding the internal wooden batons & fixing to them, but after drilling (or trying!) through the first tile for an exploratory hole, I quickly realised these tiles are very tough indeed!

I think I drilled about 7 holes in all (4 top, 1 on the L/H side & 2 bottom) & went through 4 batteries & 3 drill bits in all!

I also used hammer fixings instead of red plugs & screws, as I wanted them to expand in the cavity rather than the tile to reduce the chance of the tile cracking.

Best of luck!

G

[Peter Dee]

Here’s one we did in a similar situation.
Four 40 x 40 steel L sections coach screwed to the roof joists.
We fitted two 40 x 40 ally horizontals to support the dibond tray.
It was absolutely rigid and never moved even in high winds.

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[Warren Beard]

awesome help, many thanks, that gives me something to work on.

cheers

Warren

[Hugh Potter]

Hi Warren,

did a similar job about 6 months ago, large tray onto tiled surface, assumed breeze block / stud work underneath ad it was imposible to get under any tiles to look, test drills didn’t help either!

I ended up using 120mm thunderbolts, simply fitted as per usual. broke only one tile going through on regular drill mode, needed sds a few times when it hit hard stuff, a bit wavy due to the uneven nature of tiles but from the floor it looks fine.

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[Warren Beard]

quote Peter Dee:

Here’s one we did in a similar situation.
Four 40 x 40 steel L sections coach screwed to the roof joists.
We fitted two 40 x 40 ally horizontals to support the dibond tray.
It was absolutely rigid and never moved even in high winds.

Hi Peter

I think this method will be best to avoid damaging the tiles, how did you attach the vertical angles to the horizontal angles behind the tray? Did you attach them to the top and bottom horizontal angles or just the top one?

Does it sit (have a gap of) 40mm from the tiles and the 2 flat sections are joined?

Thanks for the help everybody

cheers

Warren

[Peter Dee]

Hi Warren, we made up 4 vertical bars L section 40 x 40 steel ( I think about 4mm thick).
The tops were angled so that they could go right up under the roof tiles.
They were coach screwed to the joists (2 in each). Only a small pilot hole was needed in the wood then the screws done up with a socket set.
Bits of packing were needed here and there to correct any sideways tilt as the joists weren’t sitting dead square.
The lengths were enough to go to the bottom of the sign plus leave a gap between roof and sign.
The rest is just as though fitting a normal tray.
Fit the 40 x 40 ally rails horizontally (we used small bolts), fixing to each vertical bar.
Then lift on the tray, mark through 4 fixing points, remove tray and pre drill the ally channel. (You could just pre drill whilst holding the tray in place.
The whole thing was about 150mm away from the wall tiles.
The back of the tray butts up against the face of the steel uprights at the top.

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